Steve Klc

Which brings us back to what Wendy was asking Verbena, which is the relevant point--what have you tried and tested already? which recipes have you tried from which books aren't working out and then we might be able to help point you in a better direction as melkor very ably tried to do. We have no idea which chocolate you're using, what equipment you have, what's your skill level--none of that was made clear. That's what you have to bring to the table Verbena and you did not. When the pros and other knowledgeable users here, already very generous of their time, ask you (or KateW or anyone) a question in a thread you started, it works both ways. As you can see from the link chefette just gave you, turns out a few excellent recipes for liquid center chocolate cakes, which can be done ahead and held or zapped in the microwave and may be just the thing you're looking for, are already on the site. But more importantly the thought process behind this is here as well, like in tan's last post, and so, too are very giving experienced pros who can help talk you through something if you get stuck. But we get to engage you in the process, and hopefully you'll appreciate what it means to be part of a community, rather than a mere recipe sharing exercise on the web. This line by KateW, meant to disparage, actually defines what's valuable about this eG pastry forum--she said "People here are eager to help expand upon ideas you have but reluctant to give you their own great ideas"--and to that I say "precisely." You see, pastry and baking is a learning curve, it's evolutionary and it takes time, a long time, to get good. You might as well start taking some responsibility for yourself--which means you have the pride in yourself to bring something to the table, to report on your experiements and ideas--and when constructive criticism is offered you say, "thank you chef I appreciate the time you took to post that, but here's what I don't understand..." How you really help someone learn and grow is try to develop what's within them--and help get them to the next level--and for each person this is going to be on a different timetable, and involve different creativity and skills. KateW shows me she may be starting to get it with her last line, however: "you'll be glad when that part of it comes from yourself." All of us do talk about our own ideas and projects--and explore them with each other online--when we're not working or helping others that is.

After I posted that, though, I was driving out Wilson Blvd. from where I line in Courthouse and I thought to myself why not places along the Orange line metro, depending on where she's coming from these would qualify as metro accessible--and here's the thing--these restaurants don't get as crowed on a Friday night as early as the downtown-afterwork scene gets crowed. It's probably too late for tonight--but even on a Friday night pretty leisurely single book reading with good food and light and a regular table could be accomplished at, say Singh Thai, Minh's, Boulevard Wood Grill and Sam & Harrys--plenty of booths and tables open right in that Courthouse/Clarendon corridor say 6-7PM. By leaving downtown, leaving the scene, you might get cut more slack--I'm thinking the best ambience for single book reading/dining might be Sam and Harry's, actually, some comfy chairs, fireplaces, stylish decor, etc. And all of these places would be more casual than the others mentioned.

That's kind of what I'm getting at because this is a more complicated request than where can a single female foodie in her mid-twenties go to eat--that's easy. Add a busy Friday night--that's still pretty easy--though that probably rules out the busiest, most stylish places. But add that reading a book aspect and you have to think what place might not be so good that it will of course be jammed, what place might have a quiet well-lit bar scene where a single woman is not going to get hassled on the one hand--or might not mind giving over a booth or table to just one person to kind of linger. And I wonder if that request--single, read a book, Friday night, casual--might not be at odds with the food aspect in this town--and leave you with places like a Teaism which I don't think many people associate with dinner. Good call tweaked--any idea how comfortable the chairs are in Teaism, though? If Breadline were open at night that might be a better casual book-reading hassle-free "food" option, but alas it is not. Rachiesarah--where you taking the metro from?

The thing I'm concerned about is this--where would the best place be to go for a single person to sit, eat and read a book on a really busy Friday night, to not feel uncomfortable and to have enough light to read? I don't think that is that easy a question to answer. Depending on your definition of casual you are definitely going to be under-dressed at many of the places mentioned so far, merely sitting in the bar is not that great an option to read a book, it's too loud and there's too much going on around you, anyone waiting for a table or a reservation will be bumping into you on a happening Friday night scene, so the "scene" places are out, especially since the after work crowd gets there early anway, a nice lounge with comfy chairs like Firefly off from the bar is too dark to read, etc. You almost need a place which wouldn't mind you taking up a space by yourself and lingering to read a bit--and how likely is that to happen on a Friday? I'm intrigued by how this eventually plays out.

