Ore

Ciao, Another special event to report about... I just got back from Taurasi, a fairly well known town whose name is famous for the great red wine made from the Aglianico grape (Taurasi!). The event was held for Italian Journalists and the release of the 2001 Taurasi that will be on the market soon. Here is a shot of the town about 2 km away - the zone of wine called Taurasi is fairly large, but the town is not very big. When entering the town, I was glad to see this sign (the one underneath). We cooked at Agricultura 'Taurasi'. This place was nice - over the mantle they had a $1 bill for good luck (I thought that was funny!). The kitchen was nice and clean so I was happy - and the fireplace made the dining room very comfortable. Just before we started the meal, I snuck out and took some photos of the vines. There were still many 'old' style trellis systems. This type (below) was the most common. I am six feet tall - the vines must have been at least three feet above my head. How do they pick these grapes!?! The more modern methods are in place now - but I am not sure if that is a good thing or bad! It was almost the same lineup of restaurants as last weeks Olio di Oliva di Ravece festival. It was us (La Locanda du Bu), Oasis and La Maschera. The first plate to exit the kitchen was a mouth watering sampler plate of antipasti. Each restaurant put a tiny taste on the plate. Here it is.. Starting on the right - Oasis started off with an amazingly technical taste. This was (Italian first) Coniglio in Porchetta su Letto di Scarola, Pomodori Secchi, Olive Nere e Aceto Invecchiato di Casa con Olio Extravergine di Ravece...(English) Rabbit in Porchetta (boned, rolled & roasted), Escarole, Sun Dried Tomatoes, Black Olives and Aged Vinegar with EVOO of Ravece. Garnished with a dried lemon slice. All you can see is the rabbit - there were three slices - one underneath, the filling of all the veg., and two to cover the filling - then the vinegar and the oil. I thought this taste was trully amazing. I had three 'tastes' as there was plenty to go around after the guests were served. The 'porchetta' was very, very well done. Seasoned well and extremely tender rabbit - yumm! The escarole and other ingredients brought the bitter, salty and acidic flavors needed to counterbalance the rabbit - good job Oasis! The center taste was from La Locanda di Bu. It was a Panino ai Cereali e Baccala. Simply, a house made roll (chickpeas, cicerchia and corn meal) - the filling was salt cod whipped with EVOO, potatoes, olives, red peppers under vinegar and capers - very yummy and simple. The taste to the left was from La Maschera. I liked this taste as well. (Italian)Metamorfosi di Insalata di Rinforso (a Revision of the Rinforso Salad?) some type of plate shared around Christmas time - The martini glass consisted of Cauliflower Cream, Black Olive Sauce, a Tartare of Green Olives, Red Peppers under Vinegar, Anchovie and a Dehydrated Crispy Skin of Baccala. The plate was well done - not a BOOM like Oasis - but very good. The next plate out was the Cecalucoli from La Locanda di Bu. There is a picture of this pasta dish somewhere in these pages - I remember posting it a while back (don't want to bore you!!) - Basiclly, a Cavatelli pasta with Cherry Tomatoe Sauce, Lardo and Onion - Ricotta Salata to finish. This again was a simple, but bold flavor - I guess we were there to instill the bold, easy plates! Next up was La Maschera with the main dish. This dish created a lot of controversy in the kitchen between all the chefs and cooks. This dish consisted of - Filetto di Maiale Gratinato alle Erbette Odorose con Mousse di Finocchio all'Anice Stellato e Insalata di Bucce d'Arancia Fritto. Pork Tenderloin Crusted with Aromatic Bread Crumbs, a Fennel and Star Anise Mousse & a Salad of Fried Orange Zest. The plate was great - IMHO - amazing - the Mousse was very flavorful and light, the fried zest was robust and refreshed the palate - and the PORK was perfect. Lino, the Chef, had the balls to serve the Pork (which his father butchers) Rare to Med. Rare. I thought it was the right way to serve it too! In Italy though, it is very hard to get the crowd to eat it. That wasn't the problem - all the plates in the dining room came back clean - they ate it all - but the chefs in the kitchen would'nt stop bitching about how pork should NOT be served RAW like that. It was perfect in texture, in flavor - all the way around. Maybe that jealousy thing was going around again!! The dessert was done by Oasis - it was a spin off of last weeks dolce - the Mille Foglie two or three posts back - it looked exactly the same so take a look at post 106 (I think) for the pic. - this time it was crema alla vaniglia and it had home made Amarenna (sour cherries) as a topping. The journalists all had a chance to taste the new Taurasi 2001 that will be coming out soon. If you really want to know what they thought - PM me!! Ciao, Ore

