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Everything posted by John Talbott
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Both. I disagree and I can't figure it out. I think she got and perhaps, bought, if you believe The Food Business on the subject, a lot of positive press coverage, which largely was based on her family and past not the present. I gave her three tries, upstairs and down, and someday one of the four of us who shared the last meal will spill the beans about what happened (I'm not teasing, I want to avoid embarassment to my confreres). But I disagree with a lot of critics, which is why I try to be reportorial in the Digest and editorial in my reviews (since this post is in the latter category I will say that I trust Rubin and Simon and Michot et al at Le Figaro way above the Michelin gnomes.) My point in this thread was to disagree with the Violins/Astrance appraisal. But, Zouave, what do you think about a food fight on the subject of "How much does money, press coverage and buzz buy?" Amicalement, John
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The weeks of August 16th and 23rd, 2004 In Bonjour Paris, which only gives you a teaser unless you become a premium subscriber there’s a bit about La Chassegnette (which could be a misspelling of La Chassagnette, which is also a resto near Arles) by Taylor Horton. It is reportedly the “first certified organic restaurant in France,” whatever that means, and serves tapas and other delicacies. In August’s Where, Alexander Lobrano lists several types of restaurants, most of which are well-known to our readers who can search prior threads for more info: The third Robuchon place: La Table de Joel Robuchon Hotel places, which include: Les Ambassadeurs Le Bristol Le Cinq Alfresco places: L’Espadon Cafe Faubourg Le Safran which is new, at the Hilton Arc de Triomphe La Cour Jardin Les Paillotes in Ville d’Avray Place du Marche St-Honore spots: Point Bar Rouge Tomate L’Absinthe In case you were wondering where the national dailies’ food critics eat during vacation, I’m not sure, but they are filing from interesting places, e.g. Jean Miot of Le Figaro was in Martinique and reported August 24th on two restaurants there: Chez Fofor and Chez Tante Arlette which he has very good things to say about and August 27th reviewed Lard et Bouchon in Saint-Emilion. Likewise, Francois Simon was in the Moriban in La Roche-Bernard where he had good things to say about several (but not all) aspects of L’Auberge Bretonne and August 26th covered La Poularde in Gien. Finally, Alexandra Michot reviewed Le Café des Arts in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence August 28-29. N.B. When I started this Digest I stated I would primarily cover French restaurants in Paris, but summer presents a problem for me and an opportunity for you who vacation outside the peripherique; my suggestion: search the Figaro site using the city you’re near using Miot, Simon and Michot as well as “Vivre l’été,” the name of the section they file “La Table” pieces in during the summer, but it’ll take some searching since they’re not listed in the usual “Cuisine & Vins” category. I’ve received some flak from readers about reporting Patricia Wells’ columns since some folks feel she is too close to some chefs and more a promoter of restaurants than a critic, although she certainly dished it out to Hiramatsu a few months ago. Anyway, with a grain of salt, I report that August 27th she reviewed with enormous enthusiasm Robuchon’s two latest efforts: L’Atelier de Joêl Robuchon and La Table de Joêl Robuchon whose coordinates have already been widely disseminated. Finally, I hope on a lighter note, the throw-away freebie newspaper Metro, taking a page from the Starbucks/New York Times deal in the states, will henceforth be available at McDonalds in Paris.
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There is indeed a restaurant called Le Chistera at 60, Rue St-Maur in the 11th, 01.47.00.46.87. It doesn’t reopen until August 31st but was well-lit when I looked inside. It has the décor and appearance of the old Les Ormes or L’Equitable and a menu that is indeed full of duck dishes for 1sts and mains. I think the website accurately describes their fare but obviously I neither tasted it nor saw the customers eating. I’d be most interested in someone’s experience because like others, it’s not in any of my guidebooks.
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Ah thank you for the "young" descriptor Pim. And I did read all the negative and mixed reviews and it was not until Figaroscope gave it 3 hearts June 9th and a friend, my most trusted "tester/taster" said he'd never had a better meal there the week of July 14th that I decided to return. I'll post details with my "Rentree" list next week.