I think it sounds tasty and looks tasty as well, but wow, there is a lot here. "That's my major complaint about that other site that I know you are familiar with. There isn't that sense of back and forth and open debate that I so enjoy here on eGullet." It's OK to mention Chowhound, really, no need to play coy. By now, everyone knows exactly what you'll find on that lightweight site and what you won't. And for those reading along who inhabit Chowhound and eG, instead of reprising stuff already posted on Chowhound first, just link to it. eG doesn't delete mention of CH, unlike the way CH actively deletes links and mentions of eG. Engage here, engage there, wherever you find it more rewarding and comfortable. When you are here, though, we all should try to refrain from casting personal aspersions on or "characterizing" other eG board members. That's childish and unfortunately seems to belie age; it's also against our User Agreement. Let's stick to what people actually write, engage on the merits and ideas expressed and not wander into speculation about the "person" or the class of users or the pretentiousness of the "board." That's not how we at eG operate. Here's an example of something which clashes with our User Agreement: "I think a lot of people on this board are really impressed with lines formed for social reasons that have little to do with how something really tastes! This is excellent chicken, but there is no way that it justifies the lines that you all seem to think it does. It also has absolutely nothing in common with fresh chicken tossed in flour and egg and other seasonings then fried in Crisco or Fluffo in a black cast iron skillet that is well seasoned. If anyone thinks this is really good chicken then I'm going to suggest that they've never had really good fried chicken. Incredible that so many of you will jump on a bandwagon! It doesn't seem to matter to anyone on here that standards have changed this much, nor is there any apparent interest in finding what something use to, what it really SHOULD taste like. Unbelievable. And this is supposed to be for people who are passionately into food. I really am on the WRONG board." Perhaps, but that should have been expressed privately, or just acted upon by leaving, and is a choice everyone has to make for themselves; it really shouldn't be discussed in a thread about the merits and mystique of a certain chicken place. Malawry summarized my feelings nicely in an earlier post, everyone here, Joe included, has a lot to share should they care to engage as a member of this community. But that engagement works both ways and doesn't include judging the community. That might not make us the right board for you, but that would make us eGullet. Back to the chicken please.

"The main advantage of these models is that they temper as little as 4 oz of chocolate at a time. If you're running a small restaurant or are a really advanced home user, making such a small volume of chocolate is perfect. The more expensive machines have a min. of 1-3 lbs. That's a hell of a lot of tempered chocolate for the non professional or small restaurant." Though I haven't battle-tested the later Chocovision/Sinsation/Revolution-style models, they've always seemed gimmicky and cheap and some of the earlier instructions I read seemed, well, not all that helpful; I have put the ACMC through its paces and also the twice-as-expensive Italian tabletop temperer which JB Prince sells--and found them both reliable, the Italian one a very reliable accurate tank, and, to add to what Tim said, eliot, even home users, let alone advanced home users and small restaurants you're talking about, should really work with minimum 1 to 1.5 pounds up to several pounds at a time--it "works" better, it holds its temper longer, it's more forgiving to raise heat slightly. If you want 4 ounces of chocolate I'd bet directly warming it in the microwave would be faster and more accurate than in a machine, any machine. One thing most of us agree on is that it is very efficient to do small amounts for small projects by hand--perhaps even more efficient than it is in one of these machines. In case anyone doesn't know this, the heat source in some machines is a light bulb, a regular household light bulb turned on and off by circuitry and a temperature probe. And even more important than the heat source is the "cooling" source--how well-designed the fan and flow is to cool your warm chocolate down. An inexpensive machine may not do this well--and if you are working in a warm room--forgettaboutit. It's not like these inexpensive machines have built-in cooling ability. In less than ideal conditions, you can still temper the chocolate you'll need for even a big project in minutes by hand. Then you can dump it into a less expensive "warmer" if you prefer and hold it for a pretty long time. I guess what most of the pastry chefs on this thread are advising is this--don't buy a tempering machine, any tempering machine, as a substitute for or as a shortcut to fundamentally understanding chocolate and working with chocolate. It's not. And the machine itself won't help you learn how to temper--in fact, it will probably confuse you since you don't actually know what you are doing, why you are doing it, you don't know how to adjust for all the variables, the science, the different tempering methods, the missteps that will throw you off, the stuff the supposed experts don't tell you in their books. I would like to hear some current Revolution reports, though.

