John Talbott

The Week of July 7th, 2008 In Monday's Le Fooding Chloé Aeberhardt wrote up Les Banquettes, 3, rue de Prague in the 12th, 01 43 47 39 47, closed Saturday lunch, Sundays nights and Mondays, lunch menu 14 € with ¼ of wine, evening 24 two courses, 30 for three, serving avocado soup, confit de canard and aligot (Tuesday evenings) in a kitchy setting. Tuesday-Wednesday, in ANP, Philippe Toinard wrote of the Italian Di Vino in the 16th while Jerome Berger had a review of la Cantine du Troquet, 101, rue de l'Ouest in the 14th, no phone, no rez’s, closed Sunday nights and Mondays, for 25 € getting one neo-bistro food such as cold pea soup with mint, pork belly, big fries and rice pudding or fruits. Wednesday, in Paris Update, Richard Hesse reviewed Itineraires, saying that it was “a real privilege to enter Sylvain Sendra's very personal garden of delights.” Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribault in Le Monde dwelt with more terraces which I posted on that topic. In Saturday/Sunday’s Figaro Francois Simon wrote a “Croque Notes” (currently available only in pdf) about the monument Le Procope and its existence since 1686 where the tourists expect to see Voltaire or Wilde and where he ate some tasteless langoustines, tete de veau and a mille-feuille with ½ a bottle of wine and 4 coffees among commercially humorful waitfolk for 123 Euros. Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, John Talbott had a piece on “What’s New in Paris.” In the July-August Paris Notes, “Paris Bites,” Rosa Jackson listed her favorite outdoor restaurants as: Mini-Palais Le Moulin de la Galette Le Café de l’Homme Da Rosa Rose Bakery Le Fumoir Blé Sucré La Table du Lancaster In the June-July bmibaby member Adrian Moore lists his current favorites under 40 € as: Afaria, La Bulle, L’Arôme, Beurre Noisette, La Cave Gourmande & Spring. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Alexandra Michot and Francois Simon, in Saturday/Sunday’s Le Figaro, now only in pdf, noted some chef moves: David Zuddas leaving l’Auberge de la Charme in Prenois replaced by Nicolas Isnard of the Chateau de Curzay but retaining and starting other ventures; Nicolas Le Bec, chef of the 2-star eponymous resto in Lyon, inaugurates l’Espace Le Bec a lounge bar and other projects including taking over l’Opéra Garnier in 2010; Hélène Darroze returning from having opened a gastronomic restaurant, brasserie, grill, bar, room-service and banquets at the Connaught in London, closes her Boudoir on the rue d’Assas, because business fell off; Christophe Dufau, one-star leaves Tourrettes-sur-Loup to reopen Bacchanales in Vence July 14th; and Lucette Rousseau, called Lulu, leaves her famous place l’Assiette on the rue du Chateau in Paris, where she invented the bistrot gourmand style in 1982 passing the baton in September to David Rathgeber who served under the mast of Alain Ducasse for 14 years.

By the same owners as Mezze is Café Latino, on the campus of Mass MoCA. ← Any newer news on either Mezze or the Cafe Latino or other places for that matter in Williamstown? Thanks ← Same query one year later, plus anything new/interesting in Williamstown/N. Adams, etc?

I'd like to revive this topic to see what folks would recommend around Boothbay Harbor & Boothbay etc themselves. Thanks, John

First off, thanks for this and the other great Portland topic. From all, I put together a list including: The Front Room, Hugo's, Duckfat, Street & Co, 555 + Cinque Terre.I have a remarkably similar question to MMerrill's but with some added parameters: We will be coming in August for a Saturday sit-down lunch with wine and good grub, setting and location immaterial (in Paris those are oxymoronic). While we arrive close to noon, we do not need to leave Portland quickly. We will be between lots of French food at the source and lots of clams, lobstah and beer at their source (for a week), thus we need neither emphasized. And we will be three (haruumpf) mature adults who haven't talked in person since one of our spouses died, thus we'd like a place quiet enough to talk. A big order but we appreciate and count on the kindness of strangers and I'd be delighted to reciprocate anytime anyone visits Paris. Thanks. ← Same time, same question, the next year. SATURDAY LUNCH AUGUST I need a quiet, sitdown table-cloth place for 3 geezers - (Walter's was fine last year, easily repeated if it's still open Saturday lunch). Then anything with good innovative food for 2 geezers (again Fat Duck was terrific as well, so certainly could repeat). I've read this topic and if Evangeline were open then, I'd certainly try it, but.... All recommendations welcomed. Thanks in advance, John

