NickLam
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Prasantrin,
He has a retail area and a smaller sit in area behind. I tried taking away some cakes for friends, but the staff did not allow me to purchase his more delicate mousse cakes and insisted those were for eat in ONLY. Bummer.
Lucil,
This is a Hidemi Sugino thread, Hideki Kawamura's cakes will come soon. And I have tasted Hidemi's, Laduree's and Henri Charpentiers. They are all French based so I have no idea what your argument is about.
I will keep out of this argument, but please do not turn this tread into a flaming one.
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Hi all,
Thought this might be of interest to those who have heard so much about Hidemi Sugino's cakes but have not had the chance to visit him and taste his creations yet.
Hope it quenches the curiosities of some here.
Cheers!
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Here you guys go, a list of the recipes in the book. Its an awesome book and though the recipes are different from his other books, they all still work the same as long as you get the Macaronage right.
Different flavours seperated by a comma, and flavour combinations either in brackets or with a + sign between flavours. Hope this provides enough temptation for you all to buy it! Have tried 3 recipes and they all taste good, better than anything you can buy here in London anyway (And Singapore too), provided the ingredients used are great!
Classics:
bitter chocolate, rose, praline, blackcurrant (Cassis), caramel, pistachio, coffee, raspberry, lemon, glazed chestnuts
Fetishes:
Carrement (extra bitter chocolate, nibs and salt), Celeste (Strawberry, passionfruit and rhubarb), Eden (Peach, Apricot and Saffron), Ispahan (Rose, Lychee and Raspberry), Infiniment Vanille (Mexican, madagascan and tahitian vanilla), Mogador (Passionfruit, milk choc), Montebello (Pistachio, Raspberry), Sarah (Chestnut, matcha), Plenitude (Choc and caramel), Mosic (Pistachio, griottines, ceylan cinnamon), Satine (Passionfruit, orange and cream cheese).
Signatures:
Olive oil + vanilla, grapefruit+orange+campari, violet+blackcurrant, arabella (Milk choc+ginger+passionfruit+banana+hazelnuts), mint, arabesque (Apricot +pistachio), lime + basil, earl grey+milk choc, yuzu+choc, avocat+banana, milk chocolate+caramel+rice krispies, mint+raspberry, chuao choc+blackberry), vanilla+strawberry, coffee+orange confit, lemon+hazelnut praline+feuilletine), rosehip+chestnut, salted caramel+apples, mlk chocolate + coconut, raspberry+pink peppercorns+parmesan, milk chocolate+hazelnuts
Special recipes for clients:
jasmine, avocat+lemon, carrot+orange, ketchup, raspberry+esplette pepper, madnarin orange+baies rose, orange flower water+ginger+rose, tea from Maison des Trois Thes
Exceptions:
25 yr Balsamico, white truffle+piedmont hazelnuts, foie gras+choc, Osetra caviar+l'eau de noix (Walnut eau de vie?), rosehip+figs+foie gras, black truffle, wasabi+grapefruit
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Hi everyone,
Temporary unemployment has its benefits (Slowly turning into panic) of having the time to write a blog. "Shameless self promotion alert!"
It documents my travels across Europe and beyond working in chocolates and pastry in the hope of returning to Asia after this global downturn is over to start my own. It will be mainly about travel and food and am really enjoying doing it as it serves also as a record for the memories of this amazing journey.
Having just recently returned from Japan's Salon du Chocolat, Japan will be the focal point of posts in the coming weeks. After that, it will be a flashback to last year where experiences working in Spain will be recapped.
Hope it will be an interesting addition to the food blogosphere. Visit my blog, Eat That Yellow Snow here
Thanks and hope everyone enjoys it!
Cheers!
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Some further tips for anyone visiting Tokyo.
Figure out how many days you want to stay in Tokyo and to get more bang for the buck, get the Metro pass for every day of your stay. Check it out. Tourist Pass Metro Only
Beware that you can only use the Metro line, but that will basically cover every area. If you have to hop over on the JR or any other lines to save time, just pay for it. I take a train at least 8 to 10 times a day whilst in Tokyo to cover as much ground as possible within as short a time as possible. Walking briskly in between stations for transfers will burn off what you ate to ready you for the next one.
