bbq4meanytime

The fact that folks have been curing meat without refrigeration for ages is why I struggled with this process. I ultimately decided that it [refrigeration] was a technique that adds a valuable benefit with little downside. The key is to make sure that the refrigerator temp. is 39 degrees. I use my digital wine cellar thermometer. In fact, I read in one ham publication the cure time was extended day-for-day for each day the temperature dropped below 36 degrees, because the cure process simply stops below that temperature. I suppose you could cure using the refrigerator, but age (like hams) in a non-refrigerated environment. I'm not sure if this aging would effect duck significantly, but I know its a necessary part of traditional Virginia ham production.

Jeez Rocks, what did you get for your shameless plug, a lifetime supply of hushpuppies and pork shoulder? Any self-respecting BBQ loving gourmand would know that the mention of chicken skewers, pulled pork and brisket in the same sentence (let alone in the same BBQ joint) is suspect and can't hardly be taken seriosly as "the best in the world". You make our North Carolina brethen threaten secession by mentioning pulled pork and brisket together. The Texas folk are ready to rumble, remember the Alamo? Was it really that good?

Even of self-absorbed, limosine-liberal, North Arlington parents deserve a night out, sometimes you just can't find a babysitter

Sorry for the treatise but as I mentioned, I found a version of this recipe in The Duck Cookbook by James Peterson, who notes in his book that he first saw the technique in Michel Guarard’s La Cuisine Gourmande. Peterson’s recipe follows a traditional salt-based curing method, at room temperature (actually he says to cure the duck breast in a “cool dry place”). Although I have no reason to question Peterson’s approach to curing, I was uncomfortable with the idea of hanging a raw salted duck breast in my basement for two weeks before eating it. Therefore my natural inquisition of funky things led me to do a little research project the process of curing and the effect of bacteria in the process of meat preservation. In the end, I was successful in making fantastic duck prosciutto using a process that employs an abundance of caution. My version of the recipe follows, but first a little background on curing from my research. What I Learned About Curing on My Day Off… Before the advent of refrigeration and meat processing, people preserved meat by treating it with salt or salt mixtures or packing the meat in salt. Meat, with its high protein content and water content, coupled with the presence of favorable temperatures, provides perfect grounds for cultivating bacteria. Bacteria growth and the enzymes and toxins resulting from such growth, cause the decomposition or decay of the meat, the production of off flavors and food borne illnesses. Therefore in order to properly preserve meat, the bacteria which cause spoilage and food borne illnesses must be inactivated and destroyed [FN omitted]. There are several ways to control and destroy bacteria. Cooking, which kills the bacteria through heat (which is not used in the cure process), drying, which inactivates and kills bacteria through the reduction of water, chilling, which reduces the temperature necessary for bacteria to thrive and reproduce and curing, which uses salt to inactivate and destroy bacteria are all methods for preserving meat. The method I ultimately chose for making duck prosciutto relies on three of these methods: curing, drying and chilling. Curing is the addition of salt and/or sodium nitrate (or saltpeter), nitrites, sugar and seasonings to meat (traditionally pork) for preservation, color development and flavor enhancement. The meat is treated with the cure mixture on the surface, or in some processing techniques, injected into to meat. Salt is an effective means of controlling bacterial growth for two reasons. First, direct contact with salt can destroy or inhibit microbial growth. The resistance of bacteria to salt varies widely among different types of bacteria; the growth of some bacteria is inhibited by salt concentrations as low as 3%, e.g., Salmonella, whereas other types are able to survive in much higher salt concentrations, e.g., Staphylococcus [FN omitted]. Second, through the process of osmosis, salt has the effect of drawing out the water contained in the meat, therefore decreasing the “water activity” in the meat. Water activity is defined as the vapor pressure of the food divided by the vapor pressure of pure water. Bacteria need moisture to thrive. The water activity of fresh meat is 0.99 or higher, and is near optimum for the growth of many microorganisms. Shelf stability (or the likelihood the cured product will spoil in non-refrigerated temperatures) can be achieved by reducing the water activity of the product. Tests have demonstrated that the lowest water activity value at which a food borne illness organism will grow is 0.86. Consequently, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) consider foods with a water activity value of 0.85 or below not to be potentially hazardous [FN omitted]. Properly cured meat will have a low water activity in the safe range. Salt therefore has the two-fold ability to preserve food by directly inhibiting bacterial growth and by reducing the moisture or water activity in meat necessary for bacterial growth. In pre-refrigeration times, particularly where pork products were cured, consumers noticed that certain types of salt contributed to the fixing of the pink color to hams, which would otherwise turn a grayish color after curing. Later researchers determined that the particular salts used in the curing process had trace amounts of sodium nitrate. Sodium nitrate is source of nitrite, and the reduction of nitrite to nitric oxide reacts with the myoglobin (the muscle pigment) to contribute