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bleudauvergne

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Everything posted by bleudauvergne

  1. I definitely recommend Julia Child's Mastering the Art. As someone who cooked through both volumes in France, I can say that it having been written for the American kitchen does not matter when you are in France, you'll find it a book that you can cook from daily very easily. The recipes, discussion of ingredients, explanations are generally very thorough and accesible. The only problem when cooking from these volumes in France are the adustments she has made for American flour, which she explains but are difficult to re-convert to accomodate French flour types. The best thing to do in those cases is to read up on Mme Child's instruction for various pastries and cakes, and then go to Mme St. Ange for the proportions, which I see are appropriately noted as weights. Once you're ready to start cooking from French recipes, do follow Mme St. Ange's first and foremost page one recommendation: Get a kitchen scale. These days Tefal makes a nice cheap one which you will find indispensible once you really start cooking in French. Also make sure you memorize Farenheit/Celcius conversion, and how they apply to various the general oven temps, this will help you talk about cooking back in your native language when you finally want to share what you have discovered!
  2. Excellent report, Hilary! Thank you for all the pics! St. Emilion is really a beautiful town.
  3. I also think the word has its place. I think that if you have ever had to search for good sources, especially ones that are rapidly dissapearing, you come to appreciate the term. Sometimes though, the mountain comes to Mohammed, and everything can be found in one place. That's when the word 'sourcing' no longer applies.
  4. Felice, you probably did well to start with your English language books - I cook now primarily from French language cookbooks and recipes but did not start that way. I still sometimes go to my English language books when I want to go over some technique because truthfully speaking, the Americans have done very well in putting good explanations of French technique to the home cook, things that supposedly a person might learn from their mother are covered. In all but a few French cookbooks there will always be opportunity for a grey area here or there. If you aren't used to the terms you can easily haze over important details. Once I did get the basics, I started collecting old out of print French cookbooks just because it's a hobby of mine. They are my first stop for anything that may have been lost over the years now when I begin research on a particular dish. The recipe format can be somewhat different from what we're used to when working with the older French cookbooks, how are things arranged in Mme St-Ange's book? No mind, I will seek out a copy today. Maybe we can cook together from the French version. I suppose which edition doesn't matter, since in the LA Times article they say that this cookbook has never been revised.
  5. Clearly he didn't fo it for the money.. Has anyone seen the English version of the book?
  6. That is looking very good, Marc! The duck legs was one of the first things I prepared from the first edition of the book. This was the recipe that hooked me into cooking through it. I was so happy with the results. I chose that recipe because at the time I had picked up a bunch of duck legs cheap, we had a whole lot of co-op Cote du Rhone in a box, and we were on a serious budget. This dish was instrumental in forming my belief that for a sucessful dish, the whole adds up to much more than the sum of its parts.
