John Talbott

I drifted by the last one at the GP supposedly run by a famous chef and as interesting as it sounds on paper, in the flesh neither the choices nor the atmosphere equalled going to a real restaurant. I don't know if they even really have a kitchen or prepare things elsewhere and finish them off at the GP. I suppose if you're there for an exhibition it'd be OK.

Wonderful descriptions, pictures and mysteries, therese, keep it up.

How funny… Last night on M6 there was a programme all about how to make a perfect steak frites and during the show Daniel Rose (from Spring) goes to what I think was a Belgium French fry shop in Paris to learn the secret of perfect French fries. I had never heard of the shop and tried Google and Pagesjaunes to no avail, I wonder if it’s this place. ← No idea. A long time ago, way upthread, we were discussing those little jutting out fast-food places in Paris that dispensed frites or crepes or now paninis. Not many left but this place is so small it has no telephone apparently. One of us will have to drift by.

The Week of May 7th, 2007 Sunday April 29th, in the NYT, Kim Severson had an article on tartiflette in and around Annecy that mentioned: Le Freti, La Ferme de la Charbonniere + le Chalet la Pricaz. Monday, in Le Fooding Johanna Kaufmann wrote up Oncle Georges in Pfettisheim. Richard Hesse in Tuesday’s Paris Update very enthusiastically reviewed the 8-month old Pramil, 9, rue du Vertbois in the 3rd, 01 42 72 03 60, which he says serves the old “Les Halles” favorites and they had the calf’s foot, cauliflower cake, lamb stew, strawberries and figs. {While I liked my meal here in November, I went right at the time I was blown away by that at Spring, and I probably should return.} Monday/Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger gave 3/5 blocks to an Italian snacking place La Salumeria in the 9th but his colleague Philippe Toinard only gave 2/5 to l’Agassin, coordinates given before, in the 7th, where the chef Andre Le Letty, ex of Anacreon disappointed him with food too heavy for the season, including sauces that overwhelmed or drowned products. Tuesday, l’Express printed its usual three reviews: François-Régis Gaudry reviewed La Salumeria, an off-shoot of La Pizzetta in the 9th; Marie-Amal Bizalion reviewed La Sardine de Marseille in Marseille; and Pierrick Jegu reviewed l’Ordonnance , 51, rue Hallé, in the 14th, 01-43-27-55-85, two courses cost 23 €, three = 29 €, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, which has a real old bistrot look and serves seasonal fare such as rabbit terrine, sautéed tuna and strawberries with mascarpone. Tuesday the WSJ had an article/box on Dijon suggesting one eat at Au Bon Pantagruel. Wednesday in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin did one of the most interesting things I’ve seen in a long time; he reviewed two restos on two floors of the same place – Hanawa, 26, rue Bayard in the 8th, 01.56.62.70.70, open everyday. In the basement is Hanawa Teppanyaki, (teppanyaki meaning broiled on a steel grill) to which he awarded two hearts for fare such as meat, veggies and fish cooked facing one for 80-100 € but a busted heart to its upstairs sibling, plain old Hanawa, that serves Japanese omelets, sushi at indecent prices and a moelleux of chocolate (which they had no more of despite taking his order) for 50-60 € a person. Two straight hearts went to Chez Leon, 40 rue Legendre in the 17th (the address rings a bell because it’s the street on which the Table de Lucullus sat) 01.42.27.06.82, closed weekends, with a new team serving 24 and 32 lunch menus and 28 and 34 diner ones, a la carte 35 € for cod, veal kidneys and Paris-Brests. One heart each also went to Xylo, allee de la Grande Gerbe in the St Cloud park, 01.46.89.79.06, closed Sundays serving light fare such as Caesar salad, a salmon snack and tart on week-day lunch menus for 24 and 30 €, a la carte 30-35 €; and one heart to the Bistro de la Muette, 10, chaussee de la Muette in the 16th, 01.45.03.14.84, open everyday, lunch menu at 24.50, menu at 34 €, serving half-cooked duck foie gras, lobster raviolis and millefeuille. Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week covered places with new decors that they categorized as: Dazzling Brasserie du Printemps Fantastic Chez Ozu Vintage Chez Unico Barococo-Surrealistic A l’Eclaireur Glitter Chez Rich Very black Au Black Calvados Very designery Au Saut de Loup And also : Cristal Room Baccarat, Les Ombres + Apicius {But I had trouble seeing how Francois Simon fit in because the décor is unchanged at his} Haché menu place this week - Chez Rene, coordinates given already, where you should only go if you live nearby. Jean Clause Ribaut in an article Wednesday-Thursday in Le Monde talked of the spring bounty, esp of asparagus and petit pois; giving some historical quotes and context, recipes and preparations from the big guys (eg at Passiflore, Guy Savoy, Vong, Mori + Lasserre) and current thoughts (good petit pois are hard to come by and expensive – “rares et chers”). Friday, timed to coincide with the Film Festival in Cannes, Jean Louis Galesne reviewed several places there: La Palme d'or, Le Restaurant arménien, l’Hôtel de Mougins + Le Cigalon. Friday as well, Vincent Noce in Liberation had an article on asparagus and its preparation, especially at L'Atelier de Jöel Robuchon, Le Macéo + Daniel. Saturday/Sunday, BP published an article by Margaret Kemp on Ledoyen and one by John Talbott on "The Politics of Food." Rosa Jackson, in “Paris Bites” in Paris Notes wrote up the Bistrot Paul Bert generally liking it, albeit some dishes lacked punch and La Ferme des Mathurins, which again was not quite on the simplicity target but was “passionate.” Adrian Moore in GoGo Paris loved d’Chez Eux in the 7th. Nick Lander wrote this weekend about several places one should cross town to eat at: le Meurice, Rech, Cameleon + Le Parc aux Cerfs. The monthly Optimum had a series of brief notes about new places in town, coordinates given before unless specified: Yes Breizh Café Yes, Yes Les Akolytes In spite of Cheribibi But yes La Pavillion Puebla See l’Oriental Why not? Le Bistrot des Faubourgs Whatever Serafina Whatever again Café Lumiere Surely not Les Grandes Marches Never Love The freebie Voyages d’Affaires for April May wrote up three places for business travelers l’Arome, Le Saut de Loup + Le Rich. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

