annecros

He must really, really like that wooden spoon treatment! ← Nah, he ducks and dodges, and after all I have a roux going and no time to aim. He is German and had an Oma that I am sure was much more effective with the wooden spoon than I'll ever be. I just might get lucky one day though. Or maybe that's what he is thinking...

Nothing can ever touch the overuse of the word "beautiful" by every single person on the food network. You jest. But it is not all that easy coming up with 1000 different ways to say tasty. ← Oh, tell me about it. I have done more audits than can be counted that have the question: "Was the food tasty?" Roget's only has so many alternatives listed.

Exactly. Hide in plain site. Works for me. One trip to the bathroom is enough for me, and I am generally reminding the DVR in my bra that there was plenty of tp, soap, drying apparatus was available, but the toilets were dirty at floor level around the base. or some such when I am in there. I am a pro, btw. That's the sort of thing I do. And you don't have to mumble into your DVR when the server comes up to the table and inquires if you are ready for you order. Just check the time on the recording. These days, they all introduce themelves at the beginning of service, which the DVR captures. Too easy. Relax and enjoy yourself, and the stuff I notice is generally stuff I would notice anyway. Because I have worked in the industry. I love technology. Edit: Take notes at the table, if you are there for pleasure. You will be assured of getting your money's worth. Also, make sure you get a receipt. BIG tip off, and it would make my life much easier when I am working if more people insisted on receipts. Too easy. Also, isn't the goal of both the reviewer and the auditor to capture the typical dining experience? How can you possibly do that without anonymity?

Oh, I am right there with you. My darling hubby, who I love and would walk the ends of the earth at his direction, somehow thinks it is cute to feel me up while I am in the middle of some critical point of putting the dinner together. I don't know if it turns him on watching me stir the roux and waiting to pounce with the broth when it is absolutely perfect, or what. That is when he gets the wooden spoon treatment. Don't get frisky while I'm making the gravy please dear. That's for AFTER dinner. He still does it, and giggles when I get mad. Oh well, I love him anyway, but boy is it infuriating. I guess he knows I am too distracted to stay mad for long, and he'll have time to make it up to me. And he always does. And then he does it AGAIN.

That and time, assuming you are doing a custard, and that's the best filling for eclairs in my opinion. I know I have run out of patience waiting for the custard to thicken a time or two, even though the recipe was perfectly good. Custards stick and scorch under direct heat. Maybe you can use one of those metal thingys (can't remember what they are called at the moment) and direct heat? Are you using gas or electric?

Critic anonymity is much discussed here on eGullet. Everyone concedes that the critics for major newspapers are going to be frequently recognized—perhaps not every time, but certainly much of the time. In his book Turning the Tables, eGullet's Fat Guy argues reasonably persuasively that there isn't a whole lot the restaurant can do to suddenly improve the place when a critic arrives. They can perhaps do a few things at the margins, and they'll certainly make sure not to assign their trainee waiter to his table, but basically the restaurant is what it is.Careful readers of Mr. Bruni's articles will find plenty of examples where he clearly was not recognized. Usually it shows up in service glitches, which is why it's perhaps appropriate that he went undercover as a server—the one aspect of the restaurant experience where he is probably treated differently than everybody else. Where Bruni gets bad service, it's usually at restaurants that had no reason to expect a forthcoming review from the Times. Most of the "big name" restaurants will recognize him instantly. Certainly they will figure it out when the same guy shows up several times in a matter of weeks with large parties, and places huge orders for ridiculous amounts of food as if money is no object, and with him tasting from everybody else's plate. Bruni's photo is on the Internet, so it's not difficult to find out what he looks like. ← I have to disagree. There is an awful lot that can be done. Just like the staff goes nuts when the notoriously big tipper walks into the door. I know I've done it. Even offered the kitchen a round if they took care of my customer. It is not the typical dining experience, and expecting it to be so is unrealistic. MOO.

