David Ross

The success of our Cook-Off's is due in large part to the fact that we don't lay down defined boundaries . While we specify the dish or ingredient that is the main theme of a Cook-Off, we like to encourage discussion of different tastes and opinions, which inevitably opens the door to discussion on traditional versions of a dish yet inspiring individual creativity.

looks quite delicious.

Well, I'll have to get through the next Cioppino class first. This one sold out and I have a waiting list for a second Cioppino class. And when your students stay an hour and a half after class asking about cioppino, chile rellenos, fish n'chips and spices, you just might be a popular teacher! But tomorrow I'm working on my first ramen dish which will feature salmon.

Paul that's an amazing ramen feast! I'm taking a side road today, teaching a class on Cioppino. Tommorrow I'm diving into my first ramen dish. I think it may turn out to be a sort of ramen-hybrid.

I found two thick, cross-cut beef shanks in the freezer this afternoon. Not exactly offal, and it's a cut of meat I've never used. I was planning to put it in a French-style braise when I purchased it, now I think some sort of slow cooking process to tenderize it and then into the ramen soup.

I've been looking through online recipes for ramen and so far it seems as most of the time the protein is either sliced pork or beef. I was thinking that beef tongue might be a delicious meat to add to ramen. Do people use offal very often? I would think a dish with a humble background would use lesser expensive proteins like kidneys, liver, sweetbreads and such.

Thanks. I'll get back to the Asian store and hopefully find the right noodles.

I need some help with determining what the appropriate noodle is for ramen. Some of you have mentioned fresh ramen noodles. Are those really the only, or best, noodles to use? What about dried noodles specifically made for ramen? Do all ramen noodles have that characteristic squiggly shape? I bought two types of dried noodles at the Asian store and I think they would be delicious in a bowl of ramen, but I'm not sure they are "authentic?" These are "Inaka Soba Itsuki" noodles made with both wheat and buckwheat flour. I've read that soba noodles are always made with buckwheat flour and should be eaten cold with a dipping sauce. Would these noodles work in ramen, albeit not totally true to the classic dish? These are "Inaka Udon Itsuki" noodles made with only wheat flour. I know udon is a hot soup with a thick noodle, so I assume these would not fit within the definition of true ramen? I tend to like the thickness and texture of udon noodles.

For research purposes, and to give me a low bar to compare the commercial ramen to what I hope will be my own delicious creation, I started with a cup of Japanese Ramen "Shio Taste" made by Hikare Miso of Nagano Japan. It cost the pricey sum of $3.29, decidedly higher than the instant ramen noodles sans the bowl. Along with numerous additives too many to list, the list of ingredients included dried wheat noodles, sesame seeds, fried garlic, red pickled ginger, green onion, corn, and seasoning oil. The directions were mis-leading. 1). Open the lid to the black line. There was no lid, just a flimsy film covering and there was no black line inside the Styrofoam bowl- 2). Remove "all" two packets, sprinkle powdered soup garnish over noodles. I couldn't read the labels on the packets, but I figured the larger packet contained the vegetables- 3). Fill cup with boiling water to inside line and close lid for three minutes. Well there were 3 lines inside the bowl so I filled with water up to line one. I didn't have a lid to close the bowl, and the flimsy film covering wouldn't work too well, so I put the bowl in the microwave for 3 minutes. I didn't taste the sesame seeds, fried garlic or red pickled ginger, and it appeared that there was a few shards of spinach or cabbage. The seasoning oil, broth and noodles tasted like--nothing. Now this could have been a tasty bowl had I added some soy sauce, red peppercorn chile oil and a spoon of Korean chile paste. I'm pretty sure I can do better.

I've always thought the addition of a little corn is sort of out of character, but I suppose it supplies some sweetness and texture. It just sometimes looks like it's a way of rubbing in another vegetable.

The Italian Ramen looks delicious and the recipe is intriguing. I'm curious about the combination of salty parmesan against the sea flavors of Kombu. It seems they would compete against each other?

That looks delicious. Tell me about the broth. I'd like a hot bowl of that for lunch today!