May 3rd, Natasha in the 14th reopened under new chef/management and in June, Dominique Loiseau will open a new place in Beaune. In addition May 14 - June 30, six Starwood restaurants will feature edible flowers at 39-85 Euros a pop (the restos include Le First, L'Orénoc + le Montparnasse 25). Finally, the L'Hôtel La Trémoille in the 8th opened its new resto May 10th. Edited by John Talbott to complete incomplete post.

Host's note: I split this off from our Restaurant, Food and Chef News due to its popularity In the "Petites Notes" section of Paris Notes there's a note that the first Belgian frites "fritkot" serving frites with 12 sauces has opened at 101 Rue Oberkampf in the 11th, right near the Parmentier metro stop.

Awaiting Tuesday with baited breath, Therese.Love it, so far. John

I assume you've checked out our compendia on such shops?As for brasseries the first night: there's really only Bofinger but it's fun; avoid Les Grandes Marches which just reopened to resoundingly bad reviews. ← Thanks John, I did look at the compendia but did not see much in this particular neighborhood and I was hoping to get some reccommendations from people familiar with the area. ← Cool. Then let me through in a couple of other ideas (not knowing exactly where in the 3rd you will be): Au Bascou + Les Enfants Rouges - the former that has recently been revamped and reviewed by Laidback and myself, the latter stronger on wines than plats but a fascinating local hangout for chefs. The market Les Enfants Rouges, itself, is nice but they have a Japanese take-out place (there are communal tables for the food folk) Chez Taeko that I have not had time to sample but that all the reviewers, including Adrian Moore of GoGo Paris liked.

I assume you've checked out our compendia on such shops?As for brasseries the first night: there's really only Bofinger but it's fun; avoid Les Grandes Marches which just reopened to resoundingly bad reviews.

For those so inclined, there's also an audio slide show at nytimes.com/travel

I'd hate to put a curse on that table but it is the very best in order to watch Daniel work, listen to his iPod selections, and chat a bit when he's not pressed.And welcome to posting on the France Forum Daniel, we need another informed voice from the piano.

Ptit took the words out of my mouth; I was going to suggest you check our Compendium on Pastry shops thread and think about taking some to your apt/hotel to eat or going to an upscale place like Laduree or a nice tea salon, about which we have a thread too.

Wonderful pix, as we've come to expect from you Laidback. Terrific!

