John Talbott

I'd rather make it at home but once, for reasons that escape me, I ordered it in from Allo Couscous and it was not half bad. The delivery guy was a hoot, it was elaborately delivered in multiple containers and my family has made fun of me and it ever since; ergo a good experiment.

It's on my list but he was away the last few weeks.

There is an update today by Laidback on l'Oxilis that is here.

Thanks for the update(s) Laidback; interesting, since I went to l'Oxilis in Nov 07 I've had two blah reports. Also interesting that you and I found La Table d'Eugene good but Rubin today only gave it two hearts (but then nowadays he seems to give almost everything two hearts.)

Does anyone have any interesting places to refer us to. thanks. John

The Week of September 1st, 2008 Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to Jeu de Quilles, 45, rue Boulard in the 14th, open for lunch only, Tuesday-Saturday and private dinners evenings, costing about 30 € {I found it much pricier}, serving next door butcher/neighbor Hugo Desnoyer’s meats, a terrine de lapereau, heirloom tomatoes, mackerel and plum clafoutis {for the record, it should be noted that bragging rights about “finding” it go first to Francois Simon in Le Figaro, who called it the resto of the rentrée August 12th and Caroline Mingot, who wrote it up on her Table a Decouvert blog August 21st.} Meanwhile, his colleague Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots to the top fashion Palace Elysee, 20, rue Quentin Bauchart in the 8th, 01.40.70.19.17, open 7/7, with 19 + 34 € lunch menus of tomatoes, mozzarella and basil, tuna steak, cheese-burgers and moelleux. Tuesday in Le Fooding, Marie-Odile Briet wrote about chef Yanning Samot’s (exLa Famille, Cheri Bibi + Refectoire) new restaurant, Cul de Poule, 53 rue des Martyrs in the 9th, 01.53.16.13.07, closed Sundays and Mondays, 20 for 2 courses, 27 € for 3, that uses fine products in preparing Basque charcuterie, meats, desserts and wines. Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave two places three hearts; the above mentioned Jeu de Quilles where he liked the pumpkin soup, moules and lisettes and the Italian Pizza Chic, coordinates given last week. Two hearts went to the third Relais de l’Entrecote, 101, blvd du Montparnasse in the 6th, 01.46.33.82.82, 7/7, serving the same formula (in the US sense), salade-entrecote-frites, for about 30 €. Then, he awarded one heart to La Table d’Adrien, 9 rue Volney in the 2nd, 01.42.61.00.44, closed Sundays for lunch serving “ultradition”al food such as home-made foie gras, peppered beef, and pear-chocolate tart from the 1960’s {I had a very different rating} and Le Comptoir du 11e in the former Purple space, 35, rue Faidherbe in the 11th, 01.43.71.65.30, closed Sundays costing about 30 € for vitello tomato, chicken tandoori and fresh cheeses. The Dossier this week concerned Pain au Chocolat, so you can find it here and the article on chef changes is here. Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote two articles in Le Monde - the first on Variations 18, rue des Wallons in the 13th, 01-43-31-36-04, open 7/7 and its signature scrambled eggs with bio algae, etc and the second on the new “trendy” carte at SYDR created by Alain Dutournier devoted to what he thinks are young peoples’ tastes. Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, John Talbott published “To tell or not to tell; that is the question?” Sunday’s NYT Magazine had another article on David Tanis’ Aux Chiens Lunatiques which also announced the publication of his new book, “A Platter of Figs and Other Recipes” of dinners recipes and menus for 12 persons tested in his “club or underground restaurant.” As ulterior epicure noted Food + Wine suggested features three wine bars in Paris in this month’s issue: Alfred, Cavestève + Racines {which is not really a wine bar.} Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