Oh are you doing those? With the scale? I can't, as I have a conflict of interest, but there are a lot of them in the area. They seem like a real pain to me, though. I've been criticized and I have been mystery shopped. To my mind, they are more alike than different. I've never done a fine dining shop that didn't include the food quality. If you are a great secret shopper, then you are objectively criticizing the business. No presumption necessary, it is a fact. Thanks. Anne Edit: Come to think of it, I haven't even done a fast food shop that didn't require an evaluation of food quality.

And taking good notes as well, I assume Mimi. I love to hear about multiple visits, and yes it is about fairness to the restaurant and reader. Most especially the reader. That is the customer here. Our customer is the owner or manager of the facility who wants to know what is going on from the customer's pov. That whole people do what you inspect not what you expect thing. We have a built in rotation limitation we have to work within, in order to get a varied pov and a fair evaluation. Let's face it, and I don't want to seem as if I am always taking the side of the waitron unit, but some places just suck and are not worth the trip. I would want to know that it was a fair evaluation, but I would also want to know if I should not waste my time and effort. Law suits, huh? I can see it. I've known a couple of restaurant owners who would rather sue than improve the property and build the business. In fact, I am required by one company to keep my notes on file for two years, in case an employee is dismissed based upon my, and other, evaluations, and in case I have to testify in court. So far, I have been lucky and never had an evaluation questioned. Never been ID'd to my knowledge either. Of course, if the staff were smart they would never let on if they did realize what I was up to, and just give me fabulous service. I have been known to "behave" like a mystery shopper when not on a shop. It works. How do you manage to protect your anonymity? It would be defeating the purpose, I would think, if you were recognized when you walked into the door. I find it interesting to talk to a real live critic. I worked for a paper for a while, but as an "Advertorial" writer. heh. Bought and paid for by advertisers, that is. Thanks. Annie ← Never took a note in all the years I reviewed fro the Times. Maybe went home and wrote a few thoughts, but never in the restaurant..a sure giveaway. ← Actually, I use a digital voice recorder. Best $40 I ever spent, then upload the whole thing to a CD R/W when it is time to archive. Yep, I wear a wire. Edit: And I wait until I am in the ladies room to talk to my boobs.

Funny. I had an experience last Thanksgiving that brought all this home to me. I was sick with a bad stomach ON THANKSGIVING DAY of all days. I had purchased everything needed and had a plan in mind, but could literally do nothing but lay on the couch. Hubby, daughter and stepdaughter did everything at my direction from the couch of course, and followed all the parameters laid out. It was actually fun for them, and a huge relief for me. It brought the whole family unit together to, as they were all pitching in and taking care of me for a change. They felt good, I felt good, and everybody ate good. I reflected upon it later, and realized that my mother had never, ever, ever let me help in the kitchen. I had to train myself later, relearn some basics I should have picked up as a teenager, and rack my brain trying to remember how mom or grandma did something. Good thing I was a counter monkey as a kid! But, my stepdaughter was so excited that she can now make deviled eggs that are just as good as mine. Daughter found out how to make giblet gravy like HER mother and grandmother made it. And everyone had a good time. Hubby didn't get the dressing right, but oh well. Next time he might listen to me! I guess the whole point is to share the knowledge you have with others. It was a good day, and a memorable holiday.

And taking good notes as well, I assume Mimi. I love to hear about multiple visits, and yes it is about fairness to the restaurant and reader. Most especially the reader. That is the customer here. Our customer is the owner or manager of the facility who wants to know what is going on from the customer's pov. That whole people do what you inspect not what you expect thing. We have a built in rotation limitation we have to work within, in order to get a varied pov and a fair evaluation. Let's face it, and I don't want to seem as if I am always taking the side of the waitron unit, but some places just suck and are not worth the trip. I would want to know that it was a fair evaluation, but I would also want to know if I should not waste my time and effort. Law suits, huh? I can see it. I've known a couple of restaurant owners who would rather sue than improve the property and build the business. In fact, I am required by one company to keep my notes on file for two years, in case an employee is dismissed based upon my, and other, evaluations, and in case I have to testify in court. So far, I have been lucky and never had an evaluation questioned. Never been ID'd to my knowledge either. Of course, if the staff were smart they would never let on if they did realize what I was up to, and just give me fabulous service. I have been known to "behave" like a mystery shopper when not on a shop. It works. How do you manage to protect your anonymity? It would be defeating the purpose, I would think, if you were recognized when you walked into the door. I find it interesting to talk to a real live critic. I worked for a paper for a while, but as an "Advertorial" writer. heh. Bought and paid for by advertisers, that is. Thanks. Annie