The Week of April 30th, 2007 Saturday, Francois Simon’s “Croque Notes” in Le Figaro concerned itself with Christophe Cadieu in Saint-Savin (Vienne) where he ate what the chef called mere country food which was terrific, despite two boorish Parisians. Monday, in Le Fooding Sebastien Demorand wrote up Le Bourg in Chaintré. Monday/Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard gave two/five blocks to Rest’o Cocotte, 61, rue Fessart in Boulogne-Billancourt, 0148.25.31.78, menu at lunch 16, menu-carte 39 €, that was “not his cup of tea,” being a bit simplistic and lacking pizzazz {my trans.}; meanwhile Jerome Berger reviewed and also gave two/five blocks to Da Vincenzo Cozzoli au Pavillon Puebla coordinates given before, that serves Italian food not up to the level of other places. Tuesday, l’Express printed its usual three reviews: François-Régis Gaudry reviewed Cheribibi, coordinates given before and calls the food there fatally “Bobocratique;” Pierrick Jegu reviewed Ribouldingue, where after just a year, the owner has turned over the piano to a 24-year old, ex-Helene Darroze by the name of Sarah Baraudon, who prepares the same dishes as before and appears to be “promising;” and Marie-Amal Bizalion reviewed Les Akolytes in Marseille. Richard Hesse in this week’s Paris Update went to another established place, Ze Kitchen Galerie where he loved his first and dessert but was less impressed by the main. Wednesday in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin awarded two hearts to two restos: the fish-place Le Winch {twice misspelled Wynch}, coordinates and my review upthread serving a “not very incisive" tartare of salmon with wasabi, a good piece of mackerel and a tajine-like plate of dorade as well as another place {I reviewed recently} Le Bistrot de l’Alycastre, coordinates also given before, serving well-carried out scallops and risotto and roasted mango. One heart each went to the pizzeria Gambino in the 1st and the banal Indian place The Party in the 3rd. Finally he gave a busted heart to Acaba d’Entrar in the 2nd. Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week covered places where you make your meal yourself: Make a salad Jour Choose a cocktail Wanna Juice Cook a meal Wok Garnish a sandwich Cosi, Eigi, Watt + Wokbar Mix up a bibimbap Samin Cook a bulgogi Samo Prepare a tartare No Stress Cafe Make a spring roll Le Refectoire Learn how to cook dishes l’Atelier des chefs Take your meal out Kit a bien manger, Premiere Etoile + Les Dines de Berenice Help yourself Cave a l’Os a moelle Francois Simon, in his Haché menu sticks to the theme, of the “Dossier” sort-of, by going to Spoon, coordinates given already, where you pick your own preparations and sauces and thinks you should go, despite the price (156.60 € for two without alcohol). This Saturday, Francois Simon’s “Croque Notes” was entitled Nantes and its paradoxes. He talks of three different experiences, one, eating industrial soul-less food in a cafeteria in a mall, the second, eating supposedly sophisticated food that didn’t work in a gastronomic restaurant la Maison Baron Lefèvre and the third (the only place he recommends you go for splendid meal) a gourmet bistro - le Relais d’Orvault. Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote an article in Le Monde on the grandeur of small places citing Au Petit Bar, Baribal, L'Olivier, Le Marsangy, Lou Pescadou, L'Ami Georges, Le Colibri, Les Glaneurs + Polidor as his principal examples but also le Temps au temps, le Bistrot Bourdelle + l'Assignat . In this weekend’s Figaro Madame, Alexandra Michot had two articles about flavoring olive oil with essences of say, basil, as Frederic Poitou does as are mentioned in a new book – Cuisiner avec les huiles essentielles et les eaux florales, Valérie et Emmanuel Curpillard, éditions La Plage. Saturday/Sunday, BP published an article by Margaret Kemp on Pic and one by John Talbott on Eating in groups. Sunday, the JDD featured chef Nicolas Masse from Saint Jean de Luz’s choices for places in Paris for under 35 €: l’Angl’Opera + le Refectoire. In addition, Astrid T’Serclaes reviewed M Comme Martine, {ironically, where I had eaten the day before, where she saw/ate more Italian items than I did. I’ll be posting the review soon.} May’s Where has several recommendations by Alexander Lobrano, the Royal Madeleine, Saut de Loup, Café M + Pre Catalan. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

