Redsugar

Les Clafoutis Carole Bloom's entry for CLAFOUTI Iin The International Dictionary of Desserts, Pastries, and Confections: "A rustic type of fruit tart baked w/out a bottom pastry crust, clafouti originated in the Limousin region of France. Traditionally, the fruit used to make a clafouti is dark, sweet cherries, unpitted, but almost any fruit can be used. A thick pancakelike custard batter is poured over the fruit in a deep buttered baking dish. The batter puffs when baked, forming a crust over the fruit. A clafouti is best served warm, dusted w/ confectioners' sugar and accompanied by ice cream or whipped cream." Fay Sharman notes in The Taste of France (a dict. of Fr. food & wine) that the dish was traditionally served to grape harvesters during their work breaks. I've often made the classic custard dish, but always substitute pitted fresh (Bing) cherries. Alternatively, I've baked the custard filling in a tart shell (almonds are a good choice for the crust). In that version, I had used Cherry Marnier, but I am curious whether Marniér-Lapostelle has continued to produce that flavour of liqueur. (Sadly, they’ve delisted their wonderful Crème de Grand Marnier!) Blueberries, boysenberries, loganberries, and olallieberries can play a wonderful rôle as the ersatz fruit in a clafouti. Ditto poached pears or peaches. But, for the triple impact of three red fruits, you may be enamoured by this recipe: 12 oz. fresh Bing cherries, halved & pitted 8 ounces red plums Zest of 1 med. orange 1¼ oz. Kirsch BATTER 1 cup whole milk ½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour 1/3 cup granulated sugar 3 large eggs 1 oz. vanilla extract Pinch of salt ½ cup fresh raspberries ¼ tsp ground cinnamon Butter shallow ceramic dish. Mix cherries, plums, zest, sugar, Kirsch. Let stand 1 hr. Transfer mixture to baking dish using slotted spoon, arranging plums cut-side down. Preheat oven to 325° F. Prepare batter. Gently ladle it over fruit. Scatter raspberries over top; sprinkle w/ cinnamon. Bake until clafouti is set in center. Cool slightly, then dust w/ powdered sugar. (If desired, you can caramelize the sugar topping in order to gild this scrumptious lily.)

I had posted a recipe for Cake Doughnuts in compliance w/ the thread-starter's request (on behalf of her client). However, if the quest is moving toward an even lighter product, then yes I agree that a yeast-raised dough will produce an airier fried result. These breads are softer & lighter than the Old-Fashioned Cake variety because they are leavened w/ yeast. My fav. yeast-raised doughnuts contain mashed potato and the yeast itself is sponged in potato water; after frying, I glaze the breads w/ melted fondant icing in coffee or maple flavour. Yet, even lighter in texture are the Mexican Buñuelos – although including these fritters in our discussion would possibly veer attention from the original request. Nevertheless, as may be commonly known, buñuelos are small, round puffy pillows of fried sweet dough (whose hollow centers can be filled w/ jelly). Another Mex. fried bread, Churros, are made of cream puff paste; but they too are almost hollow inside. Beignets , popularized in America at the New Orleans French Mkt (and traditionally consumed w/ strong *Café au Lait mellowed w/ chicory in the Cajun or Creole style) are famously light French-style doughnuts. Also, let's include Sopaipillas in our inventory of fried breads. They're an airy southwestern bread which inflates dramatically when cooked. Finally, for the ultimate deliciously tender 'n buttery, melt-in-your-mouth experience of fried breads, prepare a batch of Brioche-Doughnuts! The quintessential reason for making your own doughnuts is the complete satisfaction of the distinctive tastes & textures – not to mention the undeniable freshness – of these breads. No commercially available product can compare, let alone surpass the sheer quality of privately made doughnuts. * "...I find so many of the light, tasteless coffees in the U.S. to be a disgrace...the single outstanding exception is French Market Coffee and Chicory produced in New Orleans, a sturdy, full flavored blend...it rivals even the best 'Italian Roast' beans used for espresso..." ~ James Villas in the December ’97 issue of Town & Country.

