philadining

Barclay Prime?

Yeah, i couldn't tell if bigboss is/was associated with Lacroix. He was referring to a different thread, the brunch extravaganza, not KimWB's complaints, and might have been talking abstractly about those posts being helpful to someone putting on a brunch somewhere else. I'm not convinced that post tells us anything about Kim's situation. bigboss, can you clarify?

If only... While of course this is sad news, I'm hopeful that there will be an even more rewarding manifestation of Shola's talents in the future, and who knows, maybe some interesting transitional experiences... We'll see! I'm excited to see what Shola does next, and who knows, perhaps there will be some sort of SK-ish experience to be had along the way. And to those of you who teased me about jamming in as many visits as possible, doesn't look so crazy now, does it?

Sorry for the repost of the pictures, but I had wanted to add some comments, and missed the editing window... StudioKitchen, March 17, 2006 Aperitif: Chateau Frank 1999 Jerusalem artichoke Soup with Grapefruit Froth Frau Weingartner Wachau Gruner Veltliner 2004 This was one of Shola's signature earthy soups, we've had similar versions with other root vegetables, enriched with a little chicken stock, given a slight mystery via a clandestine smoked turkey wing. They're all great, but this was a particularly nice rendition, topped by what was really a light breeze of grapefruit, just enough to suggest a citrusy sharpness. The GruVe was just right with this soup, and pretty good for a few more courses! Foie Gras Custard, Spring Egg, Truffles, and Truffled Bread Pierre Morey Meursault 2001 Another appearance of the hot spring egg, in all its just-barey-set glory, but this time fighting for the richness crown with a creamy, cool, foie gras custard, and an amazingly intense truffle jus. I was afraid that it might have turned overwhelmingly smooth and unctuous, but no - the bread ban is lifted, and we have some crispy toasted challah, spread with truffled butter, to lend some crunchy contrast. Each of these elements really amplified the others, making this intensely flavorful, but somehow not too much. Sadly it was a bit too much for the Meursault, which was a quite tasty wine on its own, and actually had a very compatible flavor profile, which would have gone really nicely with this dish if its flavors had been dimmed 50 percent. As it was, the wine tasted a bit like water... but I look forward to trying this wine again with another dish. Tomato – Combova Lime Gelee Lobster Remoulade Celeriac “Chantilly” Puffed Rice Chateau d'Yquem Ygrec 2000 This was an absolutely stunning dish, my favorite of the night. Just as I was trying to locate what was so impressive about it, Matt articulated it perfectly: it was the flavor and textural interactions that were really making this sing. Individually, the parts were quite tasty, but when the acid bite of the tomato-lime mixed with the creamy celery root, whole new flavors erupted. When either of those combined with the rich remoulade, another series of reactions ensued. Some have noted that the lobster seemed secondary, and I'll concur. It was delicious, tender lobster, not a thing wrong with it, but this dish might have been just as good with shrimp or crawfish. But that's just it: it wasn't a lobster dish, it was a sum of its parts. And spectacular. The Ygrec was a worthy companion to this, and as it turned out, a great pairing with just about anything. I really loved this wine, full of the same flavors as the better-known, sweeter Yquem, but perhaps even more complex in this drier vehicle. Beautiful on its own, even nicer with almost anything we were eating. Again, major thanks to Doc for sharing this one. Foie Gras and Rabbit Terrine Miso Lemon Curd Asian Pear Young Frisee Lettuce Trimbach Cuvee Frederic Emile Riesling 1990 A classic terrine of Foie Gras, with a bit of textural contrast provided by the rabbit. And once again we had a plate that contained quite delicious elements that would reach even higher plateaux when combined. The sour lemon curd, rounded by a touch of salty miso, provided an acid to counter the rich foie gras, the pears some sweetness and crunch, the frisée a little of both. Tasting two or three of those components together made for an even more rewarding experience. That said, I could have eaten that delicate, tender frisée all by itself... I'm not sure this riesling was the perfect pair for this dish, but we were on the right track! We had an embarrassment of rieslings to pick from, but all of them dry... and we needed one with a bit more sweetness. Next time... Slow Cooked Ocean Trout Yuzu kosho Olive – Muscovado Streusel Sorrento Lemon Oil Creekside Farm Nine Herb Salad Hope Estate Hunter Valley Verdelho 2005 I'm not especially fond of salmon, and this fish is from that family, so I had some trepidation about this dish. But that worry was quickly banished upon tasting this beautifully moist, just barely cooked fish, whose mild flavors were enhanced by the sweet and salty crunch of the topping and the spicy zing of yuzu kosho below. And the herb salad!! Almost unbelievably fresh, young, vibrantly flavorful herbs, lightly dressed in a lemony oil were a great companion for the ocean trout, and would have made a fine course on their own. The Verdelho was an excellent match with this dish, and I could imagine this being great with just about any seafood, and beyond. Thanks Katie! Slow Roasted Berkshire Pork Belly “Preto Biologica” Farro and Proscuitto Cotto Stew Braised Pork Cheek, Prunes, Bergamot Oil Weis Beer Froth Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac 1990 Château Bouscassé Madiran 2000 One could have worse problems than trying to decide which part of this dish to save as a last, lingering taste, but I noticed my brother doing the same thing as I was: cutting bits of the belly and the cheek in to ever-smaller morsels, unable to decide which to finish with. Both were decadently good. As noted by JosephB, the belly had gone to a custardy consistency with a caramelized, crunchy top. But the cheeks were no slouches either, with a falling-apart tenderness under that beery froth. And not enough can be said about the goodness of that faro, with just a slight bite left to the grains, and a hint of porky salt from the cooked ham. Much credit can go to the quality of the product, but it still took a sure hand to get it to those heights. Both of these wines seemed a touch too brawny when we first opened them, but with a little air and a little pork, each was just fantastic. I think I ended up liking the Lynch-Bages with the pork belly, and the Bouscasse with the cheek, but you know, either was pretty darn good with either.. Redcurrant Rhubarb Soup Lemon – Chaource Ice Cream Confit of Berries Two Hands Brilliant Disguise Moscato 2005 Domaine Pinnacle Cidre de Glace 2001 This was a nice springy, almost summery dessert, and a nice light contrast to the hearty course preceding. I love those cheese ice creams Shola makes, and this one melded beautifully with the berries, and with the bright soup. We've decided that this particular Moscato goes with anything even vaguely fruity, and indeed it was a good partner here. And yes, also quite nice with a scoop of ice cream in it for Katie's patented moscato floats! And that wine made from frozen apples was quite nice as well, and different, thanks for sharing that one too, Doc. It was an enjoyable evening from all angles: the food was spectacular, the wines were universally complimentary, the crowd around the table was friendly and fun. And that social aspect continues to amaze me, it was as if we'd all been dining together for years, even though we had 4 first-timers in our midst. It was great to bring some new folks into the club: Doc, Kitty, Joe and Greg, I hope we'll see you again around that table! Thanks to everyone for good conversation, and good wines. And as always, thanks to Shola for creating such a special meal yet again. We look forward to the next stage... whatever it may be!

