pam claughton

Marlene, This may sound like a silly question, but why is it necessary to tie the ribs? Your Bon Appetit adaption looks amazing, and I want to try it. I've never made ribs before. Is it because they fall apart too much? Thanks! Pam

How about some stuffed mushrooms? or this super easy, ridiculously good mushroom crostini with blue cheese and proscuitto that you can make ahead, then spread on slices of baquettes and heat for 8 minutes in the oven. You can make it the night before even, and it seems to improve the flavor. http://efoodie.typepad.com/efoodie/2005/03...cheese_mus.html That is my version of it. Here is the link on epicurious, for the original, where you'll see loads of rave reviews as well. http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/recipe_views/views/107462 Pam

This has been an interesting thead to read through. I tend to agree and prefer to see people's real names. It tends to make for more interesting discussions frankly, when I can take into consideration not only people's viewpoint's, but also their backgrounds, if relevant to the subject at hand. Having said that, I can also appreciate the needs of those who do prefer anonymity for safety or work/privacy issues. That leads to a most interesting comment at the bottom of Michael's last post, "I’ve never argued that people should be forced to reveal themselves (this stalking issue is unnerving), but perhaps there are some instances in which managemnt might require people to use real names. Those who for whatever reasons wish or need to maintain anonymity would have to watch from the sidelines in those rare instances. Anonymity comes with a price too." I think this is something worth discussing. The Psaltis thread for instance could have been deemed, 'no anonymous posting allowed', based on the content. When you are discussing a person or restaurant and the issue is controversial, as in this instance, I don't think it is fair to comment anonymously, and to hide behind that wall of protection. In this scenario, who you are does become relevant, depending on what you are saying, and if in fact, you are a shill, or close friend of the person under fire, or enemy or whatever. Full disclosure is the only fair thing. So, maybe it could be looked at on a case by case, thread by thread basis, as needed. And I do agree with those who have said that posting under your own name, tends to raise the level of discussion, keeps it more professional, or at least makes people think twice before posting something inflammatory. Pam

I am him too. I have one All-Clad LTD saucepan, and I swear, everytime I wash it up after using it, I admire it! It is so nice and thick, and I love the way it cleans and is so smooth and shiny inside. I want more, and dream of having a whole collection of All-Clad someday. I feel the same way about my LeCrueset soup pot and small dutch oven. Love them, and want lots more. It's an addiction of sorts. Nice to know I'm not alone! Pam

I'm enjoying your blog so far, and fell in love with Cashew. He's so cute. He reminds me of my much missed kitty, Bailey, who was also enormous, 23 pounds, and long, and orange/yellow. He was a sweetheart. So, here's a baseball question for you...are you a White Sox fan? Enjoying their trip to the world series? Or a Cubs fan? Or neither! Looking forward to reading more. Pam

When I think of a romantic dinner, a few restaurants always come to mind. What they have in common is excellent food (that's a given), soft lighting, background music that you don't really notice, cozy fabric covered chairs/sofas that are not too close to other tables. What elevates the experience is service. If I want a romantic and special dinner, excellent service makes all the difference. These are restaurants that welcome you warmly (even if they don't know you at all), and treat you as a cherished regular, who know the menu well, and offer suggestions when asked, who pace the meal well, and don't rush courses. One restaurant I love especially because it manages to be elegant and comfy at the same time. Last time I went there, we sat at a table for two that had kitty cornered sofa chairs that were covered in a gorgeous, plush fabric. The food was outstanding, and I can't wait to return. That restaurant was Mistral in Boston. A few others that immediately come to mind are Clio, No. 9 Park, and Radius. All great special occasion restaurants. What makes all of these places so special is that they pay attention to even the tiniest detail, so that the overall experience is effortless, and always delicious. Pam

Of those four, I'm not familiar with Grill 16, so can't comment there. Skippy's and Clancy's are local pub type restaurants. Food is good, but nothing fancy or gourmet like. Roobar is excellent! I may be biased because I have a friend working there, but there menu is definitely more 'fine dining' than pub like. Also, The Binnacle in Orleans and The Nauset Beach Club are both excellent. This is probably getting to you too late...but am curious to hear where you ended up going, and what you thought? Pam

There is a seafood pasta dish in this book that I made 3 times in a one month period. I think it is one of the best things I have ever made - very easy and so tasty. ← Which seafood pasta recipe was it?

