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I'm in total agreement with that, Marc. His new place should not have to carry the albatross of Gilt around. It would be similar to going up to the plate with an 0-2 count with the guy on the mound firing 99 mph fastballs - little hope of success.

WD-50, Annisa, Cru, Blue Hill at Stone Barns - worth the drive or train, EMP - any of those will put one in the centerfield bleachers.

OK - but don't ever let that happen again.

Excellent report SE. Did you happen to notice the bottle prices of wine? You are certainly correct is saying the wine (by the glass) and drink prices are over the top. But the food prices seem fair based on your description - certainly in line with other NYC places striving for the same level.

True Nathan. And I've had four-star meals (the quality and consistency were always the best IMO) there in the past. I always tempered my thoughts by saying the ambiance isn't what a four-star restaurant is expected to be by the Times standard. I think I started a thread a few years back about places serving four-star food in less than stellar environments and the Tasting Room led my list. Since I haven't been to the new place, I don't know what I would say today.

Like you SE, I'm not a fan of the star system because I don't think it accurately reflects the current restaurant scene. And until the Times and others make the necessary adjustments, it will remain meaningless in my opinion. As far as the Tasting Room is concerned, I haven't eaten at the new location, so I can't comment. I was a big fan of the the small setup on First Street. I had meals there that were better than some places rated higher. I certainly thought the old place served top quality food rivaled by few in the city. But I also understand the cramped and very casual atmosphere turned some people completely off. And from reading some eGullet comments, that detracted from their food experience. The ambiance never bothered me and that's probably the reason why I ranked it higher than most. I hope the new, larger surroundings doesn't take away something from the food. I've seen that happen in other instances - Sparks being a recent example.

I understand what you're saying SE, but that's why we celebrate "vive la difference" (sp?). I totally enjoy the laid back service at EMP, while the formal service at Per Se was the only problem I had there. The hushed tones of PS reminded me of my altar boy days when I was serving a funeral mass - eveything seemed so solemn. I was waiting for someone to start a rendition of "Amazing Grace." That's the type of service I totally dislike. Everyone has their preferences.

The perfect individual Beef Wellington with the tenderloin medium rare for one and medium for another, etc, with the duxelle and pate moist and crust deep brown and crisp. It's labor intensive, but one of the world's great dishes when prepared properly (and one of the worst when not). Hint: prepare the sauce ahead and place in on the plate, not the pastry.

And I understand your point of view Bryan. It's fun to debate though, especially when the other opinion is respected. Reasonable people can disagree - that's what makes horse racing work. And I totally agree with you regarding Bond Girl's issue - I think our posts crossed on that. It could simply be a generation gap thing - maybe I'm just mellowing with age. (Except for the night at Gallagher's )

I agree Robert, but that's not nearly as important as napkin folding or not. That was humanitarian and EMP deserves the highest kudos for acting as they did. That's a lot more important and reveals the personality of the restuarant and its staff more than any napkin folding ritual.

A lot has been written on this thread about the service and room at EMP. I've dined there a few times and I think both are of the highest level necessary for a top restaurant experience. My point is folding a napkin or anything of that nature would not heighten my dining experience, not would not doing it detract. We get caught up in the service sometimes and miss the food elements. While I realize it's just an opinion, I don't need or want to be pampered. I just want the best example of what the chef has to offer. Hell, they could even toss the napkin over my shoulder for all that it matters to me. PS - the intriguing part of napkin culture occurs at the end of the meal - ever notice how many people drop their napkin on the floor as they're getting up and just walk away? And for the record, most times when I leave the table in the middle of the meal, I fold my napkin instead of leaving on crumpled on the chair or table - just a habit.