to the characteristic cured flavor and reddish-pink color of cured pork. Researchers also found that nitrite directly inhibits the outgrowth of Clostridium botulinum, a deadly microorganism which produces toxins that result in botulism [FN omitted]. Although the use of nitrates and nitrites will aid in the reduction of undesirable bacteria, I have omitted it. If you so desire to experiment with these cure agents, you have to be careful to mix the salt and saltpeter in the recommended proportions since saltpeter is poisonous in higher concentrations (if you are curing large cuts of meat, such are hams, you must use the cure agents to ensure a proper cure). Alternatively, you can buy pre-mixed curing mixes from commercial manufactures like Morton’s. Since duck meat has a higher content of myoglobin, it is often considered a “dark meat” rather than a “white meat” and may benefit form the use of nitrate or nitrite in the curing process to help fix the color. However, as I mentioned, I did not use it and the duck ended up turning into a desirable mahogany color. Lastly, chilling is a method which can be used in conjunction with dry curing to significantly reduce the chances of microbial growth. Bacteria thrive at temperatures between 41° and 140° Fahrenheit [FN omitted]. Since I live in Virginia, I was particularly interested in traditional Smithfield ham curing. I found it that it was common in Virginia to cure the pork hams during the months of December and January, where the ambient temperature averaged between 36° and 41° degrees. As one curing expert put it, “Bone Sour” was the description applied to meats which spoiled by too high of temperatures during the cure process, which is caused by bacteria that attack the interior of the meat when the meat temperature is allowed to rise above normal refrigeration (he also noted it had smell that one could not forget as a spoiled ham). Bone Sour occurs in dry cured, large cuts of meat because of the time required for the cure to reach the interior of the meat [FN omitted]. Thus, in the race between bacterial growth and the completion of the curing process, chilling helps ensure that the race is won by the cure process. Hence my preference for refrigerator curing. On to the recipe… Ingredients: 1 – 1 lb+ large duck Magret breast (the one I used was 1.15 lbs) ½ cup kosher salt 1½ tbs dried juniper berries 1½ tbs whole black pepper corns 1 tbs coriander seeds 2 tsp paprika 2 tsp Aleppo pepper 1 cotton rag, about 12” square, washed and dried (but do not use any perfumed detergent) First, you must make sure your refrigerator is above 36°. If the temperature is below 36°, the salt will not be absorbed (and the moisture extracted) and thus a proper cure will not occur. Conversely, your refrigerator should not be above 41°, or you run the risk of microbial growth (and not just in the duck breast). Day 1: Place the duck breast unwrapped in a small dish, but covered with a paper towel in the refrigerator for at least 24 hours to allow some of the moisture to evaporate. Day 2: Grind the juniper berries, black pepper and coriander seeds in a spice mill until only a few coarse bits remain. Mix thoroughly with the salt, paprika and Aleppo pepper. If the duck fat is greater than 3/8” thick, trim slightly in slivers until its approximately 3/8” thick (the fat trimming is optional). Divide the salt mixture in half and reserve half of the salt mixture for Day 5 salting. Rub the duck breast thoroughly with the salt mixture and place skin side up in a dish slightly larger than the duck breast. Pour the rest of the salt mixture on top of the duck and place in the refrigerator covered only with a fresh paper towel. Day 3: Change the paper towel on Day 3 (the duck moisture should be weeping and the salt at the bottom should be damp and clumpy, this is ok). Day 4: Change the paper towel and redistribute the dry salt in the dish onto any areas where the salt has fallen off or has been dissolved. Turn the breast over so the skin side is down. Day 5: Place the duck breast on a paper towel. Lay the cloth flat and sprinkle generously with salt mixture. Place the breast on the cloth and add more salt, carefully covering all sides best as you can. Roll the cloth up and tie the ends of the cloth with twine. Place the breast back in the refrigerator. Day 6-12: The duck should continue weeping slightly and eventually stop. Turn the breast over on alternating days. Day 13: Unwrap the duck breast. It should be fully cured. Using a vegetable brush, lightly brush the excess salt and spices from the breast. The breast should be stored wrapped with plastic wrap or in a ziplock bag; left uncovered it will eventually dry out. Serving: Use a very sharp knife to slice thin slices. I find that the chilled breast is easier to slice with the skin side down. I have no idea how long the breast will last; purportedly since it was cured it should last (refrigerated) for several weeks, note however that when the breast is sliced open, the interior becomes exposed and is subject to the introduction of microbes at the exposed site. Footnotes omitted, but here are some sources Rapid and Quantitative Detection of the Microbial Spoilage of Meat by Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy and Machine Learning, David I. Ellis, et al. Institute of Biological Sciences, Department of Computer Sciences, University of Wales, Aberystwyth, Ceredigion SY23 3DD, Wales, United Kingdom, Received 13 September 2001/ Accepted 14 March 2002. “Curing of Meat and Poultry Products”, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Food Safety and Inspection Service Publication. Safety of Duck and Goose…From Farm to Table, Publication of Food Safety and Inspection Service, USDA, Feb 2003 Graham, Paul P., et al., Dry Curing Virginia Style Ham, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University Publication 458-223, Revised 1998, pg 2.