When you get into Tokyo, your first destination should be either Kinokuniya at Takashimaya Times Square in Shinjuku (South Exit, huge station, make sure you get out at the correct exit) or Book 1st in Shibuya or Shinjuku.
I found this book on patisseries and chocolates in tokyo at Book 1st in Shibuya.
Browse the cooking section and look for the food magazines area. You will find magazines detailing shops in Tokyo with pictures and more importantly, maps.
The book in the amazon link above has maps.
If you get lost, just ask for the nearest police station, show them the map and off you go. Alternatively, download the maps beforehand into your mobile from google or if you have GPS, all the better!
Alright, have fun and enjoy!
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Hi all,
I just returned from Tokyo having attended Salon du Chocolat there and thought for future reference for others visiting Tokyo, here are some cool sites I found.
Tokyo ChocolateT - Website listing chocolate shops with maps, not all are on here though
Tokyo Cake - Same as above...but for cakes
Allsweets Tokyo Area - Japanese only site, so just open the links in new tabs to view and choose.
A few places that I visited this time around were:
(1) Le Chocolat de H
(2) Mont St Clair
(3) Tadashi Yanagi
(4) A tes souhaits
(5) Toshi Yoroizuka
(6) Sadaharu Aoki
(7) Henri Le Roux (Isetan Shinjuku)
(8) Waraku Beniya
(9) Hidemi Sugino - Went there 3 times! (No website, search hidemi sugino in google maps Japan)
Gave this guy a miss coz of time, but will visit him next time round
(10) TakagiPatissier Takagi
In the name of shameless self promotion, you can read about some of my Japan experiences here atEat that Yellow Snow
The last time I was there in 2006, I went to
(1) Antenor (In Kobe though, but they are in department stores, nothing special)
(3) Qu'il Fait Bon - Specialised in Tarts
(4) Oriol Balaguer - Search his name on g-maps japan, the station is SHIROKANEDAI on the Namboku line
(5) Pierre Marcolini
(6) Babbi - Hip designs, crap chocolates
(7) Pierre Herme
(8) Jean Paul Hevin - Isetan Shinjuku, Midtown Roppongi, etc...
(9) Theobroma Musee du Chocolat
(11) Meiji 100% Cafe - Cool designs, crap chocolates
(12) Richart - In Ginza
(13) Del Rey - Omotesando Hills, Hevin + R-Style + Toraya Cafe are there, LMDC across the road
(14) R style - Nice wagashi desserts, really great!
(15) Kyotofu - Tofu dessert cafe
And a few others I cannot remember.
There are lots to eat and see over in Tokyo, and time + stomach space + $ are the main problems!
Hope anyone going over there has a hell of a time!
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Just saw the video and just for any non-mandarin speaking friends here who might be interested, a fellow chinese guy asked the chef what temperature his marble slab was at, and the chef said he keeps it at 22 to 25 degrees celsius.
Furthermore, he added that in colder months, he warms it up and in warmer months, he uses the air-conditioning to cool things down. His chocolate goes on at around 32 to 33 degrees celsius.
Hope that info was helpful to anyone curious about that.
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Hi everyone, its my first post in this section of the forum.
Was hoping to get some advice and information for living in Alicante cheaply.
I'm planning to stage at Pasterleria Totel for 3 to 6 months in pastry and though they will provide lodging, other expenses will be mine to bear.
They suggested having 500 Euros a month as a minimum and though its fine with me, I would like to get some first hand advice from people who have experienced living in Alicante or its thereabouts.
I'm interested in:
(1) Normal cafe/bistro/restaurant prices for a quick meal
(2) Prices of raw produce from the market
(3) Cost of getting around
(4) Weekend travel into Barcelona to check out shops like Enric Rovira, Oriol Balaguer, etc...
Hoping to live as cheaply as possible as the exchange rate from EU to Singapore dollar is double.
Thank you so much for any help given, its greatly appreciated!
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Hi,
Gfron, you might be having a case of Leuconostoc bacteria in your flour. What happens is this bacteria lives in many flours and as it grows in your not-yet acidified starter, it produces carbon dioxide. Therefore, you might think that you have good yeast activity when it is not the case.
I did a web search on Leuconostoc for some scientific background and found the next best thing, Peter Reinhart's blog! http://peterreinhart.typepad.com/peter_rei...ough_start.html
Just ignore the initial burst of activity as it will die down when your dough is more acidic. Thats when the real yeasts take over.