7.0 What a way to re-enter fall eating. La Table d'Adrien, 9, rue Volney in the 2nd, 01.42.61.00.44 has a 50 E menu and is only open for lunch, by reservation. It’s been open since April with a husband (Adrien) in the salle and wife (Judite) in the cuisine but to my knowledge, has only been covered by Alain Fusion in lesrestos.com. I started with the foie gras duo (micuit and sautéed) that was the best of any I’ve had. Then I chose the rognons of veal but the host generously suggested adding a perfectly cooked filet of beef with a red wine, shallot and chocolate sauce and some mashed potatoes; divine! Then three cheeses from the “east,” three desserts (two of which were old recipes), a coffee and Bas Armagnac (this in addition to an aperitif of white wine, a half-bottle of Bordeaux and a glass of port with the cheese. The bill, which was most generously absorbed by the house is unknown (I realize this poses an ethical problem for me and an evaluation problem for you, gentle reader, since I often rail against critics on the take) but…..I guess you'll just have to assume that my judgment may have been influenced. However, in any case, it was sure a hellofa meal. NB M. Adrien says it's a "club" so one may not get a reservation. 6.5. A second winner. Le Boudoir, 25, rue du Colisee in the 8th, 01.43.59.25.29, closed Sundays, with a daily special at 16, 3 dailies at 27 but a la carte = 50-60 E, is the second winner of the of the rentrée. It's labeled on the awning (above) as a brasserie but it's as much like those creaky old Alsatian dumps as her Point Bar resembled a dingy old bar. I entered with prejudice, as I had always eaten well at her Point Bar in the Marche St Honoré and I expected the same here and was not disappointed (except by the prices.) The terribly welcoming waitfolk offered me a choice of two floors, many rooms and at least 5 styles of furniture/furnishings - choices, choices, choices. I choose the innermost as perhaps being the quietest. The menu looks relatively simple and there are also three chalkboard specials (that this day didn't appeal). I skipped the fresh girolle starter since I realized I hankered for the (grosse) cut of veal with sauteed girolles. I was never asked how I wanted it cooked, but lucky guy that I was, it was perfectly under-cooked and smothered, I mean smothered, with girolles, which needed just a tiny bit of salt crystal to achieve the region of the heavenly. And the thick crusted bread was perfect for both munching on and sopping up the thin but tasty brown sauce. Then I had a "classic Baba" with endless St Etienne rum and a nice whipped cream sauce that was equally good. My wine was a Chateaumeillant that tasted of the Gamay of Cher but not over-poweringly so (wines were 20 and up a bottle, with glasses from 5 E). After coffee (ristretto, how about that?), no bottled water nor as I said, a starter, one could exit for less than 50, but with wine and any of the above, one could get into serious numbers. If I were a Michelin Man, I would rank their bathroom right up there with Goumard's - 5*'s. Go back? For sure, but for the next week, maybe I should quit while I'm ahead. 8.0 (for country food) - 5.5 (for city food.) Whoa, not wow, but maybe both. La Cantine du Troquet, 101, rue de l'Ouest in the 14th, no telephone/no reservations, closed Sunday nights and Mondays, a la carte from 30-40, is Christian Etchebest 3rd venture after Le Troquet and Grand Pan and is simply great. I went on a Sunday and arrived about 12:15 and there were already 8 persons (there are 29 places set and 2 bar stools). As mentioned elsewhere, and obviously intentional, there is a big screen TV turned to l'Equipe (with the sound off) and the walls are lined with photos of his compatriots - Camdeborde, Jego, Faucher, Bluy and Duboué with their restaurants. There is one giant chalkboard (duplicated outside) with 12 starters, 8 mains and 10 desserts; wines are on another and start at 14 E a liter. So you know for the start he's not there to soak you. As I was ordering, himself came on a motorcycle and joined his family and friends at a big table, clearly working on this or next week's menu, not cooking. He greeted everyone as if he knew them; maybe he does and he recalled my half-dozen visits but it was a nice touch anyway. I had the pigs' ears that were wonderfully crisp and toasty with nicely-dressed greens and some bread that was quite good. Then the poitrine de porc that was even more crispy and crunchy, topped with a fluffy sauce and accompanied by huge portions of thick-cut fries and a green salad. I cannot tell you how good that pork was, incredible! For dessert, on a country-roll, I had the tart of the day, with apricots and between the (you've got it) crispy crust, custardy filling and fresh apricots, it was the perfect end to an honest meal. With coffee, made correctly serré, a half-bottle of wine and tap water, the bill was 37 Euros. As for my score, if you take the product, care in preparation, cooking and classic presentation, it's an 8.0, but if you consider that because it ain't got flowers and frou-frou table settings, has a sports-TV and provides just simple, plain-old, traditional and not particularly-inventive cooking, it would only get a 5.5. Go back? In three weeks to be exact. 