John DePaula

Joy of Cooking and The Fannie Farmer Cookbook are old stand-bys. When I want to hit a "home run" I always turn to Julia Child's The Way to Cook.

To tag along on this thread, can you tell me why you fold the liquer into the emulsion, rather than adding it to the cream before the chocolate? Is it a matter of safeguarding flavor compounds? I've seen this frequently and have always wondered. Thanks for all so far! ← The alcohol adds some complimentary flavors and can be used as a vehicle to carry the aromatics in the chocolate. Because it's volatile, depending on the desired effect, you don't want to boil it off by placing it in the hot cream.

In recipes that I infuse a spice such as lavender, vanilla or fresh mint, I boil the cream by itself first and then do the infusion. When that's done, I add the glucose and reheat just to the boil stirring well all the while. I do not want to damage the delicate flavor profile of the infusion. In recipes that are flavored with liqueurs, I usually boil the cream with the glucose, and pour onto the chocolate. Proceed normally to make the emulsion, and then fold in the liqueur. So I guess the answer to your question is that it really doesn't matter when you add the sweetener as far as the end product is concerned. I prefer to add it at the start, just for convenience. I haven't heard of boiling the cream three times. I do happen to use organic ultra-pasteurized cream, and my chocolates are shelf-stable for about 3-4 weeks, just what you'd expect for not using preservatives. So I just went to take a look at the Wybauw book, Fine Chocolates / Great Experience. In some of the recipes, he adds the sweetener at the start even if he's doing an infusion (basil ganache). In some he folds in the sweetener, in this case honey, after the hot cream is already added to the chocolate (Anise and Honey Ganache). By the way, I highly recommend this book. You can find threads about it on eGullet. That's absolutely true. In addition, if your cream is too hot you are in for a long wait while the ganache cools down enough to use. If it's not hot enough, then all of your chocolate doesn't melt. This is definitely a "Goldie Locks" situation. Don't worry about your cream going translucent when you heat it with sweetener. I think it just means that more of the solids in the cream are going into solution and mixing with the sweetener. The end product isn't adversely affected. Hope this helps.

one beer short of a six pack

Typically, one uses glucose, corn syrup, invert sugar or honey to sweeten. Also, these help prevent recrystallization of your ganache, which could be a problem if you use granulated sugar.

Thanks very much, Alan. We know it's a lot of work to put together a demo and we really appreciate it. Following with interest,

Absolutely! Are you kidding?!? I think any dedicated chocophile would love to see the process as a DEMO thread. I do hope that you have an assistant to take the pix, though, since it's a bit difficult to manage a camera and work at the same time. Good luck; we're all looking forward to it.

I second Trishiad's comments. Like her, I also use a soft caramel, which I pipe into the molded shells using a tipless piping bag.

Good luck! We will all certainly be keeping an eye on your progress!

Chocosphere

Thanks for the post! Lots of lovely pictures remind me of the time I spend in Dordogne. And I agree with you about the Duck Confit. Its one of my favorite dishes EVER - along with Pommes Sarladaise, of course!

Hands down, it is CHOCOLAT for me! The story and the luminous Juliette Binoche inspired me to open a chocolate store...

One of my favorites, and one that is always a hit, is the simple recipe by Donna Hay available on MarthStewart.com for Star Anise Pork. Very good, flavorful and simple!

I agree – this is a great idea for a series! I have made an effort to learn many of the dishes that my mother and grandmother used to cook when I was a child. I am of Sicilian heritage and there are many wonderful dishes that no one seems to cook anymore. A show focusing on these types of "antique" cuisines could help us stay connected to our past and rediscover some old (and new) favorites.

The easiest and most hygienic way to chop up those difficult blocks is to leave the chocolate in its original wrapping and place atop a sturdy, clean counter top. Again with the stress-relieving: whack the chocolate several times with a French hardwood rolling pin (e.g. JBPrince French Rolling Pin ) until it is in small enough pieces.* If you find it necessary, you can put the chocolate into one of those jumbo Ziploc plastic bags before whacking. *Make sure the rolling pin wood grain is aligned properly so that you won't split it, just in case. Some comments: 1) Dropping the chocolate to the floor will certainly break up the chocolate, but it is also likely to cause tiny tears in the plastic bag or covering. So your chocolate is coming into contact with the floor. 2) Placing the chocolate under your arm? I think that staining my outfit is the least of my concerns with this technique. 3) Using a rubber mallet to hit your chocolate chopper is definitely the way to go if you use this tool. You have much much more control, use a lot less effort, and you don't end up with tiny holes in your counter top/cutting board. 4) Scott is correct about the chocolate being more vulnerable to absorbing odors. Be sure to store your chopped chocolate in a cool dry place, preferably in an airtight container, and only for a short period of time. 5) I also use the food processor if I need the chocolate chopped extra finely.

I remember a related article from Cook's Illustrated (March/April 2000) High-Roast Chicken Perfected. Very informative piece describing this technique; a favorite of mine. Love your work, Sara. And I love that you always answer questions in a kind a thoughtful way. Looking forward to seeing you on PBS!

You can also pick up a bunch of extra freezer-style white wire bins to help segregate contents. The list is a good idea too, along with dates, but you've got to be diligent keeping it up to date.

Oh, I just love this stuff. Nothing at all like the "paprika" that I grew up with in the Deep South!

I have made many items from this cookbook; it's one of my favorites! Chocolate Ruffle Cake: exquisite; Pecan Sticky Buns: wonderful! Pecan Sticky Buns Surprisingly, this was a big hit in France when I was at cooking school. The chefs seemed really curious about it (I made it for 'International Bread Day') and they enjoyed it a lot. Let's see, what else have I made: Vanilla Pound Cake. Delicious by itself and very versatile if you want add some stewed fruits on the side. Ooo, almost forgot one of my favorites: Raspberry-Fig Crostata. That sesame-almond crust is just incredible and very impressive for a party. Blueberry-Nectarine Pie, X-Cookies, Croissants, Flaky Pie Dough is a standard, Baguettes, etc. I recommend this book, along with Baking with Julia, whenever anyone asks.

I agree with Jeanne. If you don't have a torch, then you may also try a hair dryer. I have a hot air paint stripper that works as well.

Well, probably when I requested an Easy-Bake Oven for Christmas at age 6 or 7. That was a serious clue. And not just that I'd become a foodie...

Julia Child's Baking with Julia and The Way to Cook are both excellent. The latter is especially good about letting you know what you can do ahead. For more advanced pastry work, I recommend Bilheux and Escoffier's French Professional Pastry Series. Very detailed instructions and timelines. Recipes usually have a professional quantity version and a scaled down smaller version.

Personally, I find the use of cell phones at a restaurant quite crass. If you must take a call, simply step away from the table. Ideally, your phone should be set to silent ring mode (vibrate) so as to disrupt the evening for everyone else as little as possible.

It's not being stored properly. Take it back and never buy chocolate there again.