How would the recipes in it be different from Julia Child's? ← From what I understand the book is about the year she spent making every recipe in Julia Child's cookbook. It's a memoir of how she did...evidently not all the recipes turned out so well, which is half the fun. There's a thread here on it, I believe. I never followed the blog, but heard about the book, and it sounded like something I'd enjoy reading. Reviews are good too.

My favorite cookbook this year, It's About Time, is from one of my favorite restaurants in Boston, Radius. It is considered one of the top restaurants in the city, the service is exquisite, the food amazing. I've never had a bad meal, and have usually always been wowed, whether it's for martini's and a mussel appetizer at the bar, or a foie gras tasting menu. I took my mother to that, and it was one of our most memorable meals ever. It was the first time she'd had foie gras. She was treated like a queen, and savored every minute. The menu is modern French but an Italian influence sneaks in, especially for the occasional pasta dish, which the chef, Michael Schlow demonstrated at a cooking class I attended on site. It was a simple recipe, and is in the book. He also owns two other restaurants in Boston, an Italian one, Via Matta, and a seafood one, Great Bay. The book is called, It's About Time, Great Recipes for Everyday Life. Some of the recipes are simpler dishes that he cooks at home, others are 'greatest hits' from all three restaurants. A theme of the book is the effect that time has on food, and he believes in many instances that more flavor is coaxed from food when it is cooked longer, at lower temperatures. I attended a charity dinner the other night, and Radius was one of the featured restaurants, along with No. 9 Park, and Pigalle, all great places. The dishes featured by Radius are also in the cookbook, which prompted me to buy it on the spot, since I was planning to anyway. We had slow roasted Salmon with cabbage, bacon and dill, and the most amazing pork dish which had an exotic sweet spicy flavor from a mix of honey, curry, and other spices. The broccolini served with it had a similar unusual taste, which reminded me of Chinese five spice and orange. The cookbook explained that the broccolini recipe actually uses an interesting condiment called togarashi, which is made from Thai chiles, orange zest, white and black sesame seeds, fennel seeds, and hemp. It can be found in Asian markets often under the name schichimi togarashi. I actually blogged about it, and posted the pork recipe if you want to read further about it. Some of the memorable dishes in the cookbook that I've either already had or are just dying to make, include, Veal Milanese Basil marinated tomatoes on crunchy eggplant Steamed Prince Edward Island Mussels, the broth is great with bread Pappa al Pomodoro Mango and Spiced vinaigrette using togarashi condiment Spicy Shrimp Salad Red Wine Braised Brisket Orzo Gratin with Black Olives, Tomato Confit, and Goat Cheese Seared Foie Gras with Hazelnuts and Mango Loin of Pork "A l'Apicius"...this is the one I've raved about Brioche with soft-scrambled eggs and caviar A cookbook I'm looking forward to getting soon is the Julie/Julia one, based on her blog. Pam