8.0 (if you're a normal person) - 6.0 (if you're exigent) What are they putting in the water up here? Le Jeu de Quilles, 45, rue Boulard in the 14th, 01.53.90.76.22, open for lunch only Tuesday-Saturday and dinner Wednesday and Friday if you're 12 or so and book in advance. This was my second meal in three days in this part of the 14th and both of them have been quite special, quite good and quite interesting places. Both the Cantine de Troquet and Jeu de Quilles are seemingly uncomplicated and simple but serve up astonishingly good chow, Jeu de Quilles in part because it's right next to Desnoyer the famed butcher. The chef came through Fines Gueules and has the same respect for fine products they do. We started with glasses of white wine which with the offered charcuterie were perfect. Then we shared supposedly small platters of cheese and charcuterie that typified the approach to good product, simply served. Both were ample, indeed more than that. The chalkboard has only 6 other items, but we both chose the veal which with sliced veggies and fries were all again (sorry) very good product. Our dessert was a shared clafoutis of mirabelles and again was quite good. Our bill with a bottle of Chiroubles and two Illy's (extra points) was 54.40 Euros per person. Go? Fast! They only have 17 covers so call in advance; Simon called it the resto for the rentrée A Nous Paris lauded it today. 5.9 A diamond in the rough in the 9th (yet again). Cul de Poule, 53 rue des Martyrs in the 9th, 01.53.16.13.07, closed Sundays and Mondays, 20 for 2 courses, 27 € for 3, where the maestro Yanning Samot, (of La Famille, Cheri Bibi + Refectoire) was reported by Le Fooding's Marie-Odile Briet to use fine products in preparing Basque charcuterie, meats, desserts and wines. I went with my charming cohost on the eGullet France Forum and we had a great meal. You look at the place and it's a dump; really a dump; the sign for the former Triperie is still there; it's got plastic chairs outside and school classroom chairs inside and your heart sinks. And I had the misfortune to invite this woman who is elegant and refined and provides me with magazines and newspapers when I'm out of town to this place; for shame John! "Minute Papillon," I say, "Le Fooding liked it; it's gotta have something," despite my rollercoaster experiences at their other places. While waiting I order a bottle of Chat. Delanoye and the wine list; hummm, not bad. Having read the article in today's IHT on Cotes du Rhone, their one at 19 E could test their mettle. (PS It was terrific.) She enters, with that laced blouse - I'm dazzled, I invite her to sit; she peers around - "kind of real," she says, or something equivalent. We inspect the carte, a lot of cut meats first, interesting meat and fish next - onward! She had the Basque charcuterie, courtesy of Rémi, which both of us loved and which, after several of a similar sort I'd had in the past two weeks, I judged rather the best. I had the head cheese which was just fine with a salad of not your usual greens from Annie Bertin I gather. Then she had the cote de cochon fermier (which I've also had several of this rentree) from M. Aimé of Dax, which was huge and super and I had the white seiche with the spiciest darn pesto I've ever had, perfect! Both of us ordered and were served the veggie mix which I sort of dismissed but she tucked into. It had carrots, turnips, cabbage, beets, eggplant and who knows what else, all from Passard and all cooked separately so some were al dente and others mushie, but it had a twang too, and quite frankly between you and moi dear reader - it was the best thing there. Oh yes, both of us were also served tiny slices of veggies: my cucumber and tomato were outasight. After that, what does one do, slink out? No way. She ordered 6 strawberries with creme fraiche and I some Beaufort cheese - heaven on earth! So dear readers; what was the bill (oh, yah, we had to have another glassof with the cheese)? 76 Euros? you don't believe me? Go? Not if you need tablecloths, quiet, froufrou service, towels in the loo or shitty food at exhorbitant prices. But otherwise, please do - but expect it to be no more than it is. 5.5 An unexpected surprise in the 8th of all places. A La Chataigne, 22, rue Miromesnil in the 8th, 01.40.07.90.86, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, running one a la carte about 35-45 E got two hearts in Figaroscope just before its summer break but I hadn't forgotten it. I went there with a food writer whose reviews I've been admiring for a while and I think he was surprisedly pleased/pleasantly surprised as well. I entered to find him seated at the very best front table by the front window rather than in the back of this long narrow railway car type restaurant; sign on table Reserved: Talbot; cool. It turns out by my reserving only a few hours before I'd secured the best in the house (lesson to drop-inners). However right off the bat, the sound was a problem, rather should I say, the noise, from workmen spread out all down both sides of the street working madly with jackhammers, generators and the like. But once we got the door closed, things calmed down. We both wanted to order the same things, but gentleman that he was, he chose alternatives and we shared a bit. I started with the terrine of Sansonnet, a tiny Corsican bird I hope is not headed for extinction, like the ortolan, since it was so good. He meanwhile had Corsican ham and melon that was super product from Zevaco. My main was a casserole of tripettes of veal a la Corse (tomatoes, onions and potatoes) that was a pleasure and he had canneloni with broccio, tomatoes and basil leaves, equally nice. We ended with a tarte of chestnuts (another house specialty) and he a soup of Corsican berries and fruits. He had ordered a bottle of really fine Corsican wine and with three dishes each and coffee, all of which he generously treated me too, the bill he picked up could have come under 100 E a couple if we'd had a less fine wine. (There were wines by the glass and carafe (15 E). Go? Indeed, after the demise of the Casa Corse, I'd find this a most acceptable substitute. 