Hope this helps!
Cheers!
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Just a shot on street food, which featured largely in my diet in Thailand for a year!
First off, street food there is pretty safe, but try to avoid the bbq squid from the streets. Ate it twice and went down with food poisoning. Not saying all of them are like that, but its better to err on the safe side.
Famous street food at night can be found at Soi 38 Sukhumvit.
Right at the entrance, you will see a whole row of street vendors. On your right will be a small brightly lit 'alley' with seating.
First shop on that 'alley' serves up really good stuff, order their specialty just by pointing at the newspaper cutting they have there!
Or, try the bhen mee kiow, haang from the stall next to it. Thats just noodles with wantons. Haang means 'dry', so you will get a tasty seasoning on it of oil, soy sauce, pepper, fish sauce, etc...
Along the road, find a stall with a tiny bathtub as a shop decoration out front. This is not for the faint of heart, as you can have a taste of noodles made with the private parts of the cow.
Good Casual Style Chinese Restaurant with GREAT Seafood
Have eaten in many supposedly 'top' places in Bkk, but nothing compares to this one in both taste and bang for the buck. The restaurant's name is called Sohrn-Thorn, and finding it is easy. Sohrn can rhyme with "Fawn" or "Dawn" with a throaty emphasis on the 'hrn' part.
Cabbies should know the place, just say Rama 4 and Sukhumvit Soi 24. Sorn Thorn.
If a blank stare follows, just follow these directions.
Take a cab to Sukhumvit Soi 24 and tell the cab to take you to the end of the road.
The end of the road is a T-Junction of Sukhumvit Soi 24 and Rama 4 (Pharam Sii) Road.
You will see a huge gas station on your left and a BMW showroom on your right.
Once off the taxi, cut across the gas station and walk towards the Golden Arches (YES, McDonalds). It is safe to walk, so don't worry. Many expatriates walk there for dinner.
On Rama 4 road, standing at McDonalds and looking down the street, you will see the doors of 4 to 5 shophouses (It will be slightly dark as they will be closed at night).
From here, you will be able to see bright lights and probably parked cars parked outside this chinese restaurant.
This shop has fish tanks filled with seafood out front and it will be the first restaurant you find after McDonalds. You can't miss it.
They have an english menu and staff speak english. Menu's have prices, so its not a rip-off joint. This is the best seafood joint I've been to....and cheap too!
Specialties:
(1) Fresh BBQ Mantis Shrimp (You will see them swimming in the tanks...wierd rectangular prawns)
(2) Raw marinated crab (Very spicy!)
(3) Deep fried pork neck in sauce
(4) Fresh raw marinated shrimps (Eat it with the garlic!)
(5) Fish Maw Soup
(6) Deep fried fish
(7) Bbq fresh giant prawns.
Ok.....so raw crab and prawns may be a bit adventurous. However, their business is so good that their live seafood gets turned over everyday. Its all fresh from the tank. Can't really go wrong with the seafood here. And, the green chilli sauce is simply amazing.
If there is any place worth seeking out, its this one.
Amazing Thai Style Pork Satay
Its called Moo Peing and this is on Silom road, just opposite Patpong on Soi Convent. You cannot miss this guy, he is on the entrance of Soi Convent right outside the 7-11. The best satay EVER....and that is no mean feat as it beats any satay I've had in Singapore or Malaysia.
He is only open at night, and its the luck of the draw as he may sell out fast. So, if you find yourself in Patpong at night, do not miss this guy.
While you are at Soi Convent, look for street vendors nearby and look for sausages...tiny sausage droplets. These are sausages from the Issan province, or "Sai Grog Issan".
They are fermented sausages and sourish in nature, quite similar to Nam in Vietnam. However.....they are tons MORE flavourful, with a porky kick. It is an acquired taste....but so typical of Thai street food.
There are other places of note in Bkk, mostly simple restaurants and street food and most likely holes in the walls that a tourist will not be able to find or menu items so obscure you won't be able to order it correctly.
Fine dining is good for entertaining business clients or impressing in-laws. But personally, Thai street food reigns supreme as since you are already in Thai, you might as well eat Thai food! Not touristy versions or costly upmarket ones found in fine dining establishments, but those that everyday people eat.
