molto e

Doc, I would not really compare Mugaritz to Gagnaire. Andoni is far more of a minimalist compared to Gagnaire. Your take on Gagnaire's contrasting flavors disagreeing with each other was dead on and I would say Andoni used hushed tones. The platings were beautiful, but if the dish does not taste good was is the point. Chef G at Alinea plates beautifully also, but I did not have one course in two GTMs that did not taste good. I think that when Chef G "staged" at El Bulli that Andoni was still there. The service at Gagnaire was far superior to Mugaritz and it was more of a polished experience-though as you know and I just repeat this at this point so no one is confused-I was extremely disappointed with Gagnaire and would not recommend it. After trying most of the top "molecular gastronomists", I really do not feel that a meal based on "tomfoolery" is the best way to use those techniques. I liked Akelare and Arzaks blending of the two worlds and I hope to see more of that in future meals. I also do not think a meal should last more than 3 hours though I have had some that have far eciplised that and not minded, but enough is enough. Good Eating, Molto E

The first night in San Sebastian, we tried tapas and we went to Casa Gandarias and Bar La Cepa( supposedly Ferran Adria's favorite). My first few shots are of Casa Gandarias, which happened to be the place we enjoyed the most. The vibe in San Sebastian is great, people going from bar to bar for some pinchos and having a mellow good time Next we tried Bar La Cepa, after trying to go to La Cuchara de San Telmo which was highly recommended but not open that evening. The ham is given a quick toast under the salamander before it is served to you The next day after some cafe con leche and some postres in the hotel and a brief rest on la concha it was time for lunch and we headed to Akelare with Chef Pedro Subijana. In 1976, Pedro Subijana and Juan Mari Arzak, the chef at Arzak, attended a conference in Madrid. There, they approached guest speaker Paul Bocuse, who invited them to spend ten days with him in Lyons and learn about nouvelle cuisine. On their return to San Sebastián, Subijana and Arzak organized a group of colleagues in an effort to try to rescue and update traditional Basque cuisine. Soon, almost unaware, they’d initiated the New Basque Cuisine movement. Chef Subijana won Spain’s National Prize for Gastronomy as the best chef in the country more than 20 years ago and has been at the head of nouvelle basque cooking ever since. Akelare is on the highest point in San Sebastian overlooking the Bay of Biscay and has been awarded 2 Michelin stars. I am not sure which is more spectacular the view or the creations of Chef Subijana. We ordered two different tasting menus-Aranori and Bekarki First the Amuses: Sardine with a pepper indigenous to the region/ Sardina Fresca Ahumada con Pesto de Borraja y Guindilla fresca blood sausage in a pastry/ Dama de Morcilla con Berza y Piparras Hamburger of cuttlefish/ Hamburguesa de Sepia con Nube de Gambas Yellow pepper soup/ Soluble de Pimiento First course- Foie Gras with onion, apple and corn/ Foie con Cebolla, con Manzana, con Maiz This was very good, I would liken this to Foie truffles Ostras en ensalada de acelga roja y quinoa-oysters in red swiss chard salad with quinoa The oysters were great, but the swiss chard salad was not to my taste Second Course- Moluscos al Vapor con Borraja/ Steamed Molluscs with borrage Good flavors Xangurro frio con sabor de Mary Germinados/ Sea tasting crab and sprouts very nice dish Third Course- Chipiron confitado, con crema de arroz y albahaca/ marinated squid with rice cream and basil squid was cooked perfectly and I liked the addition of some of the new techniques with this dish Caldo de Pochas, sus gnocchis y pichon/ white bean broth, its gnocchis and pigeon Fourth Course- Rape con jugo de tomate asado y huevas de pimiento/ Monkfish with roasted tomato juice and red pepper roe monkfish was perfect Atun en papel cebolla, con tamarillo/ tuna in onion paper and tamarillo Fifth course La terneradel cocido con zanahoria y chirivia/ Veal shanks slow cooked with carrots and parsnips-carrots