  7. This concours is very interesting, worth a look. Thank you mangosteen, for sharing the site with us!
  8. Régal, No. 9, February-March 2006 Edito. Mise en Bouche: Boudin déguisé Courier des lecteurs: Concours des recettes Bruits de casseroles: Actualités à grignoter : News to nibble on: The restaurant Mac/Val at the Nouveau musee d'Art Contemporain at Vitry. Glace rétro, retro ice cream. Invasion of the Italian Pandoro cake. Healthy food coaching offered by Chefs in Lyon and Lille. High Tech toaster. Gift: olive oil bottles in hot colors. Bar made of Ice in Paris 18th. Super new fruit juce : pomogranite juice by Yablok. Knife cult: Knife 9.47 discovered in the paté at Prenez les Pailles, the bistrot/cave in the 15th. La creuset special delivers in Paris. Anticellulite chocolate. Juice bar Lood in the Paris 2eme helps us get our quota of daily fruit. Fruit and vegetable soap. To taste - Le Pain des leurs organic whole grain crackers. New Book: "Testicules" every possible way they are served and cooked, everywhere. To discover: Tapasmania, restaurant in the Paris 1st. To drink: Ski wine - Domaine Dupasquier, Jongieux, Savoie. To taste: Nice new sablée biscuits, Michel et Augustin. Find them at Monoprix. etc. Batterie de cuisine: Le cuit-vapeur ; Reviews of steam cookers. Shopping: Vaisselle et ustensiles bambou Feuilleté: Les meilleurs livres du moment: Helen Darroze - autobiography, photos Jerome Delafosse. Vin pour les nuls, Pierre Casamayor. Beaux restes - a cookbook that shows you how to create new dishes with leftovers by Emmanuelle Jarry and Jean-Francois Mallet. Fete la cuisine - New menus for holiday meals by Nathaly Nicholas. Pot-au-feu & Cie - 30 recipes for the Pot au Feu by Keda Black with photos by Akido Ida. C’est la saison. - seasonal list updated on the Feb Thread Here. Un produit et deux recettes: Le merlan : Un produit et deux recettes: Le fenouil : Un fromage de saison: la mimolette Un produit rare à découvrir: le haricot de soissons Agenda: Fête de l’huile nouvelle et autres manifestations : Oil fest and other events Menu de saison. Entrée: Papillote de crepe aux langoustines Plat: Chou farci Dessert: Galette des rois feuilletée aux dattes Ma recette prete en 30 minutes. / My recipe ready in 30 minutes Benedict Beaugé et son cabillaud aux coquillages en cataplana Laura Zavan et ses pates orecchiette, saucisse et poireaux Trish Deseine et son aile de raie rotie au beurre vert Recettes Rapides. Que faire avec ? Les chataignes en bocal : What to do with: Canned Chestnuts Que faire avec ? Les champignons séchés : What to do with : Dried Mushrooms Feature Articles. Les agrumes. - Texte Marie-Odile Briet, Photography Akiko Ida Du soleil dans l’assiette : rien de tel en hiver, pour réveiller vos plats, que d’utiliser des agrumes en cuisine. Apprenez à les reconnaître. / Especially in wintertime, to bring your main dishes to life, use citrus fruits in your cooking. Learn how to identify them. Le Cochon. - Texte Aline Cochard, photography Tommasso Sartori Dossier : Peu chère, maigre et digeste, la viande de porc a tout pour plaire. Des éleveurs ont relancé des races anciennes aux saveurs exceptionnelles. Le chef Bruno Doucet, de La Rélegade, nous livre huit recettes faciles et délicieuses. / Inexpensive, lean, and digestable, pork has everything to please. Pork farmers have brought back old races with exceptional flavor. Chef Bruno Doucet, of La Relegade, gives us 8 easy and delicious recipes. Julie Andrieu fete la Saint-Valentin.recipes Julie Andrieu, Photos Henry Roy Recettes amoureuses Comme Julie Andrieu, préparez votre repas de la Saint-Valentin avec votre amoureux. À deux, c’est plus rigolo. Une entree, un plat et un dessert à déguster dans les yeux. / Loving recipes just like Julie Andrieu's, prepare your St. Valentine meal with your lover. It's more interesting when two are cooking. One appetizer, one main dish, and one dessert to taste with your eyes. Secrets de Chef. - Texte Alice Orhant, Photography Pierre Javelle Crêpes soufflées au Grand Marnier : Le tour de main de Jean-André Charial, de l’Oustau de Baumanière, aux Beaux-en-Provence Un Restaurant et un Plat. - texte Sébastien Demorand, Photography Denis Dailleux Topinambours, pommes de terre et pintade en baeckeofe de Mon Vieil Ami, à Paris Cuisinez les épluchures de légumes racines. - Texte Dr. Jean-Phillippe Derenne, photography Anne Veaute Ne jetez plus les épluchures, elles sont délicieuses en salade ou en gâteau / Don't throw away your peelings, they are delicious in a salad or cake! À Boire Vins Bio : Plus naturels, les vins bio répondent à un besoin d’authenticité. Portraits