akwa

imho, the concept of the "review" is stripped of authority when it becomes merely personal taste; therefore, at least the pretension of preliminary neutrality should be maintained.

it is not worth criticizing bruni for style for substance eating dinner at a vanderbilt mansion called the palace, and being concerned with the tab seems a bit strained; criticizing a 92 prix fixe for its supplements not commenting on the freebies, which at my count are at a dozen, and certainly more generous than any restaurant I have eaten in New York or America for that matter; to me price gouging is only relative to perceived value, otherwise how could any "worth" be estimated pre-pre reviewing restaurants with food oped pieces is substantively a conflict of interest i will refrain from further comment, but i think rampant criticism without comment is very detrimental to the quality level in the hospitality industry.

ouch is all i can say from the sounds of what is being served to criticize the value of a 3 cs prix fixe wo mentioning the 20 courses extra smacks of targeted reporting; dont need to jump on the bruni bandwagon, but if he drives this food out of town, ny will be weaker italian food can be sublime, so can other cuisines

the summer corn done in a similar manner, with bacon instead of the shrimp, was heads above this dish, in my opinion.. ← i had at end of summer so the late summer corn was folded into the grits; two's company

momofuku grits with maine sweet shrimp and bacon and 65 degrees egg

i agree with pedro regarding spanish scene with regards to terms i would probably put this line as molecular gastronomy the "avant hyper ultra uber" is going to be known as the bulli or bullification probably, because the work that follows is so clearly derivative and unrelated directly to other veins in modern cooking

i agree with pedros conclusion regarding this/mcgee i see a great difference between the two but mostly in terms of style and influence mcgee is the standard reference text in the united states, but i dont know of many chefs who have taken mcgee's tenets and run with them, the way that this has engendered a generation of science minded cooks who both pursue knowledge and apply theory in an artful way also mcgee is a bit dryer and his text does not suggest applications or historical context in the same way they are both superior minds in the field; i am not as familiar with peter barham, but as well he would probably be included if the discussion extended to uk/au/heston fenom etc.

it is difficult for me to distinguish between what docg clearly delineates as observational and hypothesis based research; for example, the hot gelees, if you see a gelee that doesnt melt at room temperature, you then hypothesize that the gelee will be resistant to high temperature then you test the hypothesis by applying different conditions isnt this the same thing; the most interesting point of departure for me is the declared intent: for this, the knowledge, for adria, the product final both men among the most influential of the last century of cooking

from my experience they have a tremendous amount of respect for each other and are perfectly content to pursue the chosen paths it is from my third person perspective that i feel there is a lot at stake; but only time will tell

like pedro i would be very quick to question the methodology of el bulli partly because i was working in the lab when it moved to its official destination "taller" at the same time i think that both ferran and herve this have a great deal at stake in asserting the primacy of their vision; while it is true that science does not equal grand cuisine, there is an important distinction that is absent: this: science plus art (aesthetics) adria: creativity with technology i am very comfortable saying that they are both legitimate; just this statement goes against the current lumping together of quite disparate groups, just because most food writers are completely ignorant of either the history or the reality of the lines of work. there have been evolutionary threads throughout history and generally during the moment it is hard to distinguish who will eventually be more influential, this doesnt mean they are the same and can be easily dismissed.

docsconz from my conversation with herve this the fundamental difference is quite simple science is pursuit of knowledge technology is application of science the relationships can be observed as follows under gagnaire website for science and cuisine there is a collaboration between a chef and a scientist to demonstrate a theory with a dish el bulli materials and techniques are applications of existing machines, or even elaborations of new processes; the intent is the application of the knowledge and the results are quite noticeably different. then you can begin the discussion of the relationship between aesthetics as fundamental or secondary and the gap widens. with regards to marinetti, five years ago we were doing "futurist" inspired events around the world. my first response to florence fabricant, who asked if we read marinetti, was of course. the sensory menus he described put an even longer historical context on futurist dining than mg, but there is plenty of history for mg too. search for the herve this description of mg from copenhagen conference. wg

are there specific questions that you have, or a more general discussion of the mg movement? best regards wg

with regards to pine and aroma/flavor japanese cuisine has been incorporating pine essence through all ingredients for thousands of years; bras' technique also included infusions in syrup, maximins included in cream; please remember that the 70s were not before the mg movement, the 70s were an important milestone in a longer process that was only later termed a "movement" by the media i suspect that the mg movement a la herve this, who coincidentally coined the phrase and defined it, is markedly different from the current vogue of technological applications of food process. though wd and alinea follow the adria school this is not really consistent at all in the fundamental meaning as written by bras. actually, gagnaire, and therefore paul would be much more consistent with the initial tenets