Onglet is the traditional cut. I always thought that was the same as hanger steak, but perhaps it's butchered a bit differently?

Excellent questions Leonard, and I'm not sure what the answers are either. I'm somewhat mystified by a Morimoto review that makes no mention of omakase, and barely acknowledges the availability of sushi and sashimi: "A vast selection of very fine sushi and sashimi roots the restaurant in Japan..." It's true enough that the multiculti menu is the flashier part of the offerings, but perhaps not the best of the food. I'll caution that I'm basing these comments on experiences in Philly, but the omakase and sushi selections, while rather expensive, are the most satisfying aspects of that restaurant, and I wouldn't be surprised if that were the case in NY as well. So it's odd to ignore them in a full review of the place in the Times. This is one review where the column inches devoted to scenesters and decor might be appropriate, but you'd think there might be room for a line or two about Morimoto's signature offerings.

I assume augieland meant he (Bruni) didn't mention having an omakase anywhere in the review. I'll join him (augieland) in thinking it odd for there to be no mention of the omakase in the review. At least at the Philly restaurant it's highlighted as the best way to experience Morimoto's food. interesting review otherwise, and a surprisingly positive tone for a one-star. Still with the disappointments he described, that sounds like the right rating.

Daniel, you're my inspiration for concentrated binges like this... I still bow down before the master!

My brother was visiting from out-of-state, and seemed up for a survey of Philly foods. We were humbled by how we merely scratched the surface, but it's a start. We look forward to parts 2 and 3 and 4... I thought you might like to come along on the ride... Friday evening we started with the unrivaled heights: StudioKitchen Saturday, we aimed for more modest culinary goals, and tried to fit in as many faves as we could fit. Roast Pork Italian at Tony Luke's A Barbecue Pork Bahn Mi at O then... well, OK, we didn't actually eat a goatburger, but we thought about it... stopped in to Claudio's for some snacks for later... tacos at Plaza Garibaldi (beef and chorizo, enchiladas, al pastor) Martinis and Szechuan Fries at The Continental Dinner at Amada: Sangria Flatbread with Tuna Spread Charcuterie Mixto Pulpo Gallego (Octopus) hey, if there's an Octopus Salad on special... why not? Clams and Chorizo Croquettas de Jamon Duck Flatbread ------ then... a run up to El Vez we had really planned on getting something to eat, but were confronted by our mere mortal limitations of appetite, so a margarita had to suffice... but we somehow found some room for Capogiro then had to call it a night. Sunday morning, Chinatown was calling: Rangoon: Ginger Salad 1,000 Layer Bread with Chicken Curry Kung Pau Beef then around the corner to The Szechuan tasty House Spicy Dumplings Golden Coins Twice Cooked Pork and then..... we ran out of time. More next time! I'd offer some analysis, but every single thing we got was quite delicious, and remain favorites.