de vignerons qui ont sauté le pas. / More natural, organic wines meet a need for authenticity. Portraits of winemakers who have taken the leap. Vins de Cahors, week-end de cave en cave : Suggestion d’itinéraire pour une balade dans les vignobles autour de Cahors / Itinerary suggestion for a tour through the winemaking estates of Cahors. Les secrets d’un alcool : Une savoureuse liqueur au whisky. / A delicious whiskey liqueur. Échappées gourmandes Le skrei en Norvège : Reportage dans les îles Lofoten, où des millions de cabillauds viennent se reproduire chaque hiver. / Report from the Isles of Lofoten, where millions of cod reproduce each winter. Pêche sous glace en Auvergne : Des centaines de pêcheurs creusent un trou dans la glace pour taquiner la truite. Étonnant ! / Hundreds of fishermen cut a hole in the ice for catching trout. Suprising! Insolite : Au Canada, on élabore un cidre à base de pommes gelées. 16 Pages Pour Mieux Consommer Toute la vérité sur les vitamines Faut-il acheter les produits hard discount ? Ne pas confondre la morteau et de la montbéliard Banc d’essai : Quel confit de canard choisir Produit d’ailleurs : La pâte d’olives de Kalamata Produit de terroir. L’andouillette de Troyes À découvrir : L’huile d’amandons de prunier Fiches Détachables : Cuistots en herbe : Deux recettes pour les enfants La liste des courses : Les ingredients de 18 recettes à glisser dans le porte-monnaie. Index des recettes : Entrées : Boudin déguisé Bouchées d’apéritives Carpaccio de fenouil au parmesan Marinière de coquillages au cumbava Salade d’épluchures de légumes racinés Salade effet Bœuf Salade d’oignions frais Kumquats et olives Soupe de vermicelles aux champignons seches Velouté de fenouil Plats : Aile de raie au beurre vert Andouillette au rosé des Riceys Cabillaud au coquillages en cataplana Carré d’agneau rôti au pomelo Chou farci Cote de porc rôtie au beurre demi-sel at au thyme frais Croustillants d’oreille et de pied de porc Filets mignons à l’ananas, tomates et brindilles de romarin Gambas sautées au gingembre sur rondelles d’ananas Gratin de châtaignes au citron Lapin à l’olive noire de Kalamata Merlan aux herbes fraîches Omble chevalier au chou vert Palette demi-sel cuite au bouillon, lentilles vertes du Puy Papillote de crêpe aux langoustines Pâtes orecchiette, saucisse et poireaux Pintade a la bigarade Polenta, poêlée de champignons au curry Poitrine croustillante Roulade de merlan à la vanille Rôti de porc cuisiné à la sauge Skrei à la Maren Anna Terrine de campagne Tchelo (galette de riz) Topinambours, pommes de terre et pintade en baeckeofe Tourte de saumon au fenouil Travers de proc laqué Desserts: Banquise bicolore Cerises d’amour Crêpes soufflées au Grand Marnier Crumble Banane-citron vert Crumble de châtaignes à la poire Galette des rois feuilletée aux dattes Gâteau de pelures de racines Gâteau au yaourt Granité vodka-orange Nougatine chocolat-amandes Roulofilo (roulé jambon-fromage) Shortbreads (biscuits écossais) Contributors : Aline Cochard Julie Andrieu Photographe : Tommaso Sartori (please PM bleudauvergne with corrections)
  9. Here's part: After presenting various ratios which are found also in English versions of the same, they discuss the Results in Section III: This is a translation as best as I could get it:
  10. They've been discussing the perfect Macaron in the Pastry and Baking forum Here for the last 2 1/2 years. With the lastest being a conference on the science of macarons with Herve This. It's a beautiful thread. One of the reasons that I loved the Hermes macarons as compared to the sad, dry versions (now I say this in comparison) being produced at Bernichon and Tourtiller here in Lyon was the ganache, which in my opinion was just right and struck a beautiful balance in the Herme versions, especially in the more simple flavours. I was not too impressed with the rose flavor either. You're right about the delicate biscuits of Herme. The meringue in the macarons at Tourtiller was crunchy and hard, after reading the scientific info given at the colloq, most probably contained too much sugar in the ratio and were clearly overcooked (color beginning to brown). Bernachon, just sort of 'eh' although still perfectly proper macarons in their own right. Just not as good as Hermes. Both macarons here in Lyon had hard areas in the center which were not present in the Herme macarons. The weather here is beautiful so we can't blame it on anything like that - unless they were selling stale macarons... Lisa, tell us about the macarons in St. Emilon - overall experience? I would love to know how your husband describes the perfect macaron.