are stuffed with white rice Presa de Iberico al Aceite de regaliz, cintas de patatas,y boniato con chufa/ Pork shoulder, marinated tomato, oxalis and onion cube This was the first time that I was served pork shoulder rare and it was very good Dessert Queso de Cabra, ensalada dulce y helado de sesamo blanco/ goat cheese, sweet salad and white sesame ice cream red fruit yogurt Tambor de calanda Akelare biscotti served with coffee Akelare was a fantastic meal, in fact I wanted to go back the next day, but I had to try someplace new. Arzak Restaurant Amuses- Cheese with dates, banana stuffed with fish mousse and puffed rice bacon wrapped orange bean soup-very good Foie wrapped by zucchini-first time that I had this combination and it worked prawn legs delicious squid poached egg with bread and mushroom Squid with Squid ink bread and mango with salsa of squid Rape con hilosy medula Cordero con cafe"cortado"-lamb with a coffee veil and potato with mint El foie de pato a la naranja Pichon con cera de colmena-pigeon with bees wax Ternera mechada con leche de chufas-stewed veal with sweet potatoes tortilla fea de chocolate con lechuga hamgurguesa do chocolate strawberry bubbles naranja con espinacas Arzak was a great dinner and lived up to its reputation. I liked his combination of new technique with well grounded dishes. I would highly recommend Arzak and Akelare. My last lunch in San Sebastian was between Mugaritz and Martin Berastegui. I choose Mugaritz because of Chef Andoni's reputation as the Foie king. Mugaritz is 25 minutes outside of San Sebastian and may have been the best looking restaurant of the trip. I looked at the a la carte menu and the tasting menus and I did not find the one thing that drove me to Mugaritz-FOIE GRAS. I was told because it was summer that Foie is not on the menu because they charcoal it and it gets too hot. I have never been so disappointed with a menu omission in my life. If I was not 25 minutes basically in the middle of nowhere, I would have left, but I stayed. I will say that this meal was not really to my taste and Chef Andoni's last book was "Clorofillia" so perhaps he is going through this stage. frozen vodka with carrot mousse clams in a broth perfumed with grapefruit vegetables, oven roasted and raw, sprouts and greens, wild cultivated, seasoned with browned butter and dusted with seeds and petals. "Emmental" cheese generously seasoned{ the little flower on the rims of the bowl Berro de para} I was instructed to dip the leaves in the broth and finish with the berro de para. After eating the berro de parra, my mouth was tingling for 3-5 minutes and I could not get the taste or feeling to stop with water, wine or bread. Borrage leaves blanched in a shellfish bouillon. Pickled garlic petals and borage flowers Burned and curdled cream with fig shoots and citric fruit powdered with ashes of vegetables and seaweed. At this point, I really regreted not calling a cab when the foie was not on the menu. I really just feel that this style of food was not for me. I am in a camp that does not appreciate burned and curdled cream, in fact when scalding cream or milk in my kitchen, I really try not to burn it. Cod cheekand tripe stew. Crouton-like sopako, tomato and spicy parsley pistou soup Sauted sea cucumber, "vegetable carbon" and sweet shoots accompanied by "garlic casein". I was told to eat the leaves and the vegetable charcoal seperately. Tip when offered vegetable charcoal skip it Rare tuna fillet in a concentrated fishbone stock. Lily shoots, leaves and flowers[ALlium, Tulbaghia] Loin of red mullet "goatfish", toasted and rested. Savory confit of rockfish and saffron. Grains of sea salt Lamb trotter fraised in a salted toffee of lactose and fresh cream. Ragu of beets Well...... French toast soaked in egg yolk, saute browned and caramelized accompanied by a reduced milk ice cream This was the highlight of the meal and was really, really good The thawing of lychees and orange blossoms: A pistachio cake with lychee pulp, crystalized flowers and an ice cream dusting of orange blossoms A cylinder of chocolate ice cream accompanied by a cream of almonds, another chocolate and lime

