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My biggest gripe was no mention of the Chef/owner. You get Three stars you should get some credit, nu? I thought there was much criticism within the review. Hence I was again surprised at the number of stars given. Xaviers Garrison was given 3 & 1/2 stars and received a much more glowing review. What gives? Does the 1/2 star make that much diference? It may have indeed been a three star restaurant, but the review reads more like 2 star. A consistent problem with the Record. Perhaps the most consistent thing about the food writing at the Record is it's inherent inconsistency. Ten food critics, Im not surprised. The dining public shoudn't be either. Nick

'nother menu. July 12 & 13, 2002 APPETIZERS: Shrimp Cocktail14. Steamed Razor Clams In Garlic Saffron Brodo with Tomato and Chorizo 12. Fresh Gulf Shrimp, Pan Roasted with Pearl Cous Cous, Pancetta Gribenes and Roasted Red Pepper Jus 13. Corn Meal Dusted Fried Calamari; Red Chili Dipping Sauce 9. Pulled Duck Confit with Seared Foie Gras, Glazed Cherries and Caramelized Figs 14. Prime Dry Aged Sirloin Steak Carpaccio, Prepared as an Homage to Harry’s Bar; Shallot Marmalade and Lemon Pressed Olive Oil 11. Heirloom Tomato Salad, Laudemio Olive Oil, Blood Orange Zest and Crumbled Fresh Crottin Chauvignol 10. TONIGHT’S SELECTIONS Sashimi Grade Fluke Filet – Quickly Sautéed and Served with Fried Sage Leaves; Crisp Herbed Anna Potatoes - 22. Charred Hamachi, Coconut Jasmine Rice, Sesame Wakame, Chili Ginger Vinaigrette; Lotus Root Frites - 24. Australian Swordfish, Simply Grilled; Baby Vegetables and Roasted Fingerling Potatoes; Scallion, Leek and Holy Basil Frizzle -25. Seared Lamb Ribeye On a Bed of Fresh Morels and Roasted Baby Vegetables; Jus Aux Beurre - 25 Grilled Filet Mignon Steak, Roasted Vidalia Onion and Garlic Mashed Potatoes - 26 Chicken Breast Wellington – Mushroom Duxelle and Foie Gras; Roquefort Potato Dauphinoise - 21. Seared Sockeye Salmon; Lemon Roasted Yukon Gold Potatoes and L’Ancienne Mustard Beure Blanc. - 19.

Steve Klc said: Hey!, I resemble that remark. Seriously though, I take you to mean; who amongst us is truly self-taught. All of us learn every day from the first day we set foot into a kitchen, whether in school or in a working restaurant. Now as read the rest of your eloquent post, I see that you explain the above in such a manner that I'm at a complete loss for words. There is nothing I can add. You've said it all...and said it well. Bouland said: I might posit something else here. I might say that learning a lot of good personal cooking Technique requires lots of OJT. Analagous perhaps to an artist learning how to efficiently prep a canvas, cutting brushes, mixing paints etc. Learning how to place properly, keep pans hot, remembering to stash side towels, making the utility staff your friend, and turning on the hoods in the morning before you light up. These are things that you learn OTJ. They go in your virtual kitchen skill toolbox. I think a lot of the cooking HEART is already in you. The techniques that you learn throughout your career only help to refine that heart. I've worked with a lot of externs and I've worked with a lot of mustangs. I'll only agree that dealing with them requires different management skills. Each has pluses and minuses. Nothing that I can paint with a broad brush. Ultimately it comes down to the charactor of the individual. But I will share one anecdotal observation: In my experience an idealistic culinary school grad will usually show much respect, even awe, for their first kitchen, chef, fellow cooks and utility staff. In return that recent grad will get much more disrespect from the mustang cooks, chefs and sous chefs. I see no rational reason for this. Nick

I'm pretty sure Flay wnt to Kump's or was it FCI. Maybe he'll clarify. My own favorite mustang chef is...me! (no big head smiley?) I like this topic. I'd like to post more about my experiences. But no time now. The sockeye awaits. Nick

You're quite right Holly. When we used to make patties in one of the hotels i worked in, we used 1 chuck to 40 pounds of porterhouse tails. Essentialy flank steak. They were very nice flavorful burgers. Nick