Safely is the operative word here. In my opinion (and by my standards), no. Bacteria thrive between 41 and 140 degrees. BUt you can cure duck safely in a refrigerator. When I get home later, if Mikeycooks doesn't mid, I'll post my recipe, technique, some background info on why I believe this method is safest and maybe a few pictures.

I have successfully made duck prosciutto using a modified recipe for Peterson's The Duck Cookbook (who credits La Cuisine Gourmande). My modified recipe using a dry salt cure without nitrites or nitrates. I haven't had any mold growth. You refer to a "marinade", is this a brine liquid? Perhaps the moisture content of the meat at the time of hanging is creating the conditions for mold growth. (I personally would be more concerned about the moisture content becasue of potential bacterial growth more than anything else.) You're a daring guy. I was reluctant to cure by hanging the duck in my basement (as Peterson's recipe recommends) or in my wine cellar out of fear of bacterial growth. After researching the issue, I now cure in my refrigerator at 39 degrees (i.e., below 41 degrees where bacterial growth begins).

Count me for 1 for now (Mrs is out of town), but I may get another Indian-lovin companion to join us.

Sara, I have to comment on the chardonnay comment. I'm a wino-o, buy and drink way too much wine (have a walk-in temp controlled wine cellar at home, etc) but my wine-saavy friends (incl. Mrs BBQ) will often ask for a glass of white or Chard not out of a lack of knowledge or interest but because the house white will often suffice for the time being until a bottle is selected. Oftentimes the server will respond with a list of whites or chards available by the glass. Prompting the server to give this info is appropriate, its part of the service. I just didn't share in your amusement with the chardonnay incident.

that's my understanding too. A common dish I see in Vietnamese restaurants around here is steak with a mushroom wine sauce, hardly a jungle dish

My understanding is hominy = pozole = grits (when ground). The skin of the corn is removed by being soaked in lime water (mineral, not citrus) or wood ash. cornmeal = mush = polenta with variious sizes, fine to coarse. I would love to be corrected if I have this wrong. I just add to clarify: Hominy Grits are grits is made from hominy as you describe it. The dried kernels are then ground into grits (the finer grind is how masa flour is made-ie for tortillas). "Southern" Grits: Dried ground corn, ground coarsely or medium coarse. The finer grind makes cornmeal. Grits are tradtionally white because of the type of corn ground (white), but you can get yellow artisan grits, ground from yellow corn. Cornmeal is typically ground from yellow corn. But as you might guess, you can get it white or even blue from some artisan mills. Polenta: yellow dried corn ground fine (ie cornmeal).

Pim thanks. Easyguru, it does have a slight sour taste, more astringent though. But I didn't take huge bite or anything like that out of fear that I'd be stained for the day. Need to keep a smile that looks like this:

Anyone know what kind of turmeric this is? I've been looking for fresh turmeric (for thai cooking) and my mom just sent me some of this. She said they called it "yellow ginger" back on the island. The flesh is orange, like a carrot. Sorry about pic quality, it was from my camera phone. But its my first posted pic, a cool feature I just figured out. Edit: I just spoke with my mom who said on the island, they call this mango (pronounced mang-o, not man-goe like the fruit) or yellow ginger. Same stuff as above?

