John Talbott

Friends: Could I request that we not use the Forum to encourage questionably legal or borderline irregular regulatory issues. PM’s or emails between friends are another matter. And, we have indeed discussed this before here and here, as well as in other threads listed in our compendium. Thanks, John

Today I delivered on my yearly promise to take my French colleagues to lunch at a place that represents the cuisine of the city we’re meeting in. Thus we found ourselves at the Barrio Logan location of Porkyland, 2196 Logan, where I treated my five guests and myself to carnitas in various preparations, which when doused with peppers and salsa were terrific (one citing the “porkiness,” even though I’d given her the name and concept before, had chicken.) Our bill, a world’s record for this gang = $26.12. The evening’s meal was a bit more classy at Guild, 1805 Newton Ave., with my Americophilic-Franco-Romanian pal. If you haven’t been, it’s wonderful albeit only 4 month’s old; the Guild name is because of the arty design/furniture/art/etc down to the bathroom (1), the staff (all artists or aspiring) and the metal/wood workshop visible through the floor-length window in the back; the food a blend of Latin/French and American, reflecting the Argentinian chef’s journey through cooking life and the dedication to guild-like artisinal food. We started with sharing a queso roasted pasilla with feta, gorgonzola and roja cream (which was divine, indeed it all was!) and then split a Japanese fish preparation special that I really cannot describe (but it was good to the last bite) and the mahi-mahi tacos. We then made a strategic (or was it tactical) error in ordering three cheeses thinking, silly Western Europeans that we aspire to be, that they’d be Californian, but they were French and Italian, good, indeed perfect, but, you know, not what we’d set our hearts on. They then compt’d us to a passion fruit martini, (yes for dessert), recognizing my distinguished guest as a man not to be dealt lightly with. My buddy rated it as a 9/10; me 6.5, but I’m a tough guy to please. Go back? In a flash, but why do the hotel clerks keep telling us it’s a tough area? These guys don’t know burgeoning food districts. The bill, oh, the bill. OK, for all that plus a bottle and a half of Spanish wine = $85.12 before the tip. Oh, I forgot, my concierge paid me a tribute I've not received since 1970 at the Hotel Regina in Paris - their kudos - "Sir, you have some list of restaurants." Last time, it was member Paga, this time, Paga, his son Fils d'Élan and all the eGullet members who've tried to steer me in the correct direction.

Ahright, since we're brainstorming; altho' I've already written about it, there's a little known island off Noirmoutier/Fromentine (I know, you've had it with water, but this is special) called the ile d'Yeu, where there are fewer than 1000 folk, was the tuna fishing fleet base, thus great fish, and has not only wonderful farm(ed) products (haricots verts, chevre, oysters) but great coasts (rugged South, beachy northeast) and is so small one can (with one's children and grandchildren) easily bike around it and, and, and a refugee from Paris's resto scene Nicolas Vagnon whose new place is great. Talk about heaven.

For sure!

John, Long time no speak...since my experience at ZKG, I have seen it mentioned positively a number of times and wonder how? To be fair, I only tried it once and there is such a thing as an off night, but the memories linger nonetheless. Molto E ← I too have already spoken my piece upthread and continue to go to Ze every three months when Colette's in town. The negative reports just don't compute with my dozen plus experiences. But then maybe this is an example of the old Will Rogers quote about differences of opinion making a horse race.

Looks pretty good to me. Is there any type or sort of place you're craving? John

I am hesitant to post this for fear of starting the Customs' Food War up again, but today's NYT has an article written by Steve Jenkins, outspoken genius of the Fairway Cheese department and author of the "Cheese Primer," that states that "My information is that raw milk cheeses and cured meats are perfectly O.K. to bring home for personal consumption. But it seems that many customs agents are misinformed and have chosen to interpret the law in their own fashion." He goes on, however, to state that he declares "everything" and only occasionally has problems, citing the seizure of some Spanish "fried pork rinds."

I'll second the area; we stayed and ate and shopped and drank very well indeed between the two Loir(e)s.

Like Pti I cannot vouch for these: Les Jardins De Provence, 55, Rue de Provence in the 9th 01 42 81 59 88 La Petite Provence, 8, Rue Pot de Fer in the 5th 01 43 36 89 24 Restaurant Petite Provence, 69, Rue des Dames in the 17th 01 45 22 03 03 but maybe someone else can.