There's an easy solution to the napkin folding issue - don't use the napkin. Just leave it folded and use a sleeve - yours or anyone that's available at the time. Sorry - I wouldn't notice if someone ever re-folded my napkin or not. I'm there to enjoy the food, not to worry about "Emily Postisms." Sometimes, in my opinion, we get caught up in this service issue to an "unhealthy" degree. If we're there to notice if napkins are re-folded, if water glasses are filled every 2.7 seconds, if the servers' hair is mussed, if they fail to wipe our reading glasses when a smudge appears, if they leave a crumb on the table after the required vacuuming ritual, if they don't click their heels and bow when asked a question - then we're missing an important element of the restaurant experience - it's the food, damn it - the food!!!! PS - I don't want anyone cleaning my crumbs before I leave the restaurant - they're my crumbs and I want them!!!!

Well, I never.... There is no way I will ever return to EMP again. How could they possibly not re-fold a napkin?? Simply heresy. When I was there they re-folded my napkin while I was at the table. A waiter walked by, swooshed it from my lap, re-folded and placed it on the table. Every restaurant should re-fold napkins at least seven times during dinner, whether the person is sitting at the table or not. I think Im going to start an organized boycott until every napkin is folded several times in several types of "knots."

I have it from reliable sources the rodents have separate organizations as well.

There definitely was a time when this was the case, however many arrests and scandals later it doesn't seem to be. ← Steve, the only thing that's changed - it's more subtle these days.

There goes my secret identity - again!

First of all, a little vermin in your food is good for you - it helps build strong bodies three ways... Secondly, pay health inspectors what they want and you get to pick your own score. To quote someone who wrote most of his work a few years back "... much ado about nothing..."

I've had the double cannister Cuisinart for about two years - never made a bad ice cream, never had a problem with freezing. It's great. By the way - whatever ice cream recipe you use, eliminate the eggs. There's no reason for them and the ice cream isn't as smooth. Eggs in ice cream is like cream soda in wine - yecch!

I had a movie star husband once, but then I had the operation.

I know I'll be on pins and needles until it comes out.

My wife and I made a quick, unexpected trip up last Friday without any reservations for dinner or lodging - my favorite place, the Chestnut Tree Inn, was booked solid. Got a last minute room at Longfellows and after the races decided to have dinner there, since I wasn't in the mood to go downtown (and the chef at the Wine Bar has left for The Lodge). Got an 8:30 reservation and had a surprisingly, very enjoyable meal. And as a bonus a nice, complimentary breakfast the next morning. It certainly wasn't a meal for the ages, but very pleasant and their wine list was good and quite reasonably priced. I would recommend for simple fare and a modest price point. Certainly very good during the racing season. Dinner for two, two bottles of wine, lodging for the night, newspaper at door at 6:00am, breakfast and tips - $400. That's a steal for Saratoga in August. But the next evening was Stone Barns - and that was a meal for the ages (see that thread for comments.)

I should add it encourages dinner conversation as well. When I did it as part of a six-top, the whole table began to guess what I would be served. Most of the time it's the least picked item(s). I don't know why that is, but it appears to work out that way. And I almost never guess correctly. Pan - most dishes list everything that comes with the order. So just eliminate the "contraband" items from the choices you give the server.

Recently I've taken to ordering "on the blind" in restaurants that don't offer a tasting menu or when I'm not in the mood for a tasting menu. And it has worked well every time to date. I look at the menu and select two or three items from the appetizers and entrees. I then ask the server to select one of those choices for me, but don't tell. I want to be surprised. It creates a little excitement and gives an opportunity for the server to be a little creative - seems they relish the empowerment. What's very interesting - the servers rarely pick the most expensive item. The last time I tried this was at Craft and both the appetizer and entree that showed up were the least expensive of my choices. Restaurants are always attempting to make the dining experience more exciting, so why can't patrons? I think this is a great way to dine. Does anyone do the same?

I don't understand why there appears to be an undercurrent of hostility within this thread. If I was part of the ownership of CB, I would be thrilled at the accolades the DS has received and work a bit harder to improve the other side of the menu. But the business it should bring in on the DS alone, will most likely keep them in good stead until the regular menu catches up. If they really want to grab hold of a novel idea, then CB could become strictly a world-class DS destination and drop the other menu. I'm sure people would be lining up out the doors.

Those were his wives - maybe not at the same time, but certainly at one time or another. They were just trying to "divvy" up the money.