Old-Fashioned Cake Doughnuts 1 cup granulated sugar 4 tsps baking powder 1½ tsps salt ½ tsp ground nutmeg 2 large eggs 2 oz. butter, melted 1 cup whole milk 4+ cups cake flour Cinnamon Sugar, optional 1. Stir together sugar, baking powder, salt, and nutmeg. 2. Add eggs, butter, and milk. 3. Add 3 cups flour, beating until thoroughly blended. Add another cup of flour and beat well. Dough should be rather soft, sticky, and just firm enough to handle. If necessary, gradually stir in sufficient remaining flour to make shaggy, barely manageable dough. 4. Cover w/ plastic wrap & chill overnight. (Impt: at least 1 hour!) 5. Heat oil/fat to exactly 360° F. 6. Scrape half of chilled dough onto floured work surface: Push, pat, roll to make a mass about ½-inch thick. Cut doughnuts w/ flured doughnut cutter. Set doughnuts & holes on a lightly floured baking sheet. Repeat procedure w/ other half of chilled dough. 7. Fry about 4 doughnuts and hole at a time. Gently drop them into hot fat (yes, lard will give the most authentic old-fashioned flavour!), and invert them only once as they rise to the surface and puff. They will need about 2 to 3 minutes until golden brown all over. Remove from pan using a wire mesh strainer (you want as little fat adhering to them as possible), and drain them on absorbent paper – I use brown craftpaper. 8. While they’re still warm, toss in Cinnamon Sugar, if desired.

WHITE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE Non-gelatin mousse to which lime zest may be added as a sensational accompaniment to fresh berries -- or, as is, in a chocolate-hazelnut terrine. 9 oz. white chocolate (I use Lindt), cut into pieces 1 oz. water 1½ oz. Kirsch 12 oz. cream (35% M.F.) 1. If you are moulding your mousse, lightly oil the mould. 2. Combine the chocolate, the water, and the Kirsch in a bowl set over hot, not simmering, water. (White choc is a bit temperamental and requires extra care when melting.) Stir frequently until melted & smooth. Do not leave the choc unattended; it would burn almost in the blink of an eye. Once melted, it should look creamy & be very smooth. Remove promptly from the heat and allow to cool to room temp. 3. Whip the cream to soft peaks. Fold into the choc mixture. Immediately pour into the prepared mould or individual serving glasses. Chill the mousse until 15 minutes prior to serving.

Bolo di Rum On the Dutch island of Curaçao, the word ‘bolo’ can describe either a pudding or a cake. This particular rum cake can be served w/ frosting, sprinkled w/ confectioners’ sugar, or accompanied by a sauce. But, in the Caribbean, it’s traditionally served unadorned. Although I've served it with my own mango ice cream! 4½ ounces sweet butter, softened 2 Tbsps plus 1½ cups all-purpose flour 1 cup granulated sugar (or golden caster would be a delicious substitute) 4 large eggs 2 ounces dark rum 1½ ounces freshly squeezed lime juice, strained Zest of 1 lime ½ cup yellow cornmeal 2 tsps baking powder Preheat your oven to 350° F. Spread ½ ounce of butter over bottom & sides of 8-inch springform. Dust pan evenly w/ 2 tbsps flour; tap out excess. Cream remaining butter. Add the sugar, creaming until light in colour & fluffy in texture. Beat in the eggs, one at a time. Add the rum, the lime juice, the zest, and continue to beat on low speed until the batter is smooth. Sift together the dry ingredients, then add to the butter mixture ½ cup at a time. Mix until just incorporated. Pour the batter into prepared pan and bake about 50 minutes, or until tester inserted in center comes out clean. Allow the cake to cool for a couple of hours before removing the sides of the pan.

