Paula Jonvik

I guess it must be a case of different strokes for different folks. I am not sure what you found uncomfortable about it, but I'm intrigued - was it the seats, or where you were sitting? I was wondering, how much did you expected to spend, how much _did_ you spend, and what wine were you drinking? Personally I would struggle to call the food bland, even though I have had a couple of times when I have not been over-excited about the food on the menu exceptionnel and the one time I went a la carte, although balance that with the fact that I have dined at LG about twenty times in the past couple of years. I wonder if you were dining a la carte or the Menu Exceptionel? Regarding the two stars, IMHO I have no problem in regarding it as a fair evaluation - I would actually put it at 2.7 stars if there was the choice. I agree with you about this, although to be honest I don't even notice the card on the table any more or the books at reception. I can't say that it iritates me in the way you obviously are! I witnessed an interesting situation in LG last week. An seemingly well-moneyed chap of the old money variety close to retirement was entertaining three other gentlemen, and what can only be described as their 'escorts' for the evening. They were hitting the Dom Perignon and Petrus in a big way. Rather than ordering their starters & mains at the beginning of the meal, they ordered the starters, consumed them, then had the menu back, then ordered their mains. They then decided that they'd complain that they'd had to wait too long for their mains. Silvano tried to explain that the food was prepared and timed to reflect ordering all together at the start of the meal, but it fell on deaf ears. By the way, LG has been completely non smoking in the restaurant since the beginning of the year. If you want a smoke, you must go upstairs to the bar. The old sofa area is now used for dining, and the spots adjacent the kitchen door that sometimes draw criticism are no longer used for dining. Cheers, Howard ← I'm with you on this one Mr. Long... I can't understand it either? But as you so aptly put it, "Different strokes...". I'd just like to add- What exactly would the fine dining scene in London, or England for that matter be like if it hadn't been for the Roux's? Can you say SHITE on this site? As for the pimping of collectibles, I would hazard a guess that these are on offer to try to curb the hundreds, possibly thousands of pounds sterling worth of the exact items being stolen from the restaurant by diners annually. I never see the merchandise carte when I am there, because I am having too good of a time eating, drinking and being merry... I can't imagine being so bored there that I would have to resort to reading the merchandise carte? Can you still enjoy a cigar there? Glad to hear they shuffled things around in the dining room. Paula

Hello Pweaver: Haven't been to the new property- yet. As far as reviews, I haven't seen or heard a peep, but then, I expect everything to be absolutely magnificent! Michel Roux Jr has 100% input, as the restaurant is of his creation and design. Several of his Gavroche team have transfered to Maritius to run the place. The most important thing to remember is that the local of this restaurant is due W-SW from the terrible Tsunami... even though no damage was sustained (just high surf) it is a possibility that it might take a little while for LGdT to settle in and really get going... I predict that LGdT will become a very popular dining haunt for people who visit the island paradise. Michel has also (early 2004) opened the Walbrook Club in the city of London, and was also consulting for a friend of his who has a Sports Bar/Bistro down Clapham way. Paula

My apologies! I didn't realize that a person had to fit a certain description to enjoy fine service, great food and value for money (aside from no jeans, tennis shoes and t-shirts)! Please disregard my suggestion and enjoy your lunch wherever you end up... But I'm telling you, your preconcieved notions about Le Gavroche are, imho, wrong. They delight in what they do, and I for one, would be proud to set up a lunch for my collegues there... Your's might surprise you, given the opportunity! Paula P.S. Just ask Howard Long about Le Gavroche...... He'll tell ya! This is one of the best set lunch deals in the city... you can kill more birds with this stone than any other!

... May I recommend Le Gavroche at 43 Upper Brook Street in Mayfair- W1K7QR? They have the most excellent service and a 3 course set price lunch (including 1/2 bottle of wine per person, coffee and petit fours) for very near the cost of your per head budget. Contact Silvano Giraldin at 020 7499 1826 or 020 7408 0881 and have a chat. He will know exactly how to best serve you and your clients. They may be able to set someting special up for you? Alternatively, contact them by email at: bookings@le-gavroche.com Here's hoping your business prospers! Good Luck! Not exactly central London, but worth the extra effort!