Great pix Doc, thanks for adding those! And just to keep the historical record straight, we started the evening with a "Chateau Frank" bubbly. And along with welcoming the fine company at SK that night, we drank a toast to Willy Frank, a tireless booster of New York state wines, who recently passed-away. Given that half the table was from NY, it seemed appropriate!

StudioKitchen, March 17, 2006 Jerusalem artichoke Soup with Grapefruit Froth Frau Weingartner Wachau Gruner Veltliner 2004 Foie Gras Custard, Spring Egg, Truffles, and Truffled Bread Pierre Morey Meursault 2001 Tomato – Combova Lime Gelee Lobster Remoulade Celeriac “Chantilly” Puffed Rice Chateau d'Yquem Ygrec vintage? Foie Gras and Rabbit Terrine Miso Lemon Curd Asian Pear Young Frisee Lettuce Trimbach Cuvee Frederic Emile Riesling 1990 Slow Cooked Ocean Trout Yuzu kosho Olive – Muscovado Streusel Sorrento Lemon Oil Creekside Farm Nine Herb Salad Hope Estate Hunter Valley Verdelho 2005 Slow Roasted Berkshire Pork Belly “Preto Biologica” Farro and Proscuitto Cotto Stew Braised Pork Cheek, Prunes, Bergamot Oil Weis Beer Froth Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac 1990 Château Bouscassé Madiran 2000 Redcurrant Rhubarb Soup Lemon – Chaource Ice Cream Confit of Berries Two Hands Brilliant Disguise Moscato 2005 Domaine Pinnacle Cidre de Glace 2001

Those are good points, Katie. I just mentioned the Patatas and the Pulpo because on that saturday dinner I had a while back, we had a case of the over-polite, "you have it" "oh, no, YOU have it" syndrome, so we had a few things laying around for well over an hour, and you know, the patatas and the pulpo were just fine. Yes, of course they were better right when they arrived, and ours weren't packaged-up, steaming themselves, but they were surprisingly good even after a while had passed. But in general, I'm sure you're right: fried stuff, seafood that tends to get rubbery, might not be the best for takeout.

Couldn't blame you! But more practically, an order or two of the Pernil Asado gets you that same great roasted pork with crispy skin, and you can order the sides alone too. But it's certainly more dramatic to lug a whole little pig into the taxi...

Maxine Keyser says the new Django is better than ever in The City Paper.

Hey Fudy, Wanted to thank you again for telling us about these dinners. Because of your posts I tipped-off some nearby friends, who made it to the Jonathan Benno dinner. Thought you might like to hear their reaction: (quoted with permission) So... I guess they liked it! Sounded like a great meal, any impressions from the students' side?

If it's going to get packaged-up and carried, I'd just avoid some of the stuff that would have textural issues, like the cocas (flatbreads) or croquettes, etc that would likely just get soggy. Some of the delicate seafood might not make the journey in great shape, but I'd think many of their offerings would be just fine. You really might ask them when you order, see if they have advice for what to avoid or get for sure. From a recent visit I made, I think: PULPO CALLEGO / Spanish Octopus, PATATAS BRAVAS / Spicy Potatoes, PIQUILLOS RELLENOS / Crab-Stuffed Peppers, MELON CON JAMON / Serrano Ham & Cantelope PERNIL ASADO / Roasted Pork, White Beans, Arugula and Orange would all be fine even cooled-off a bit. They're better hot and fresh, but they'd still be tasty not quite as hot, a few minutes later... A Tortilla Espanola is often served at room temperature, so I expect it would be good no matter how long your cab ride is. Same with any of the charcuterie or cheeses, they're not going to be any worse for wear unless you let them dry out for many hours before eating them. Everybody's really nice there, I'd just order what looks good and ask them if any of what you ordered seemed like a bad idea for takeout.

feeling seriously under the weather...fogged-in....sore...congested...ornery... need soup. Must have soup. Maybe Beef Stew Rice Noodle Soup from Bamboo Noodle House in Fraser. (Sure they say the address is Malvern but you can't fool me, that's Fraser...) Starting to feel almost human. Almost. I have no idea if the restaurant as a whole is any good, but this is a fine soup.

It's in the "Frazer Plaza" right at the corner of 352 and 30. WAAAAAAY in back. It's a dismal little plaza, and I still haven't made it there during business hours, so I can't vouch for whether it's worth a trip, but it's worth one of us checking out.