well said Tim and Alana--Mary--don't buy a tempering machine if you cannot temper comfortably by hand in each of several different ways first--tabliering, seeding, direct warming. Inside and out, day in and day out. Spend your money getting to that point--and on any special truffle and confectionery related instruction you feel you might need--and then consider buying a machine. you'll thank us later.

"Lou's despair is warranted...I can't even imagine a plausible reason why his restaurant is not included in this book" If I've been reading along correctly, and given what I've always perceived to be possible inherent murkiness and lack of accountability of Zagat, we have identified one plausible reason--that the local NJ Zagat "editor" might say his restaurant did not receive the 100 vote minimum. If that is indeed the threshold--what if it is 200 votes in NJ? Do we know if this is disclosed anywhere? Also, I had a conversation with a Zagat editor (and eGullet member) recently--not in the Northeast or Mid-Atlantic region--and this is from our exchange: "a certain number of people must "vote" on the restaurant, and if the votes number less than "x", then as a local editor, we can't include them, which sucks, because there are so many really terrific off-the-eaten-path restaurants out there, but unfortunately it's a case of majority rules. I can add 20-30 restaurants to the survey that, in my opionion, should be included, but if the votes aren't there, the restaurant is SOL." Which I interpreted as meaning: restaurants that didn't make the cut in the previous survey and/or didn't make the previous book--have to be added to the next survey by the editor--or have to be written in by the voters. But that in either case--if you don't get the minimum votes, you don't get in and that a local editor cannot circumvent this. Here's where it gets interesting. "There are all sorts of other tangibles for restaurant exclusions, as well, but that seems the most prevelant in the books I edit. For Zagat's America's Tops books, we also have to include -- no exceptions -- those restaurants which our voters deem the most popular, even if we, as editors, completely disagree. It's a numbers game. I'm a huge ethnic food freak, and those are the restaurants that seem to fall by the wayside when it comes to Zagat, so I'm working on a "x" ethnic restaurant book proposal to compensate for that!" (I've removed the geographic reference and the threshold number of votes to protect this person's identity--but suffice it to say the threshold vote amount was not 100.) But this quote: "There are all sorts of other tangibles for restaurant exclusions" prompts me to wonder--what might these other tangibles be? And how might that be influenced by the personal bias or preference of either the local editor or the Zagats themselves? Is it possible for a local editor--out of bias or spite--to exclude a restaurant which has met the minimum threshold of votes? "I'm starting to think about using quotes from e-gulleteers in my press" You mean you aren't already?

Well, Jason, what the Seelbach marketing folks might have been trying to convey is that they were the only fine dining restaurant in the state with a working CEPC. When I last visited Sullivan and ate a fine meal there, yes CEPC's were instructors but students made the desserts served in their dining room. Still, I wouldn't quibble too much over this. It may have been nothing more than the Seelbach trying to impress a potential pastry or baking assistant into taking the job there working under the CEPC. Also, I do think it is interesting what you noticed about this Seelbach job posting--and its timing--and how the previous chef team without a pastry chef might contrast with a new management team set on hiring an actual pastry chef. Perhaps we can explore the implications of this on another thread--like pastry recognition or Sinclair's thread about her job search. But you have nothing to apologize for. Let's keep this thread more on what zilla really wants to engage on--the desserts she's creating and Southern flavors and ideas and Bourbon, etc. The other points have already been made here and we have already moved that discussion elsewhere anyway.