5.0 – A Wow in the 18th, Wow! La Table d'Eugene, 18, rue Eugene Sue (time out for a literature lesson: Eugene Sue (1804-1857) wrote "The Mysteries of Paris" described in chestofbooks as "the greatest work ever written") in the 18th, 01.42.55.61.64, menu at 30 Euros. It has been open only a month and my sherpa pointed out that the big boys hadn't published reviews yet but would surely do so shortly. I had gone by on my limpies a few days ago and been struck by the quirkiness of the menu: like the late, un-great and un-lamented l'Angl'Opera, which described dishes backwards, this one has one word descriptors followed by the main ingredients in most cases; thus tomate = gazpacho, risotto = cheese and mushrooms, absinthe = ice cream, etc. As an amuse gueule there were sausagy things and olives that were all very tasty; the bread was incredibly good and from the same bakery I'd given up on 7 years ago when a nearer bio one opened (a big mistake). For firsts we split the risotto with cheese and mushrooms that was heavenly and shrimp with Moroccan spices and summer veggies that were divine; whoops, with heavenly and divine, I've run out of over-the-earth adjectives. Then we had a magret de canard that was superlunary and a veal chop that was toasty on the outside, not raw enough of the inside but hey, still ethereal, with young spinach shoots and charlotte potatoes with a spicy Sabrosada sauce on top. Then we had the baba (made with exotic spice(s)) with rum that was supernal and an ice made with genuine absinthe that was celestial. With two menus, two coffees, one bottle of fantastic wine but no bottled water, the bill should have been 88 Euros, but the devil led us astray with some tots of extra rum and absinthe a l'ancien. Go back? Already planned: October 3rd to be exact. You may wonder why I gave it only a 5? That's to discourage nosy snoops from other areas of town from ruining it; this is my place, stay downtown where you belong. 5.0 And yet more. l'Ardoise Gourmande, 12, rue de Belzunce in the 11th, 01.48.78.40.03, closed Saturday lunch and Sunday night and Sunday noon is brunch, menus with two dishes and wine or water are 22 E, a la carte runs 25-50 E. I realized the opening of l'Ardoise Gourmande means the end of my visits and recommendation of the Terminus Nord to others alighting from the Eurostar; this place is going to replace it and maybe Chez Michel (except in game season) and Chez Casimir as well. It's a really slick looking place just opposite Thierry Breton's joint and has an abundance of food on the printed and chalkboard menus. There is a "menu" (prix fixe) on the left of the carte, another on the right and a lot of a la carte daily specials on the chalkboard, but rather than try to explain it all, like Ze Kitchen Galerie, everything will fall into place when addition time comes. I liked what I saw on the 22 E "menu" but was enraptured by the sautéed scallops and pleurottes on the a la carte chalkboard and had them (25 E). And they were simply the best of both, perfectly prepared and served. The wine of the month was a 16 E Morgan which can be had a la ficelle (pay per sip), which I did and loved; but they also had glasses, 1/4'ths, carafes and bottles of wine too. My dessert was the moelleux of chocolate with vanilla ice cream that was not as runny as my daughter makes it but was pretty good; however a (strange) diseased mint leaf was on top. The bread was OK but the coffee was horrible. To be fair it's only been open for 17 days and they're still working the kinks out (as an example, my bread was not cleared after the main course – no big deal, but….). My bill was 42.50 E with 1/2 wine, no bottled water but just two items from the chalkboard. Go? As Pudlo used to say "Follow this place." 5.0 Pretty much the same – still pricey after all these years. La Grange Bateliere, 6, rue de la Grange Bateliere in the 9th, 01.47.70.85.15, has since June 12th been in the hands of Brice Goutret and Celine Canal who used to run the Port Alma on the Ave de New York in the 16th, which I thought was OK but pricey. I thought maybe this, being a grubbier area with all those grubby Drouot types looking for bargains, the prices would come down and one would have more choices than under its former management. No so. On entering it was all suits and ties and hardly any wine consumed; Drouot was closed and these were either the high-end antique types or pure business folk. The tapenade amuse bouche and bread to spread it on was super. Despite the fanciness of the clientele, the chalkboard was pretty simple, a few starters, mains and desserts and one special. I had the special, a magret de canard perfectly rosé with wonderful sautéed mushrooms and potatoes beneath my pay grade to assess. It was tender and very tasty and among the best ever. Before that I had superb bread rubbed with tomato and olive oil (recall how the barman at the old Gaya (RG) used to do it with garlic and gusto - well just as good) along with superb Jamon and a nice green salad. I had no dessert (few folks did until the end) but had a good Florio coffee serré; which with 2 glasses of their house Bordeaux (7 E a pop) results in a 53.50 E bill. Go? Despite the price-quality problem, it's pretty good if you're going to be in the Drouot area and have reserved (the place was packed and they were turning tables). 