Benjamin: ...More importantly... Who do YOU think is the best chef cooking in London these days? :) Imho, Chef Michel Roux Jr at Le Gavroche is the chef/place to be ( I am bias). Most of the other top chefs were through that kitchen too (Roux Bros days)! Try looking at the personal cooking philosophy of the chefs. Michel Roux Jr. always says "Happy Cooking". The Roux's have contacts that stretch the entire world- literally, of the finest chefs and properties. Who knows what could come of a stint there? A scholarship program (the first of it's kind), and decades of proven technique and success. Besides, they are damn nice people! Send him your CV at 43 Upper Brook Street, Mayfair- or better yet, stop in! See for yourself. Ask questions of the others there. The philosophy of G. Ramsay says @&*$!*$#@!- whatever... I would not only avoid Ramsay as a chef, but any of his properties as a diner! Who wants to dine on the fear and anger vibe? No matter how popular or accepted his behaviour is! I personally find it revolting. It can't help but transfer to his entourage, again, imho. Good luck to you wherever you cook! Paula

Greetings Mr. Bulmer: I would be interested to know to what degree the service in a restaurant plays into your inspection of a property? Thank you for your valuable time. Kind regard, Paula Jonvik Seattle, Washington USA

Kit: Depends? Depends upon the going rate for the area you end up in... Housing is at a *%$@#! premium there... Then there is the utilities, unless they are included in the place you end up with. try to swing a deal that way... You can get a cheap pay as you go mobile phone from communications over there. No contract. Easy. Shop around and ask others you meet for their take on that. Don't bother to take anything that plugs in there, i.e. hairdryer, emersion blender, radio, or the like- wrong voltage and the plugs are different, as you might have heard. Easier to purchase them there. Transportation is v. expensive. Tubes, trains, cabs, buses all extremely expensive and crowded. Nevermind about owning a car. How long are you planning on being there? Might want to check into some train passes that you can buy in advance with unlimited travel. Something like Discover Britain, I can't remember the name now, but ask around. Food and drink a premium. Hope you don't have a nasty habit like me (smoker) 'cause you'll be sticker shocked there too! You'll need a couple of dishes, pots pans, tools... I always ship my culinary tools (knives) ahead via UPS. No post 911 hassles at the airport, or getting there and finding your baggage has been gone through and robbed of any and all goodies! All in all you should have a great time and may find that my points are totally out of line, but having been there several times, I find it just keeps getting more expensive for everything and the availability of housing is shrinking. Take plenty of sweaters (jumpers) as even in the summer, things there seem damp to me? And a damn good pair of work shoes! Still, I love the UK. Evidently, so do a lot of others from over the globe, you'll find your niche and have a great time!!! P

EXPENSIVE!!! N.J. to the third power!!! I live in Seattle and it is one of the most expensive areas to live in the US. But London.... WHEW!!!! The outskirts are bad too. But do-able. Paula

Dear Kit: EVERYTHING! I found that everything was different. First of all, they have split shifts at most good places... Begin in AM; Lunch service; Break for 2 to 3 hours in afternoon; Return and complete dinner service. Better brush up on your metric and celsius... It makes a huge difference in the measurement and baking of items. Some recipes are in metric and some imperial, which are different from each other, depending upon the particular recipe/formula. Conversions can be a challenge. The quality of the dairy products- i.e. butter, eggs milk and especially cream are far superior to anything we have available here! Beautiful stuff! They have several different creams and the viscosity gradually increases, making the selection of the proper cream for the recipe or formula essential! They have access to lovely ingredients that we seldom see in the states. A wonderful assortment of chocolates and apples, cheeses and fish/shellfish, salts and truffles that make a person weak in the knees! (Although, I stand by Dungeness crab personally as the finest crab in the world.) ;) If you have your own tools... watch them like a hawk! Very small offset pastry spatulas are at a premium there... They have never seen a pastry blender, and I never, ever saw an instant read thermometer in use there... How is your ear for dialect and foreign languages? I found it challenging to understand 'exactly' what was said due to the variety of languages and dialects in a UK kitchen. There are a wide variety of nationalities in UK hospitality and catering, and we don't always speak the same language, have different meanings and definitions for things, so just pay attention and ask for clairification if you aren't certain about something. Methods for tasks vary from kitchen to kitchen. Most of the people I worked with were wonderful, and then, there were a couple that disgusted me. Safe food handling and kitchen sanitation issues are paramount to me, and you might find that some of the junior staff haven't got a clue about this issue, due to the fact they haven't been trained in that area properly, and are arriving from outside the UK and work for peanuts. There can be a distinct degree of intolerance with immigrants and it can surface as downright offensive language and treatment. Watch the floors outside the kitchen! Seems to be a distinct lack of understanding about signage that can result in a nasty fall... On a non-culinary note, the legal boundries that are firmly in place in most top American kitchens regarding sexual content among other things, are different in the UK. Use your common sense and don't slip into inappropriate behavior mode. If you are ever injured, be sure to have it documented in the accident book and don't let them cheat you out of what them term 'statutory sick pay', like our industrial accident pay. Have good medical coverage that extends to UK, otherwise you could end up with a course in state run health... in other words COVER YUR ASS! That said, I worked with some very taleted professionals and learned loads from them! Afternoon tea was a favorite of mine, with the endless assortment of pastries, cakes, cookies (biscuits), chocolates and candies. Plated 'puddings' (desserts), in top establishments are finer than most in America! They have a real knack for them, and most every one includes the componant of freshly made ice cream or sorbet. I'd be interested to know the name of the company who obtained your work visa for you? Also the cost? Might you share that? It is ghastly expensive to live in the UK, so be prepared. If you think things are expensive here, just wait! Try not to let your jaw hit the floor when you make the conversion from dollars to pounds! Good Luck to you fellow eGulleteer! Sincerely, Paula Jonvik