  11. It would be interesting to know what the cafes and bistros with seasonal menus are serving this month.
  12. Question about the recipe - What is prague powder #1?
  13. Another bubble bath is in order, this time with candles. Then, cook something that takes a long time, so you can talk on the phone. I always serve dinner late when I've had a bad day. If he can't hack the wait, bring out little nibbles here and there.
  14. Hmmm, bleu d'Auvergne and pear. Sounds like that would make a super lunch. I think I will toast that on nut bread wedges over my salad. A vinaigrette with a touch of that aged chablis vinegar I never use will be just the trick to pull it all together. Thanks, Tim!
  15. Yes, now is the time to get your hard mountain cheeses. Blettes are coming around, brussel sprouts, parsnips. It is pot au feu season, as well as time for the big pumpkin like squash, and the radis noir. Don't forget you endives!
  16. Wow those look amazing. As someone who has tasted the ones from the shop, do the recipes in the book produce similar results? If so, I have got to get that book. As far as the macarons, they really are fabulous. Yesterday I went on a search for something that would measure up in Lyon. Neither even come close to what we got from Herme. They have completely recallibrated my inner macaron reference. I carried these for a long time so they were knocked around a bit, but survived.
  17. My parents went cold turkey back in the day before nicorette and the likes, and what worked for my father to get over the hump were cinnamon sticks (not the candy). My mother said she felt great after quitting, and that her swimming workouts really added to the benefits. My mother says that 30 years after quitting she still craves one from time to time, and sometimes has 'smoking dreams'. She quit once and never went back though! Get your families involved! Making this decision and sticking to it with the help of friends is going to do you all a world of good. I'm really proud that you're doing this. The food looks great, y'all!
  18. What's the very best cookbook shop?
  19. I loved the mini-kougelhopf which was to be found at the rue Bonaparte shop. It is not located with the pastries behind the counter, rather on the shelves for self service next to the checkout. They had big ones boxed up and ready to go, and if I'd known how great it was I would have gotten one. This was delicious too, I didn't catch the name, since a friend picked it out. We tried one each of the macarons over several days. My favorite was the caramel. They were so good that when Loic went back to Paris for a meeting, I sent him back to get another half-dozen of just that flavor.
  20. Super list. This is something I'll print out and keep with me next time I visit Paris. Any stories of certain products available from vendors at any of these markets? Any to add to the list? Photos?
  21. Wrap it in a dish towel, it will keep like that for a long time.
  22. One thing this did accomplish though, is that I have decided to do the stuffed onions tonight - if I can find 1 lb. sized onions. Off to market! edit - Back from market - I did not find onions of the right size. I think that for the stuffed onion dish, you must follow the recipe and get a very large onion for the recipe to work out properly. As soon as onions this size are available where I live I'll try it.
  23. I'm really sorry to say, but I felt it lacked credibility, for a book review. There were holes all through her story and was missing a sense of responsibility. For example, as I was reading it, I felt like the review went downhill from journalism to a cutesy bit of self-congratulatory fiction here : But isn't it strange that this type of exaggeration strangely does nothing to offset the sting of her blaze through a list of dishes she burned or otherwise messed up, without hesitation pointing critical fingers in all directions. OK. You look into the cookbook. You see the picture of the cabbage. You go shopping, you choose that kind of cabbage. How difficult can it get? Or, maybe it really happened this way: You didn't actually do your own shopping, and you give a photocopy of the recipe to someone else, and you get a call from the "test kitchen" with a guy saying - hey, Amy! What kind of cabbage! And, well, you have to haul your ass down to the kitchen with a copy of the book and show them the picture because you can't tell by looking what kind it is.
  24. Just to update on the Colvert recipe. Having realized that Colvert is impossible outside of hunting season, I will wait until next fall to do it. Oh well!
  25. ... and scoring makes it look pretty too.
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