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KC Media Digest for week of December 14-20, 2005 In the Kansas City Star Food Section Want to entertain during the holidaze but fear you will not have time to prepare dilectible treats to serve? Gail Borelli has some time-saving tricks that will help you combine foods readily available from your grocer to produce clever, tasty treats in minutes. Lauren Chapin says Pears are Perfect For the Holiday Table. In The Star's Preview Magazine Lauren Chapin visits the new collaboration between the team who founded Bagel & Bagel and Beard-award winners Debbie Gold and Michael Smith (of 40 Sardines). She finds much to like about Spin!, a Neopolitan-style pizzeria, but thinks that long-time local favorite, Tatsu, and his latest venture Toaster's miss the mark. The Pitch Local restarateur, Jose "Don Pepe" Fernandez, has launched his sixth area endeavor and Senor Ferruzza thinks The Cafe Sevilla might be the best yet. And, having paid his dues as a server, Charles settles the score with cheapskates who refuse to tip on wine eKConline Contributor Mike Taylor and friends visit La Croix's Creole Bistro in Westport. On KCUR-FM (89.3) The food critics' appearance from Friday, December 9, is available in the Archives. <><><><><> Media Digest Notes... Updates from some area media outlets, which do not 'go to press' before we do, will be edited into each week's post as they become available. Please do not reply on this thread. For discussion of any stories which are linked here, please feel free to start a new thread or contact the forum host or digester who will be happy to do it for you.

Don't know about Tammy but I think I'll stick with my tried-and-true Herradura

Aw, he never left KC -- those are stock photos and the rest is pure fiction. (That's what I am telling myself to keep me from hating him, anyway.) It is a well-written report, Z. I feel completely deprived and thoroughly envious and am impressed that you showed so much restraint in taking photos before you devoured the food.

Yes, welcome! We departed from tradition years ago -- easy for us without kids to pass tradition along to and only intermittent family involvement. We tend to treat ourselves to decadent foods that we don't indulge in everyday (although the list is getting shorter the older we get, the more self-indulgent we become...soon everyday will be a holiday ). We typically lay-in caviar (with blinis and creme fraiche, of course), a fine assortment of cheeses, cornichons, a variety of olives, pates, some sushi or sashimi and lots of good bubbly. Depending on how many and whom you're trying to feed, this may or may not be practical or financially feasible but for a small gathering, I really don't think we end up spending that much more than if we did the usual massive amounts of ham or turkey and all of the sides. One year I made a bouillabaise, another a standing rib roast. Special but not ponderous. Edited to correct type-o.

I have not tried Circe, although I have started to -- and wanted to. I stop and look at the menu in the window and it sounds delicious, but even those who have enjoyed it on occasion find it hit-and-miss, so I'm holding off in the hope that they work the kinks out. Thanks, UE, for the clarification. Again, I am sorry you had unpleasant experiences. Obviously I have not and have been eating there since the night they opened but that doesn't render your unfortunate visits any better -- I am grateful to have dined there well and often. I understand, though. There are places that I have given more than ample opportunity to get it right and they've just never been hitting on all cylinders when I am there, so I have given up -- in spite of the fact that friends swear by their food. Fortunately we have lots of choices now, so no reason to subject ourselves to any further food trauma.

No need to apologize -- chaq'un a son gout (pardon lazy lack of diacriticals). That has not been my experience (happily). I think you're a trooper to return so many times. I'm not sure I would continue to go somewhere for mediocre to disastrous food. I think it's unfortunate that you've had bad experiences there but I'm not sure I understand the more sweeping condemnation of their cuisine as "terribly crass and unappealing." That's a pretty broad indictment and I find it more troubling than the rest. The printed menu is pretty standard bistro fare; they do have a wide variety of chalkboard specials daily, some of which are [again] pretty standard and some borrow from other cuisines reflecting the Marseilles roots of the chef. Can you give an example of dishes that caused such a strong reaction?

Wonderful...and I've gone on-record as saying the "memory of them still haunts me."

I tried it last season and I think you're being generous, Chezcherie. I thought it much worse that you would expect -- one sip and straight into the recycling bin. Why would they put their name on it?

More than a decade ago, we had a restaurant named after, and specializing in, a type of bread which also lent its name to sandwiches made with it. I believe they were called tieso (or perhaps hyphenated ties-o). I loved them and ate lunch there a lot. The memory of them still haunts me but I am apparently misremembering the name or spelling, as I cannot find any information on them anywhere. I know that some foods are particular to a tiny village and may not find their way into the more mainstream culture, but thought I would reach out to the Society members in that part of the world for assistance. Thanks in advance for any hints, clues, recipes or suggestions of resources or alternate spellings.