... Aubergine maintains it's one Michelin Star rating while other A to Z properties lose theirs... ... The 2005 Tatler Restaurant Awards gives Aubergine a nod for the Best Set Lunch in London... Congratulations to them! Paula

Congratulations in advance to your daughter :)... I love doing cupcake sized NY style Cheesecakes. You can bake them ahead, put in tupperware/rubbermaid and freeze them until needed. They hold up well, thaw quickly and can be topped with anything from just sour cream, or whipped cream (plain or flavored), or my favorite- a wild blackberry sauce with a cornstarch base, just a small spoonful;). I mostly use a graham cracker crust, but you could do a ground nut crust or any number of variations of crumbled cookie crust. The topping/glaze should only be applied after thawing and a day at most before service, as it gets gummy. (Glaze doesn't freeze well either). You could vary the flavor of the cheesecakes too, with the addition of chocolate, liquor or some berries? Good Luck! And Happy Baking! Paula

Thanks for your input... We have all had bad experiences, too many bad experiences in restaurant dining. Examples of how not to properly run an establishment is all around us. In my humble opinion, I think that when a person dines out, and they experience something that elevates them personally, (I'm talking Maslow's Hierarchy here), a self actualization due not only to the cuisine, but to the service, that puts the restauarant and the diner on a totally different level. It opens the door to another more personal level that can grow into a friendship of sorts. Let alone the opportunity to look more closely at HOW a proper establishment is operated, I'm talking details here. As one who is a lifelong student of the culinary arts, I feel that you can read all the books you like about things... or have a professor try to explain it to you... but nothing takes the place of experiencing it, then studying the real person and the hows, whys et cetera. It brings the study home in a manner that is not possible otherwise. Not as an employee, but as a person on the outside looking in. Details that are not listed in any book, for example. Experience is the greatest teacher, and a Maitre d'/Restaurant Manager/Managing Director who is truly successful is worth his or her weight in... you choose the ingredient! That said, I don't just dine for the simple pleasure of dining, although I receive great pleasure from dining, I am looking for an interaction between myself and the staff that most diners are simply not interested in. I respect those who have chosen service as a career and look to learn from them. There is a lot of talk these days about cooking and chefs, but little to nothing about the important link between the chef and the diner... the Maitre d'. Folk talk about Escoffier and Ritz and other historic culinary figures... While all around them are the new historic culinary figures that will be studied in the future. Why not live history? Get to really know these people beyond a level of just dining, paying, leaving. True, unadulterated hospitality, and the warmth and comfort that comes with it is a beautiful thing. Diego Masciaga of the Waterside Inn, Michel Lang of Alian Ducasse Louis XV in Monaco and Thierry Tomasin of Aubergine (who incidentally, is regarded as a world class sommelier) was trained by Silvano Giraldin of Le Gavroche, who was trained by... and on it goes. What motivates these gentlemen? What is their philosophy? These are the points I am interested in. How do they complete the circle that begins in a kitchen with raw ingredients and a talented chef, a cave full of wine, and ends up as one of the best dining experiences a person has ever had? There is more here then meets the eye. Thanks again for listening, and responding!