Sorry your gyoza weren't as good as ours, which were indeed quite tasty. But I'm sure even Greg would agree that they aren't the real reason to visit Raw. I mean they're good, but they're just dumplings... There's lots more great stuff on the hot menu as well as from the sushi bar. I'm probably going to get them again next time I go, but they won't be the main reason for the visit.

The Frank Rieslings have long been favorites of mine, and stand up well against German, Austrian and Alsatian versions. I'm not as well-versed in the European wines as I should be, but I've poured Frank Riesling and Gewurtz for German wine snobs, and they've liked them quite a lot. (And I'll agree with Bob's post, I have become equally fond of Wiemer Rieslings, perhaps even preferring them, and between those two wineries, I'd stay pretty well-set for those German-style wines... thanks yet again to Bob for opening my eyes to the Wiemer. And I'll agree too that so far, I've preferred Frank and Weimer to West-coast and Aussie rieslings.) There's an amazing amount of good-to-very good Rieslings coming out of other wineries in the finger lakes region of NY as well, I've recently enjoyed some from Ravines and Heron Hill in particular. And the very existence of those wines can be credited almost entirely to Konstantin Frank, a true pioneer in New World winemaking in general, upstate New York in particular, proving, against many doubters, that fine vinifera wines could be grown outside of the traditional areas. And Willy Frank was almost as influential through his energetic promotion of the wines of not only his winery, but of NY state wines overall. All the winemakers in the area, and those of us that enjoy their products, owe Willy a real debt of gratitude for his hard work. It's sad to hear that Willy Frank has passed, the wine world is poorer for it. I'd certainly like to abstractly thank him, and his family, for their good work that didn't merely promote their own business, but improved the whole wine scene.

I'm willing to bet that they made him a really nice steak, with some potatoes. And although it's a shame that he missed the true French Laundry experience, he's probably raving about how great his steak was (and complaining about how expensive it was...) I posted over in the Per Se thread about how we saw a whole roasted poussin delivered to a nearby table. When we asked about it, our server said they keep a few things like that going "just in case". Apparently someone didn't feel like trying one of their tasting menus, and to the restaurant's credit, they just did what they could to make the customer happy. This overall attitude, reflected in their unhesitant willingness to make adjustments to our menu as well, was one of the most impressive things about Per Se. I'm confident that the French Laundry would have treated the situation the same way. But yeah, it's odd, and a shame that someone might so completely miss the point, but they probably ended up with an uneventful, uninteresting, but high-quality meal. Or maybe Keller came out from the kitchen and gave the guy a vulcan nerve pinch, like he had to the comatose lady in the other room, just waking up as you walked in...

And that fresh, real, wasabi is significantly better than that green-dyed powdered horseradish-based "wasabi" that shows up at a shocking number of places...

I'm certainly not going to dispute anyone's experiences, of course anything can happen on any given day, but I've been there a gazillion times, and never had bad service. Slow, yes... but if you're frustrated by long waits and slow service, most all of the popular South Philly brunch places will drive you out of your mind. I'm moving pretty slow myself on sundays, so maybe I just don't notice. But I'm always awake enough to discern what's on my plate, and it's always been really good at the Morning Glory. Especially those pancakes...

You mean to tell me that I've been committing a major culinary faux pas for all these years? I'm mortified, I tell you. I'll just have to cover the soy sauce dish with my overcoat while I engage in illicit activity henceforth, I guess. (So what am I supposed to do with the wasabi, anyway?) ← Scandalous!!! Next thing, you're going to tell us you dip the rice side of your sushi in the soy sauce!! What the writer is referring to is that the very common American custom of loading the soy up with wasabi and then soaking the rice in it, is frowned-upon at the most traditional, high-end places. Of course those sushi chefs are too scrupulously polite to poke you in the eye with a chopstick as punishment, but it'll peg you as an unsophisticated sushi-eater. A little wasabi and/or soy on the fish, as needed... In the end, one should do whatever makes it tastes good, and this reviewer was indicating that they're pretty laid-back at Raw, and probably won't scold you about things like that. But loading up your soy with tons of wasabi and then soaking the rice in it is the culinary equivalent of shaking tons of salt and pepper on your food before tasting it, or dousing your plate with ketchup: one would hope that at any nice restaurant, no matter the ethnicity, that kind of thing isn't necessary!

Interesting article in the Philadelphia Inquirer about sous-vide, including comments from Shola Olunloyo of StudioKitchen, and eGulleteer Greg Ling. It also adds a sidebar about sous-vide at home, featuring eGulleteer Percyn. In an interesting coincidence, given the interviews were done a while ago, Shola mentions the potential health concerns. (links may require free registration)