Jin, Pretty prosaic, I'm afraid. Four u-10 shrimp cooked in the shell in court bouillon. Arranged on the plate with lemon and cocktail sauce. Gavin, The foie gras, lamb and duck confit don't sell much. Consequently I have a freezer full of leftover Foie scraps. Every once in a while we have a dumpling party. We sear chop and roll the foie gras into wonton wrappers. This we serve deep fried at high end banquets with a fig sauce. Difficult to shift ?? I'm not sure what you're asking. Rachel, My food cost is pretty high as you can see from my pricing. You are right about portion sizes also. they tend to the large size. I will generally fill any request that I can. I will not fill special requests that will impact negatively on large numbers of other members. Ex: I will not stop service to pound and bread a Veal Chop during the dinner rush simply because a member is in the mood for one and doesn't find it on this weeks menu. Rachel, Yes, perhaps. I don't like the sound of 'wing-tip' chicken breast. So many people do not know what I mean by 'french-cut' . My meat man (very knowledgable, BTW) has on more than one occasion, sent me bone in breast cages. 'Boneless French Cut' kinda covers all of the bases, both with the waitstaff, and the members. Where did you work, and if you don't mind my prying, where are your parents members? PM if you like. Lizziee, My favorite dish to do (lifted straight from Rose Pistole(sp)) is papperadelle with oxtail sugo, garnished with braised oxtails. In a 3 day period I sold one! This to David Burke who was in as a guest. Geez, thanx all for the great response. Nick

Yes. That's why I posted it this topic Nick

Yikes!! Another senior moment!! Nick

address nick? Route 4 East. In the east end of The Mall at IV. Next to the dodge dealer. The same mall that houses Macy's Furniture and the Jewelry Exchange. Koreana used to be in the west end of this mall next to Pizzeria Uno. Nick

Had dinner with my wife at Namaskaar in Paramus. Very Pleasant. Split order of chicken samosas followed by Lamb Madras Curry and a Chicken Curry dish. Good basmati rice with peas and mint. Healthy portion of Naan. Basket of Popadum with tamarind on the table. + A couple of Kingfishers for me and a glass of white for the wife. Got out for about 60 bucks inc the ++. Nice pleasing meal. Good surroundings. Good service. Neat and tidy looking place. One of my favorite Indian restaurants. Nick

One of my two day menus. Menus are written and sourced (usually vice versa), then executed in one day with the tweak being done on the second day. Following week we start again. The only thing that remains constant are the items from 'Salmon' on down. We're currently onto Sockeye salmon. When the alaskan product dries up we switch to farm raised. May 31 & June 1, 2002 APPETIZERS Shrimp Cocktail14. Seared Foie Gras, Stone Fruit Compote and Fig Syrup 13. Warm Duck Confit Leg, Small Greens with Roasted Beets and Peaches: Pommes Cidre Vinaigrette with Truffle Oil 11. Pan Roasted Lamb Ribeye Served with Coco Blanc Bean, Beet, Fava and Carrot Stew 10. Lobster and Spring Mushroom Risotto, Leek and Scallion Frizzle 12. Penne Bolognese with Shaved Parma Ham and Reggiano Parmigiano 10. Freshly Pulled Mozzarella, Seasonal Tomatoes, Laudemio Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Black Pepper Mignonette 11. Chipotle Gazpacho with Grilled Shrimp, Sliced Avocado and Whipped Crème Fraiche 10. Chef’s Selections: Charred Ahi Tuna - Dupuy Lentils with Lemon Grilled Asparagus and Roasted Onion - 24. Veal Chop Milanese – Pounded Thin and Breaded; Smothered with Arugula, Tomato, and Onion Salad; Potato Frites - 32. Grilled Cowboy Steak – Dry Aged Beef Rib Chop Served with Mashed Potatoes and Charred Sweet Onions -32. Simply Broiled West Coast Scallops – With Risotto, Grilled Asparagus and Lemon Beurre Blanc - 24. Locally Caught Black Sea Bass Filet – Prepared with Three Peppercorn Crust and Served with Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Baby Vegetable Medley and Beurre Rouge - 22. Boneless French Cut Chicken Breast – Sage and Prosciutto frizzle; Soft Polenta and Caramelized Garlic - 18. Pan Roasted Wild Alaskan Salmon Filet – Lemon Roasted Yukon Gold Potatoes, Seasonal Vegetables & l'Ancienne Mustard Beurre Blanc - 19. Giannone Chicken Roasted in the Rotisserie – Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Seasonal Vegetables & Cranberry Chutney - 17 Grilled Veal Rib Chop – Roasted Sweet Onion, Dried Tomato & Grilled Asparagus - 32. USDA Prime Dry Aged New York Shell Steak – Potato Frites; Thick Sliced Tomato & Onion - 32. Triple Cut Rib Lamb Chops – Garlic Mashed Potatoes & Seasonal Vegetables - 32. Thanks for indulging Nick