"1) Spectacularly luxurious. Food is not the object here. Flawless and virtually obsequious service is. The food should be good, but the service needs be perfect. Price is no object. " For exceptional service, either Au Jourd'Hui or L'espalier will do nicely. If this is a business meeting, I would go with Au Jourd'Hui, which has the advantage of also being inside the Four Seasons. L'Espalier is wonderful, but feels more like a romantic datelike environment. For Hip, I also recommend Juries, great location, phenomenal lobster bisque, and has a Euro feel to it. "3) Excellent food, mid-high price in an atmosphere that's more restaurant than club. A place where you don't have to yell to be heard. Any and all types of cusine welcome (this is the recco for me)." No. 9 Park, Clio, Mistral, and Radius. These are my favorite places in Boston, and there's always the North End, particularly Rabia's on Salem Street, where they have the most amazing homemade seafood ravioli's served with roasted shellfish, like a bouillabaise kind of thing. "Finally, if there are any good low-rent joints not too far from the 4 Seasons -- from ethnic to greays spoon, feel free to chime in." Cottonwood Cafe, for fun Mexican and Parrish Cafe for good, creative sandwiches, many unusual combinations inspired by local chefs....both are near the Four Seasons/Boylston area.

I have two favorite ways, both super simple. One was an experiment that I thought would be horrible, that turned out amazingly good, and I've since made it many times. I smeared a bit of good mustard, like a country dijon across the top of a salmon filet, then drizzled a healthy amount of honey on top of that, and then reached for the slivered almonds.....which were gone. So, I substituted a homemade, simple granola of oats, butter honey that I had plenty of. I had this all on a sheet of tin foil which I gathered up at top, and then baked at about 350 for 15-20 minutes or so. It was so good. The granola melted into the honey mustard mix and created a great slightly sweet and crunchy topping which perfectly offset the salmon. Another way that I often do it is to simply spread mustard on top, pour balsamic vinegar over that, add chopped tomato and onion and lots of rosemary, and then bake in the oven. The mix of flavors is great with salmon. I do it the same way as above, wrapped in foil and baked. Another really delicious way that takes a bit longer, but is elegant and worth it is from Molly Stevens Braising cookbook and involves leeks and bacon and lots of pinot noir that cooks down into a wonderful sauce. Pam

My mother was always a meat lover and often cooked it for us at home. But even though I vaguely recall her ordering it cooked medium rare when we were at restaurants, for some reason she was unable to do that at home, and all of our meat, steaks, burgers, etc. were cooked until they were brownish gray all the way through...totally well done. I assumed that all meat was like this, since it was all I knew, and hated it....until I was 20, and waitressing during a college summer break. I went out to dinner with a few co-workers to a great steakhouse. The other three girls all ordered prime rib medium rare, and since I'd never had prime rib, I ordered the same, though I expected not to love it. Well, it was the first time I experienced pink beef, and I was blown away at how delicious and completely different it was from well done. I've been a meat lover ever since. Pam

What a beautiful picture, I can almost taste the fennel. My favorite way is to use it is in soup, especially escarole, white bean soup with Italian sausage, which has fennel in it, and I usually add a bit more. It's easy to whip up at home, and is delicious, low-fat comfort food. Here's the recipe I use, http://efoodie.typepad.com/efoodie/2005/03...ole_soup_w.html Pam

According to the article, he had $8,000 on him that day, after accepting the $200 for the table. Sounds like business was very good indeed. Pam

It was almost fifteen years ago that I visited New Orleans. I was 25 at the time, young and excited to be going to Mardi Gras for the first time. I'd met Nicole a few years earlier, when we'd waitressed together at a lobster house on the Cape. She was a Louisiana girl, and when her relationship with a Cape native ended abruptly, she moved home. By the time I visited her, in her home in Crowley, LA, a few hours South of New Orleans, she was 22 and an old married lady with two kids. Everywhere I went with Nicole, people asked me, "where's your husband?" It was assumed that I had one. In Louisiana, to not have one, at age 25 was quite shocking. Nicole had a grandmother who lived in a tidy area on the outskirts of New Orleans. While her husband babysat, Nicole, her cousin Mary, and I drove into the city, and fell into the magic of New Orleans and Mardi Gras. We had no plans, other than to eventually make our way to Grandma's house to sleep. Fortunately, Grandma was away for the week. She would have been less than enthused to find her house full of people, which it was, by the time we ended up there. In the meantime, we explored and savored the city. We drank multi-colored tall hurricane drinks, and walked from bar to bar, collecting strings of beads, and laughing at what some people would do to get them. We watched in fascination as people in front of us stopped at one of the many helium vendors, and paid money to essentially do drugs on the street. We ate red beans and rice out of little paper cups, sold from street vendors for a few dollars. We danced, and sang along with the band, and met people, and somehow they ended up following us home to Grandma's. The next day, when everyone went their separate ways, we returned to the French Quarter, and started anew, energized by rich chicory coffee and sweet beignets from Cafe Du Monde. Mardi Gras, and New Orleans was a blur that lasted for several days, and etched itself in my mind forever. The music, the food, the comraderie, and the feel and smell of New Orleans is indescribable. I've been saying for the past 15 years that I couldn't wait to go back. But I haven't yet, and that is something that I truly regret. My heart goes out to this city, and I wish them a speedy recovery. Pam