How many noodles does it take to make soup? Instant Ramen Noodles that is. As we’re about to find out, Ramen is much more than a “Cup O’Noodles.” Today, we launch a new adventure in our revered eG Cook-Off Series with eG Cook-Off #72: Ramen. The history of Ramen is somewhat sketchy, but it appears as though it was a creation of the Chinese—a bowl of fresh wheat noodles in a hot broth garnished with a few pieces of leftover meat and a sprinkling of chopped vegetables. The dish crossed the sea and Ramen stalls began to show up in Japan by 1900, often serving as a cheap, quick lunch for the working class. Ramen grew in popularity in Japan and eventually made its way to the United States, joining other quick and convenient culinary inventions gaining popularity in America like frozen TV dinners, frozen pizza, Chef Boyardee canned spaghetti and ravioli and Lipton’s dried noodle soup mixes. Today, America sates its appetite for instant ramen noodles to the tune of nearly 5 billion of the disposable cups every year. Yet, we like to play with our food these days and manipulate it into something mass-produced in a factory to the point where it has no resemblance to its namesake. When it comes to ramen, we’ve allowed convenience and 39 cent cups of noodles to satisfy our salty, contemporary tastes. And how. Americans have been slurping through instant noodles for decades without stopping to uncover the real story of ramen. I count myself, (not too proudly), as one of millions of college students who stashed cups of instant ramen noodles in dorm rooms--a quick snack after a late-night round of studying, (or partying). As I scanned the shelves of a local Asian market this morning, I counted over 200 different varieties and brands of what most of us (in other words me), associate as Ramen. There were packets and bowls of Shin Black Ramen, Japanese Shio, Bean and Jin Ramen, Shrimp, Clam and Spicy Seafood Flavor and “Fun and Yum” Ramen. But I also discovered that not all instant noodles are labeled ramen. There were Kimchi, Pad Thai and Tom Yum noodle cups. There was Japanese Curry flavor, Spicy Miso and “Sobai” dried noodles in single packs, 5 packs and the popular case size—literally a packing box full of instant noodles for just a few bucks. True Ramen is much more than dried noodles and powdered flavorings. Rooted in Japanese cuisine, Ramen embraces a deeply satisfying, herbal, mysterious, earthly-scented, steaming broth paired with silky, soft noodles, hearty meats and seafood and fresh, crisp vegetables. It is, as they say, a perfect bowl. Ramen is all the rage in restaurants and home kitchens alike right now, and while staying true to the classic foundations of the dish, all manner of delicious variations of Ramen are being crafted with beef tongue, lamb hocks, bottarga and salted broccoli. Ramen has even made its way into motion pictures, (The Ramen Girl, 2008), showcasing how this common dish in its truest form bonds people together. Please join me in exposing the delicious depths of ramen. We’ll debate the similarities and differences between “Ramen” and “Soba,” and we’ll present our own personal Ramen creations. Slurping is encouraged. See our complete Cook-Off Index here: https://forums.egullet.org/topic/143994-egullet-recipe-cook-off-index/

Campanelle with Italian Sausage, Swiss Chard and Garlic-

It's so rare to see it out West I've only bought it fresh. But the flesh is fairly firm so I think it might freeze o.k., yet fresh is always best.

During a recent trip to Oregon, I stopped by my favorite seafood store in Portland and found fresh Grouper. We rarely find Grouper in our one seafood shop in Spokane, and being set with my cooler filled with ice, in 6 hours I had fresh Grouper at home. The salad was a mix of green and black olives, red onion, tiny mushrooms, green beans and blood orange. I had planned on adding some fried polenta and a blood orange buerre blanc, but the dish only needed the crisp salad and sweet oranges paired with the Grouper. And next time I won't season the Grouper with the Cajun spice mix I used--it only needed salt and pepper. Grouper with a Blood Orange Salad-

Haven't been following as closely this season, but I get a good vibe from Majorie and I like her dishes.

I like the tangy flavors of mustard and vinegar against the rich, creaminess of squash. Sounds delicious!

Agreed that you don't really need the pate if you don't have the taste for it. I think the main thing is the bread roll, the meat and the pickled vegetables.

I do prefer the flavor of beef tallow over duck fat and it's far cheaper than the small bottles of duck fat I can find locally. Duck fat is quite delicious but I prefer the beef "drippings."

I love rack of lamb, but rarely take the loin off the bone. But an elegant holiday dinner called for a lamb loin, red wine sauce and roasted potatoes. The lamb couldn't have been simpler--just seasoned and sautéed in a hot pan to sear all sides then into a hot oven for about 10 minutes to medium-rare. The red wine sauce is an old standby-a reduction of 2 cups red wine, 2 tbsp. honey, rosemary, thyme, garlic, juniper berries and 1/2 cup beef stock. Reduced to 1/2 cup then a pat of butter whisked in along with a few shakes of Wondra flour to thicken. The potatoes were sliced russets cut with a decorative cookie cutter then blanched for about 5 minutes. Then tossed with my best ingredient find of 2015 and roasted in a hot oven until golden and crisp. The best ingredient find of 2015? Pure Beef Tallow! Roast Lamb Loin, Red Wine Sauce and Fried Potato-

Braised Monkfish in Spicy Tomato Sauce-

I don't form them ahead because the small amount of fresh bread crumbs seems to get gummy. I just form them and straight into the hot clarified butter in a non-stick pan. And yes! A good measure of Old Bay.

Finally after three weeks of waiting we have deliveries of fresh Dungeness Crab off the WA Coast. The fishery usually opens around December 1, but this year some of the fishing grounds off OR and WA were closed due to toxins in the water. I only buy fresh, deep-water crabs the first of the season, but my guy Mike at Williams Seafood in Spokane always comes through in the end, in spite of limitations during the first rush of folks wanting crabs for the Holidays. The photo doesn't do it justice, but this is my Dungeness Crab Cake on a bed of greens. It's a mix of fresh crab, homemade mayonnaise, red and green pepper, green onion, tabasco and a bit of fresh bread crumb. Always sautéed in clarified butter.

There's no dispute that Grayson racked up some impressive stats during Season 10. Of course, I'm far from an insider, but I just have a sense that an attitude may not play well with the judges when it comes down to choosing to let someone go, especially in the cases where the dishes are close. We've also seen great chefs, (albeit with attitude), get the boot in the past due to deplorable leadership and a nasty personality during "restaurant wars." An aside to what they say is a cooking competition, is how these contestants portray themselves during the show. Some are real idiots, yet they go on in their careers and outside of the show turn out to be likeable people. Marcel and Spike come to mind. I've seen them on television a number of times since they were on Top Chef and they appear to have tempered their self-imposed bad boy image. Of course, that could all be for "show" today. I agree that Top Chef often seems like a game show.