Hi bunny. I couldn't resist. None of what I'm about to say should be construed as criticism. Just my take on what you posted. Some suggestions and some casual and very VERY friendly observations. Whew! Now that that's out of the way I can start. Both dishes sound very nice by themselves, each alone, but as a duet they seem mismatched and slightly over the top. These are appetizers, right? Less is sometimes more. I tend to agree with Rosie. Frogs legs can be a tough sell. Perhaps better saved for a special. At this point in time oven roasted tomatoes ( as well as shitakes) tend to the prosaic and sometimes add little to a dish. Perhaps you may want to 'punch this dish up with similar but more edibly interesting ingredients. Although you may feel the need to use them in this dish the listing as an ingredient, especially as only a garnish seems unnecessary. I really like the sound of this dish and I only have one caveat. Perhaps you may wish to practice grilling a cherry tomato before listing it as an ingredient (perhaps roasted or charred) I also like this dish. My suggestion has to do with the number of onions. Why not choose one very interesting and flavorful onion (vidalia, maui sweet) and concentrate its flavor. The 5 onions may tend to muddy up flavorwise resulting in something other than what you intended for the dish. The marrow makes an interesting and flavorful touch. Much depends on the greens and the dressing. So far you've got a nice start. I'm sure you mean to think this one through a bit more. Again it's difficult to tell much about these dishes based on what you've written. They sound more like germs of ideas awaiting further thought and development. I like the bass. Remember a fresh herb crust will be a burnt herb crust. (you realize this fish is seasonal). I like the risotto (watch the use of saffron; too much of good thing usually isn't). I also like the dish served with grilled vegetables (try for a more interesting mix), but I find the shrimp superfluous and distracting. If you can get a roasted vegetable reduction that is tasty (beware, it can bitter up easily) so much the better. This sounds like your signature dish Remember that good white truffles are a very VERY seasonal ingredient and last years price was ridiculous. The price tends to be prohibitive. If you do go with them (truffles) remember that the use of white truffles will demand the use of impeccable ingredients and preparation techniques throughout this dish as anything less than perfection will exagerate itself in spades. Such a nice technique and concept regarding the salmon, blood orange, and greens calls for something less ubiquitous than carrots and cucumber (green papaya, chayote, heirloom tomatoes etc). These dishes all seem to be works in progress. I get the feeling that you are still fleshing out ingredients that you may like to work with. My comment is that these dishes do seem to be mixing the seasons a bit much. I think you may want to think as hard about these dishes as you did about some of the others. Concentrate on specific seasonality of ingredients throughout all of your dishes. Flesh these out a bit more before you commit to putting them on your menu. Overall not a bad attempt. I think it still needs much work, but you knew that Nick

I use them ( 'johnny jones' exclusively). Switched from B&E. They are very good. I didn't know about the D'artagnon connection. I thought they (d'artagnon) only used their own house brand of free-range. Nick

[ Here goes in my best AP style (actually Lorraine Davis') The recipe is as follows: I believe Yukon Gold have yellow flesh. They will also not oxidize as readily as russets. Hope this helps Nick

What a nice description, Rosie. Beautiful menu items. I'm so envious. Since I change my own menus daily, I simply cannot concentrate on such well thought out items (sigh). My staff is handed a menu in the AM and it has to placed and ready to serve 8 hours later. Many of the items and garnishes having never been done before. Your description was well done. It's on our list. More so after reading this post. Nick

I went ...once. Fuddruckers sucks. IMHO. Nick

I agree with you jason. They are bound to lose points simply for being a BYOB. The Times recognizes this. I wish that others would. Nick

The knife is drawn towards you perpendicular to your body as the potato is turned away from you, also perpendicular. Don't wiggle the potato from side to side elsewise you will get the swirl. A smooth turn, towards you and away from you at the same time. Or rather, knife clockwise, potato counterclockwise, at the same time and along the same plane. Keep practicing and good luck. Hope I didn't confuse you further Nick