2.0 Well, I guess all good things come to an end after all. Pasco, 74, blvd de la Tour Maubourg in the 7th, 01.44.18.33.26, open 7/7, formula for 17, two dishes 21 and three for 26 Euros, was in a list of places given by Jean Claude Ribaut in Le Monde that had sidewalk seating (cleverly called the terrace) and were open in summer (and on weekends.) Somehow I got the idea it had a new chef and indeed the guy cooking didn't look like the guys named on the menu and business card, but..... The menu looks like that of a million other places but I soldiered on, starting with a half-warm/half-chilly block of eggplant and goat cheese with tangy pistou sauce - OK. The bread, while looking good and crusty was infra-dig. Then I had some daurade that had a 5* crusty skin but the fish itself and fresh vapored veggies were 1-2* at best. My dessert was the highlight of the meal; a canelé with prune and armagnac ice cream - both superb. I finished with a so-so coffee. The bill with the menu, 1/2 wine, no water and coffee was 41.50 Euros. Go? For some crisp fish skin, a canelé and ice cream? 1.0 A deception in both the French and English senses of the word. Chez Fred, 190bis, Blvd Pereire in the 17th, 01.45.74.20.48, closed Sundays with a 30 E menu and a la carte 35-50 E is a place I put on my rentrée list as a holdover from June when Figaroscope had listed it. Foolishly, I didn't note that it was simply reopening after a devastating fire and had made no major changes. Oh well. However, in its favor, it is touted as a typical Lyonnais bouchon (see pix above) and I was in the mood for some good Lyonnaise chow. Plus, I had as my eating partner one of my favorite critics/chefs/TV stars and knew we'd have fun, which we did. She started with a glass of white wine that she was pleasantly surprised by and I had the menu's museau of beef (accompanied by a pot of wine from Lyon) that was the best I've ever had. At this point I thought we were in for a treat. Fred made a come-back I thought. Unfortunately both mains were plain; she had the gigot (blah) special (always and only served on Mondays) with good sautéed potatoes though and a sliced ratatouille that looked somewhat like René's in the movie of the same name and I had the Lyonnais sausage that Rubin liked but I thought was inferior product with tasteless white, boiled and diced potatoes; the mustard was good though. My dessert was not a slice of bitter chocolate with creme anglaise that I anticipated but yet another over-cooked moelleux with a pallid white sauce and she had a blancmange (will some 70 yo British Monty Python fan explain that running gag to me some day?) with creme fraiche that she despised. Our coffees were adequate and the bread industrial. Our bill was 46.50 E each. Go? Want Lyonnais food? The TGV will get you there almost as quickly as the PC 3 bus. -0.5 No bloody bunk for us. l'Escapade, 36, blvd des Batignolles in the 17th, 01.45.22.51.77, closed Sundays, forced menu at 19, a la carte 25-45 E turned out to be a chance to test the bottom of my scale. Unfortunately, while I chose it in good faith as a place Philippe Toinard made sound interesting in late June in A Nous Paris, and gave it 3/5 dots, I dragged my poor, wonderful neighbor and made her suffer through it too. It looks like it's been here forever, but has a fascinating clock over the kitchen pass-thru window (see above) whose pendulum behind the clock face is visible through a hole above 6 o'clock. That, the bread and the first course of a warm artichoke heart and cold artichoke leaves with lemon olive oil and fleurs de sel were about it for the meal. She had a huge but miserable andouillette (AAAAA of course, as if that mattered) with an OK spicy mustard sauce apart and I had a miserable piece of cod whose skin was nice and crisp, but..... We finished with crepes that were supposed to come with a a salted butter caramel sauce but it looked like it came from a chocolate can and tasted like it was cooked in the butter or oil they'd done meat in recently. We did have coffee I'm embarrassed to say and our bill with one wine was 77 E. Go? For the worst price-quality meal of the year? Are you're nutz? PS As a reminder, my scale is as follows (subject to fickleness and change): 10 - Giradet in the old days. 9 - Ducasse, Bocuse, Loiseau in their prime 8 - Ze Kitchen Galerie now 7- Bistro Cote Mer at its flowering best and Clocher Pereire now 6 - Repaire de Cartouche 5 - Le Cafe qui Parle 4 - 2 Pièces Cuisine, a neighborhood place 3 - Le Truc, ditto 2 - Sale + Pepe, double ditto 1 - le Nord-Sud, triple ditto 0 - Auguste, The Place Ø- Iode