Several of my all-time fav. Madeleine sponge flavours are Lavender, Lemon-Almond, Pistachio, and Emily Luchetti's rich Brown-Butter version provides a delicate nutty flavour & aroma. Also, Chocolate-Frosted Orange Madeleines (qualifiying as something of a guilty pleasure because they remind me of... Orange Lu Pim's!) Please consider these preparation tips: *Be certain to butter-&-flour the moulds – and invert the pans in order to rap them briskly to remove excess flour! *Whisk the eggs & sugar until the mixture is tepid (about 98° F.) promptly remove from the heat. Don't beat the eggs too much or you'll lessen the sought-after hump on the Madelienes. *Use cake flour for a more tender texture. *Be as gentle as possible when sifting the flour over the batter and folding it into the batter. (It really does not have to be completely incorporated; the less you can deflate the eggs when folding in the flour & cooled butter, the lighter your Madeleines will become. It is the butter, mind you, that is the real balloon-popper.) *Spoon the batter into the moulds until only ¾ full. *I quite agree w/ the contributor on this thread who recommeded a higher-than-usually-suggested oven temp. Preheat to the 425° to 450° F. range. Healy & Bugat (The French Cookie Book) go for a 475° F. oven! High temps ensure that a crust forms on the outside before the inside sets. *After removing the pans from the oven, take the cookies out of the moulds immediately, by rapping the upside-down pan sharply on a work surface: the Madeleines ought to come tumbling out. *Dust the Madeleines w/ powdered sugar while they are still warm, they again when cool. *The authentic Proustian tea to drink w/ Madeleines is...Lime-Leaf. Then, expectantly, await a flood of memories to wash over your mind.

Ossa da Mordere cookies -- the name of which is translated as "bones to chew." For shaping, gather about 2½ tbsps of dough in the floured palm of your hand & roll it into a 2½- by ½-inch dowel or logshape. Cover with a clean towel and let sit overnight. Remove dowels from cookie sheet and lay on a floured pastry board. Cut 1½ inches long and return to cookie sheet. Bake until they are a light golden brown. Remove from sheets and allow to cool. You'll need to use a recipe that calls for finely chopped nuts, such as almonds, to help add extra crunchiness to the baked product. Although you intend to use them for teething, keep in mind that they always taste great dipped in sweet wine! Also refer to this page: http://www.italianfoodforever.com/iff/news.asp?id=193

I own & treasure every volume written by the wonderful Beth Hensperger. Her ouevre is enthusiastically recommended. BTW, if you choose to purchase a copy of Nancy Silverton's La Brea Bakery, be prepared to order commercial sourdough starter (homemade starter is okay, but it lacks Lactobacillus sanfranciso, which is the essential bacteria unique to providing truly authentic Bay Area sourdough bread w/ its characteristic flavour.) You can also hope to obtain proven cultures by either begging or buying from your acquaintances. The real secret is to combine potato starter w/ the San Francisco starter when you mix the dough. The robust potato culture will make your loaves light, whlie the flavourful but wimpy San Francisco culture gives the bread its proper tang. King Arthur Flour in Vermont will be happy to sell you their sourdough wheat & rye starters; but I think that they are shipped only in the cooler months, from Nov. to May. Further to Silverton: She's very artisanally minded on the subject of the most advantageous yeast to use; she disdains active dry yeast, saying that it makes bland-tasting bread. She functions in a strong sourdough mindset, which is thoroughly justifiable in her commercial position. A veritable treasure-trove of breadmaking knowledge is Bernard Clayton's New Coimplete Book of Breads. This volume is highly recommended. I have been making bread for the past 25 years, having learned the basic skills from my father who baked 99 hand-shaped loaves per day in woodfired brick ovens for several years in the 1940s.

A variety of titles on both Austrian & German cookery are available here: http://www.biggsuperstore.com/austriancookbooks.htm

I last made pound cake in the Spring (dividing the batter into 4 loaf pans, each about 3½- x 7-inches). After baking, allow the pound cake(s) to rest in the pan(s) for about 5 minutes; then, using a slender wooden skewer, perforate the top(s) all over w/ 1-inch holes. Immediately pour a liqueur-spiked simple syrup over the surface(s). Besides rum, you can flavour the syrup w/ Amaretto or Frangelico liqueur. Also try Orange, Raspberry, or Cherry flavours. Alternatively, if you opt to have an added rum sensatiion, you may serve any cake you choose w/ an accompaniment of Rum Cream: 2 egg yolks ½ cup granulated sugar 2 cups heavy cream 1 ounce dark rum (such as Appleton Estate or Myers) In bowl of stand mixer, blend the egg yolks & sugar; set aside. In medium saucepan, bring the cream and rum to a gentle simmer, and pour half of the hot liquid into the eggs-sugar mixture, beating vigorously. Pour this mixture back into the remaining cream, stirring quite vigorously in order to incorporate just to the point of thoroughness. Cook over moderate heat, until the mixture coats the back of a spoon, 4-5 minutes. Strain the rum cream into a serving pitcher.