Annecros, grits are very trendy (in NYC right now, at any rate) so no need to pass as polenta. This casserole sounds great. ← Good info to have and thanks for the update. Will inform my brother next time I see him. It is really an old recipe. An oldie but a goodie, as they say. I love it! edit: I have a very impressive collection of Martha White cookbooks. Some older than I am. They are my go to when I want something good, wholesome and homey. I also use the rolled dumpling recipe from a MW cookbook, and a fantastic sour cream pound cake recipe from these books. Sort of like a countrified King Arthur. Pillsbury bought them out about a decade ago, in order to compete in the Southern niche market. I am not sure what has happened with the company since Pillsbury sold out to General Foods, but I do know that Pillsbury kept most of it's shelf stable product line. "MMM, MMM It's Good!"

OK, I just printed this one off. Along with your modifications. That would be a great SuperBowl day breakfast while we are running around getting everything else ready. Thank you! ← No problem. It does make a great breakfast for a crowd. Put on a pot of coffee, and have fun. Say hi to the guy for me, and bon apetit.

I salute you, but it's not just the mechanics, it's also about how to make space read, which even many studio majors aren't taught nowadays. By rough analogy, it would be great if every food critic knew how to construct a creative dish -- or at least how to analyze its composition expertly -- not just in terms of technique, but how and why the sum is (or is not) greater than the parts. But it's also true that there are many ways to gain knowledge. For example, although I've never painted a canvas, I learned a great deal from listening to and observing my father, who is a painter. I could see how someone could learn a lot about food just by having parents who owned a restaurant or by hanging out with people in the restaurant industry, without any formal training. ← E.B. White was a great writer. He also co-wrote Strunk and White's "Elements of Style", which is the style book used at newspapers, businesses, and anybody else who wants to get it right. Experience. This is one of my favorite quotes on the subject: http://www.bartleby.com/141/ "Asserting that one must first know the rules to break them, this classic reference book is a must-have for any student and conscientious writer. Intended for use in which the practice of composition is combined with the study of literature, it gives in brief space the principal requirements of plain English style and concentrates attention on the rules of usage and principles of composition most commonly violated." Both, and most notably White, broke the rules. I thoroughly enjoyed "Charlotte's Web" and my children did after me. My daughter adored "A Tree Grows in Brooklyn" that broke quite a few rules. One must first know the rules to break them. I think that is a good philosophy, that transfers to many facets of life. MOO.

I salute you, but it's not just the mechanics, it's also about how to make space read, which even many studio majors aren't taught nowadays. By rough analogy, it would be great if every food critic knew how to construct a creative dish -- or at least how to analyze its composition expertly -- not just in terms of technique, but how and why the sum is (or is not) greater than the parts. But it's also true that there are many ways to gain knowledge. For example, although I've never painted a canvas, I learned a great deal from listening to and observing my father, who is a painter. I could see how someone could learn a lot about food just by having parents who owned a restaurant or by hanging out with people in the restaurant industry, without any formal training. ← It has been my experience, that anyone whose parents owned a restaurant got training, formal or not.

Nope, cooking does not kill the prions. Wash the exterior. At least, that is what I have always been taught. Grind your own meat. It tastes and cooks up much better. I am still a bit skeptical concerning the finding in muscle tissue. Trying to figure out how the little buggers that only live in brain or spinal fluid managed to survive in a muscle. Seems to defy science. MOO

Isn't a restaurant review, criticism, whatever you call it, generally laying "blame" regardless of the positive or negative results? Having worked in one, yes, it does lay blame upon the establishment for either being a failure or a success. Laying blame is the whole point of criticism. After all, while a painter only has himself to blame, the director has writers, cinematographers, actors, all have a responsibility concerning the final product.