Les Ombres - Felice we should have taken your advice, but as no one had had a direct experience I thought it was worth giving it a shot. More fool us...! ← Actually I had, see above

I should let her answer since she's a very active member but there are similarities such as listing restaurants and places to shop and recipes but it's night from day in style and breadth. Without putting Ms Wells' book down, and I've been using it since 1984, Clotilde's is very contemporary, covering a whole range of places and had (in Colette's estimation) terrifically helpful practical information, like cross streets and cultural information (dining hours) that come easier to a French-born person. Since Ms. Wells is devoting her energies these days to Provence, I think Clotilde's book will become the new "carry with you when wandering Paris" book (it's paperback book, fit in pocket or purse, sized).Take a look at it at the bookstore where she did the signing, I think you'll see the difference.

For those planning ahead, this year's will be Oct 29-Nov 2 according to Web Radio du Gout. There'll be 140 chocolate makers at the Porte de Versailles.

According to Web Radio du Gout the newest fad is Le Slunch a most non-Anglo-Saxon meal invented by a journalist at the French Elle. One gathers ones friends at the end of Sunday and eats mets without plates between 5 and 10 PM. Examples are: fruits, tartlettes, cold soups, ham, haddock rillettes, dips, salads and grilled pumpkin as well as fruit juices, teas and unusual wines of all colors. The book is “Slunch" by Pascale Weeks (Alias Scally), Editions First.

Since TracyinParis has started the annual quest for places open in August, I thought I'd pop this topic up a bit. As Phyllis pointed out upthread there's also a compendium of existing topics on the subject.

La Grande Cascade 01 45 27 33 51 http://www.lagrandecascade.fr

For the geographically challenged, it's also available (for a limited time as well) at Alléosse.Edited by John Talbott for spelling.

I couldn't agree with this more. A friend of mine took me there last week and I think it's been my best meal since I moved to Baltimore. ← Colette and I went last night after being told by a keen observer that the waits were interminable, but there was hustle in the waitstaff and kitchen plus cross-covering stations and it was an alright experience. Inside is roaring loud but outside was calm and cool. We only had the organic green salad with an interesting dressing and soft-shell crabs with a scampi sauce (that didn't work for me) and with a bottle of wine and no dessert or coffee the bill before tip was $85.86.

Well, Margaret and Colette agree on that.This place mystifies me. Let's see what PhilD gets Saturday.

More from Jean Claude Ribaut in Le Monde: L'Absinthe. La Butte Chaillot. Caves Pétrissans. Au Moulin de la Galette. La Cour Jardin. Laurent. La Grande Cascade. Le Pré Catelan. Lasserre. Les Ombres. Pasco. Mavrommatis. Le Père Lapin. Le Coq de la Maison Blanche. Lao Tseu. Chez Vong.

And, in the July-August Paris Notes, “Paris Bites,” Rosa Jackson listed her favorite outdoor restaurants as the: Mini-Palais Moulin de la Galette Café de l’Homme Da Rosa Rose Bakery Fumoir Blé Sucré Table du Lancaster.

Since this is the closest we have to a "hidden garden" resto topic, I'll add a few places in the article in the NYT on the "Hidden Gardens of Paris" June 29th by Elaine Sciolino: La Maison de l’Amérique Latine Les Jardins de Bagatelle Le Chalet des Îles Le Saut du Loup La Muscade Café Lenôtre.

Ah, I recall a bass on the grill with rosemary inside that was, along with the view, the best ever.