Alana--I think you ask a good question--recommendations about good tempering machines will be different based on use--not just on price. So Mary--two questions--how do you envision using the tempering machine day-in and day-out? And how strong are you when it comes to tempering--are you already a pro and pretty fluent with chocolate? I've used the ACMC--what's $950 CAN in US dollars?

Neil--how are you liking the revised "new" 6 quart Kitchenaids at FPS? Any opinions yet?

"The only thing I found a bit annoying about the operational set up is there is no seating near the point-of-purchase" Neil--I agree, but then again I think that's more than a fair tradeoff considering the cost of doing business in such a prime ground-floor street level location. It also gets you that much closer to foodlife upstairs. If I lived in Chicago and ate there for lunch regularly my check would probably average $7-$8--I'd get 3 bao (3.57) plus hot & sour chicken noodle soup (3.19) plus hibiscus iced tea (1.69) or a 2 bao plus pad thai "salad" combo (4.49) plus ginger ale (2.19). I bet the normal person check average is $5.50-$6. Lee--I'd say roughly 3" wide by 2.5" high but I ate them too quickly to make a mental measurement. I hope we see more locations popping up in my downtown as well as yours Neil!

And the chargers work interchangeably between foamers, or at least seem to for me. The Kisag model I have Matt is JB Prince item# B978--I only have the Fall mailing in front of me and it's pictured on page 34.

Quality is quality trillium--it either tastes good or it doesn't--and sure you'll find interesting cheaper things in asian snack shops and all sorts of Chowhound-approved dives but you didn't actually say Wow Bao wasn't delicious. I've never been to Portland (that's pdx?) and it doesn't surprise me you like Sun Snack shop. My point is Wow Bao brings accessibility and a fair price to something vastly underappreciated--who hasn't had kung pao chicken, but a steamed bun?--and yet tastes damn good despite that process of trying to appeal more overtly to a mainstream audience, which includes a drop-dead beautiful, gleaming, spotless, impeccably-designed kitchen and store front. Hi-rent location plus design plus packaging costs more money. But I think Bruce has also proved it doesn't have to taste any less delicious. He's going to introduce many people to something they weren't even aware they wanted until he introduced it to them. And later, after being wowed by bao here, some yuppie you're looking down on just might be a little more willing to try that not-so-strange-anymore steamed bun with lap cheung at some out of the way snack shop as well--under the el, in pdx or in Shanghai. And just like Starbucks has helped raise awareness of espresso, and helped create a better climate where artisinal roasters and small cafes who do a better job can also thrive--if Wow Bao were to hit it just might allow more people in pdx to appreciate that bun you like, and the owners of that shop to raise their prices ever so and send their kids to a better college or remodel.

This is a great media coup on Tom's part--now instead of just talking about the reviews, whether Tom gets out into the burbs enough (which he does) whether he focuses too much on ambience and decor (which he does not) people can talk about the ranking system behind the review, a la Biff Grimes and the New York Times. THAT discussion is still going strong years later. Personally, I never appreciated the Post habit of a "Favorites" list as much as others--too vague, too much wiggle room, to easy to overlook some people doing the best work in town. I'd rather have an annual "Best" list--and read about who is currently doing the best work around town and why. Like how in Chicago every year Chicago Magazine ranks their best 20 restaurants in order--so last year Chicago diners could read that the magazine critics selected Tru as #1 restaurant overall, best wine program and best service--then this year while Tru garnered best service again, Grant Achatz got best chef, that Everest and Jean Joho got best restaurant, that Trio got best wine program, etc. And we locals and tourists alike could read all about why. That would also help rectify the glaring problem, as witnessed with Grimes and the NY Times, that certain 4 star restaurants are still 4 stars on paper yet haven't actually been reviewed since 1998--meaning his predecessor's reviews for those restaurants are still on the Times website! In addition to some sort of modified Favorites/Best and the new number of stars, whatever the stars actually turn out to mean, I'd also like Tom to select the chef, pastry chef, bread baker, sommelier, wine program and service program who he thinks has been the best in any given year--so we all can read about who he thinks has consistently created, surprised, surpassed expectation and moved our local dining scene forward the most--and why. It goes without saying I like the Magazine cover choice--I believe it is Jose's third Post magazine cover in the past 10 years.