I have indeed been but it was a long time ago. I liked it. It fell off my list not because of any fault but just there's too much else happening.

No, although I've been by it many times and like what I see; I try to explore the unexplored, probably to my detriment. As for I'd be curious where, since I live there and Felice and I did a tasting last year and we're not blown away by anything - defined as we've not gone back anywhere, although I had great bread the other day at La Table d'Eugene from Au Pain D'Antan at the five corners - 2, Eugene Sue (I'll be posting my report on October's eats tmrw.)

Saturday-Sunday's IHT had an advertising supplement on the Biennale des Antiquares that had an article by Heidi Ellison on guest chefs who will be cooking there on the following dates: Sept 11 - Pierre Mallet + Pierre Carrier Sept 12 - Patrick Berton Sept 13 - Stephane Raimbault Sept 14 - Christophe Bacquie Sept 15 - Patrick Henriroux Sept 16 - Helene Darroze Sept 17 - Jean-Michel Lorain Sept 18 - Jacques Chibois Sept 19 - Jean-Andre Charial Sept 20+21 - Michel Roth.

There is an NYT article today by Gisela Williams on the "New German Cuisine" that talks about where it can be found in Munich.

Another NYT article today by Gisela Williams on the "New German Cuisine" in Munich says that it can be found at: Schubecks in der Sudtiroler Stuben, Das Wirsthaus zum Herrmannsdorfer Schweinsbrau + Broeding as well as these "beer hall-style restaurants" Der Pschorr, Weisses Brauhaus, Zum Durnbrau + Spatenhaus an der Oper.

An observation and generalization about With the exception of big brigaded, if there is such a word, hotel restos, fast-food places and brasseries, a quick look through the Digest shows that most places seating 20-40 covers are not open 7/7 and those places that are, are pretty crummy. Quality control is easier to maintain, albeit at different levels of the game, at Le Cinq, Julien + McDo's than at other joints. It's a rare place that has two coequally talented chefs - I can only think of one extant here and even rarer to find a team that can keep it up over 14 services. That's why I keep a sticky on my "To Eat At" list that has columns - open on Saturday, Sunday and Monday.

I went through the Digest and while Silk & Spice has been written about by everyone (Galesne, Pudlo, Figaroscope) there's nothing startling and it sounds more pan-Asian or pan-South East Asian than Thai.Phyllis advice sounds better.

I went by the Table d'Anvers today and it's very much under renovation; does that mean another change of chefs/management/style. I ndon't know.

It's not Le Baan Rai is it; too far away and in the 1st.

Is it Issy, really? I ask because there were rumours about a new Faucher "table d'hôtes" in Châtillon, and he already has the Symples de l'Os à Moëlle in Issy. ← Well that's what it says although I read the same about Chatillon. Maybe Rubin et al have it wrong. Ironic that you ask because I just threw out (recycled) the article this AM.