Ciao, I was gifted a bottle of brandy last night by a very generous, new, restaurant owner near Avellino (in a town called Montefalcione). The bottle is of Brandy Avellino and from what I know - is made in a school of fermentation sciences or the such. Here are a few pictures to help the ID. They say the bottle is very rare - there is no date on it - what you see is what you get. I noticed that in the bottom of the bottle - there seems to be "stuff" sitting down there...what is it? A good or bad sign?? Grazie, Ore The pics... The label - made in Salerno? This is the 'tax' label ( I think) - My bottle is number 107? The whole bottle view Another label shot Ciao

Ciao, I'VE GOT A NEW FRUIT TO IDENTIFY HERE... This bush is said to grow at the house of the parents of my chefs wife. The fruits are small - about the size of marbels - the unripe ones are still firm to the touch - the ripe fruits are extremely musshy (maybe over ripe!) The flavor is sweet/acidic and did not attract me for a second taste - IMHO it looks much better then it tastes. What do you think (or KNOW) it is!?! A very close up shot! Another view - further a way - but still up close! Ciao, Ore

Ciao, So my chef ate there last night with his wife. They were surprised by a bottle of champagne (that we (the kitchen crew here in Nusco) bought for them with the help of Tonino, who I am guessing is the Maitre d'). My chef said that overall the dinner was good. They were served four savory plates and two sweet plates. I am pretty sure he said they had the tasting menu but that doesn't seem like many plates. The highlights for him were the desserts. He mentioned a souffle that was done very well - as for the savory plates - all were ok for the Sorrento scene...FOR HIM. Lets not forget he is a chef - I think maybe a bit jealous of the star recently given to Buco - so maybe his reaction is weighted. If I have the time - I will try to get there before I leave the area. Ciao, Ore

Where in the LA area is it??

Ciao, DOC, that was a piece of Cotechino - it may have been raw as the plates I took photos of were about an hour before service (for the FOH staff) - because I also knew I wouldn't have time during service to snap the shots. The potatoes were great - their texture could have used some help as they were a bit gummy for my Americano preferences of mashed potatoes but they were good. The beets added more color than flavor. Here in Italy (haven't seen it in the states) you can buy your beets cooked and cryovacked in a 2 beet bag - thats what we did (timing) - put them into a blender and folded it into the potatoes. For about 120 potatoes, we pureed 4 beets - you saw the results - ALSO.... HAS anyone ever noticed the EXTREME resemblance in skin between a LYCHEE and a TRUFFLE?????? The fruttivendolo (veg. vendor) in Nusco had a small case last week from Madagascar. I bought a few at 7 Euro per Kilo and noticed the similarity right away. Do they have anything in common?? If so, I can't put any info they may share together - one grows on a tree, the other in dirt, one sweet/tangy - the other truffly! Let me know!! Ciao, Ore

just checked tram times from athen airport to downtown - all are unavailable to me - looks like i am staying in the airport Ore

Ciao, So - flights are confirmed - a bought my tix from Rome to Athens - Athens to Tel-Aviv (round trip) for 380 Euro on Olympic Airlines - cheapest I could find from Expedia.it. All other tickets started around 480 Euro - Depart 20/12 at 19:15 - arrive athens at 22:15. So - FIRST QUESTION...Anywhere good to eat here in Athens?? My flight to Israel is at 01:15 so that means I have a quick 3 hours to find something good. All airport food might be closed at this late hour. But, the city is 33 KM away - I might be trapped in the airport!! Anyone been to Athen Int'l ?? Second questions...Any new or updated places I must eat at while in Israel? Can/Should I rent a car? I am 22 and dont recall the age rules for Israel - will be in Israel until Jan. 12 Ok, thats it! Ciao, Ore