May 07 – Fables de la Fontaine, Rich, l’Office, Autour de…., M comme Martine, Breizh Café, Dan Bau, Café de la Paix, Chez Papa, Drouant You can go home again, even when it gets a star and is turned over to the loyal lieutenants. 7.0 Les Fables of Fontaine, 131, rue Saint-Dominique in the 7th, 01 44 18 37 55, closed Sundays and Mondays, was recently taken over by two of Christian Constant’s folk (Sebastien Gravé and David Bottreau) as Laidback reported a month ago. So as someone, who except for one aberrant meal, has done very well, indeed, there, I had to revisit, this time with a charming guest from one of the Southern states. The décor, etc, is the same, and M. Constant came in at 12h30 in mufti to greet the regulars, check in and chat with the staff. As before, everything is on the ardoise but to my eyes the prices are a bit higher and there (again by me) seemed to be more plain fish. The amuse gueule was/were a creamy “soup” of parmesan and asparagus and my guest started with what was called a beet gazpacho with shrimp, but was a huge funnel-shaped glass, both echoes of Les Magnolias, with chopped shrimp on the bottom with some mango below it and on top; both were top of the line – but as we glanced at the other tables, they looked to be doing just as well. Then I had the halibut fixed the same way (asparagus with sauce and a slice of crispy jambon/jamon) as the lieu on the carte but 10 € more; while my dining partner had the bar with jamon/jambon and confited eggplant. Both were worthy of a one-star resto, even though the decor, napery, flowers (lack thereof), etc are not. My friend finished with a banana mascarpone with black cherries. Both the bread and coffee were pretty good and the wine comes by the glass, 25 or 50 cl carafes or bottle and is reasonably priced – 21 €. Our bill with two prunes was 117 €. Should one go? For the one-star quality fish and inventive starters alone. The October surprise (and it’s only May) 6.0 Rich, 14, rue Cadet in the 9th, 01.48.01.87.87, menus at 25 and 30 € (the big boys say, but I only saw the menu-carte for three courses at 35 €), but running one up to 70 € a la carte without wine, is located in the old bourse where precious stones are or were polished/prepared/sold/who knows? It is elegance itself. Wow! Upstairs is a baccarat-gaming/etc tabled bar/boite and downstairs a hip bar but on the ground floor is one of the nicest looking places I’ve been in, in years. When I first read about it in Figaroscope, I thought – ho hum, 2 hearts, and 3 blocks by Toinard was equally unrevealing, but when it placed second in the running (to Spring natch) in Figaroscope’s ratings of new places this spring, that caught my attention. So off to the center of precious stone-kosher resto-land. It’s just across the street from Le 7eme Sens which has a great chalkboard sign saying: “We speak English or at least we try.” Anyway, Rich is rich, in a great setting, warm welcome, fab home-made bread. Good signs. I chose the fried gambas (4) with two sauces (spicy tomato and spicy vinegar) that exceeded the Bistrot Cote Mer 1990’s standard. Then I had the breast of chicken with a satay sauce and terrific rice (flavored with tea or jasmin or both.) (P. Gagnaire was correct, Asian influences are all over and Choukroun, Ledeuil and the Fooding bunch are to be commended for this.) NB: there were lots of other choices: soups, salads, fish and meat courses as well as cheeses and desserts. Since I had some wine left (no ½’s but glasses are 6 and bottles start at 24 €,) I had two huuuuge slices of Corsican tomme with a wonderful fig confiture and a generous salad – just great. Open 7/7 (therefore, a great Sunday lunch place). Bill with 2 glasses of wine and coffee = 49.60 €. Have I nothing bad to say? Sure: they have those stupid hand dry blowers in the loos. Q. Go? A. The New York Stone mart should have such a place. Another surprise and at terribly reasonable prices 5.0 L’Office, 3, rue Richer in the 9th, 01.47.70.67.31, closed Saturday night and Sundays (despite what Figaroscope says) is just besides Le Jardinier and near a ton of hotels, making it a great destination for tourists on the prowl for a great, reasonably priced meal. Entering I thought it was quite nice, small (20 covers) but outfitted quite well. Like Spring, which is just up the hill, it’s a one-man band with a teeny kitchen, I mean one oven and a frig and that’s it, forced “menu” at lunch and one server. However, the chef is flexible; after announcing the menu and seeing my face fall, he said of course we can also do…….. and so essentially we did have two choices for 1sts and 2nds which we took. I chose the first from the “menu,” a spectacularly tasty beef bouillon with shreds of omelet, baby onions and fresh halved room-temperature baby tomatoes; my long-lost college classmate – three well-cooked, lovely shrimp on a bed of sautéed onions and something crunchy (Jerusalem artichoke, bleached fennel, hum). Then he had the menu’s stewed pork on a bed of potatoes with a superbly spiced sauce; me – the onglet again cooked to perfection, sliced, sauced, on the bed of potatoes. The dessert was a delicious three layered thing: currant brioche, apricots and a light creamy topping. When the guy asked for our coffee order I said “serre” and he replied “ristretto” – Illy it was. Wines begin at 14 €. Our bill was 48 € for two, that’s correct, for two. At night, the “menu” is 25, but even a la carte is only 30-35 €. Any problems; if pressed, I’d reply that the toilet is small. Otherwise, this is where to send the next person wanting an inexpensive but good meal. Best value of the spring season! Yet another surprise and a pleasant one. 5.0 N* Autour de.