The fish stands up well to a heavy perep hand. Standard at the club: A bed of rich garlic mashed (yukon Gold with with whole poached garlic in the cream mix) top with julienne savoy cabbage with samewise vidalias and crisp pancetta gribenes. Cook the onions and cabbage in the pancetta fat. Top with the monkfish dredged in a mix of good paprika, flour and fine white bread crumbs. Pan roast and place atop the cabbage mix. Cordon a marchand de vin sauce made with roasted fumet. Not better just different Nick

Okay, not a review. But here goes . A description of my dinner at 'Blue Smoke'. We are a party of 6 at 5:45 on a monday. 'twas all that was available 2 weeks out. No problem. I prefer early AND on off nights. We were told that the larger tables go quickly. It happened to be one of the nicer corner tables, arguably the best table in the house. A corner table next to window with a view of the entire dining room. My wife and I are the last members of our party to arrive. We are just on time (as I succesfully indulged my jones for free on street parking) and are cheerfully greeted by the hostess on duty and shown directly to our table. Note: lots of genuine eager to please vibe and karma gushing from all. No dark "hate my job", "wish I were somewhere else" shite. Friendly friendly (not obsequious) waitstaff. Beer and wine orders are taken promptly (Anchor Liberty Ale for me, something white wineish for my SO) and delivered samewise. The room is spare and utilitarian with exposed ductwork and chandeliers constructed from caged industrial safety lights. A long bar dominates the right side of the resaturant countered by a line of banquettes across from it. This opens into a large space divided into two dining areas separated by some stark but properly trendoid floral arrangement. Apps are ordered first and delivered. Mine: "Blue Smoke Black Pepper Pork Sausage with pickled Onions and Okra". Kinda' like Southern Style Saucisson with black pepper. Okay, but something else next time. Nothing wrong, just wasn't wowed. YMMV. Other apps: "Chicken Wings". No surprises but seemed obligatory and forced. Side order of roquefort bacon dip did much to elevate these. "Fried Green Tomatoes"; One of the better apps. Cornmeal breaded with a refreshing salad of small tomatoes. Reminded me of giant fried okra. "Chilled Smoked Foie Gras"; Lightly smoked torchon begging the question...why? Otherwise fine, but next time I'll save the bucks for two more of the interesting and tasty sides. More later. "Jackies Fry Bread"; Yowsers!, Came heavily touted by our waiter and did not disapoint. Southern fried Zeppole with a pleasent jalapeno marmalade. Hit of the table with much passing of same. Apps were rounded out by a generous Caeser Salad. I didn't taste it, but the greens looked fresh and the dressing, inviting. I'd order it on another visit based solely on the looks of this one. But I was always a sucker for a pretty face. We ordered sides and then mains. Massive galvanized buckets of housemade BBQ potato crisps and fried breaded onion rings. All tasty and good. Crisps could have been salted more, but there was a shaker at the table. Onion rings were fresh with a decidedly unsoggy crust. Nice and tender thick sweet onion interior. Good all by themselves. But one could always employ the lazy susan of a pedestrian BBQ sauce, Tabasco Chipotle Sauce, or shaker of dry rub At this point I switched to Brooklyn Weisse Bier. Nice and sweet with a big chunk of lemon to edge it off nicely. Mains consisted of the following: "Rhapsody In Cue", A too cute name for a sample platter consisting of Pork Spareribs, a smoked chicken drumstick a half smoked chicken breast on the bone and a serving of pulled pork with a squeeze of house BBQ sauce on it. The spareribs were extraordinarily well trimmed. The meat was slightly chewy but by no means tough. If you're looking for falling off the bone you won't get it here. The chopped BBQ was moist and tender with some welcome tasty browned pork gribenes chopped through the pulled meat. The chicken was smokey but curiously underseasoned. The side of cole slaw that came with all the mains was tarted up with some unrecognizable (to us) spice that all agreed had no place in a proper BBQ slaw (what do we know). Other mains included: Smoked Brisket of Beef; Great portion but I wanted more smoke and a bit more seasoning. Pulled Pork BBQ was another large portion that ran up to the edge of the cliff but stopped just short of taking off. My impression is that everyone is trying too hard to get it right. Like an 80s era cd of a great performance. Clean but still coldly digital. At this point Danny Meyer came to the table and introduced himself. We made some jokes and he agreed to have his picture taken with a friends fiancee who is particularly taken with him. We said that his photo would go next to the wedding picture on the mantlepiece. The frown that crossed his face (yes Virginia, he does on occasion) upon realizing that one side dish from the previous course had not been cleared was revealing. BTW by 7:30 or so the place was full and cooking. Noise levels did get to the point that shouting was necessary. But all seemed to fit in with the nature of the place. All agreed that ALL the desserts were proper, fitting and well executed. One of the best Key Lime Pies I've had. My wifes Coconut Layer Cake was, to use her words, "to die for!" Rhubarb Pie ala mode and Banana Cream Pie were also big hits. The dining experience was good and the service was appropriate in spades for this place. We left happy and felt that normal eaters should escape well fed and beered up for about 50-60 dollars per person. We didn't think that was bad. We had a good time and thought that Union Square Group has achieved its goals of an unpretentious neighborhood place that serves good Bar- B- Que. Thanx for Listening Nick