Thanks for the historical context, Akwa. I doubt that they were using pine then like they are now at least back in the 70's. Do you know how they used it then? I have never seen it in any American restaurant prior to Alinea a couple of weeks ago and my high end European experience doesn't go back that far. 70's included pine sirop, pine parfait, pine ice cream, to name a few; albert worked on pine flan extensively; the pinonada bulli 98 was the ultimate pine development followed by the spray bosque or woods spray developed with an olfactory specialist (i believe from san sebastien region) Is the cuttlefish and lamb pairing traditional or the mar y montana? The latter I know is. I wouldn't be surprised if the former is as well, although I am unaware of that particular tradition if it already exists. ←

from michel bras and maximin it was in vogue about 1975, from bulli vogue about 10 years ago, culminating in the woods spray, about five years ago. also a traditional pairing in the first flavors of the mediterranean cookbook; probably both of these flavors and combinations date back much longer, but recent fashion in france then spain is pretty linear.

great review vadouvan sounds like he nailed it my instincts were that this had the bones to be the best food in nyc sounds like on the way rumors of the death of new york gastronomy have been greatly exaggerated?

im not sure how tangential this is but imho generally a second generation growth requires technique even if there is already ingredient and philosophy i think that is why the next generation of chefs in the bay area will be more in the style of thomas keller than alice waters

hello team if you can find me enough people who want this stuff im pretty sure i can arrange to have it bought in bulk and subdivided please forward me contact info with product request no guarantee but possible breakthrough in availability no one i know needs 50 pound sacks you could gelify new jersey not that that would be a bad idea wg Got confused... if the thin skin is "caused" by the use of Calcium Chloride, for what purpose is the Sodium Alginate needed? I thought that the C.C. would be enough to set it... ← Sorry I confused you. Heres a link to an earlier thread on Alginate and CC here About 12 or 13 posts down you'll see a post from me with a basic recipe I used in an application although not chocolate. BTW, dig that Texturas link, pedro, thank you. A lot of these products like Gellan or Calcium Chloride are often hard to get after the samples run out because the "buy" is often for Fifty pounds of it or whatever. ←

if you are serious about high end management in hotel restaurant i would suggest trying to take some time abroad at a swiss hotel school i think it illustrates the lack of structure in this country for the many intelligent people who could pursue a career in hospitality if there was any clear direction, training, and apprenticeship system, just dont know where to start. to see elite training in hospitality i still think the swiss grand ecoles are superior. the training includes actual operational experience, and the placement is traditionally at the superior properties around the world. that said peace and properity only generated the cuckoo clock, and if you are persistent and tenacious enough a foot in the door at a major nyc group could be enough. i would suggest trying tfl/perse/bouchon for ultra high end dining management; batali/bastianich for a large range of price points; or in my opinion, the most exciting standardized restaurant in the world: mcdonalds. call me for a free externship, i need the help best regards

pretty funny you should say that i found a perfect spot on division for a 10 seat prepay only single table resto this fall only problem, investor not thrilled that the project faced a project

the classic version is available on michel bras website in french or english if i had to make it, i would take my ice cream base and infuse it with beurre noisette, and then separate the fat to not alter the structure of the ice cream best of luck wg

do you consider infusion based sodas made with the isi soda sifon

have not followed the thread only offer this advice gagnaire can be transcendental arpege is very good have you considered astrance should be three in about a decade enjoy

great work even if you fail to acheive at least you have attempted something profound feel free to contact me i am working on a small space right now and may have interesting and well developed contacts for you my only reservation before requesting reservations do you have a high chair

i love this book and want to revisit the thread entree i thought chelminski argues successfully that loiseau's fear of losing a third star was at least in part related to his suicide, being that it was the coveted reflection of his life's work. whether he lost a star, which he did not, was really not the issue in my opinion. imho the writing was repetitive and filled with unfortunate metaphors, something about a truffled wonderbra still causes me onomatopoieac heart palpitations, but the story is so good that chelminski cant miss. anyone who entertained the michelin bashing after its nyc release would be served by a realistic (though often awestruck) analysis like this made me remember why i fell in love with loiseau style and have two copies of envolee from my time in france. deconstruction predating adria by a decade? with regards to chelminski's personal taste, who cares; he obviously loves gagnaire and bras, he just understands loiseau. any "frenchman" can be forgiven for discussing nueva cuisine in only french terms and to expect a concession in that detail is unreasonable to expect best analysis of why chefs are crazy that i have found so far wg