By the way, for anyone unfamiliar with Bruce Cost, here's a little blurb: http://www.prochef.com/peanuts/peanuts0402.html Thanks, too, for all the links--yes, TP and tan_cl, that recipe with Water-Lily flour, baking powder, yeast, shortening, etc. seems like it would produce exactly that soft, moist, spongy white texture. Oh, and I forgot the coolest little touch at Wow Bao--each bun sits on a paper "skin" which has the filling variety printed on it, so when several varieties are placed in a bag you can still tell them apart when you get home or back to the office.

"An acquaintance works for competing store (um, largest chain in the area) and says that they are very concerned about this one measly store from Wegmans. They have sent groups to from here to scope out Wegmans and see what's coming." That's an interesting comment fangva. When the whole Bread & Circus/Fresh Fields boomlet happened in DC you saw the likes of Giant and Safeway adapt slightly--ever so slightly. But it was a token adaptation and their stores still stink. And while Whole Foods doesn't "stink" it panders pretentiously and underwhelms. And it's Whole Foods who should fear the arrival of Wegmans more than anyone else--because WF knew all along their Mid-Atlantic region stores under-served their market, that they weren't as good as they could be or should be given the efforts of other WF stores around the country. I can't wait for all the now-buried resentment of WF to pour out of customers who up until this Wegmans arrival had no other choice. I pity Whole Foods, not Giant or Safeway--because Whole Foods knew better, knew full well of Wegmans or of a Food Life in Chicago--yet chose to ignore their lessons.

So I e-mailed Rocklands with this link before I went to Chicago and I got this in reply: "I read egullet all the time, love it, and am glad you gave me a heads up! I thought I had figured out how and had posted my reply, but alas today when I checked it out, it was not there! In response to CarrotStick... This is a problem that we have run into over the years with CarPool. While people coming in the front door (right at the cash register) should have no problem just picking up their food, sometimes the bouncers get overzealous and do not let people in. Technically, no one under the age of 21 is allowed inside at night, but if someone is just popping in to p/u food, that is a different case. This is a topic that has been discussed numerous times with the management of CarPool, and I think that over the last few years some progress has been made, but obviously it is something that still needs to be addressed. I have shared this email with the management of CarPool and hopefully another stride will be made towards resurrecting this issue. Steve, thank you again for the heads up. I don't know if there is a way for me to get CarrotStick's email address so that I can contact him/her directly? I would like to send a gift certificate so that he/she can give us another try! (maybe with i.d. in hand!) Thank you so much and please feel free to contact me with any questions or comments. Best regards, Anne E. McAdoo"

Just an fyi--if any of you happen to live in or near Chicago, I just came across the most amazing little place--called Wow Bao--in Water Tower Place in Chicago. It's something Bruce Cost and Lettuce Entertain You created and it is going to be a huge hit: these soft, squishy white steamed asian buns (they're steamed right in front of you) which I had previously only had with barbecued pork during dim sum--have been turned on their head by Bruce with all sorts of different but delicious fillings--like spicy Mongolian beef, thai curry chicken, kung pao chicken, chicken teriyaki, etc. And they only cost $1.19!!! Bruce also developed the best tasting "fresh ginger" ginger ale I've ever tasted as well. This will go down as one of those concepts where people wonder why wasn't anyone smart enough to bring something like this to the mainstream already?