Umm, what if it is the only overcooked steak that left that kitchen in the last six months, and the critic won the lottery? Just asking.

Absolutely, there is a distinction here. I agree. However, it must be said, assessing blame is important. For example, "The food was cold and tasted bad." OK. The bottom line is that the food was cold and tasted bad. What happened? Was the food neglected, was the chef negligent, was the food runner lazy? If the restaurant does not understand what happened, how will they improve? Bad feedback without some specifics is just bad feedback. I can give you a specific example with my personal experience. I was reviewed as the server at Bistro One in Orange Park, Florida. It was a great little place, owned by the people who ran the Raintree in St. Augustine. It was one of my favorite jobs. The site has since been bulldozed, and I was between babies, so that would be 1985 or so. It was a Sunday night, and I was simply in the weeds up to my neck. Something was going on, in that I had to take double my normal section on a Friday or Saturday in order to handle the volume. Staffing in the kitchen reflected the expected business that one would expect on a Sunday evening. Understaffed, that is. I served the critic a cold cup of coffee. I should have checked but didn't and just poured it up and served it. When I checked back, she told me the coffee was cold, I immediately pulled the cup and apologized, then went into the back and started the fresh pot. I returned to the table, apologized for the delay, and told her I had started a fresh pot of coffee for her and that I would be serving it my next trip out. Then I did so. Guess what? I got a great review. The restaurant was booming for several months later. I got a bonus from my boss that was more than generous, and I got the pick of wait sections for at least a month later until I was pregnant again, and had to slack off. I saved the establishment some ugliness in the Jacksonville, Florida paper, because I made time to make an error right. I must add, that I was on very great terms with the kitchen there. If they told me the plate was going to be late, I went out and stalled. If they told me they had to start the plate over again, I went out and smiled and offered a free cocktail. Whatever it took, it was a team effort. Do you realize what a disaster a cold cup of coffee could have been for that establishment if it had been written up differently? I was not aware that this was a critic until well after I waited on her, and the article was published. She dutifully recounted the episode in her review of the restaurant, and that is how we recognized her at a later date. It did wonders for business, and I made some additional bucks in the meantime. She knew what was going on. Pure and simple. And her one complaint was mitigated by her knowledge, expertise, and experience. One remark in her column that I will never forget was, "The waitress was busy, but never too busy to bring a straw for the child at our table, or start a fresh pot of coffee..." Perceptions are not always reality. There is plenty of blame to go around, and it is usually spread pretty thick, but it needs to be identified and corrected. And I guess that is the point I am trying to make with all this typing. Thanks again John. Annie

Hi John, Actually, I think we are more in agreement here than disagreement. How's that for diplomacy? My biggest point is that yes, the reviewer needs to be able to reflect the customer experience. He also needs to understand when he or she is being duped. And I think the best source of knowledge is hands on experience. You can read about sex, or voodoo, or composing a sonata - but does that mean that you really understand about sex, or voodoo or composing a sonata? Did the waiter screw up the order? Or did the kitchen and food runner screw up the order? Or did the waiter have bad handwriting? or did you just get someone elses order because some other waiter wrote in the wrong table number? Was it the waiter's responsibility to refill your water glass? Or was it the responsibility of the wait back? Or the bus people? Was the waiter overcome with volume, or just didn't care? Was the wait captain on the floor, directing his staff? Or was he absent after seating you for the duration of the meal? Where do you lay the blame? On the restaurant as a whole, of course. But you really have to have the knowledge of the mechanics to understand the subtleties of where to lay the blame. I guess I am sensitive, because what I do can and will have an effect upon the individuals I evaluate. Even if it is just a discussion and review of wait procedures between the captain and the server. It is still a reprecussion. Publish the stuff in the New York Times, and the reprecussions magnify. Exponentially Yes, the final result is at the table, and the dining experience is the point of the review. Granted. However, you can receive an exceptional dining experience in a house that is not running up to standard every day, or receive a dissappointing experience in a house that is running on all sixes. How will you tell the difference? Knowledge, pure and simple. Enjoying the discussion, and thank you. Annie