A suitable birthday version of Red Velvet Cake is printed in commonly found Hershey's Chocolate Lover's Cookbook. It's made w/ cocoa powder and buttermilk and calls for 1 tablespoon of red food colour. The layer cake may be covered w/ the suggested Fluffy Vanilla Frosting. Here is a retail source for all-natural, vegan food colouring: http://tinyurl.com/5cxgn

On the subject of powerful, new stand-mixers, have any of this forum's contributors used the awesome 7-qt., 1000 (!) watt Viking model? (It lists in the USD $500-$600 range.) Please refer to the manufacturer's press release: http://www.vikingrange.com/whatsnew/stand_mixer_press.html

Seek out the June 2004 issue of Australian Gourmet Traveler: On page 186 there is printed a recipe for Golden Syrup-and-Date Steamed Pudding served w/ Vanilla Bean Custard. The article, “The Sugar Club” – in which this recipe is comprised – is a delightful read. Also, you may access an online resource on various sweeteners: http://www.sugarindia.com/default.htm

I have baked this Red-Beet Chocolate Cake once every August for 20 of the past 25 years: 1¾ cups all-purpose flour 1½ tsp. Baking soda ½ tsp. Salt 1½ cups granulated sugar 3 large eggs 1 cup vegetable oil 1½ cups cooked, puréed beets* 2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, melted & cooled 1 tsp. Vanilla extract You know the procedure. Pour batter into greased 13 x 9 x 2” pan. Bake in preheated 350° F. oven for 25 minutes, or until cake test done. Cool in pan on wire rack. Cover loosely and let stand overnight to further develop flavour. Dust servings w/ confectioner’s sugar. Children also love this dessert – accompanied w/ ice cream, of course. This cake has a deep chocolate colour and a surprisingly mild flavour. *Besides fresh corn cobs, I always cook beets in a pressure cooker.

I've been looking through my journal, and over the past 7 or 8 years I've made numerous recipes using lavender. One contributor to this thread mentioned her mother having used lavender to flavour a raspberry lemonade; I also have enjoyed that delightful combination! I prepared a Lavender Syrup by steeping 2 Tbsps fresh blossoms (I grow English lavender plants near my herb garden each summer) in a simple syrup for about 25 minutes. Strain, chill and use to sweeten ice tea as well. Altenatively, one could use lavender sugar in pound cakes, and berry muffins. Additonally, I've baked Lavender-Almond Tuiles and Madeleines à la Lavande (the latter of which sparks the notion that you ought to try scenting a génoise batter w/ lavender, as that is the traditional base for the tea cakes). Furthermore, you'll experience a heavenly taste in soaking just-cooked crèpes in a hot Lavender-Orange Sauce (spiked w/ Cointreau). Also: Blueberries & Raspberries in Lavender Cream (from Susan Belsinger's "Cooking with Flowers"). Crème Glacée au miel de Lavande (from Robert Carrier’s "Feasts of Provence"). And, did you know that Lavender Crème Brûlée, although thought of as French, is actually Creole in origin? Such an elegant dessert! Finally, I've used the dried blossoms in shortbread. BTW, English lavender (Lavandla angustifolia, aka 'Vera') is the most common of the two dozen lavender varieties. Its aroma is sweeter and more delicate than that of spike lavender, also called Spanish or Portuguese lavender. Spike lavender is primarily grown commercially for the perfume and soap industries to extend the more costly Engl. variety. As a culinary herb, lavender flowers and leaves may be used to flavour honey, vinegar, pork, lamb, game, jellies, cookies, and fruit. They also impart a distinct component element to Herbs de Provence.