Hope you will try some street food in Thailand and come to love it as I have! Have a great trip.
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Peony, I think it has something to do with what they eat. Here in Singapore, they have 'carrot' and 'corn' fed chickens and their eggs come out orange or yellow!
As for Japanese hardboiled, I recall in the El Bulli book, Ferran Adria was at a Japanese restaurant in NY or Japan (Cannot remember where) and he had this same egg with the liquid centre.
The generous chef shared the recipe with him and the El Bulli book calls it the 7/70 Egg or something to that effect. Basically, 7 minutes in 70 degrees celsius water.
Of course you will need an induction cooker like the CookTek to maintain that temperature accurately for 7 minutes......
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e Finally had time to do up photos on a Panettone made a month ago. It has been sitting, well wrapped in my fridge to till this morning.
The recipe I used was from Paco Torreblanca's book and followed it to the dot. Well, not really. The quantities were slashed drastically and the most confusing part was figuring out whether 'Mother Yeast' meant sourdough or cake yeast.
Also, Italian 00 flour is not available here and bread flour at 11% protein was used instead. It did require a bit of adjustment and I winged it but on hindsight, should have not added any extra to see what would've happened.
Verdict: Amazing. Nice airy and soft texture.
In another post in the Spain section, someone did mention Paco Torreblanca's amazing Chocolate Panettones. I have no doubt that his would be super amazing considering the great results I've had.
Have never had a real Panettone before and the closest was a really bad, fake version purchased from the "Central" supermarket bakery in Bangkok. So....can't wait to one day visit Alicante and have the real thing!
Meanwhile, if anyone wants more info on the Panettone, just read the writeup on my blog. PM me for recipes.
Cheers!
Nick.
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Hey enthusiasts...the Desserts and Pastry volume of Alain Ducasse's beautiful "Grand Livre de Cuisine" is on sale on Amazon for only $58.50...
this is a book that is normally $195!!!
edited to fix link
Thanks for the heads up Alanamoana. Been wanting to buy that for a long time, making many trips to the library to read it. The price now is just too good to miss buying it! Thanks!
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Hi Hiroyuki,
I offer my best wishes for your wife's speedy recovery from her illness.
Just reading your blogs and seeing the pictures is a really educational experience....just like reading your EG posts! And......am I the only one here that thinks maybe you have Japan's next Jamie Oliver in your home?
Hearing about you talk about Bento being an expression of love really touched a nerve. It reminded me somehow of Japanese always remembering the taste of their mom's miso soup and how every household has their own special blend.
Not sure how common this is nowadays, but it makes me think back of family and how even though our cultures may be different, its all the same everywhere. Food is always an expression of love.
It is a pleasure reading your posts and I wish you and your family all the best...and I look forward to reading more!
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Hi Shoebox Oven,
Seeing that the pastries are from Canele, I assume that you are from Singapore. You can find cake frames of several sizes and depths at Phoon Huat stores dotted around the island. http://www.phoonhuat.com/
If you are looking for mousse rings and different types of shapes as seen in JBPrince or PastryChef.com, you might want to head down to Chinatown to Sia Huat and the other store a few doors down. http://www.siahuat.com/
You will be able to find a mousse ring that is similar in shape and size to that custard thingy you posted. They cost me like 2.60 each at 250 pieces, so for maybe 4 or 5, you will be looking at $3 to $4 each? They are awesome as there are no seams.
For the spheres, they are drops of cooked glucose.
Hope this helps.
By the way, most of the recipes can be found in Pierre Herme's pro books. One outfit in Singapore copies Pierre Herme's PH10 recipes exactly. Well, not really, coz they look the same and even bear the same names like Ispahan and Arabella, but flavour wise, it is so inferior that I am even ashamed that they are from Singapore.
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adding water or juice seems counterintuitive...when frozen and re-spun/pacotized, it will end up just as icy, no? it would seem better to adjust your formula to include more sugar or glucose or something which will not freeze and will give better texture.
sethro, you can use any normal frozen yogurt recipe and pacotize. do you hold the air valve in when spinning?
ours was something like:
8# yogurt
2.2# sugar
+ flavoring and juice
splash of corn syrup
Adjusting the recipe is a solution too, so it depends I guess on the sweetness levels. The deeper science evades me. I used to do that on the chocolate sorbets and fruit sorbets with zero sugar, even the bottled juices added was sugarless (Thailand has great fruits and juices!). Even at 60% sweetness....glucose still is added sugar, so we can't advertise that.