Don't know what part of the country you are from, but even yankees are amazed and appreciative of this recipe for sausage cheese grits casserole: http://www.marthawhite.com/recipes/recipeD...?recipeid=17444 Get up a little early, pop it in the oven, and let it go. I can't keep people out of it. Call it a polenta casserole if you like, and even use cooked polenta if you must be honest. No matter. Modifications? I add about an eighth of a teaspoon of dried mustard, and do so on a regular basis. Something about dried mustard and cheddar does an amazing thing. Ham or bacon could be substituded for the sausage, if you like. Some diced green pepper, onion and mushroom have all been used in my household to keep things interesting. Heck, you could even toss a handfull of spinach in there if you are feeling frisky, or maybe garlic. Garlic/cheddar/onion make a very good seasoning mix, to my taste. Other than that, I would think a quiche. Deep dish, in a springform, tall and full of lovely things. You have to mess around with the pastry though, and it would be a bit trickier than the dump and bake casserole. All depends upon your taste, and what you like. Good luck.

I agree that a restaurant critic need not have worked in the industry, but I think some expertise is called for, beyond mere enthusiasm for dining out—which is all Frank Bruni seems to bring to the party. ← I don't think it is "expertise" that is important. One rarely, if ever, refers to critics and reviewers as 'experts." I believe it is perspective that is important. That perspective can be the result of a critic who draws upon a certain expertise such as Pierre Franey or Craig Claiborn--it can be a cumulation of myriad experiences as a restaurant patron and food enthusiast--Johnny Apple or Ruth Reichl etc. ← Hmm. Please help me understand. Isn't being an "expert" a vital component of being a critic? And isn't it implied, if not stated? http://www.thefreedictionary.com/critic I think that is where the source of the "gravitas" lies, in being expert. An art critic, a food critic, a music critic, in order to be taken seriously, must necessarily be an "expert", correct? Drawing upon expertise is a life experience and can make one an expert, does it not? As does dining in numerous venues, and assorted cuisines and cultural influences and just plain not liking liver. I guess I should make it clear, I do not think that having some hands on experience is required to be a critic, but I do believe that hands on experience can only increase one's expertise, thus making them a better critic, thus endowing the "gravitas" so necessary for the critic to be successful. In other words, a person can call himself a critic all he likes, but if he wants to be taken seriously he better have taken many steps across a kitchen or dining room if he wants me to listen to him. I certainly take with a HUGE grain of salt the opinion of anyone who has never worked in the industry, because I know that some subjectivness is going to creep in there, no matter how hard the reviewer or critic tries to remain objective. They just can't begin to realize the mechanics required to pull off a beautiful plate of food for several hundred people, seamlessly and, from the point of view of the customer, effortlessly. A great server will never let you see them sweat. Some hands on experience can only improve the job the critic is being paid to do, and the worth of his opinion more valuable. Then there are the objective/subjective opinions and evaluations heaped upon the bonfire of the review or criticism. I did find the story to be rather vain and self centered, but aren't most diners? It cannot hurt to offer the regular reader an insight, either, as some diners are of course oblivious. Edit to add: A great server can and will make you like what you get. It is a simple fact that a multitude of sins can be handled with grace and diplomacy and sometimes a smattering of attitude, leaving the customer with the perception that the food was wonderful, the atmosphere incredible, and the service outstanding, even if they went through 3 cocktails and half a bottle of wine before dinner. In fact, especially if they went through 3 cocktails and half a bottle of wine before dinner. Unless one has snowed the customer, the customer will not even realize he is being snowed. If the face at the table does the job, and believe me, they will if they can (The tip depends upon it).