Re crème pâtissière storage times…. Let's remember that properly defrosting desserts is as important as properly freezing them. Elinor Klivans ("Bake and Freeze Desserts") instructs: * Cool desserts before freezing them. * Keep freezer as close to 0° F. as possible. * Use suitable materials for packaging & wrap packages well. * Label desserts w/ date. * Store desserts inside the freezer, not on door shelves. * Defrost correctly. Klivans, a true-blue expert in these matters, recommends 3 weeks as the maximum time that pastry cream "can be stored in the freezer w/out losing quality." Yet, as Sinclair has astutely noted above, this standard must agree w/ your own gold standard in terms of any appreciable difference in original quality of the product. Now, please take a few moments to consider the testimonies of the following food-world notables: Pierre Hermé stipulates that pastry cream can be kept successfully in the refrigerator "for 2 days." Gaston Lenôtre teaches that Chocolate, Coffee, and Vanilla Pastry Creams “will keep for a maximum of 2 days in the refrigerator in a tightly sealed container.” He says that almond pastry cream will keep in the refrigerator for “up to 8 days.” Nick Malgieri believes that pastry cream should be used "by the end of the following day" of its preparation. And, likewise, Ann Amernick. Ditto the food technologist, Hilary Walden. Emily Luchetti tells us that it will keep for "several days" refrigerated. Nancy Silverton's experience revealed that it "keeps refrigerated for seven to ten days." Nevertheless, Carole Bloom writes that pastry cream, while it will keep "well-covered in the refrigerator, for up to 4 days," she stresses that "it cannot be frozen.' I must look up Jim Dodge's position on this subject. Since graduating from cooking school 15 years ago, my view has remained basic: Pastry cream can be frozen successfully if either the flour or cornstarch is increased slightly to create a thicker cream. Thin creams will tend to separate upon thawing. There is also the factor of whether you have added an alcoholic spirit to the cream prior to freezing the mixture. Does freezing diminish the quality of food? Quoting from Howard Hillman's book Kitchen Science: "The answer is undeniable yes. When frozen food thaws, some of its stored water seeps out its cells, and consequently the cells lose their plumpness and the food its firmness. The water loss is caused by the creation fo ice crystals and the lost of osmotic capability." Howard McGee concurs in his classic, "On Food & Cooking" -- to wit, "There are more consequences in this anomaly than are immediately apparent." Logically, our attention is reverted to the proper storage details outlined by Klivans, supra.

Add fresh blueberries to cream scones, lemon-yogurt cheesecake, or a compote comprising cantaloupe, peaches, and pears. Look forward to eating a Buckle, a Brown Betty, a Grunt, a Blueberry-Lemon Custard Tart, fresh churned Ice Cream, a Bread Pudding Soufflé. Use them in Jasper White's delicious Brown Bread Pancakes. One of the breakfast staples in my refrigerator is Whole-Blueberry Syrup which I make every 2-3 weeks year round and spoon most commonly onto my porridge, or, occasionally, onto Belgian Waffles. (I freeze 40-50 pounds of wild blueberries every August.) Prepare a Raspberry-Blueberry Crème Fraîche Tart. Emily Luchetti's Blueberry Steamed Pudding (printed in Stars Desserts) -- puts forth the full spiced impact of cooked blueberries. One of the most memorable blueberry desserts I've enjoyed at a hotel restaurant: Blueberry-Orange Compote w/ Lemonade Sauce & Cinnamon I.C. The compote was served in a crisp cookie cup. For the savoury table, add fresh blueberries to a prepared Veal Ragout. Surprisingly compatible flavours!

Blackberry-&-Apple Pie -- one of the classics of England in late Summer, when the hedgerows are full of blackberries. It will bring a tear to the eye of the staunchest expatriate. (I use Empire apples.) Use plums & blackberries for a less-sweet variation on strawberry shortcakes. Enhance the fruit-compote filling w/ Crème de cassis. The flavour of blackberries also succeeds in fruit concoctions which include melon. Top a custard tart w/ blackberries & raspberries. Serve them atop maple crème brûlée or, as Nicole Routhier suggests, a margarita mousse. Mix 1½ cups berries w/ 1 cup granulated sugar & 1/3 cup blackberry brandy; let stand for 2-3 hours; then stir into vanilla I.C. base. Make a seedless jam and use it as filling for a walnut torte. Bake a fresh Blackberry Cobbler and serve it w/ Peach I.C. The local red (& yellow) raspberry season has concluded. I'll be picking wild blackberries next week!