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liuzhou

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Everything posted by liuzhou

  1. Here is another version in straw form. Almost the same ingredients. They smell awful and the one broken bit I tasted lived down to the promise of the smell. And they tasted stale. Truly revolting.
  2. Whether you buy into the theory that the Romans brought fish sauce to Asia along the Silk Road or you prefer the alternative, that it was invented independently, there is no denying the importance fish and fish sauces had in the Roman Empire and therefore Europe. It is certain that the Greeks introduced garos to the Romans who Latinised it into garum. The problem is that no one is entirely sure what garum was. Later, the Romans started talking about a fish sauce they called liquamen. Was this simply garum renamed and if so, why? And what was haimation? The famous 4th century CE cookbook referred to as Apicius includes numerous dishes using liquamen but only mentions garum in passing. Garum then disappeared in the 5th century, to be followed by liquamen soon after, coinciding almost with the fall of the Empire. There is a detailed account of the historical and linguistic confusion and uncertainties here. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s11457-018-9211-5 Well worth a read if you are at all interested. I'll be looking into European fish sauces next, when I have time and the current eG access problem is resolved. But I won't be starting in Italy.
  3. I managed to photograph the ingredients list on a packet of these this morning. Are you ready? Ingredients : wheat flour, drinking water, vegetable oi, edible salt, sugar, irradiated spice, irradiated chili powder, food additives (sodium glutamate, Glyceryl monostearate, cyclamate, 5'- flavor nucleotides disodium, Sucralose, neotame, tert-butylhydroquinone, compound leavening agent (disodium dihydrogen pyrophosphate, sodium bicarbonate, monocalcium phosphate, calcium carbonate), curcuma longa, monascus red, capsicum red), food flavor. That is 'food flavor'; not food.
  4. liuzhou

    Breakfast 2024

    牛蛙皮蛋粥 (niú wā pí dàn zhōu), bullfrog and century egg congee. I cheated and had the market lady dispatch and chop the Lithobates for me. I didn't make the century eggs, either. I did cook everything, though. Chopped frog before cooking.
  5. liuzhou

    Recipe Bloopers

    I have been scratching my head over a recipe that advises me to "fry until the surface is raw, then pick up to control the oil." OK. If you insist!
  6. liuzhou

    Fish Sauce

    I can see it as a dip in one of the many grilled meat / BBQ scenarios.
  7. liuzhou

    Fish Sauce

    Before leaving Asia, I have to mention this one fish sauce from Phú Quốc, Việt Nam. Two of the island's top producers have cooperated in makinfg a special sauce. BLiS and Red Boat have made a smoked type. They took "Red Boat 40°N and aged it in charred barrels for 7 months. The result is pretty extraordinary. It’s rich, smoky and peaty—and when I say smoky, I mean smoke for days. Like drinking Laphroaig around a campfire while smoking a brisket." This quote is from a review of fish sauces from this New Zealand site. https://foody.nz/blogs/news/fish-sauce-taste-test-13-brands-compared The tasting and subsequent write up are more considered than is often the case with this sort of internet page. A recommended read. I haven't, I'm sad to say, sampled this one but I am a Laphroaig fan. The hunt is on.
  8. liuzhou

    Breakfast 2024

    I'm not surprised. I'd never heard of them either. They are apparently restricted to South China. https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/Brief-Introduction-to-a-Unique-Edible-portentosus-Zhang-He/535f0f285eed5facfba3915261347642e6b6013f
  9. liuzhou

    Fish Sauce

    Maybe, but someone must be using it or they wouldn't be importing it or making it. Most of the fish sauce here in China is also imported. Anyway, I think I'm finished with Asian fish sauces.
  10. liuzhou

    Dinner 2024

    Pork tenderloin marinated with garlic, ginger, chilli, black salt fermented beans, Shaoxing wine. Stir fried with coriander leaf. Finished with soy sauce. Two minute boiled okra dressed with sesame oil. Rice.
  11. liuzhou

    Fish Sauce

    On second thoughts, perhaps top prize in the 'we don't care where our sauce comes from' challenge is Indonesia. Known as kecap ikan, their fish sauce is often just imported, re labeled Thai nam pla or Vietnamese nước mắm. There is real made in Indonesia fish sauce, but it seems to be a minority. This is one. Indonesian kecap ikan - limone.id So, be careful. Check where it's really from then check that it is 'ikan' which means 'fish'. Kecap on its own is soy sauce, but generally just means 'sauce ', of which there are many. Look out for kecap Inggris or kecap which is a popular Indonesian version of Worcestershire sauce. 'Inggris' means 'English. English sauce! It doesn't contain fish. English Worcestershire sauce contains anchovies. Note: They don't even care enough to spell their own language correctly on the label. Kecap Inggris - grandlagunashop.com
  12. liuzhou