So...that was a problem, the icy powder. Once the extra juice was added and pacotized, we could hold it at -13 degrees celsius in a holding freezer with no recrystallization......until the crapola local freezer started giving problems halfway thru service.
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Anyone have experience with this?
I recall several yoghurt recipes in the book that came with the Pacojet, maybe you can surf Pacojet's website? They might have them in the recipes section.
Did quite a bit of their recipes from the book and they all work really well but never did the yoghurt ones. But from past experience, they should work well as is or adapted.
For every new recipe, it would be a good idea to pacotize 1 portion first to see if its smooth enough. If you get ice powder instead (Not all mixtures work well frozen to -20 degrees celsuis, so just lower the freezing temp. next time if possible.), just add one or two tablespoons of water or juice into the beaker before pacotizing again. That will smoothen everything out.
This is advice given by the owner when we ran into 'icy' problems. Hope this helps.
Cheers!
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There is a frog farm near my home and they sell lots of other live fish and stuff too. They have an 'open kitchen' concept for customers to watch their chosen prey get dispatched in a flurry of blood and deft knifework (They fillet fish very very cleanly using huge cleavers).
Anyway, here's how they kill, gut and skin a frog.
Hold the frog down, belly facing the chopping board. Lop off the head with a cleaver. I would recommend the 'place cleaver edge on neck and hammer the blade down with your other hand' technique. You don't wanna take your fingers off.
Grab the body and make the headless froggie sit up just like you would Barbie on her playhouse chair. Lop off the webbed feet on the hind legs.
Take two needle nosed pliers. At the neck cavity, use one plier to grab hold of the bony/fleshy area. Use the other plier and grab hold of a flap of skin around the neck cavity. Its not unlike taking off a glove from someone else's hand.
Make a slit down the tummy of the frog. Grab the frog with your two thumbs in the tummy cavity. Turn the frog inside out with your other fingers and all the entrails will spill out. Don't blame me if you poison yourself...but ahaha maybe the liver might be of culinary interest?
Don't ask me which is the liver! Wash with a lot of water. I have no idea how you might fillet it for sashimi...don't think san-mai oroshi would apply here
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Hmmm, from what I recall, he did not feature Tian Tian chicken rice at Maxwell on his show, but covered it in a magazine article. He instead ate Chicken Rice in Malaysia.
Of course, debating on which food is the best and who does the best this or that is pointless, and yes, there are lines at Tian Tian but hardly a household name. Of course...that point can also be debated! Of course, a household name would be Boon Tong Kee Hainanese Chicken Rice at Balestier Road.
By the way, Tian Tian got full marks in Seetoh's Makansutra Singapore food guide, a very useful guide, but being Singaporean......of course we do not agree with what is said half the time!
What I'm trying to get at is, where is the Fried Hokkien Mee, or Nasi Lemak or Curried Fish Head, Char Kway Teow or Carrot cake...many many dishes that are often imitated overseas but hardly recreated. I won't speak for other Singaporeans but these are the dishes that define Singapore for me. Chinese, Malay and Indian dishes that define us as a country, as our unified culture.
Why did Anthony's editor bring him to Tekka market to eat Prata at Thasevi's? Ask any Singaporean where to get prata and they will say Jalan Kayu. That place is SYNONYMOUS with prata! Singaporeans will drive from one end of the island to the other to have a late night prata there, even though we have late night prata stores all over the island.
These also happen to be the dishes that Singaporeans miss the most when they go live overseas. While they were spending inordinate amounts of money eating seafood at Sin Huat eating house in Geylang, they overlooked the Frog Porridge and Beef Hor Fun there.
It may not be the best there is (Fame has its effect on quality!), but I bet a majority of Singaporeans will know it other than Sin Huat.
Sorry for the long message, but I think Anthony Bourdain summed it up best when he wrote that he was amazed when his audience of Singaporean foodies started arguing with one another at the World Gourmet Summit about where to get the best chicken rice.
Food and arguing about food. The simple pleasures of Singapore!
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For those of you interested in Singapore and its food......