Ciao, I want to get a better sence of their food...with a scor of 77 in GR - how does that reflect their plates? Is it a more creative place? Classical? Ingredient focus? Ore

Ciao, My Shipudim are chicken thighs - skin on (gets nice and crispy). Other ingredients are olive oil, salt, pepper, cumin, turmeric, lemon juice and chopped parsley. I marinate the chix in the oil and spices (all but salt). Then, two hours later i skewer them, season with salt - and grill - Most important in my opinion is a smokin hot grill - i preheat for 20 or 30 minutes - then change to low and put the meat on the grill - although charcoal would be best! Ciao, Ore (grilled onions, peppers and whole tomatoes would go best with this, as well as some good pita bread...I can't wait for Israel!!)

Come on...a quick drove from LA area to SF can take around 7 hours - not that bad - I have done it a countless number of times for good wine and Gary Danko! Ore

Ciao, Thursday, Dec. 3, 2004, the olive oil of Ravece was awarded DOP status. Planned was a week long festa that included a grand banquet for 200 guests and oil experts/gov't officials. Of the five restaurants participating, the one I work at was included. Below is the menu/comments about the event. Olio di Ravece in my opinion is one of the greatest tasting olive oils available. My two favorite Frantoios are Hirpus and Coprovoli. The oil is extremely pungent and forte - adding a tremendous effect to any plate that needs a bit of life. Olio di Ravece comes from the Campania region and more regionally from the Ariano Irpinia region. The first course for the banquet was an antipasto of vegetables and cured meat. It was provided by Ristorante Incontro, where the banquet was held. I thought this dish was the worst to start off with - as it was the most 'banquet like'. The broccoli was brown and nasty looking and the plate was garnished mindlessly with a handful of crappy chopped parsley (IMHO). Next up was a La Pignata, a restaurant from Ariano Irpinia. The plate was Pan Cotto con Erbe di Campa - Cime e Baccala in English...Cooked Stale Bread with Herbs, a type of bitter green and salt cod. The third course was from La Maschera in Avellino. The dish consisted of... Macaroncelli al Branzo con Cavalo Broccolo, Passata di Lenticchie, Cotecchino, Crocante di Cacciocavalo Podolico - basically, this dish consisted of a Maccaroni Timbale covered by the leaves of broccoli - it sat on a lentil soup and was garnished with a crispy cheese tuile. The fourth course was from La Locanda di Bu in Nusco (where I work). The plate consisted of Puree di Patate e Carrota Rosso (Barbabiettole) con Brassato di Podolico, Cipolla Affumicato, e Salsa di Ravece e Broccoli. Beet Mashed Potatoes with Braised Beef, Smoked Onion and Ravece Oil Broccoli Sauce. I thought our dish was good - some of the braised meat dried up a bit because the chef wanted to separate the meat from the sauce to plate easier and faster - other than that, it was good - and the color of the potatoes really freaked everyone out!! That was the main course - here is a shot of Vinny, one of the guys I work with, taking control of the braise - Here is another kitchen shot - this one is of Lino, the chef from La Maschera in Avellino. The pre-dessert was made by Oasis. I started a topic in the Baking and Pastry section to find out more about this dolce - it was truly amazing - life changing. It was a Mousse di Yogurt di Bufala e Olio di Ravece - a Mousse from Bufala Yogurt and Ravece olive oil The dessert was also made by Oasis - it was a Millefoglie con Crema Casalinga, Granella di Nociolle, e Cioccolata Fondente al Olio di Oliva Ravece - both were great - and pictured below. That wraps up the event - afterwards there was an awards ceremony where the chefs were all recognized and given awards - the oil is great - if you get a chance, do buy a bottle and support this new DOP product. Ciao, Ore

My chef is eating there Monday night for his wedding anniversary - I will report back his experience!! Ore (MG - any good sparkling wines you can recall from the list?)