I love kohlrabi. I am sad that no one has mentioned the lowly rutabaga. It is one of the stars in the leftover roasted root vegetables I brought for lunch today. Humble but loveable.

You have my sympathy. I attended similar events for a while and finally had an epiphany "why am I doing this to myself?" and stopped. Even then it wasn't over, though. I attended a wine dinner at one of my favorite restaurants and their distributor was there -- I was horrified to discover that it was one of the most aggregious offenders, guilty of all of the things you mention in your posting and more. Oy. It as all I could do to keep from walking out of the dinner. I know sales people have to sell, but wine is such a more personal experience, I like to think of it outside of the realm of "just business."

KC Media Digest for week of December 7-13, 2005 In the Kansas City Star Lauren Chapin reviews several titles sure to please the food-lovers on you gift list. And some spirits to warm you up after all of that shopping. The Pitch Charles Ferruzza returns to The Gaf for a more thorough investigation. The Roasterie goes back to the basics and a newcomer, The Mixx, steps in to fill the gap for lunch in the Brookside area. On KCUR-FM (89.3) The food critics return to the Walt Bodine show Friday, December 9, at 10am CST. You can Listen Live! or take advantage of the Archives, generally available a day or two after the original broadcast. <><><><><> Media Digest Notes... Updates from some area media outlets, which do not 'go to press' before we do, will be edited into each week's post as they become available. Please do not reply on this thread. For discussion of any stories which are linked here, please feel free to start a new thread or contact the forum host or digester who will be happy to do it for you.

And, once again, eGullet proves to be the most comprehensive FREE resource for food-related information. I feel a ponzu tasting coming on. ChefCAG, curious what your plans are for it (apart from using your newly found knowledge to put your staff back in their proper place )? In the context of the demo where I first learned about it, it was used almost more like a salad dressing (although there was some shrimp in the salad, which seems more true to the typical use).

PITA sous chefs, know-it-all customers...what's a chef to do? Yuzu is a citron-related fruit that is often used to make ponzu sauce. Sudachi is a fruit closely related to the yuzu; they make a kind of vinegar out of it, I believe. I have always thought soy was an integral ingredient in ponzu but my information is a recollection of a chef demo a little over a year ago so you might wait for someone more authoritative to weigh-in before you stake your career and reputation on it.

He actually has a storefront now. (Previously he was tucked upstairs above a restaurant and sold directly from there. I actually kind of liked that vibe but it wasn't terribly practical or conducive to success). He's at 118 Southwest Boulevard, which is a traditional mecca of Mexican restaurants, and in the last couple of years has added a pretty wide variety of other types of food. It's also quite near the Boulevard Brewing Company (motto: the second largest brewery in Missouri), and they do tours on Saturdays (but you need to reserve ahead). You could, theoretically, have a really nice day without ever moving your car.

Until a couple of years ago I traveled to Omaha semi-frequently on business. I second the suggestion to hie yourself to the Old Market -- it is your best defense against chain-mania. I always liked Vivace for Italian, Ahmad's for middle eastern. There is an old-time favorite there that purportedly has the best fried catfish and the like, but I can't remember the name of it. Probably if you said that much to a local, they would know what you were talking about and direct you to it, if you like that sort of thing.

I'm afraid I have to side with UE on this one, so I don't feel terribly qualified to weigh-in (pun intended) on desserts. On the recommendation of Zeemanb we ordered the molten sugar cake at Pachamama's and I thought it was quite good -- for a dessert. About the only times I eat desserts are when I indulge in a tasting menu and even then I am more likely to take it 'to go' and have it with coffee the next morning. With that qualifier, I think Megan Garrelts' offerings at bluestem are quite good. I also took some of her work with me to a party after dinner one night and my friends who *are* dessert-hounds practically fought over them, so I took that as an endorsement (and made a mental note to start hanging around a better class of people ).

I know you said that, and I appreciate it. I meant the general you - the society of E Gullet - which seems to have real attitude about Gourmet. Frankly, I don't understand it. There are even a number of writers on this site who continually trash the magazine and then call us up and try to sell us stories. So Robyn, I'm doubly grateful for your support. As for digital, most magazines have moved to it. It's much less expensive and much easier - no reloading. I'm not an expert on this, but our art department feels that the technology is not yet where it ought to be. I hope they change their minds soon; it will save us a fortune. ← "Your magazine sucks, so you should hire me to write for it" -- interesting approach to selling articles. I can't believe this thread has gone on this long without any mention of the infamous cupcake cover. I am still stunned by the amount of attention that drew and the passion of those on both sides of the "controversy" (in quotes because who knew, with a war and several other things going on in the world, that there could be a cupcake "controversy"? I am passionate about food, but...). One more thing about digital -- I have a friend who was a happy practitioner of photography for ~35 years; he did a lot of studio work but also a considerable amount of travel, landscape, famous musicians on stage, etc. He went digital two years ago and now hates his work, is trying to sell his business; in a word, it has turned into a job. I don't know if others have experienced this, but I have been saddened and amazed at what the transition did to him, artistically and professionally.