…, 397, rue de Vaugirard in the 15th, right near the Porte de Versailles and Convention Center, 01 45 30 18 47, menu 25 € and a la carte around 35 €, is open everyday and has a terrific long “terrace” facing an essentially empty square. I went because the only person I recall reporting on it, Richard Hesse of Paris Update, was quite positive about the new chef’s productions. I had a great starter of sautéed chipirons that, with spinach leaves and fried parsley and anise and dressing, was a terrific combo, which mopped up with good bread was terrific. My main was/were fresh sardines accompanied by asparagus, artichokes and baby tomatoes. I finished with a moelleux of chocolate and salty caramel ice cream – nickel! (And the maitre d’ clearly had read my comment on eGullet last week about the window of time to cook a mi-cuit because he announced it was between 5 and 7 minutes.) The wines run 4+ a glass, 15.50+ for ½ liter and 19+ € a bottle. The subtitle of the place is “Saveurs de Terroir et Autres Histoires” and it really was. Only hitch: they screwed up the initial bill and charged me $10 more than they should of (I had the “menu.”) The second bill presented was 48.50 €. Should one go? If you’re at the Parc des Exhibitions, as I was for the horrendously, awfully big “Foire De Paris,” it’s a better bet than the Restaurant du Marche and nearer than the great Beurre Noisette, so why not? The perfect example of a neighborhood (gay friendly mind you, too) resto you wish you had in NY, LA, Chi or (ouf) Baltimore. 4.3 M Comme Martine, 33, rue Cardinet in the 17th, 01.43.80.63.60, closed Sundays and Monday dinner, has been written up a fair amount, enough to keep reminding me, like a scab asking to be itched, to go. So I went, and it made such an impression on me that I revised my numbering/rating system, see below, because it was so much an honest neighborhood place serving honorable, good food – no less, no more – that I felt I could not do better! Anyway, it’s nowhere (Villiers, Wagram, etc.,) but it’s been done over very nicely; a la Sarko – Cool, Zen, Calme! The host and hostess are very welcoming – as equally to me (an unknown) as the other folk (well known to the house.) It’s small, 32 covers, has a 30 € menu all the time, with wines from 6 a glass and 19 € a bottle up and while not presenting a terribly interesting carte (eg 1sts of a tartare, terrine, salad, etc; fish like tuna and bar, meat like duck, beef and leg of lamb and desserts such as crème caramel, vacherin and clafoutis,) prepares everything perfectly. I ordered a tartare of marinated tuna with sesame seeds and an acidic sauce that was great product, well-prepared and seasoned but just a tad too cold (cf my comment on the oysters at the Breizh Café.) My main was a rolatine of confited veal, crispy dark on the outside edge, then fat, then another layer of meat and fat and inside wonderful veal; all atop spring carrots, perfectly cooked. And finally, a pas mal tiramisu a la Martine (named after, I assume, the woman of a certain age with the whiskey/cigarette voice who greeted me, took orders and helped me don my jacket (a first in fifty years in France) but was a tad too much in your face.) With wine and coffee and no bottled water it comes to 45 €. Should one go? As I say, if you live/rent/hotel in the 17th, I envy you. Go. An upscale crepe or the revenge on Wolfgang Puck 4.1 Breizh Café, 109, Rue Vieille du Temple in the 3rd, 01.42.72.13.77, closed Sundays and Mondays is a really different kind of place than I and I daresay most French eaters have ever experienced and therefore is really unrateable. Why? Because it does to crepes what Wolfgang Puck did with pizza; it turns them on their head; is the third branch of a Japanese outfit; and has two Japanese cooks who turn everything out effortlessly. The décor is what might charitably be called Breton-dock-ferry terminal waiting room modern, that is, strips of unfinished wood. The tables are functional and the menu huge. There must be 20 crepe varieties divided into simple (such as one with one of three Bordier butters), complex (that start with an egg and usually have cheese, a meal/fish and something else) and the daily chalkboard specials (with provincial names like Auvergnate, Cancaloise, etc. that are also composed of a regional cheese, fish or meat and other items.) We started off with 6 Tzarskaya oysters (apparently a favorite of the Tsar/Tzar) that were great with a “simple” crepe schmeared with smoked (correct) butter and not over-chilled (my friend and I simultaneously agreed). Then we shared a platter of four different kinds of pig sausage/meat; quite good. Then to two fancy crepes: one with herring, warm potatoes and herring caviar; the other with egg, ham, cheese and confited onion; both again quite good. With