My housekeeper is from Bolivia and she said they use them there too. She sautes onions, garlic and tomatoes and adds the panca paste, simmers for while and adds chicken and a little stock. Couldn't get much more out of her. Since my post I have made both panca and amarillo aioli with roasted quail. Also, I sweat sliced onions, garlic and add some panca and tomato and use it as a base for grilled flank and fresh tortilla tacos. I've gone thru a couple of jars so far this way. I see it now regularly in the latin grocery stores here in DC, more than 1 brand. Somebody's got to be cooking with it

I love adding cheese to my grits. My latest combo: half sharp cheddar and half bleu cheese. But you really have to use stone ground grits to get the full effect of good cheesy grits, none of that instant or quick cooking stuff.

As expected the location makes for good deal making and politiking. Nice digs. Not my choice but the table ordered the mixed seafood platter (supersized for 6) for the appetizer. The oysters were nice because they were fresh shucked but the seafood (crab, lobster and shrimp) was stale, you could taste "walk-in" infused in the meat. But then again, its a steakhouse and I wouldn't have chosen the seafood platter for an appetizer. For my entree, I ordered the 18oz NY bone-on strip, medium rare. It came Medium to MW. Damn it, I hate overcooked steaks, especially at a steakhouse. I didn't send it back because I was with clients, but I wasn't happy. We did kill a couple of bottles 97 Shafer Hillside Select, good juice.

Now I'm horribly homesick! I grew up near the Finger Lakes..... Niagra and Concord grapes, nothing else like them...grape pie...yum

Overrated-its just a burger. Fries are good but greasy and hate the smell of malt vinegar, which abounds at the 5 guys I went to (but happily tolerate it when there are fish and chips being served, not burgers).

BBQ - You're killing me. We've shared the transcontinental voyage, it would seem. Born and bred Venturan, lived most of my life since then in less temperate climes (New England, Chicago and, soon, the Upper Peninsula of Michigan). Put a call through to my aunt and uncle, who have dozens of avocado trees in the front and back yards alone, and satsuma plums; how to get the things I feasted on as a kid to us in "da U.P." Never had Silver Queen white corn, to my knowledge. Where can I get it? Paul Paul, Silver Queen is grown in MD and VA, but around here the "best" comes from the eastern shore of MD. I grew up in the proverbial armpit of Ventura County, Oxnard, on the southside, later moving to Camarillo. Nothing but strawberries (and lemons) between. A few years ago, I told some East coast friends that the best strawberries come for the stand and hand carried some back to prove it. I now get a whole flat shipped Federal Express from my mom every year Next delivery on Thursday. Oh yes avacados, the "rich" people planted them on their land as an investment back in the 70s. Blows me away, though, that they cost the same there as they do here.

From my West Coast roots, strawberries from Ventura County, the overripe ones only available on the stand picked that morning... From my East coast experience, Silver Queen white corn.

I don't know of anyone who cooks Blue crabs here that kills them first. Cook em live. Also the first time I've heard about the claw thing. Maybe somebody on the Louisiana board can weigh in too (ie Mayhaw Man, et al), they eat alot blue crabs down their way (in fact most of the blue we are seeing are from the gulf; the MD crabs are probably just coming out of the mud now).

Maybe you have had better luck with Ashby then I have, but I have found it to be lacking both for brunch and dinner. I have given a couple of chances for both and will probably never go back. A better choice for dinner in this area is Auberge Provencale. I think Ashby benefits from the fact there is not alot of competition out here. Alsop Four and Twenty Blackbirds is wonderful for both brunch and dinner. The ambiance at The Ashby is really nice part. The food is (in my experience) was satisfactory, some courses being below avergae and some being very good. You and I differ on L'Auberge Provencal. I didn't like it at all, especially given the price. Now, I like 4&20 Blackbirds. Four & Twenty Blackbirds might offer a good balance ambiance, quality food and a reasonable price, if one could get Mothers Day reservations.

I'll vouch for their deli cheese and meats, friends and I have purchased both. Since I'm not a big cheese person, I can't tell you, for example, how their gorgonzola ranks, but we were happy with the cheese and deli meat for what it is. If we want artisan cheese, we'd buy from another place instead.

Can't you just ask them to cut a fresh wedge for you? The butcher at Safeway has done this for me in the past with regard to meat. Most people can't tell the difference between abused and un-abused cheese is my guess anyways.

I don't know where you are located but if you want ot get out of the metro area, the Hunters Head in Upperville, VA and Ashby Inn in Paris, VA (both 10 and 15 miles, respectively, west of Middleburg on Rt 50) do a Mothers Day brunch.

Hre's the rundown: Maryland: no corkage Virginia: no corkage DC: yes, on a restaurant by restaurant basis. Rocks gives good advice, I'd only add one more: offer a taste to your sommelier or server; oftentimes the goodwill is returned.