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There's another book Gourmet Paris by Emmanuel Rubin of Le Figaro in English published by Flammarion that has every possible dish you could want - from Andouillette to Truffles. It's at amazon.fr Gourmet Paris: What to Eat Where, Dish by Dish (27 novembre 2001) de Emmanuel Rubin -- Broché EUR 13,30 Disponible en 6 jours In addition, the Red Michelin lists "the plate that you seek" pages 33-35 (1141-3) in the 2004 edition. I'd suggest you consult both these, plus Google what you seek and triangulate the lot (myself I like Chez Rene 14 bd St-Germain (01.43.54.30.23) in the 5th for Coq au vin and L'Escargot Montorgueil, 38 rue Montorgueil in the 1st (01.42.36.83.51) for escargots, unless you're staying in a flat, in which case buy them from L'Escargot de la Butte in Montmartre and cook them at home. Whoever told you that one-dish restaurants often fall down elsewhere was correct too, unfortunately, so you probably should find a place that does have both the dish and a decent general reputation. Your teetottling will expand the number of places you can eat at to stay under 100 too. Don't sweat the French capacity; if you try to connect with even horribly pronounced "Bonjour, Au voir, Excusez moi de vous deranger, Je ne parle pas francais," they're most forgiving and in restaurants there's usually if not always a designated speaker; it's their business after all. I think what burns the French and me for that matter is making no attempt to learn even a few phrases and blustering forth with a loud aggressive "I'm an American and rule the world" attitude. On the other hand, do brush up anyway, it staves off the Alzheimer's. In addition, guidebooks in French are easier to translate than Proust because you know the basic rules of a review.
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Rumaging in my piles of old Figaroscope's I just came across this article on couscous places in Paris. Enjoy!
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You are not wrong, but she's still charming. Also to all the folks who love L'Astrance and dislike Les Violins I say "au contraire." But that's another thread - which I may just start - called "How much does money, press coverage and buzz buy?" I'd start with Helene Darroze but I think we could generate quite a discussion. Later.............. By the way, I think I just figured out the marker (as in “genetic marker”) for starred restaurants – it’s having your place swept clean of crumbs after the bread is removed. Oh sure, the locale, voiturier, flowers, big staff, table settings, amuse gueules, little between course extras and coffee nummies, not to mention the food, count, but I posit this as an essential.
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At the risk of being lynched, I'll tell you (Robert) that Le Regalade as of two days ago, was better than ever. I'll post the full details in a while. But I agree that game season will tell. Also Bux, the gang at les Ambassadeurs I believe included the now-reigning chefs at Le Repaire de Cartouche and Le Troquet and a couple of others whose names/restaurants escape me; (plus I'm watching the women's 10K.) Not a bad heritage for Christian if you count L'Ourcine as a grandchild.
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To help in your search here are some books that cover the "cheap eats" field: Guide Petit Futé : 1001 meilleurs restaurants à moins de 20 € Guide Petit Futé -- Broché Les meilleures tables de Paris à moins de 30 € L. Fourneau – Broché Sandra Gustafson's Cheap Eats in Paris: A Traveler's Guide to the Best-Kept Secrets Sandra Gustafson -- Broché And much as I hate to disagree with my mentor Bux, I had a great meal alone at Aux Lyonnais followed by a disappointing one for four of us. Finally, I found a great new "cheap eats" restaurant today - L'Abadache in the 17th - which I'll write up fully next week - menu = 18 E.
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BTW there's a nifty and very nice Escargot store, L'Escargot de la Butte, 48, rue Joseph-de-Maistre adjacent to the Montmartre cemetery, where you get get all sizes of snails already filled with Burgundian butter. My love of them does date me but hey, my picture gives it away anyway.
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I'd love to know how folks like him and his family keep pushing the envelope (eg innovating) without losing their classical base. Also what no one has ever asked him. Finally, where he sees things headed; not fads but useful trends. Sounds great, have fun and do let us know.
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For couscous I'd propose the upscale but delicious L'Atlas, 12 bd St-Germain, in the 5th, 01.46.33.86.98 altho the Etoile Marocaine in the 8th, 56, rue de Galilee is a phenom because it's open every day of the year including all holidays.