Rochelle, Re tournee spuds: If you want to learn how to do these you must PRACTICE! Muchly A curved tournee knife will work, but after you get good at it you'll find that you'll be able to tournee olivette with a 12 inch chefs knife. For practice, B size potatoes work nicely. Buy a few pounds and practice at home or anywhere in your spare time. First : make sure the knife is sharp Second: Draw the knife (right hand for right handed) towards you in a curve along the spud, while at the same time the left hand holding the potato turns it the opposite direction to the knife draw, at the same time! While you're in school, you should try to get 7 sides (many chef/instuctors will count 'em). Irregardless of the number of sides, they should look uniform. This way they'll cook evenly. Continued good luck to you! Nick

Best of luck Rochelle. You've recieved some excellent advice and I'd be hard pressed to disagree with any of it. "If you truly love what you do then you will never have a job" BTW. Re the clog advice. My suggestion is to get both clogs and a good sturdy pair of ankle supporting NON-SLIP sneaker type footwear such as made by 'Shoes For Crews'. DO NOT use sneakers. Sneakers/athletic shoes + tile floors + water/grease = much slips and falls. The clogs work for standing around in a small area. The other shoes work for zipping around from end to end in large kitchens. I use both depending on whether I'm on my station for the bulk of the day (clogs) or running a large function requiring me to be all over the place (workshoe). Best of luck Nick

Cabrales, I've made much daupinoise over the caourse of my career. It's any easy dish for either alacarte or buffet work. I use a recipe from Larousse Gastronomique. Most recipes are basically the same. Some add eggs some do not. Some include parmesan, some use all gruyere, some use 1/2 gruyere, 1/2 ementhaler. Some scald the milk some do not. Most all have you rub the cooking vessel with bruised garlic. Mix the thinly sliced potatoes with the cheese S&P, nutmeg and scalded milk. Press into the casserole, dot with butter and bake. I checked Pul Bocuse's French Cooking and on page 359 there is a recipe for Gratin Daupinoise and Gratin de pommes de Terre Fernand Point. The latter omits the cheese and adds creme fraiche to the milk. Hope this helps Nick

Jin, Daupinoise and dauphine are different dishes Nick

Oh My! Restaurant reviews and reviewers! Oh... Let me at 'em! Well not really. I've not read the review. Some points, though: For all the sturm und drang over a critics professional qualifications it's important to remember that Karla Cook (I believe) is a CIA grad. Though I believe that a knowledge of food or at least dining experience is a prerequisite for a critic or food writer in general, I DON'T believe that it's necessary for a critic to have the type of technical background that a CIA education affords. In fact, it is probably a detriment. Many pros here on eGullet may agree that a professional food education tends to be dogmatic and parochial and although leaving one technically proficient in a cooking sense, tends to leave one somewhat behind the curve vis a vis a cutting edge culinary sensibility. Another side of this, and I've expressed this informally to many of you in other venues is that cooks just 'don't get out much'. We can only offer our opinion within the context of being professional cooks and chefs. A much more narrow context than one would think given the recent celebrity afforded many of us. We generally cannot offer the type of richness of opinion that a Plotnicki or cabrales or brown or lizziee can (I offer them up as an unscientific sample of what I consider to be a dining audience). IMO, we pros as a group tend to be to be deconstructive and nit-picky over the food we eat to a fault. This disqualifies us as a group to be restaurant critics in all but he most informal sense. The final disqualification concerns the term Food Writer. Yes indeed!, the first and foremost prerequisite for a Food Writer is the ability to WRITE! Many of us haven't the skills to do that effectively. I can only offer my opinion on the general quality of the writing. IMO Corcoran tends to be better than Cook. Possibly for the reasons stated above. I haven't read the review nor eaten at The Frog and the Peach and cannot comment on the specifics of this review. Thanx for listening Nick