Precisely! I am amazed at the number of food writers who seem to have little to no industry experience. It's good to walk a mile in another person's shoes. But for a real behind the scenes treat--why doesn't he try dishwashing? I did it for two years in high school. It was my first job. ← That would be a good spot for someone who really wants to know how things work in a restaurant. Service sort of revolves around the basic necessity of clean plates, silver and glassware, pots and pans. The dishwasher often gets drafted by both sides of the house at times as well to bring up any slack that may be going on. Unfortunately, the dishwasher gets grief from both sides of the house as well when things aren't running efficiently. I don't know what kind of shape Bruni is in physically, though. What struck me was that he did not bring back, or at least did not acknowledge in his story, the fact that a great server can smooth over delays in food and beverage service that are beyond his/her control. Handle the grumpy customer who really just wants to complain, or make appropriate small talk with the one top that is lonely and just wants to chat. A great server can handle all of the above, plus the six top out on prom night, and make them all think they had a fantastic time in a first class restaurant and are eager to return or spread some positive word of mouth. It is an art form.

No hand switches for me. Hubby converted me, yet I am still unable to eat my fried chicken with a knife and fork, but it is an amazing thing to watch. Porterhouse, start on the filet side, cutting the filet off of the bone, then cut a thin strip, add mushroom or potato to fork, shovel, guzzle a bit of wine, repeat until the filet is history. Strip side, I am starting to get full now, I will usually carve a quarter at a time off the bone until I am full. Usually leaving a half to three quarters of the strip on the bone, to go into a baggie and into the fridge to be seared in the morning with my scrambled eggs and leftover mushrooms. Maybe if there was some potato left over it will go in too. Lots of worchestershire and pepper. Those are the super saltly, whole, "vat" style mushrooms by the way - that have been steeping in their garlicy, winey, buttery brine for the afternoon. Not a little wimpy pile of sliced and sauted things. We did this last week. Yummy.

Well, I say good on Bruni for at least giving it a shot. Although, he'll never really "get it" in a week, but I am sure that some will stick. For some time now, I have evaluated service in a wide varitiety of establishments. Everything from fast food, to chain steakhouses, to supper clubs, to very exclusive business clubs, and even a few privately owned fine dining establishments. It's commonly referred to as "mystery shopping", and believe me, you'll never get rich doing it! But since my health is an issue, and this sort of thing gives me a flexible, interesting way to fill my time and make a little jack on the side, and enjoy a meal on someone elses dime - I thoroughly enjoy it. But I digress. My past experience in food service, all the way from sandwich shops through to fine dining in my 20's, has been invaluable. I probably have to bring more detail back than would be neccessary for a reviewer - service times, traffic, employee names and descriptions, etc. but I have had to write narratives adding up to four or five pages, single spaced, of the entire dining experience from start to finish. Objectivity and fairness are at the top of the list - after all, someone's job may depend on my narrative, just as a restaurant's business can be dramatically enhanced or ruined depending upon how Bruni writes it up. I cannot imagine being able to fairly evaluate a restaurant, its food and service without ever having worked in one. I mean honestly, there are so many tiny things that a diner takes for granted - were you offered bottled water? was your bread preset and was the butter soft? was your silverware and glasswear spotless? was the server neat? did the server smile AND make eye contact? did the staff work together as a team to ensure service? was the hot plate hot and the cold plate cold? did you get the "tour" of the menu? was the server knowledgable? how long did it take the server to pick up on the cues that you were finished with your plate? did the establishment manage to feed you lunch from start to finish in 30 minutes? was the food cooked to the proper temp? was it sloppily plated? All this and many more details add up to make the subjective judgement that the service was "good" or "bad". And we all know that taste is subjective, especially. I cannot see how some hands on experience could do anything but make a reviewer better, and enable him to do a better job for his/her customer, the reader interested in a restaurant. Just my two cents - and as usual I inflated it to a $1.02

Well some people tend to carry thier garlic with them after they've eaten it in the form of BO or bad breath. Her job is mostly smiling warmly, shaking hands, and making polite coversation. Perhaps she is one of those that sweats garlic the next morning, and that just wouldn't do in the reception line meeting dignitaries. The long pasta is obviously a self preservation, and wadrobe preservation, move. Here's the website of one of her former chef's, who also worked for Diana. http://www.theroyalchef.com/ There are a couple of interesting looking recipes there, nothing earth shattering. Though the asparagus is coming in down here now, and the soup looks good.