Well, the ultimate solution would be to pay servers a set wage that they would be happy with. However, can that implemented? Where will the money come from to pay that wage? Will it fall on the restaurant owner who will then have to raise prices? Or will it go into a 'service charge'? I still say it is an issue of supply and demand. Servers expect and will demand a certain level of income. If they don't receive it, if wages are too low they will seek other work, just like your example in Europe, which is also a supply and demand issue as illustrated. Long hours/low pay, why not do something else? Well, that is how it is with servers. They will do something else, unless the money is there. I don't know what the solution is, but a precedent has been set that servers expect to make a certain amount. It will be hard to take that away from them, and not lose something in the process. Pam

There's still so many cheeses I haven't tried, but a recent discovery that just blew me away was Taleggio. It's creamy, a bit firmer than brie, a hint of sweetness, and just enough stinkiness to make it really interesting. A wedge of Taleggio, a big glass of a lusty spanish red, and I'm in heaven. Runner up is blue, just about any, especially if melted with mushrooms and prosciutto and served on a baguette. My local whole foods is doing a tasting of goat cheeses that I'm looking forward to as well. Pam

In a perfect world, your scenario is appealing, that all workers would be equally paid and would equally work hard and enjoy their work. Unfortunately, it is not reality. The reason servers make more money is supply and demand. If you tried to hire servers at a significantly lower wage, you would not be able to do it....not if you wanted quality service. With servers, it really is all about the money, it certainly is not because they love to wait on people, unlike most chefs who do derive more pleasure from their work. The greatest pleasure from waiting tables comes at the end of the shift, when you count the money. No one has really mentioned what the new division of tips will be at Per se, does anyone know if it is really significantly less to the servers? I read somewhere that tips averaged 22% at Per Se, so already that's 2% missing right off the bat, with the new service charge being implemented at 20%. It could be offset though, by people tipping additionally, which good tippers will generally do anyway. Pam

Two thoughts on this: 1. Knowing of a few servers who quit and hearing from these same disgruntled servers of more doesn't exactly constitute convincing evidence that there has been a wholesale or statistically meaningful exodus of talent from Per Se's FOH -- or, indeed, whether this turnover is meaningfully different from their usual tunover. 2. Were I in Keller's shoes and some servers quit because they had a hunch that their wages might be less over a year, I'd be glad to see them go. ← You'd be glad to see them go? Why? If they were excellent servers who simply could no longer afford to work there, you'd be glad to see them leave? Sorry, but I see nothing wrong with leaving because your pay is cut. That is not a reflection on the employee as being less than loyal, it's an individual choice as to whether or not they can afford to take a pay cut. ← loyalty? again, (and i remember, you've been a waitress) what'r you new?? whether anyone would like to admit it or not, it might be that working for TK & LC is worth the hassle of the tip pool. OR that this tip pool not only provides the FOH staff w/ insurance, but ALSO the BOH. sharing the wealth in such a prestegious (sorry about my spelling) establishment should be seen as pretty durn noble... ← I think you missed my point. Which is simply that choosing not to participate in the new system does not mean you lack loyalty. Also, health insurance should not come out of tips...it should be paid for by the restaurant. If many lesser restaurants can afford to do it, surely a more expensive one like Per Se can as well. Bottom line is Per Se is just another restaurant, not the Holy Grail. There are other great restaurants that one could work at that would not require a significant pay cut for the privelege. Again, just my opinion. Interesting to note I think that most of those who see nothing at all wrong with this new division of tips, have never actually worked for those tips...as a server. If you had, you'd likely have a very different take on this.