them, of course we had two different “bio” ciders (but NB, they also have unique beers and some wine by the glass and bottle). Dessert was another crepe with gariguette strawberries and what was called Chantilly but was firm not saucy and an ice-creamy yogurt. Our bill = I have no idea. My buddy owed me a meal and settled up for us and was out the door while I was in the men’s so I never saw it. But Rubin says to count on 20-30 € per person without liquid. Should one go? Well if you’re staying in the Marais, you’ll eat at a place of which there are only two others in the world and they’re in Cancale and Tokyo. Ethnic – horrors, I don’t do ethnic in France 3.0 Le Dan Bau, 18, rue des Trois Freres in the 18th, 01.42.62.45.59, never closed. As my loyal and not-so-loyal readers know, I don’t report/review ethnic places in Paris because unless I’m here for a year plus, I’m perfectly happy sampling new and old French places. But, but, but, I decided today (actually last week) to eat tonite at a Viet Namese (yes it’s two words) place in the nabe because I was bushed after a flight across the seas, my regular 1st dinner rotisserie standby was closed and Richard Nahem of Parisist, a relatively new site that promotes itself as run by ex-New Yorkers, raved about it. What my readers don’t usually know, however, is that for Viet Namese cooking I have very high, impossibly high standards – having eaten out and had a cook-in chef in Viet Nam while protecting our nation from the dominoes of Communism. (Sidebar, two members of the Elite Sai Gon De Luxe Eating Club were the recently late and very great reporters, Johnnie (RW Jr) Apple and David Halberstam). Oh sure, I ate at Viet Namese places in Paris as a student, hey, they were cheap, good (what did I know about authentic ethnic cooking then?) and convenient. In any case, to my meal. Located on a “happening” street, just away from tourist central on Montmartre (La Famille par exemple) it’s only got 27 covers and has surprisingly terrific wall-art. The menu (carte) looks not much different from any other Viet place in Paris; but the food, the food? I started with the pork nems and couldn’t have been happier - crisp, great mint and lettuce leaves, too hot in temperature, but hey. Then I had the Pho, my sustaining breakfast in Viet Nam; bland but with perfectly undercooked (eg raw) beef (albeit a poor cut) and noodles and interesting lemon grass, etc, but wait, what’s that beside it; what my culinary guiding family (we term them Kim Il-Sung and Kim Jong-il) call “Big Red,” except that in Viet Nam there are legions of such sauces. That was it! With wine (1/2 bottle or 50 cl, it didn’t matter = 8.50 €.) My bill = 20 €. I challenge you on that. And they were turning people away. A downside – Don’t go if you’re subject to light-flashing induced seizures from light string fixtures – wow. Should one go? If one is on Montmartre, in need of ethnic food and not seizure-prone, definitely! Good chow in tourist central?; it’s possible, maybe. 2.5 Café de La Paix, place de l’Opera in the 9th, 01 40 07 36 36, open daily, with menus at 25 (1 course), 35 (2 courses) and 45 € (three), a la carte about 50 €. Who on earth would go to this tourist trap, best known as an after-opera/ballet dessert spot ? Me, after I learned that its new chef, Laurent Delarbre, was a MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) and intended to modernize the menu. I picked May 1st when openings/closings can be dicey and after weaving my way through/past dozens of sellers of lilies of the valley, plunging through Jean-Marie LePen’s manif and talking my way past the security guards (the poor restaurant was forced to hire two of them per entry door to keep the racist riffraff out,) I found myself back inside a place I haven’t been inside since the Jerome Robbins’ memorial at the Garnier almost a decade ago. To my eyes, I saw not much change in décor but in the menu yes. The good news – my eating partner and I both had pretty good mains (me a perfectly undercooked and pretty tasty duck breast with shredded stewed duck morsels covered with julienned spring veggies; she three or four generous slices of joue de boeuf with fava beans and petit pois) and she loved her dessert of strawberry cake and ice cream. But the firsts were pathetic (a tasteless, poor quality piece of marinated/singed tuna with tasteless shaved cucumber strips and a carrot soup with chicken strips); the bread was either old or store-bought; the service (you know what I mean) glacially slow and the 6 € apiece for (albeit good) coffee, an outrage. Wines began at 25 € but even so the bill was 117 €/2 and we weren’t even able to see the Front National’s street theater although the cute little mouse scampering across the floor at the end of the meal was a pretty good show. Should one go? Hummm. As always, if you’re hungry after the ballet. Just past Pollywood is Papa (read on - everything will be illuminated) 0. Chez Papa, 185, rue Marcadet in the 18th, 01.42.57.41.75, never closed (well, except for Christmas and New Year’s Day) is a chain – oh, they have places in the 14th and 15th, for which Pudlo gives different costs. In any case, I was walking either to the #1 2007 baguette place in Paris or Le Winch, the other