I had the beans over rice for the first time and would highly recommended them and the new Lo-lo's shirts rock

More from Cyclo Lemon pepper shrimp-whoops forgot I was taking pictures-yum! Spicy beef salad- very good and not to spicy Noodle dish with shrimp and scallops A little something sweet for dessert Justina still will not give me GREEN BEAN recipe on the lookout for former employee with secret. Note to self at the sister restaurant in Tempe perhaps her sister will give up the recipe Molto E

I ate the same menu that Doc did at Pierre Gagnaire, but not on the same day and I would not give him another shot at 400 euros a head. The combinations of flavors were not pleasing and that was unanimous at our table. I would be so bummed to travel to Chez Bras and not enjoy the meal. I do agree that dining at a restaurant once is like playing russian roulette. Molto E

http://www.binkleysrestaurant.com/ the link

Cyclo is one of the best restaurants in the Phoenix area. The flavors are bright and the dishes are very tasty. Cyclo has been featured in Gourmet and Food and Wine magazines and has won "Best New Restaurant"-PhoenixMagazine The starters are great: Lemon pepper shrimp, pork short ribs, spring rolls, spicy thai beef salad, Green Papaya and shrimp salad are all highly recommended Green papaya and shrimp salad I always get this salad when I go to Cyclo Beef Carpaccio with pinapple and rice crisps Banh xeo, a crispy rice-flour crepe stuffed with shrimp and pork, is a really neat dish. You take cilantro and mint leaves and wrap the rice crepe with them and then dip it in the sauce. My absolute favorite dish is the spicy garlic green beans, I find them addicting and my friend feels they are like candy The owner will not tell me how to make them, but I have not given up trying to pry the recipe out of her. She is fantastic and guides every table to enjoy the Cyclo experience and instructs them on the proper way to eat the dishes. The pho-style soups shine here: This one is the one with rare sirloin and it comes with a side bowl of fixins to use as you like I have been instructed to put a little noodle in the spoon and then get the rest of the goodness Another favorite of mine here is the crispy lemongrass chicken After trying Cylco, you will wonder what took you so long to find it. Many of the local chefs have been spotted stuffing their faces at Cyclo and you should also. Molto E

I had the opportunity to dine at Cinc Sentits recently and enjoyed the experience. The Artal family-Jordi/Chef, Amelia and Roser/Maitre and Manager really care about your experience and it is nice to dine in a family operation. They have received a lot of good press including Conde Nast "Hot Tables" and Elle magazine. Tapas shot of warm maple syrup, cream, cava sabayon and rock salt foie gras torchon, violet marmalade and almond crocanti poached quail egg, parmigiano cream and candied lemon peel pan-roasted sardine-torro crisp,toasted pine-nut orzata, melon free range poached egg-cod brandade, piquillopepper sauce, parlsey oil wild mediterranean tuna-smoked bonito broth, shiitake mushrooms, micro shiso porcini crusted rack of lamb-caramelized leek cream, demi glace valdeon-toasted brioche, white truffle honey, pear tahitian vanilla bean panna cotta-strawberry and aceto sorbet, rosewater gelee, pink peppercorn dust toasted hazelnut parfait-chocolate cake, caramelized cocoa nibs, espresso parfait