I don't think it's the people of this board. I know that I've expressed the paper plate and plastic spoon preference - and I think Jon Tseng is of the torn t-shirt and skates school of things - but I think most are on your side of the fence. ← My apologies to all, I did not intend to insinuate anything derogatory by my statement, I just am looking at things from a front of house point of view rather than back of house. I realize that the aspect of the ingredients and the skill it takes to create this type/style of cuisine are more time than not, discussed in great detail and with equal fervor here. I am simply stating that with out the highest level of service, and all that it encompasses, the entire Michelin Star/Relais Gourmond package would be incomplete. On that note, I shall retire to my corn flakes served in a plastic bowl... :) Kind regards, Paula

In my experience, I don't understand is how the Waterside Inn beats Le Gavroche. OK, so the views over the river are nice at WI, but the service at WI is amateur compared to Le Gavroche. Food is, of course, awesome at both. Cheers, Howard ← I totally agree Howard, being one who absolutely worships Silvano, and Michel Jr, but unfortunately, I don't hand out the stars... And really, since Silvano trained Diego and so on, and so on, it's all in the family! :) The front of house family that is! I, like you, prefer Gavroche to any restaurant in London (with the exception of Aubergine... Thierry transplant) and proudly consider myself to be a devoted follower of all things Roux related. I understand that the folks on this board are more into the food side of things, but I really had my head turned by the service at Le Gavroche to the point that I am now conducting major research into the history of front of house service. Without top notch service, what is the use of Michelin Star cooking? I mean, the service is such a necessary componant of Michelin Starred or Relais Gourmond cooking that, imho, the two cannot and should not be seperated. Kind regards, Paula

I agree. In my experience, London is a different market to New York. For example, I was in New York last month for a friend on mine's fourtieth. There, I sampled Daniel (a Relais Gourmand), Soho House and Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles. I wouldn't say I was particularly blown over by any of them although they are generally well received by the locals. Food definitely seemed much better value - although that was probably more to do with the exchange rate. Strangely the expected high level of service I normally anticipate for the US was rare. Perhaps this is just a New York thing. But there was something else missing that I just haven't been able to put my finger on. Perhaps it was the whole way the personal service thing works here in the UK just wasn't happening in New York. Perhaps it was the food: I always felt that no-one dared to do anything a little bit risque - for example, sweetbreads and pan fried foie gras were nowhere to be seen. Although the steak tartare at Les Halles was yummy - when the waiter felt he needed to say "You know that it is served raw, sir", I think that said it all. I'm not necessarily suggesting that my limited comparison between New York and London showed New York to be worse, just different, and something for me to get used to. Cheers, Howard ← Nice to see you back on the boards Mr. Long! Where the devil have you been? I'll bet you have other dining adventures to share with us..... come now..... what did yopu dine upon for Christmas, hum?

Happy New Year fellow eGulleteers! Le Gavroche 'lost' a star in 1991 when Michel Roux Jr. took over Gavroche from his father Albert, which is not a negative reflection on the quality of his cooking or the level of skill and craftsmanship executed there. So many aspects are considered by Michelin when awarding stars... aside from cooking, there is ambiance, wine lists, and especially service, quality of nearly everything that has to do with the operation of a prestige establishment. Chef Michel states that he isn't too fussed about gaining that 3rd star back, as it requires much more than meets the eye to gain/uphold 3 stars. It is a very costly proposition to play the Michelin game. The Waterside Inn in Bray, another Roux stronghold, proudly holds 3 stars, regardless of the fact that Alain Roux has taken over from his father Michel Sr., and we will see what happens in 2005. I suspect they will remain a 3 star. Just for the record, Le Gavroche was the first restaurant in Britain to be awarded 1, 2 and finally 3 stars, in 1974, 1977 and 1982 respectfully. The Roux family paved the way for other restaurants, and chefs, to gain reconition and earn these stars and the other accolades that compliment the level of execution that we now associate with the best places in London and beyond :) What would the dining scene in GB be like if it hadn't been for the likes of the Roux's? Our thanks to them for changing the face of fine dining here. Kind regards, Paula