    Fruit

    S: 红枣; T: Trad. 紅棗 (hóng zǎo), Ziziphus jujuba, jujubes, sometimes called Chinese dates despite being nothing like any date I've ever had. These are obviously fresh and for eating as is, but they are also sold dried in which case they are cooked in soups and hotpots.
  13. Uncooked rice is often used here when seasoning a new wok. It is 'stir-fried' in the dry wok between washing off the machine oil the woks are coated in for shipping and then the hot oil treatment. I've never been quite sure what the rice part actually does. If anything.
  14. To earn your badge of honour here in Liuzhou you'll need this. S: 螺蛳香料: T:螺螄香料 (luó sī xiāng liào), river snail spice. This is a mixture of spices considered essential for the cooking of the aforesaid gasteropods. That said, the precise necessity varies depending on the brand. It should be a selection from black cardamom, fennel seed, dried tangerine peel, cassia bark, cloves, pepper, bay leaf, licorice root, sand ginger, and star anise. Of course you'll need some snails, too. These are the local snails, now a major Chinese tourist attraction. The snails are stewed then eaten in a spicy dressing with the pack contents or, if you have 16 hours and some pig bones, you could make luosifen - no one ever does so at home. Here are the appropriate noodles. They are dried rice noodles made using 'old rice'; aged rice which makes firmer noodles with more bite.
  15. liuzhou

    Dinner 2024

    Thanks. Interesting. Just don't go looking for it in Beijing. 🤭
  16. liuzhou

    Fish Sauce

    This won't take long. Of all the fish sauce producing nations, the least fastidious about their sauce must be the Philippines. National pride doesn't seem to extend to their dinner table. Patis, as it's known in Filipino is made in the Philippines but some of their top brands are simply a Thai made nam pla with a Filipino label. True Filipino fish sauce is made from a variety of scad (related to mackerel), known locally as galunggong but to scientists as Decapterus macrosoma. It was originally just a by-product from the production of bagoong, meaning 'fermented fish'. A popular Filipino dish. The fish sauce is added to soups and used it various dishes, which will be described on menus as pinatisan, meaning 'cooked with patis'. The most common dip (sawsawan) is made by mixing fish sauce with chilli (sili) and calamansi / kalamansi, a citrus from which is a hybrid of kumquat and mandarin orange. A true Filipino brand is Rufina, often called Pufina, due to the ill-considered label design. Available on Amazon.
  17. liuzhou

    Dinner 2024

    Does the recipe call for maple syrup as some I've seen do?
  18. I don't mind cock's comb I've eaten them again since. I was just surprised that first time. Not what I was expecting.
  19. Way back in 2008, (16 years already?), I posted this. At that time, to get your hands on the Zhuang lemons you had to make them yourself or befriend a passing Zhuang, my preferred method. Since then, spurred on by the success of the restaurant chain I visited for lemon duck, some of the commercial sauce makers have started offering S: 咸柠檬; T: 鹹檸檬 (xián níng méng), salted lemons alongside their other sauces and condiments etc. Also, I have discovered that the people of Chaoshan, mentioned above and in the Fish Sauce topic, also use salted lemons. They even suggest adding slices to 7-Up and Lilt. I'm sure the Zhuang don't go there.
  20. liuzhou

    Fish Sauce

    So, I've mentioned the three most well-known fish sauces but there are more and, I'm sure, there will be even more in future as the Japanese reclaim their historical culinary heritage. Several enterprises are already doing so - almost all very small producers. I hesitate to use the overused term - artisanal - but can't think of a better one and I do think here it's appropriate. Before moving on to other fishy, sauce destinations I leave Japan with a bottle (one of several) I bought a couple of years ago in Tokyo's Haneda airport. Haku Iwashi Whisky Barrel Aged Fish Sauce. Incredible.
  21. liuzhou