Anthony Bourdain was spotted filming at a Malay food stall at Bussorah Street at Beach Road in Singapore. Can't wait to see what else he is covering this time round. The 1.5 episodes on Singapore on A Cook's Tour did not really cover the quintessential Singaporean food.
The majority of Singaporeans would not even count those places he went as 'regular' places.
Lets hope he gets more 'local' this time round.
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Do as Kerry suggested and save loads of money. I got caramel rulers cut out of 'hairline' stainless steel, really shiny, well polished steel bars that are the perfect size and weight. Can't live without those things.
Also, you could get a machine shop to weld up 4 bars for you to make a ganache frame, but make sure they have a sander large enough to be able to sand the whole assembly nice and flat, or you'll get wobbly frames that require shrinkwrapping on one side when spreading ganache. Guess how I know?
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The only gripe I had about this episode was that Chef Cantu described more about the gadgets and the way the dishes were made rather than the food. It occured to me that ICA might have edited the description of the dishes for its tech impact for audiences. However, more than one of the judges did mention about the lack of beet flavour in certain dishes. That wasn't the case in Morimoto's dishes, where he married tradition and modern-movements and as per the judge's own comments, achieved great beet flavour!
Putting MG and gadgets aside, the judge's comment told me one thing. They failed to capture, as the team at El Bulli would put it, the DNA, of the ingredient. Of course one episode of ICA with a incredibly short time limit cannot be used to judge an approach.
Those that have dined at Moto's have had great experiences, of which its gotta definitely be good. So my doubt is not in their cooking ability or their pursuit of taste and flavour coz to be good, its gotta have both!
However, it would be great if Chef Cantu could describe how he would've done a Beets themed dinner at home for close family and friends away from the gadgets, the laptops and everything. Imagine walking into grandma's kitchen, she's got a thing for beets and wants a full course beet meal....NOW!
Every battle I watch on ICJ (This was the first ICA for me), you can more or less see the love affair the chefs have with their food. Outside of the Iron Chef, one example would be Ferran Adria being amazed at Rafa's Restaurant, taking inspiration from the pure, simple flavours and interpreting them in El Bulli's style.
Would love for Chef Cantu to draw a personal parrallel with the Ferran Adria/Rafa story.
Thanks.
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Not sure bout the price thing, but there has been a new pacojet designed submitted to the CE certification authorities to test for meeting all standards regarding 'Water Resistance'. It'll take 4 to 6 months from August '06 and from then, if there are any problems, they'll have to rework it or retool their production systems.
Basically, the pacojet is the same but they have redesigned some internal organs to allow the Pacojet to be hosed down and not have water leak into electrical components. Example, the air intake at the rear has been redesigned so that any water going into that entrance will be re-routed via a duct to be expelled, bypassing all important electrical components. There are several other additions too, including seals here and there inside the machine.
This extremely costly and time-consuming affair was done not only for the convenience of food service operations, but to get a better CE certification so that it can be declared and exported to certain countries under a customs code that can get a lower tax rate. I know....coz the tax in Thailand was 30% :-( With the new certification, it would drop to 3 to 5%,
Not too sure bout the Frix-Air coz never used it, but having met the owner when he came down to Thailand, all I can say is that Pacojet has an amazing business philosophy. He took time off from sourcing for and meeting potential distributors there to spend one afternoon teaching us all the tips and tricks of the Pacojet.
Oh, and the machine doesn't perform half that bad either ;-) Pure mango sorbet anyone?
Hidemi Sugino's Cakes
in Pastry & Baking
Posted
Haha Prasantrin,
Never thought about the container thing! Its quite a small seating area though so it might be noticeable!
However, on mondays, tues, wed, etc.....getting there at opening should be ok, I did not really have to wait. THe risk of getting there a bit later is that they will sell out of everything, which happened to me the first time I was there in 2006.
If you cannot make it in the morning, they open for tea time at 2pm or 3pm, I cannot remember. Thats when they replenish the displays.
Here's a map for your advanced planning
Its not that hard to find once you are at Ginza station standing right outside Mitsukoshi. Walk towards Matsuya department store and you are on the correct side and direction.
Walk further up past Yurakucho station's exit and continue walking. You will come across Cozy Corner cake shop just before the bridge overhead. Continue walking under the bridge and take the first right turn and Hidemi's shop is a few paces from there.
Happy planning!