Ciao, The other week I was working (cooking) at Mastroberardino in Atripalda (AV), Italy. Near the kitchen there were about thirty barrels that were being 'cleaned' with sulfur. Is this a normal practice? What does the reaction between the sulfur and oak create? Is there any kind of taste effect on the wine? Is this where the preservative is picked up? (Sulfites, off of the oak?) This is what I saw: So, I am actually guessing the SOLF. means sulfur (other than the smell!). Grazie, Ore

Ciao, Not much new to report about here in Nusco. It is cold, but hasn't snowed yet. I leave my stage here in 20 days - I will be visiting some family in Israel for a few days and then coming right back to Italy for a new stage. Unfortunately, I am still unceartin of the location!!! (exciting!) I can say though that the restaurant has been busier since the 2005 guides have come out. I don't think we made it onto the Michellin list but there is always next year for Tonino (chef). Ciao, Ore

Ciao, Something new I have just discovered...While reading the Heinz Beck cookbook (cover of a fried Zucchini flower and Saffron Consome), as many pictures as Heinz Beck is in, so is Donatto (the Chef of Marenna, ad well as two other cooks in Marenna's kitchen - also the Maitre'd is in the group photo. This must have seriously been a La Pergola to Feudi di San Gregorio exchange - Heinz Beck sending his top people. Wow, Ore

Ciao, From what I have 'heard', Il Buco has won! a Michellin Star!!! Congrats! Ore

So, Now that I have all the knife experts peering in...I ran into something quite strange for me - with my Brieto M11-Pro It is a Molybdenum Vanadium Steel blade - when I first got it, about a year ago from Korin, it had a normal (2 sided) blade. About 4 months ago I changed it to a one side blade - and it works just as well, if not better. Last week, I saw something strange though. It looked as if shards of the actual blade, as thin as foil, were comming off. I turned it back into a normal blade (two sides), and i made the shards go away, by cleaning and a tiny bit more sharpening on the 8000 grit - any help on what the hell the shards are caused by!?! Is the knife done?? Is the blade too thin? (can it be too thin?!?) Thanks! Ore

Inventolux, I am very happy for you and your family there at Moto - that must be the most rewarding thing - to know...just to know! Very cool! I wonder if Chicago is the right place for me!?! Ore

Ciao, the ultimate dunk 'surprise'...when you first drop one of your favorite cookies into the milk - and let it sink to the bottom (or help it) - and then continue dunking and eating the rest, like you normally do - then. when all done (sad) and you drink the milk, you end up with the smooshiest, yummiest cookie - ahh - i love great endings (but you will always need a bit more liwuid to cleanse the palate!) Ore

Ciao, I am def. going to have to try this place before I leave this area! Myabe the 'ravioli' you mentioned was Paccheri (check out the Marenna' review for a photo). Thick pasta - tubular - open at the ends. The fish course you mentioned in the first report, the codfish that wasn't cod - do you know what it was - maybe salt cod (baccala)? Great report though - what kind of wines did you enjoy there? Bank breakers or was the list well priced? Where about town is this place? Grazie! Ore

does anyone here know if Oliveto or chef paul read any of these posts - maybe they should get a 'secret' email! maybe that would help them?! I have always heard great things, but have always read (here) bad things! strange!

Ciao Arthur, You might remember me, I am the 'americano' working with Antonio Pisaniello at La Locanda di Bu! How are you!?! Tonino says hello and wants to know when you will be inviting him to the US!! I want to know what you are doing now. I know you are consulting now, but what else is keeping you busy? How is the restaurant scene now in NYC - and throughout the US? Have the recent elections changed anything in the way of people dining out, etc.? well, thanks for being here on eGullet! Check out my signature links for my blog! Ciao, Ore

Ciao, What is really amazing is that I met the Shere's at a Mexican beer and Tequila stand where Mr. Shere was enjoying a tasting of tequilas. We spoke for about ten minutes about random stuff, and went on our seperate ways - funny - they were very cool before the post - now they are even cooler! Ciao, Ore (still working on my post!)

The Baccala may have been - but I dont think it was - I think the Paco Jet was used for the soup because of its fine texture - but I cant promise that!