    Fish Sauce

    Off the southeast corner of 本州島 (honshū shima) Honshū Island, Japan's largest is 四国島 (shikoku shima), Shikoku Island, Japan. On the northern shore of the island is 香川県 (kagawa ken), Kagawa Prefecture, home to a very different type of fish sauce. いかなご醤油 (ikanago shoyu) is made from いかなご (ikanago), a type of fish known in English as 'sand lance', Ammodytes personatus. Ikanago-shoyu - konbudoi.shop-pro.jp What sets this sauce apart is that instead of being fermented in the normal way using salt, the fish are fermented in 醤油 (shoyu), Japanese soy sauce in a ratio of two parts fish to one soy sauce. After 100 days, it is ready. This compares to the one to three years for traditionally made fish sauce. The sauce is saltier but less fishy than other fish sauces, but because of its more intense savoury umami-rich flavour is used in smaller qualities. I would describe it as a fish flavoured soy sauce at her than a soy flavoured fish sauce. This makes it a good dip for sashimi and sushi. It also wakes up soups and noodles. a couple of drops in your ramen is recommended. I have great memories of a dish of pickled wild mushrooms served with a ikanago-shoyu and ginger dip in Tokyo.
  22. liuzhou

    Fish Sauce

    The second major fish sauce from Japan comes from 能登半島 (noto hanjima), the Noto Peninsula in 石川県 (Ishikawa ken), Ishikawa Prefecture on Japan's west coast, about 4 hours from Tokyo by the famous high speed train. It also causes great confusion. The area produces two types of fish sauce: いしり (ishiri) and いしる (ishiru). Ishiri - kaneishi.com Ishiri is made from 烏賊 (ika) squid entrails on the east side of the peninsula while on the west they tend to make ishiru fish sauce from 鰯 (iwashi), sardines or サバ (saba), mackerel. Ishiru - six.matrix.jp Unfortunately, due to the similarity of the names and the fact that people use the two names and two sauces interchangeably, you can never be sure what you're getting. While Shottsuru is generally considered to be the premium sauce in Japan, that from Noto, by either name, has been the most produced. On New Year's Day 2024, Noto Peninsula was hit by a Mj7.6 magnitude earthquake which killed over 200 people, injured many more and caused widespread structural and infrastructural damage. Thousands are still camped in emergency shelters, two months later. Obviously, this had a major effect on sauce production, which mostly takes place in the winter months. What the long term holds is still uncertain.
  23. liuzhou

    Sea Hare

    No. They also list cuttlefish separately at a much higher price. Squid, cuttlefish and octopus are all very popular and easily obtainable here. They're not going to suddenly rename them and sell at half price!
  24. liuzhou

    Fruit

    I have come across a very local fruit. So local in fact that it has no English name that I've been able to find. The botanists are so excited they have given it the catchy name Campanumoea Lancifolia (Roxb.) Merr. [Campanula Lancefolia Roxb.] and a back up name Cyclotron lancifolius, and that's it apart from the Chinese name, Simp: 红果参; Trad: 紅果參(hóng guǒ shēn) which literally translates as 'red fruit ginseng' , although it is unrelated to ginseng. There is very little information on the website about this fruit in English, other than it is cultivated in southwest China. Guess where I am! The Chinese articles aren't much more enlightening. About 2.5 cm / one inch in diameter they have the texture of a particularly juicy apple and taste like a cross between a sweet pear and apple. Quite pleasant. Inside, they look like this.
  25. liuzhou

    Fish Sauce

    Japan, in a number of ways, exemplifies the rise, fall and rise of fish sauce in parts of Asia. It isn't known exactly how fish sauce arrived in East Asia. There are claims it was brought by the Romans to China. Alternatively, it could have been developed independently. Or both. Whatever, it was certainly a major sauce in parts of China, which introduced it to Japan and Korea. In the 14th century, soy sauce started to oust it and by the 16th century fish sauce was almost extinct in those countries. Only in recent years, has there been a revival, with small enterprises reviving old recipes and techniques. Interest, fuelled in part by tourism, is growing. Today, the three major types of fish sauce in Japan are しょっつる (shottsuru), いしり (ishiri) / いしる ishiru and いかなご醤油 (ikanaga shoyo). Shottsuru (しょっつる) 秋田 (Akita) is a relatively small city in the prefecture of the same name on the northwestern coast of Japan's largest island, 本州 Honshū. The local fisherman's main catch was ハタハタ (hatahata), Japanese sandfish, Arctoscopus japonicus . Hatahata - oganavi.com Shottsuru made from hatahata was revived and put into production by around 1980. By the early 90s catches had declined dramatically due to overfishing and today most shottsuru is made using 鰯 (iwashi) - sardines. Hatahata populations have somewhat revived, but the fish is rarely consumed today. Shottsuru - nihonmono.jp Shottsuru is paler and milder than many fish sauces (as are most Japanese types) and can be used as a dip for おにぎり - onigiri rice balls, served with うどん - udon noodles, mixed into ラーメン - ramen, added to 炒め物 - stir-fries, etc.
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