Doc, We both ate at El Bulli at about the same time but had slightly different meals. We stayed at the Almadraba Park as well and I think it may be the best value that I have stayed at taking into account the facilities and the beauty of Roses. I will try to give the dishes that we both had that were missing their name and add a couple of shots that you did not have. I would call a dinner at El Bulli,dinner theatre-award winning. I felt the craftsman there are at another level than most of the other "Molecular Gastronomists". The service was incredible, we also had Felix and his team behind him was flawless and did not miss a beat all night with 33 some courses that is fantastic. I am in awe of Mr. Garcia as he knew exactly who was dining in the restaurant that evening and the stories that went along with the reservations. I felt it like getting an audience with the "Wizard of Oz", to be able to have the opportunity to dine at El Bulli. My first picture is taken from outside the restaurant looking through the window into the kitchen. Ferran sits at a table with notes over looking the main line and he is constantly brought things to taste. To his left is another room in the kitchen, that Picture has the Thermomixer in it and to his right is another room. I did not wish to bother Ferran as he was tasting so I did not take a photo with him. I have a couple of photos of the inside of the restaurant and the centerpiece on the table The tarragon concentrate that is delivered on the spoon for the Caipirinha-Nitro causes a numbing sensation for about a minute. My meal at Alinea ended with crispy tarragon. A shot at the end of the Caipirinha-nitro as the mix has frozen We were presented the next couple of courses at once and they were called snacks. This was the highlight of the meal for me and showed the humorous side to the dishes of El Bulli. A shot of the Muelle de aceite de oliva virgen as it is delivered-spiral oil disco de mango y oliva negra Peanut Marshmallows As most of these courses were being delivered, we were laughing and gasping. oreo de oliva negra con crema doble cheese popcorn arlette iberica Melon cru/melon-lyo con hierbas frescas y alemendras tiemas a la pimienta Merengue seco de remolacha[beetroot] al keffir y carmelo fisherman caramelo de aceite de calabaza-pumpkin oil caramel nube de palomitas-popcorn cloud-very cool caviar sferico de melon-with passion fruit seeds Brioche al vapor-steamed brioche with mozzarella and air of roses. I liked the dish minus the air of roses ostra con emulsion de jamon y su perla-oyster with pearl and ham consumme To this point in the meal we did not have anything that we did not like. I had some of the same dishes as Doc and some different, but I did not post them if I did not have a personal comment on them. The Ice 2005 and the "Crazy Salad"-we were told to eat those dishes in a particular way and I enjoyed them both. mehillones de roca con gargillou de algas y hierbas frescas-rock mussels with seaweed. We were instructed to eat a mussel and then a piece of seaweed alternating them sufle/coulant de maiz al maiz-corn souffle with corn stock and clams Terroso-potato consumme-delicious, truffle crepe-yum, mushrooms, marshmallow, miso ventresca de cabala en escabeche de pollo con cebolla Bogavante al natural Morphings Teppan nitro-frozen cream with coffee caviar chocolate goodness Goodbye El Bulli Style-The hands are on round bowls that are dropped on the table and they wave goodbye and inside one is some candy Wow, Molto E

Doc, That looked like a tasty meal. What was in the eggs? Molto E

John, Thanks for the scoop, as you know I feel that is deserved. I bought Frechon's cookbook available in English at the hotel and feel it is one of the best in my collection, the name is Taste Sensations "70 Once In A Lifetime Gourmet Experiences". My friend just called up the hotel and they patched him through to Raphael and he filled the order for the cookbook for him. The pastry chef Gilles Marchal has a great book also, but just in French. The pictures in both the cookbooks are beautiful and Frechon gives his theories in his and it is just great. Molto E

Thank you, I only wish I could have eaten there one more time before I left. Molto E

That is Bresse chicken being cooked sous-vide. I do not think that they used dry ice while the chicken was being served, because I did not see it. That is dry ice with the dessert amuse of peach sorbet with the macaroons. I ate at Gagnaire and Le Cinq while I was in Paris and though the service was good at both, Frechon and Le Bristol blew them out of the water. Molto E

Here are some shots of Le Bristol kitchen of Michelin 2 star Chef Eric Frechon[give him his 3 star already],the kitchen is staffed by a revolving crew of 80. The other pictures are a demonstration of Pommes Souffles by Chef Franck Leroy