I couldn't agree with this more. A friend of mine took me there last week and I think it's been my best meal since I moved to Baltimore. ← Welcome Ochowie; while I devote most of my time to the France Forum, I check in here now and again and am delighted that we have a newcomer to both this Forum and the Society who can add much-needed info. Please let us know what you discover as you wend your way through new places. John

The Week of June 30th, 2008 In Monday's Le Fooding Frédérick-E. Grasser-Hermé wrote up Hi Beach in Nice. Tuesday-Wednesday, in ANP, Philippe Toinard wrote of the Italian-WorldFood place La Briciola while Jerome Berger had a review of l’Arome which opened December 2006. In the side-bar, they reported on the opening of Joel Robuchon’s Cave, two steps from l’Atelier and the reopening of Le Telegraphe. Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin’s “C’est nouveau” reviewed the Palace Elysee 20, rue Quentin Bauchart in the 8th, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, a la carte 70 € for asparagus, swordfish with wasabi, beef filet, black cod, parfait and the Cantine du Troquet coordinates given before, no telephone, no reservations running one 30-40 € for celery remoulade, pea soup, poitrine of pork and cafoutis. He also gave one star to Le Petit Cler, 27, rue Cler in the 7th, 01.45.50.17.50, "piloted" by the Fontaine de Mars team featuring oeufs mayo, tartine of St Marcellinand a faux filet for 20-30 € and B4, 6, square Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie in the 4th, 01 42 72 16 19, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, where the lunch menu is 12 and a la carte 38 € for veggies, big shrimp and rumpsteak. Finally he gave a busted heart to La Terrasse - Le First in the Hotel Westin, 3, rue Castiglione in the 1st, 01.44.77.11.11, open 7/7 running one 50 € for white asparagus, beef tartare or roast beef. Wednesday as well, the Figaroscope “Dossier” dealt with places near water: Inside the walls Chalet des Iles Le Grand Bleu Point Ephemere Le Chalet des iles Daumesnil West coast River Cafe La Guinguette de Neuilly Les Pieds dans l'eau Le Petit Poucet O Restaurant Quai Ouest Terraces around la Villette 25 Est Rendez-vous des Quais MK2 Quai de Loire O'Kay la Criee East Coast Chez Gegene La Guinguette du Martin Pecheur And, Francois Simon’s “Hache Menu” dealt with La Plage where he had a forgettable dinner for 129 €. In Saturday’s Figaro Francois Simon wrote a “Croque Notes” about the existing place La Grille and their service of their famous tourbot with white butter sauce. Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, John Talbott had one on “Is this place still in business July’s WHERE had several restaurants reviewed by Alexander Lobrano - La Veranda in Versailles and he found the cooking “witty, precise and generally delicious” [which conforms to my view not that of the French food mob] and several older ones: the Congres Auteil that he calls “an exceptionally well-run brasserie,” Laurent, Medhi + Dessirier. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Sorry to hear this, but because I've had such inconsistent experiences, it's long since dropped off my radar screen.

Host's Note: I would like to redirect this back to the topic title "The future generation of French stars". A discussion of whether 32 or 42 or 50 Euros constitutes a lot or a little so depends on where you live, what your income/budget is, your expectations, etc., that I think it is almost an unanswerable query. Thanks

There is quite a lot on this topic and another one if you use the Find function you'll find something I'm sure.

For the information of those living/visiting around the Anvers Metro, we stumbled across a nice looking temporary market around the Place d'Anvers. It's open Friday all day, thus in the afternoon which is good to know. We'll assess the quality of the tomatoes tonight.

Since Colette and I have been coming to Spring (almost two years now) I keep being impressed with Daniel Rose's relaxed but innovative cooking. Today, four of us went for the 35 E lunch and it was as good as ever. He started us off with wonderful olives and then served up sautéed squash blossoms stuffed with a daurade royale that was a cousin of quenelles, atop chopped red radishes and bathed in a double chicken broth. Then tender duck breast with fava beans, tomato and 1/2 an artichoke heart; delicious. Finally a double dessert; cherries with a whipped cream and crumble/granola type topping and raspberries with a fluffy buttermilk/melon sauce; most inventive both. Our bill with two wines, four coffees and no bottled water was 190 E, fully paid for.