Today in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin has another article on the "Waltz of the chefs," that includes some of the info above but in addition says that: Benoit will be chef'd by Alain Souliac from Ducasse's Basque auberge La Paiva is being transformed from a night-club to a resto by Jacques Garcia Miyou will be a high class sandwich shop under Guy Martin's hand Velvet 45 will open October 1st under chef Claude Colliot, exl'Orenoc Chacha will be a 1930's "speakeasy" Chardenoux, the beautiful 1900 bistrot, will by the end of September be run by Cyril Lignac (XV Attitude) Aux Zingots will pass from the control of Gilles Benard to the "pros" of Paris nightlife who run Baron, Hotel Amour.... Bilboquert comes under the Costes' control Guillaume Delage, exGaya will open his own bistro in the 15th Barbezingue will open in Issy les Moulineaux under the supervision of Thierry Faucher (l'Os a Moelle.)

Today, Colette Monsat et al in Figaroscope, rated the pain au chocolat at 25 places, awarding the following: 1. Julien 2. Secco 3. Ble Sucre Of interest were: 5. Pierre Herme 6. Dalloyau 7. Kayser (Monge) 8. Fauchon 14. Lenotre 18. Gerard Mulot 18. Angelina 21. Laduree 21. Paul 23. A. Poilane

I don't know what's correct about their familial relationship/entanglements, especially after reading the Wikipedia entry, but in today's Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin gave two hearts to what he called (in addition to the Porte Maillot and St Germain ones), the third Relais de l’Entrecote, 101, blvd du Montparnasse in the 6th, 01.46.33.82.82, 7/7, serving the same formula (in the US sense), salade-entrecote-frites, with its "famous sauce" for about 30 €.

Welcome back Host's suggestion I think from past experience and for ease of searching, it would be good to break the question up by area or town, that is the Dordogne the Perigord the Lot La Rochelle Brive-le-Gaillard Guerande For some there are existing topics (the Dordogne) but for others (the Lot) it would be great to have a number of suggestions on new topics. And I really appreciate your offer on feedback; that's always so valuable for our members.

The Week of August 25th, 2008 Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots to Le Boudoir d’Alice Bardet, 25, rue du Colisee in the 8th, 01.43.59.25.29, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, formulas at 21 and 27, a la carte 38-76 €, which he says you’ll adore if you liked the Point Bar and Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to the Italian Pizza Chic, in the 6th. Tuesday, Sylvie Augereau of Le Fooding favorably reviewed La Perle Noire in Candes St Martin. Tuesday, Le Point declared that Le Soleil + Le Restaurant were in good shape Le Bistro du 17e was worth following but Kok Ping was in trouble. Wednesday-Thursday Jean Claude Ribaut had two articles in Le Monde one (pay per view) about selling off a restaurants’ furnishings; the other on Venice. In Saturday’s Figaro Francois Simon wrote a “Croque Notes” piece about the book written by Gauthier Pajona, an Air France cabin chief and his favorite restaurants, among which is l’Auberge Pyrenees Cevennes in the 11th. Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about Le Gaigne, Pierre Herme + Palais Elysee and John Talbott published his fourth episode about “Bistro Brasserie Resto Café Bar: What’s in a Name?” Sunday, Aurelie Chaigneau had an article in JDD about six restos where you can prolong your summer – Racines, Da Rosa, l’hotel Amour, Les Cocottes, Le Garde Robe + J’Go. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Where is Julien (it's not in my restaurant books)? Thanks. Robyn ← That's surprising because it's been there forever; it's in the 10th, 16, rue Faubourg St Denis; it's part of the Flo empire and not to be confused with the bakery in the 1st or Chez Julien in the 4th recently reopened by the Costes family. I disliked the food in the brasserie the last time I visited more than my charming co-host (despite the setting) but disliked Chez even more. Both reviews can be obtained by a Search.

Host's Note I'd like to limit this to France so it can remain in the France Forum, because I think we can dig deep into these kitchens we know well and it'll continue to be a fruitful topic about not only where to train but where to eat (see below). I think Robert's point argues for kitchens where one either sees or knows the chef is there (one actually sees Ledeuil at Ze and Dominique Bouchet at db) versus bigger or huge ones where the only time you're certain the chef is there is the end of the meal (excepting Passard), for example Les Ambassadeurs.A question I'd have for Robert and other chefs is whether this translates into a difference in the eating experience; does it help to have the chef present or hinder as you point out in some cases, so long as the productions are consistent?

If there's anytime seafood, esp shellfish, are in abundance, it's in winter but I've always found bulots in my fish shop.Sure, all brasseries/etc that have an outside shucker (whom my insider source tells me are invariably Magrebian) have the same shellfish inside; you can easily look them over first; because some places, eg l'Huitrier have excellent products but not a comprehensive range.