Nikki B highlighted Lo-Lo's in this months Phoenix Magazine. Molto E

Doc, We had the exact same tasting. I would say the dining room is luxurious and the wait staff excellent. We were fortunate enough to have a english speaking waiter. The food in our view was far below 3 star expectations. I thought that the actual lobster may have been the best cooked piece of lobster that I had ever eaten, but beyond that I was not left with any other positives until the dessert courses. I get your reference to the black bean soup and I did enjoy the taste of that part of that dish, but as I remember it was a very small amount of that liquid in the dish. His platings indeed were very nice though I agree with you completely no comparison to our meal at El Bulli. By your scoring system: 3 good, one in the middle and 4 "clunkers" with that kind of score that should not garner the big bucks that Gagnaire receives. Molto E

Moby, That is the kitchen from Jamin and he told me that was the kitchen that JR designed 20 sum years ago. They do not have a walk in because everything comes in fresh that day which I found cool. Molto E

I was aware of the accolades that Chef Guichard has earned since he has taken over Jamin in 1996 and after eating lunch there, I can say that this is a restaurant not to be missed. This is restaurant that is classical French with a slight Asian influence. Amuse-Tuna tartare with balsamic and chili oil This was a delicious amuse, I do not recall ever having balsamic with tuna tartare, but it worked perfectly Gazpacho with avocado mousse Ravioli of langustine with chanterelles The pasta was cooked well and the langustine was perfectly done. Seared foie gras with peach and green grape juices Most of the Foie I encountered was a cold preparation, so a perfectly seared Foie was a delight Filet of Brill with summer vegetables cooked a la grec The Brill was cooked perfectly and the vegetables were perfect Rack of lamb with peas a la francais with bacon[Pyrenean milk lamb] The lamb was juicy and the peas were out of this world Cheese Dessert Amuse-Roasted fig, vanilla ice cream Dessert Cart The kitchen originally designed by Robuchon 20 some years ago, wow was he ahead of his time. This was a great experience at Jamin. The service was flawless and extremely well versed in the cuisine. The food was well balanced and tasty. Jamin is a must if you are in Paris. Molto E

I walked into lunch at the Bristol knowing that I about to experience the cuisine of a 2 star chef, but not knowing this was to be one of the best meals of my life. My first contact with the top notch talent Le Bristol has at every level was at the Maitre D post with the Directeur du Restaurant Raphael Courant. He immediately made one feel welcome [even if one did not know that jacket was required ] and he sized my jacket size up with his hands causing my group to laugh as he ordered one up for me on the phone. Raphael was great, welcoming us warmly and presenting Le Bristol to us in an exciting fashion. He had worked at the Hotel Crillon before landing at Le Bristol and he is the best host that I have ever encountered, in fact I do not recall a host making this great of an impression on me ever. The restaurant of Le Bristol has a Summer and Winter room, the Summer room has great views of the garden and offers indoor and outdoor seating. The menu is divided up as follows: Chef Frechon's seasonal suggestions, ala carte, Summer flavors and dessert by pastry chef Gilles Marchal-seasonal fruits, "Grand Cru"chocolate and classics. Raphael offered us an Apertif and out came the Champagne cart The amuse The amuse was great parmesan marshmallow, salmon, foie bite and I do not remember what was in the cone. The bread selection was amazing We choose to order a la cart as I had been dreaming of Bresse chicken for months. Our starters: Farm hen egg-soft boiled, green peas with chorizo, Indian cress flowers, roast sobrassada. Delicious Macaronis with truffle-stuffed with artichoke and duck foie gras, gratinated with matured Parmesan cheese. This was amazing, why was mac and cheese not this good before? Fog legs-pan fried with garlic and parsley, gnocchi Tandoori style and rocket leaves juice-great dish Blue lobster-freshened green apple and white radish, aromas of coriander and honey. Look at the claw, perfectly cracked in half and topped with aspic, what craftsmanship!!! Entrees: Farmed "Bresse" hen for 2 cooked in a pig's bladder and "vin jaune", ravioli stuffed with truffles Then after the legs have been finished in the kitchen so the white meat is not overcooked they are presented. Traditional farm house bacon grilled over a wood fire, roast charlotte potatoes, wild herb salad, mustard seeds sauce I missed a shot of the pork belly being presented on the grill tableside This was amazing, though the salad looks simple it is perfectly dressed and the charlotte potatoes rock "Challandais" duck breast roast with spices, pineapple ravioli, grated mango and lime, souffleed potatoes This was a Bresse pigeon that went by that was photo worthy served honey glazed with shredded macaroon biscuits, stewed onions and cumin Say cheese: Dessert Amuse: "Raspberries and Strawberries"-a few creations to sample and discover Crunchy praline and Criollo chocolate shortbread coffee flavored ice cream and frothy caramel sauce Hot souffle of pure Caribbean chocolate ice cream with Chartreuse liquor, stewed morello cherries Peach poached in verbena crunchy meringe cakes, iced strawberry sorbet A little something with your coffee perhaps[i was the only one that had a little space left] This was one of the most memorable meals of my life. Le Bristol led by Chef Eric Frechon, Chef Franck Leroy, Pastry Chef Gilles Marchal and Directeur du Restaurant Raphael Courant provide an unforgettable experience.The next day we were treated to a cooking lesson by Chef Franck Leroy and a peek into the Kitchen of Chef Eric Frechon-soon to follow