"all I do is pour in contents, charge, refrigerate, and shake a couple times" Bicycle Lee gives good foam advice. Steve, I think after you fill, charge and shake, try letting it rest in the fridge for a half an hour. Very few foam recipes require 2 charges for the small size unit. That would be too much pressure. You'll also learn you don't want to over agitate, over-shake them, especially with heavy cream based foams. Another tip for service is to leave them inverted, so the mix is against the top and the charge is behind the mix, then you pick it up and foam, no need to shake. Also, some foams have too much fat--to get a better texture you can sometimes cut the cream with a percentage amount of milk. I was given a top-of-the-line Kisag to test against the iSi--it's a nice unit--but Klink it charges similarly to the iSi--with a charge holder which has to be screwed down onto the unit to inject the gas. Both models are sold by JB Prince so they can be had anywhere, even Duluth. I use the iSi and Kisag chargers themselves interchangeably. One thing I've noticed is the Kisag tends to accept its charge better, quicker, than the iSi--though each model tends to wear out a little differently over time, depending on how often you clean them and whether you put them through a dishwasher.

When this thread first started, I rather naively speculated on page one: "Maybe this endorsement means nothing more than BK is doing it just about the best that it can be done given its customer base, price and volume--and surely real reductions in fat in popular BK sandwiches will have more actual influence in more people's lives than any Alice Waters piece in Saveur. What if part of his agreement is that he'll continue to consult, continue to effect positive change? What if the BK support includes charitable contributions for some of these other Bayless interests like Chef's Collaborative?" Too many cynical blows seem to have landed since, and his action seems more disingenuous with time. The Chef's Collaborative hypocrisy is the main sticking point for many people weighing in on this thread. As Shaw summarizes: "Rick Bayless made this choice, he has been well paid, he hardly deserves a pass. Particularly in the case of the Chefs Collaborative people, he has blind-sided them and forced action on their parts -- yet they are taking the time to make a reasoned judgment; hardly a witch hunt. And he certainly doesn't deserve that pass now that he has compounded his poor judgment with disingenuous propaganda that removes any remaining doubt as to his hypocrite-sellout status." Perhaps there's another shoe forced to drop-kick Bayless that we've so far overlooked--how do you think Colman Andrews of Saveur must feel to have one of his consulting editors now hawking Burger King? If the last spots in the upcoming "Saveur 100" issue have not yet been nailed down, could the "Santa Fe Fire Grilled Chicken Baguette" be heralded as the new standard against which we judge all other fast food? Not likely. Nor is it likely Bayless will be commended by Saveur for an elastic interpretation of Chef's Collaborative core principles. Then again, Saveur is advertising-driven as any other magazine. I'm looking forward to the response by Chef's Collaborative and for their sakes wish Bayless had the foresight to resign before taking the BK loot. I fear Mr. Andrews has a difficult decision to make as well. If there turns out to be a moral to this story, might it be that bought and paid for beliefs rarely taste authentic anymore?

Kayakado--very intriguing hypothesis. You're not the only one as curious. In fact, you've opened another avenue of inquiry: were seeds for RB's hypocrisy sown long before BK?

Amazing. That shoots down my hypothesis. I'm gonna e-mail John with this link.

This really surprises me, I eat at that Rocklands branch all the time. Happy customer here telling everyone I know. Which entrance did you go in? And what time were you there? The main entrance to Rocklands faces N. Fairfax Drive--you open those doors and you are AT the cash register to place your order. I've never seen anyone at that front door carding people. Did you park in the lot on the side and enter by the patio--if so, that's into the bar and I can understand carding people there. It's likely you got a doorman with an attitude NOT in the employ of Rocklands, indeed, not connected in any way. I hope you give it another chance. John Snedden has done good work for a long time, I was living in Glover Park in 89/90 when he opened that first store and he'd likely be as upset about your inconvenience as you were.

"the style of coffee at La Colombe seems to appeal to the palate's of French Chefs. That doesn't mean it will necesarily please yours, just because Jean-Marie Lacroix, Alain Ducasse, Jeans-Georges Vongerichten and Daniel Boulud all use it" I agree, I'd also add at least one Spanish chef approves of La Colombe as well. Jose Andres uses the Nizza blend in all of his restaurants at present. And I use it to flavor my "Turkish Coffee Chocolate" dessert at Zaytinya. That said, I too have had some great espresso beverages at Metropolitan Bakery. There are always going to be customer service missteps, I wish all were handled with Todd's approach. Owen, would you consider sharing the run-up toward your business start in a thread on eG? Just a thought.