This is the recipe I use for both Zucchini and Banana Bread when I do High Teas... Yields 2 regular sized loaves. Preheat oven to 350 degrees f. Grease and flour your pans, set aside. 3 Cups All Purpose Flour 1 Tablespoon Baking Powder 1/2 teaspoon Baking Soda 1 1/2 teaspoons Salt 2 teaspoons Ground Cinnamon 1 teaspoon Ground Nutmeg 1 teaspoon Ground Ginger 1/2 teaspoon Ground Cloves 1/2 Cup Milk (2% or Vit D) 2 Eggs, slightly beaten 1/2 Cup Vegetable Shortening, melted 1 Cup Granulated Cane Sugar 2 Cups Raw Grated Zucchini (or mashed Banana) 2 Cups Walnuts (optional) chopped Sift all dry ingredients together and set aside. Mix all remaining ingredients, except nuts. Add dry ingredients to wet and blend well. Fold in the nuts. Pour into pans and bake about 50 to 60 minutes... Check at 50 with a wooden pick. You want it to be dry when you pull it out. Remove from oven. Place pans on wire rack to cool for 5 minutes, turn out and cool completely. Freezes well, if it lasts that long! I have never had a problem with this recipe and folks LOVE it!!! Good Luck :) P.S. Have plenty of fresh butter to hand when you sit down with these loaves...

Vintage Hawaiian Chocolate... 60% and up...... mmm!!! Open wide and say ALOHA!!! :)

salt.

O' Christmas pickle... I was the lucky recipiant of a green glass Christmas pickle ornament this year. It was given to me from my best friend Ruth, in honour of our 3rd annual pickling. The tag on the pickle says this- "Long ago when parents decorated the tree they hung the pickle ornament last, hiding it in the gree boughs. When the children were allowed to view the tree, they would begin searching for the pickle ornament because they knew they would receive an extra gift for being the most observant." It hangs in right in the front on my little tree...

Homemade, uh, I mean 'artisanal' jams, jellies and conserves. During the summer, when the old bugs are buzzin', I love to get out in the bush and search out those wild blackberries (the tiny NW ones), and make the jellies for winter. There is nothing like the full flavors of those berries when the frost is on the ground! Trees were dripping with beautiful fruits this season and some of those golden plums with the addition of nuts and orange zest made lovely conserve for use on pancakes and waffles... Mmmmmmmmm! :)

Can anyone tell me where Mark Dodson is going? Thanks!

That's an important point ... that it's a philosphy. The question is, is it obtainable? Not just here, but anywhere. editor, since you made the point, what establishments in Vancouver meet your requirements, or come the closest? A. ← In my humble opinion, it is a philosophy. It is obtainable. Perhaps not in many establishments, but it is obtainable. The finest service I have ever experienced in my life is at Le Gavroche... In London... Not Vancouver. The managing director there, Silvano Giraldin, has trained many of the top notch service staff not only in London, and around the E.U., but many that have gone on to spread the 'Roux ethic' worldwide. This gentleman has the proper philosophy that has produced award winning service for decades. He knows what he is doing, therefore he can teach others. Unlike most maitre d' who think they know... and there are PLENTY of those! I am speaking of a fine dining establishment here. However, the philosophy translates to ANY type of establishment. Great service is great service. Poor service is not acceptable (in my opinion) anywhere where you are paying for a proper meal! Paula

Wow! 165 hits and 2 replies? I guess no one wants to talk about this? Thanks to the 2 people who did reply. I appreciate your input.

Fellow eGulleteers: Hear, hear! Mopy P! I so agree! A tuppence worth of my humble opinion. Haute Cusine only exists today in kitchens and dining rooms across Europe and beyond, because it is the historic backbone to all cuisine and dining experiences of today. Which is a crying shame! Haute Cusine is not only to do with the seasonal locality of top notch ingredients and how they are combined to produce gastronomic pleasure (which is the foundation), but as a state of mind. Not only of the chef and service staff, but the diner as well. To dine in the manner of Haute Cuisine is to dine upon history. Time is the common denominator here. In this fast paced world of instant gratification, how willing are the majority of people to slow down enough to wait for, or even fully absorb, let alone pay the going price for the many faceted splenders of Haute Cuisine, whether over the road or over the Channel? It takes more money and time than all of us have put together to operate an establishment that is considered to be rated as Haute Cuisine. Unless people are prepared to pay the high monitary price of dining at these establishments, and to slow down enough to appreciate what it truly means to dine in that manner (time is money), then we will lose them forever. A high price to pay for high cuisine? Damn straight! That said... The Waterside Inn and Le Gavroche are 2 of the last bastions in, or near the capital. These are the living Chefs and Maitre d' that future culinary students will be studying. Experience it at all cost. Worth every penny!