Nathan

the bottom line isn't the point at all. the point is that I know Bruni's predilections, what he likes and why, what he dislikes and why. I know what he likes that I will dislike and what he dislikes that I will like...because he's consistent and gives his reasons. that's all I ask of a critic, in any field. they can't all be T.S. Eliot and introduce the concept of the "objective correlative" or Ruskin with the "pathetic fallacy" and change our way of reading or viewing. Bruni is a critic in the same way that Michiko Kakutani is.

I think kimchi would work well enough in more German/Polish areas (Illinois, Wisconsin)...just turn down the heat a notch...its similar enough to sauerkraut. besides, everyone's been exposed to kimchi at their neighborhood "Japanese" restaurant that's actually run by Koreans. its the other factors mentioned in this thread that are the issue.

"it may not be as refined as other cuisines but it has it's place........great when your jonesing simple comfort food" fair enough...I'm a fan of bureks myself...speaking of which, does anyone know where I can find a decent one in Manhattan?

"... so, knowing his pattern, I know where I stand in comparison with his tastes - and it guides me just fine through the NYC culinary scape. That's all I can ask. To say that he's inconsistent, I don't think is fair. In fact, I find his preferences and aversions rather apparent. That's all I need." this is the best defense of Bruni I've seen. in other words, he is reliable in his tastes....which makes his reviews useful. I think too many here have some Platonic ideal for a restaurant critic (albeit not usually fleshed out) rather than focussing on the utility of a critic's reviews.

Thanks for these ideas. I especially like the idea of using white wine....I surmise that sake would work very well as well...

People on chowhound never give a negative review to any restaurant with entrees under $10. joking (well not really) aside, its ok and worth going to once....or put differently, its not that Veselka is a bad Eastern European restaurant, it's that Eastern European food sucks.

I don't know what inside information Eater may have...but you too may have inside information as to Bruni's Wednesday reviews merely by reading his blog on Monday (for example, he revealed that he was reviewing Little Owl two days early). I believe restaurants are also always informed ahead of time (for one thing, they need to take photos)

You have to be born a Norwegian to love lutefisk. basically just rotten cod soaked in lye.

I prefer Carpano Antica for my Negroni (made by the same company as Punt es Mes -- which is actually their "cheap" vermouth)...much more nuanced and herbal than other vermouths and robust enough to work in the traditional 1:1:1 form. However, it is so robust that I heartily recommend serving it on the rocks.

hmmm...I don't use vodka if I can help it and I make too many sidecar variations already.... any other ideas?

they do take reservations...if it's just two of you you're probably fine...but...they do tend to be quite packed on the weekends....

hmmm: 1. when in Europe, any restaurant with menus in multiple languages (especially when displayed outside)...very high end places are an exception since they tend to have an international clientele. 2. although I generally agree that if there are no locals that is a bad sign -- if in Eastern or Central Europe (as in the Czech Republic or Poland) that's not necessarily true....as locals tend to avoid expensive (by local standards) fine dining places...some of which can be very good. and asking their opinion might not be a good idea as they'll often pretend to have eaten there. 3. in NY, the following are rules to follow: a. if it's in the theater district it's a tourist trap. b. if it's in Times Square it's a tourist trap. c. if it's in the "trendy Meat Packing district" (as every guidebook will refer to it...even though NY'ers don't go there on the weekend anymore) it's a tourist trap. d. if it's on Bleeker Street (except for west of 6th Avenue) its a tourist trap). e. if it's been on "Sex in the City" it's a tourist trap (Balthazar is a notable exception because Balthazar is probably unique in NY in actually having a mix of locals, tourists, b&t and even celebs at breakfast). f. if it's in Central Park it's most definitely a tourist trap.

why is Spice on this list? Considering that both Wondee Siam and Pam Real are at this price point and are much better... maybe it's just the decor and lithesome clientele? But Klong has both of those and is a bit better...

uh, we had Pavlova? damn. I remember seeing that in my mom's Avon cookbook growing up....I believe it was named after the ballerina Anna Pavlova...not sure what she had to do with Australia.