KC Media Digest for week of November 30-December 6, 2005 In the Kansas City Star An interesting article on Heritage Pork -- like Heritage Turkeys, area farmers have taken the lead in restoring these once-disappearing breeds to popularity and greatness. Unlike today's mass produced, lean and often-flavorless "other white meat," these are bred for their distinct flavor. Local Chefs are increasingly turning to these breeds to restore pork to a place of honor on their menus. (Sorry, this story is available in the print version but is not online at this time.) Our local treasure, Master Sommelier and Master of Wine Doug Frost,* suggests that the enjoyment factor of wine cannot always be reduced to a simple numeric value in "We've Got Mr. Parker's Number." [*I hope Kansas City appreciates how fortunate we are to have this approachable-yet-esteemed resource living amongst us. -Ed.] And Lauren Chapin offers some gift ideas that can be purchased online, to help you avoid the shopping rat race. The Pitch Charles Ferruzza revisits a middle-aged Italian donna at Crown Center and finds her doing very well, grazie. Milano, at sixteen, is finally shedding its Rodney Dangerfield manteau. And continuing on his Italian theme, a venerable institution near the Kemper Arena, Sutera's, opens a new location in Westwood. On KCUR-FM (89.3) The food critics were too overstuffed from Thanksgiving to answer the call last Friday. They return to the Walt Bodine show next Friday, December 9, at 10am CST. <><><><><> Media Digest Notes... Updates from some area media outlets, which do not 'go to press' before we do, will be edited into each week's post as they become available. Please do not reply on this thread. For discussion of any stories which are linked here, please feel free to start a new thread or contact the forum host or digester who will be happy to do it for you.

Now that you're located in that neck of the woods, you will be amazed at the breadth of the offerings at Red X. I never cease to be amazed; I can search and search for something all over the city and lo and behold, there it is on the shelf. And Clayton, the manager there, is extremely helpful -- if they don't already have it, he'll usually track it down and order it for you.

I have volunteered to do this, gratis, on more than one occasion, and in advance of the event I was planning to cover so they could provide guidelines, length and focus (so I wasn't just foisting my idea of an article on them after the fact). These offers have been variously ignored, received "thanks but no thanks" replies or (in the case of the opening of Copia several years ago, attended at my own expense) tossed aside as something more appropriate for the travel section. Hence my suspicion of complacency. I do read the NY, LA and Chicago sections online as well as a few select others; I just find it sad that there is a lot going on in our city but one would scarcely know it by reading the same old 'stuff' week after week. Thank god for eGullet, and thanks for the suggestions. I'm happy for you that your proactive approach to improving the situation in your area was welcomed.

I'm joining this late but glad to see the topic raised. Our Food section has won awards in the past few years (for special-topic series, I believe, rather than routine weekly content) and yet it seems so predictable and formulaic. I still feel a little spark when I awake and realize it's Wednesday, hurry to the paper and sit down with it, a cup of coffee and optimism. About five minutes later, I've read everything that is worth reading and fallen into my tired, old "why can't they do more with everything that is going on?" litany. I know there are dollar and staff constraints but there are 100 people on this forum alone who clearly spend more time on food-related topics than it could possibly require to put together our average weekly section (based on the amount of copy contributed by others, picked up from new services and other papers) and they do it as a labor of love. For that reason alone I still find myself expecting more even if there is only one full-time staffer (in fact, there are two if you count the restaurant reviewer, who chips in additional items, plus regular contributors). I attribute it to the complacence of tenure but maybe I'm being unfair. I realize this isn't a question for Ruth but am curious if others feel the same about their local offerings, especially in light of the incredible amount of information and content available gratis on this forum and other online sources.

I don't suppose you would care to give the society members a preview of what types of dishes you're thinking of serving in the "new space" (are you just calling it "The Wine Bar at bluestem" or...?). And maybe we can help design the special service pieces you'll be using. Oh, wait, wrong thread. Sorry.

Well, this is geo-specific but not variety-specific, as in your example, but I have learned a lot from reading Vino Italiano (Joe Bastianich and David Lynch).

If you're on this Forum, surely you have a favorite restaurant...unless you really want to buy one, ask a chef to borrow one for the night.