Bux, He has said that the camera thing is related to not wishing people to see his platings and it has nothing to do with other diners experience. The funny thing is that besides El Bulli, I have never been in a restaurant with more people with cameras and all the cameras were for your 3 minute photo opp with Pierre Gagnaire. The guy looks like a million bucks, like I said he is the Mick Jagger of chefs. Molto E

Bux, Gagnaire was the only place that did not allow pictures while I was over there. The price of our meal had nothing to do with displeasure at Gagnaire, we just really felt the flavors did not work that night[ we had dinner with someone that did not know of our Gagnaire experience and said the same thing about Sketch and he had just returned from London]. My price comment had to do with the excellent production that El Bulli puts on and the incredible sight of the check at the end of the meal being so reasonable. Molto E

Doc, I enjoyed El Bulli as well and I am surprised you liked Gagnaire though I really do not follow your train of thought. I ate at Gagnaire with two chefs and all of us felt the flavors did not work and it was the disappointment of our trip and at 400 euros a head compared with 200 euros a head for El Bulli it was a total rip-off. Also of note El Bulli has no issue with photos being taken of the food whereas Gagnaire does not allow it out of fear of being copied. I consider Gagnaire the"Mick Jagger" of chefs and appearently he does not have the confidence that Ferran has in letting others attempt his dishes because bottom line-they can't Molto E

Mystery picture? Answer revealed tomorrow, just back from Europe and my post on Le Bristol deserves a clear head. This meal still with me and I hope it shall be with me until I dine there again. I do have one knock against this meal at all. Molto E

Ignoring the sources of ingredients, which involve questions of Third World Poverty and food miles, how we actually prefer our food to be prepared and served is one of the few decisions we make whose outcome harms no one. In many ways, I'm a compulsive moralist, but where cuisine is concerned, I acknowledge no obligation except my own pleasure. The panoply of Paris bistros gives me more joy per euro than any other place I know. If I lived there, I might become bored with it--perhaps after half a century. ← John, I can assure you that you would have received no pleasure in what we were served at ZE. Whether this meal was in Paris, Dallas or a high school cafeteria, I would not have enjoyed it-in fact tater tots in the high school cafeteria can be quite good. Many chefs preach taste, taste, taste prior to sending food out and whatever palate felt this good has a different compass than mine Molto E

John, I would love to try M.Guerard's steak cooked in foie fat and wish I would have had the opportunity to try some of the other talents that you mentioned, but my meal at Ze could not measure up with their talent. I know you did not have the type of experience that my group had there, but it was not acceptable on many levels. Whether or not one pushes the culinary envelope was it tasty-NO, was the service good-No and would I go back to give them another try-WHY. At the end of the day what ever style of the chef did we find the taste good and we did not here. This chef has too many divergent flavors on the plate. The main character gets upstaged by a bunch of supporting flavors rather than complimented by them. Molto E