I was EatMyWords' host and thus was responsible for his (considerable) inebriation. Its amazing what experimenting with Aviations and my as yet unnamed concotion (white rum, cointreau, pineapple juice) will do to the senses but.... my memories of the first couple apps were quite good....I don't recall the fish courses after the barramundi, they all seemed to taste the same but that might just be due to the booze.... anyway, I have to second that it was a terrific deal (no doubt even better when sober) and that the food was much better than at the Sunburnt Cow (owned by the same guy I think).

I didn't see anyone dressed in anything less than slacks/button-down with a jacket. I figured that we would have to considering they made it a point to request us to wear jackets... so probably no jeans/tshirt. However, you could probably ask them when they call you to confirm. Or call them directly. It's a nice dining room, I would probably just go with the formal stuff. ← ok. in NY a restaurant like this would often attract a large crowd in my age range (31) and the jacket, t-shirt and jeans thing would be pretty standard. I don't want to stand out in the room though so I'll go with the button down and slacks.

Thanks for your review. I am undertaking the Tour on Friday and have been looking forward to it for months. One question (for anyone who's been) re: the dress code: I will of course be wearing a jacket...but considering the weather forecast for this weekend (hot, hot) and the bar-hopping I'll be doing after -- would my standard NY weekend uniform (which I would wear to any 4 star in NY besides Per Se) of jacket, t-shirt or v-neck and nice jeans be acceptable...or do I really need a button-down and slacks as well...?

mainly I use two hands and deadlift the paper weights...

This is the first time they've done a star system for this issue. I agree that quite a few choices left me with a "what are they smoking cause I want some of it" feeling. Jason: This comment didn't belong here -- "But in this sucky economy," not only is it objectively untrue by almost any statistical measure, but the fact that it is immensely debatable (to say the least) and not about food means that this thread could have been easily hijacked. (now if you had made that comment in 2001 or 2002....)

all of this would be relevant if one ate at EMP every day. but I don't. further, caloric and protein intake requirements change depending upon the level of physical activity one engages in. I lift weights 5 days a week and am intentionally gaining weight. That requires a gram of protein for every pound of body weight...so 3 ounces of meat doesn't cut it...on the other hand, most of my consumption is at lunch...

I should note that there is an excellent tarte flambe at Bar Room at the Modern. I have not eaten at Cafe Alsace but overall I've heard good things...

ok, I just looked at the menupages menu. it's very out-of-date. there is no per tavalo section anymore (although there are still items for 2) there are numerous antipasti and primi options missing (including an antipasto sampler for the table at $11 a person! (on the regular menu) numerous secondi missing (some in the $24 range) no lounge menu (I've noted the prices above...as did a recent NY Times article)... on the current menu there is a seasonal tasting menu at $86 it looks like they've drastically overhauled the menu since the one on menupages.

the menu on menu-pages is not accurate (at least when compared to the menu offered at the restaurant last Thursday). leaving aside the lounge menu, last Thursday Del Posto was offering two tasting menus in the main dining room -- one for $120 and one for about $80. there were numerous primi in the $11-15 range and several secondi in the $24 range. like I said, I haven't eaten there...but the menu I saw was no more expensive (on average) than Babbo. the menu is much broader so there are plenty of very expensive options and plenty of much cheaper options.

Fair enough and agreed. My point was only that there is a clearly a conscious effort to appeal to a wide variety of palates and wallets. Of course, trying to be all things to all people can often be.....

fair enough...after seeing the full menu I am very curious to try it.. as for overpriced, it struck me that it could easily be a function of what you order: on the main dining room menu, apps range from $11 to $40 or so; secondi from $24 to $90....I think one's expectations are (rightfully) going to be very different depending upon how one is ordering....