day from Pollywood (you know Hollywood and Bollywood but we have Pathé Cinema’s studios in the vibrant 18th - known by some as Pollywood). As I was saying, I was walking and saw a sign for Chez Papa and since the demise of Chez Tony, which was guaranteed to supply you with your quota of the food pyramid of wine, fat, foie gras, gizzards and duck, we’ve missed out on that last night South-west fat feast. So I scoped the menu, talked to my cardiologue (to reassure me that my cholesterol needed a boost) and booked a table for the night before I had to speed back to the US to attend to pressing business (isn’t that what they all say when fleeing the sheriff ? ) Anyway, I entered (this is, by the way, walking distance for me) and it was terrific – bright, welcoming, no-smoking (all night) and thoroughly delightful. My favorite 18th Arr. bloggeur/food writer said that this chain was a place for young kids to get cheap meals, so I was forewarned. Lots of great Southwestern stuff; everything from v. expensive foie gras to cheap tripes. On entering, I lowered the average age to about 80. Oh oh. But soldier on, there’s no other option. I’ve cleaned out the frigo, the larder is empty, the garde mange vide. Menu huuge. Had a green salad – huuge but good greens and passable dressing (bread pathetic). Then the cassolette Papa, huuge, ate a few bites; watery, beans tasteless, duck equally so – awful, nul, gargh. How to exit gracefully; ah hah, I forgot to mention that Papa of Chez Papa, looks exactly like me, when my beard was black and I didn’t have the silly beret. So I made some sort of mention of our genetic heritage and exited. Wines: 2.60 a glass up, bottles 14.45 € up, my bill, it’s here somewhere, ah yes – 29.50 €. Can’t beat that, but……. PS, they had a questionnaire on the placemat assessing your proclivities: eg, your gender, how you found it, quality of product, etc., but no place to give your real opinion about the food - as indeed, they’ve prevented me from voting for Frederic Nihous of the Fish, Game and lovely French Culture and Tradition Party, tomorrow. The only other food-guy running, Jose Bove, who loves Roquefort but hates McDo’s, is out as well. Oh well, France says it loves food but that love doesn’t apparently translate into votes. Should one go? The waitress was the best of this decade despite her dreadful tattoos, the range of SW stuff great, the product unblemished and fresh, but I/you/your partner/your enemy can do better easily at home. Gross forfaiture on my credibility. A freebie drink, indeed two, and nibblies! HS* Drouant,16-18, place Gaillon in the 2nd, 01.42.65.15.16, open everyday for lunch and dinner and for cocktails 5:30-7:30 PM. OK, confession time. Small, indeed, tiny fish that I am, I pride myself on paying my way, not being announced/recognized and taking no freebies, since I’m convinced from the literature (references provided on request) and my prior life, that it affects one’s judgment. But, but, just this one time, I will not be tempted again, I promise you, when I got an invite addressed to me specifying that I represented the august eGullet Society (they, Drouant, must read us too) at the opening of their new « Aperospace », I fell for it. So, Phyllis/Felice and I went for a free apero in their new thing. What can I tell you ? Phyllis finked out and just had a white wine (which with great envy, I must say, was fabulous) and I had a « cocktail maison » with crushed strawberries, kiwi, rum, gin, soda and god knows what else – more fabulous. They didn’t want us to go hungry so they provided four (usually Drouant does things in threes) plates of almonds, ham (jamon, jambon – top of the line), bread and pig’s snout (well, it’s better than it sounds.) Our bill = you weren’t paying attention. These are the perks at eGullet: endless yogurt promises and the once every five year free cocktail. Thank you Mssrs Westermann and Clémot and Fat Guy, I guess! As former Attny General and campaign mastermind John Mitchell famously said to Helen Thomas: "Watch what we do, not what we say" ah, no, that’s the wrong moral, well, you know. New improved revised scale (subject to fickleness and change): 10 – The best you’ve ever had, eg Giradet in the old days. 9 – The places you went/go to because they’re destinations, eg Pere Bise 8 – The places that did their best in their prime Robuchon, Ducasse, Loiseau 7 – The places today beating the competition Ze Kitchen Galerie, Spring, Constant x3 6- The old reliables Repaire de Cartouche, Thierry Burlot, Bistro du Dome 5 – Fun neighborhood places Le Winch 4 – Places to go on cook’s night out Terminus Nord 3 – Places if you’re really stuck 2 Pieces Cuisine, Le Truc 2 – A pick-up meal Sale + Pepe 1 – Really hitting bottom le Nord-Sud 0 – Never again Auguste, The Place Ø- No kidding, you can’t drag me Iode HS* = outside classification, unfair to rate N* = a place that if one lived nearby in the neighborhood (N) would be a great place to go but gets a lower grade due to the schlep (perhaps unfairly). NN* = a place that if one lived nearby (N) in the neighborhood (N) would be a great place to go but gets a lower grade due to the horrible, immense, unpleasant schlep. NNN* = If I lived nearby it would tilt to the bigger grade.