Two thoughts on this: 1. Knowing of a few servers who quit and hearing from these same disgruntled servers of more doesn't exactly constitute convincing evidence that there has been a wholesale or statistically meaningful exodus of talent from Per Se's FOH -- or, indeed, whether this turnover is meaningfully different from their usual tunover. 2. Were I in Keller's shoes and some servers quit because they had a hunch that their wages might be less over a year, I'd be glad to see them go. ← You'd be glad to see them go? Why? If they were excellent servers who simply could no longer afford to work there, you'd be glad to see them leave? Sorry, but I see nothing wrong with leaving because your pay is cut. That is not a reflection on the employee as being less than loyal, it's an individual choice as to whether or not they can afford to take a pay cut.

Many restaurants already offer health insurance without cutting into servers tips. What is wrong with Per Se's scenario is that they are having their pay cut, but they are still expected to perform at the same level. That is not a team approach, and I see quite a bit wrong with it. They are not being rewarded for a job well done, they are being punished with a decrease in income.

I agree for the most part, but think much will depend on how big of a pay cut they will end up taking. If it's too big, it may not make sense for them to stick around, if they could do better elsewhere. Hard to say, am sure it varies with each individual. I can't imagine any of the servers are too thrilled about it though or buy into the idea that it will create more of a 'team environment'.

what'r you? new?? (sorry, i just had to say it... no malice intended...) french laundry, not to mention chez panise (and a gazillion others), have been operating this way for a while now & they're still getting 4 stars (for service as well as food). ← No! Hardly new. But you must admit Per Se, and Chez Panisse and a handful (hardly a gazillion) of others have taken this approach are all high end restaurants, actually more like the pinnacle, the very best restaurants. Chez Panisse and The French Laundry are also located in areas where they stand out as one of the best options for a server to work. In NYC, there are many, many other options for professional wait staff to explore. I think that service at Per Se may suffer some, as their best servers will leave to go where they can make the kind of money that they are used to earning. Servers are essentially sales people. If you remove tips, and institute a service charge, you remove the incentive to go above and beyond with service. If you know you could be rewarded by an insanely large tip, you will make that extra effort. I think what many people in the restaurant world forget is that most chefs and cooks are in the kitchen because they love food, and are passionate about their job. Most servers have a love/hate relationship with their jobs. Serving the public is probably not what most of them would choose to do. They are in it for the money. Take the money away, and you remove the desire not only to do the job, but to do it well. Just my take on it. From a former waitress.

I'm curious as to how much of a hit the servers will be taking. Are they still getting the lion's share of the service charge, or is it evenly divided among everyone? I'd be furious if that were the case, as that is money taken out of the server's pockets. I'm totally against tip pooling anyway. I would never work in a restaurant that did it, as it is just terribly unfair. I've heard horror stories from servers who have. Good, professional servers can handle more than their co-workers. They also have many more requests from regular customers. Why should one server who may make double the tips of her less skilled colleague have to hand over money that she has earned? Tip pooling is not as common as you would think. Not in Mass anyway. I've worked in many restaurants over the years, from casual to fine dining, and none had pooling. If the server earns a tip, that tip is hers. You do of course, tip out, depending on the arrangement of the restaurant, a percentage usually to the bar and bus help. No one else. Sounds to me like Per Se, in their attempt to make service more even, is going to find that it backfires as they lose servers who will not put up with unfair paycuts. The end result, service will decline.