Type something like café or Joël Robuchon in Word, then cut and paste. But a few years ago the Society issued a policy not to use accents in order to make searching uniform. See here:

Well, interesting you should endorse Chive. I had to do medical meeting stuff for breakfast and lunch today (respectively at the Omni and Candelas), that actually weren't half-bad, indeed, the margarita "Cadillac" and empanada with mushrooms, salad and chiles rellenos and espressos ristrettos at the latter were quite good.But after a rather more than OK cocktail reception at the Maritime Museum aka the "Berkeley," catered by Contintental, I headed out for San Diego's best taco place, the Mexican Fiesta on India between Ash & Beach and wouldn't you know, my source forgot to tell me it was a lunch place. So grab a cab home and gosh there was Chive at 9 o'clock, no space, no rez, but the bar - oh yes. So it's Mad Mondays, which is 50% off wine, OK. I repeated last nite's Ten Mile (carignane, petite syrah, zin & barbara.) Then an intense consume with chili oil and lemon grass and glass noodles and spring roll (now hold on) with two sauce bowls of (1) an English pea puree with not enuf wasabi, a (2) mango coulis with not enuf oompf and (3) a cole slaw with ginger which was perfect. End of story, I retired from the field of play, a happy man.

I agree with Busboy, What a lovely dilemma to have. As everyone knows, I'm Pariscentric, but if be told (a la The Road) that I could not live in Paris, given your parameters of food and place, I'd do Annecy, Languedoc or the Ile de Yeu. (specifics given on demand)

Day 2: Business lunch at the Westgate, not totally bad, but hotel stuff after all: salad nice, tomato soup and unmemorable main. Fine iced tea. Dinner at Chive, however, was quite another matter; quite El Bulli, Alinea, Les Magnolias. Two of us shared the beet terrine (very inventive), scallops with black forbidden rice (terrific) and sweetbreads kung pao with green bamboo rice (so good) and then the Moroccan spiced chicken with lime yogurt (who would'ave thought?) and duck breast (perfectly underdone) with bok choy, etc., ending with the apple/rhubarb galette. With the cheapest Ten Mile wine ($32) the bill was a very reasonable $113.68. Go back? Right soon!

As an inveterate reader of newspapers for the Digest on the French Forum I always hit the Sunday NYT and todays had one of those "36 hours in...." articles, this on Baltimore, by David Allen that mentioned: Obrycki's, the Blue Moon Cafe, Attman's, the Helmand + the Brewer's Art.

Radio France + Relaxnews announced that from May 24 – June 30, Cyril Lignac, he from TV’s “Oui Chef” will be giving courses on the parvis at La Defense based on fresh veggies and fruits (for instance May 24th it’s 2:30-5:30 PM). Sign up at 0800.858.563. In addition, they announced the opening May 21st of Helene Darroze’s new Southwestern cooking bistrot at 12, rue de l’Hotel Colbert in the 5th. Finally, they announced the opening of two new places – Jour + Viaggio in the Printemps-owned sports store, the Citadium, in the 9th.

Hard to believe given this thread’s title but this weekend’s Figaro had an article (only in their hard copy or pdf version, not on the website) by Sylvain Ouchikh on the competition in Rhodes for the Best Sommelier of the Year. This is the 12th; it’s held every three years; people train as if for the Olympics and this year’s favorites include an Alsatian-Frenchman working in the UK - Éric Zwibel, an Italian - Fabio Masi, an French-born Anglosaxon - Gérard Basset, a Japanese - Yoichi Sato and a German - Jurgen Fendt. The testing involves a written exercise, blind-tasting, matching wine to food and serving difficult customers. To return to the three star sommelier issue, from the article one sees that rather than go to starred restos, the winners go on to prestigious careers in national and international organizations.

To step across the border for a while, let me refer you to our thread on eating during the Tour de France where I mentioned a dessert named after the Giro, now long forgotten. Haivart: I too would like more details.

Thanks Carlsbad; I've only been here for 8 hours but so far I've had an impressive lunch of a great halibut taco at Tin Fish, with weird but tasty latticed fried potatoes and wonderfully raw coleslaw and a dinner with Pacific oysters, cote de boeuf, giant lima beans, zucchini with cheese, salad of fresh greens, string beans, etc., and cookies at a private venue (the point being, that the product in the markets here is terrific.)

I know you know, but for those searching, we do have a compendium on the Alsace area.

As one of the ancien hosts of the French Forum, Robert, I thank you and wish you well. Best, John

I think there are folks out there who'd love an update on places. I too love Annecy and try to get there every year. So, members, pile on!

I am in no way a "wine expert" but rather a bottom feeder where wine lists go but I recall "Burgundy Stars," the story of Bernard Loiseau's reach for the stars, and if memory serves me, he had the same sommelier as he went higher & higher. It's hard for me to believe that someone who trusts his/their sommelier would switch if he/they got more stars.

Thanks. I suspect one night standing, one night sitting.

A question relating to food around the Convention Center and Hilton Gaslight. I'll be at cocktail/snacking receptions in the early evening and will probably be searching for a bite to eat at unpredictable times (therefore I don't want to make reservations) as well as have an unpredictable appetite (therefore no fancy places) and preferably eat ethnic (esp not French.) I appreciate any and all suggestions as to where to go within walking distance. Thanks. John

More news from Radio France: a new Irish pub with Wifi has opened in St Germain called the Little Temple Bar, 12, rue Princesse in the 6th.