No it doesn't but this is the pix Robert linked to and he got the price wrong, it's apparently about 13E.

Host's Note: I have moved these posts over from the Restaurants, Food & Chefs News thread because I thought the subject merited a separate thread Robert Brown, host of the Italy Forum just posted this thread about an olive oil he thinks is terrific that is available at Bon Marche.

Thanks Margaret. For Barbara, tho', there also is an Iberian place somewhere on the Western edge that wasn't bad.

Radio France is turning out to be the best source of food news; the latest that Chez Julien opposite the Ile Saint-Louis in the 4th will be reopened by Thierry Costes (Hôtel Amour, Café Etienne Marcel).

Since I live within walking distance I've been to almost every place around. I'd be interested in when Margaret went to Le Soleil last because I've been three times between 2001-2004 and had two bad expensive meals and one great one (in the middle of course.) Now with M. Vannucci splitting his time with the downtown place of the same name, who knows?I would strongly suggest you get away from the market a few blocks into the 18th where we have three good places - Le Winch, Le Truc + 2 Pieces Cuisine. All are searchable using my name.

Dare we start a subversive thread on the fact that there are no more frites like there were in the good old days, anywhere? I think not. Not me, I thot it was a copy of Leo Fourneau (aka Thierry Wolton's) book's cover, or the Departures Magazine pix of Francois Simon. I was afraid to ask about the diagnosis.

French Food Guides 2007 - Chapter 7 - the Guide Gantie Provence-Alpes-Cote d'Azur For those wishing a book specifically focused on restaurants in Provence/Cote d'Azur, the new Guide Gantie is just out, ed. Michel Laffon, 22 E - featuring 601 restos in 193 towns. But the interesting news is that this year there is a web-version that's every bit as informative, if not more so, than that of the viaMichelin site.

For those wishing a book specifically focused on restaurants in Provence/Cote d'Azur, the new Guide Gantie is just out, ed. Michel Laffon, 22 E but the interesting news is that this year there is a web-version that's every bit as informative, if not more so, than that of the viaMichelin site.

It's technically located in Cenon, which is the Pest to Bordeaux's Buda, but it's just a few minutes across the river. La Cape, 9 allee Morlette, 05.57.80.24.25 closed 1-21 August, Christmas holidays, Saturdays, Sunday and holidays. It just got a star so I'd reserve. It's #22 on the via Michelin map.

Bravo Backward and Ptit. Ironic that Rubin listed Le Petit Gavroche but not Gavroche but as Ptit said upthread, the cote de boeuf you had is impressive, as are your photos, except for your poor companion's face.