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You've got a lot of time to collect ideas and obsess; I agree that your list will be much longer than the number of food opportunities. To address a couple of items; there are threads on Cheap Eats (no longer so cheap with the dollars fall) and the Digest has a list from Le Figaro in the week of May 10th as does picaman. I use 100$ for two as my standard too; this was easy ten years ago, but now is harder, so I pretend the dollar=euro and sleep better. Also, threre are plenty of ethnic places; the Pudlowski has a section after French restaurants devoted just to "Tables d'ailleurs" and Routard publishes a book on Ethnic food every year or two - "Guide du Routard : Paris exotique 2003 " orderable from Amazon.fr here. Finally, after years of eating out 2 times a day, we always eat our big meal at lunch (for the reasons given/implied above, eg there are menus and formules (where you can have a 1st and 2nd, or 2nd & dessert), they are much less costly than at night); then we walk it off and have something light (granted it's easier in an appt than hotel room) at night. However, I surely understand wanting to have 10 food experiences in 5 days too.
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Sorry fresh_a, I didn't mean you didn't scoop; I was answering Felice. Again, apologies.
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French bread at the art-couture intersection
John Talbott posted a topic in France: Cooking & Baking
If you love bread in all its forms (hats, dresses, curtains), have never seen it made or smelled fresh bread and have 6.50 Euros burning a hole in your pocket, go to Jean-Paul Gautier’s show at the Foundation Cartier. Otherwise I’d advise skipping it despite the New York Times review July 25th; it’s but the latest attempt of the FC to emulate the late unlamented American Center in Bercy’s taste in contemporary art. While I’m totally incompetent to judge the artistic merits of haute couture, I know my bread. -
It seemed fitting on August 25th, the day of the 60th anniversary of the Liberation of Paris, with French citizens dancing to 40’s big band music dressed in US Army kit in the pouring rain, that I eat on the avenue named for the best known leader of the resistance – Jean Moulin, in fact at # 49, home of La Régalade. Aside from a most excellent meal, which I’ll report in greater detail next week, I had the first confirmation of the trend, reported by François Simon that I quoted in the Digest of the week of June 21st, that restaurants now offer to cork your unfinished wine so you can take it home. I had a nice Vin de Pays d’Orange which cost less per full bottle than a glass of stuff I didn’t want and on getting up to leave was offered the remainder comme doggie-bag. A nice trend.
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Felice is correct (as usual) but I think there is a palpable difference between the two. While William Ledeuil was the brains behind both and when Ze Kitchen Galerie opened, shuttled between the two, now he's at Ze having left the Savoy empire. In addition, because Bouquinistes is older (by maybe 10 years) it has more tourists than Ze and has continually raised its prices if those are issues for you. I wholeheartedly endorse Ze, it is fusion but without the excess exhibited by places like L'Angl'Opera or Lucullus. I will post my reactions to Pinxo next week which I think is pleasing like Ze but in a Basquoise way; short conclusion=I loved it. Finally, I think everything Christian Constant touches- eg Violin, Fables, Cafe C - works very well.
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As I noted May 10th in the Digest: "Savoy has just bought Chiberta on rue Arsène-Houssaye in the 8th."
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The only time I was there I was meeting two friends for a Ricard at the bar before going across the street (to the late lamented Marines of Petrus) for lunch. So we felt no need to order anything other than drinks. Nor should you.
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To answer an earlier query; the Caves Petrissans does have a full menu: incl quenelles de brochet, sole, cod, faux-filet, etc.
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There's a difference between the Fables and Cafe C; Fables has a full kitchen, but the Cafe has little but a hot plate upstairs, hence the platters from the Violin. This is solid info acquired from going to the restrooms in both.
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Hi, I'll be eating in Dijon the end of September and will let you know if I come across any finds. My last visit to Montpellier was in May 2003 so it's outdated info.
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From the Digest: "Where. In February I found three pretty new wine bars mentioned by Alexander Lobrano – La Muse Vin 101 rue de Charonne in the 11th, 01.40.09.93.05 Les Couleurs de Vigne 2 rue Marmontel, 15th, 01.45.33.32.96 featuring Auvergnat meat and cheese. Chez Grisette 14 rue Houdon, 18th, 01.42.62.04.80 where he liked the Aurillac cold meats, pork shin on lentils (from the ardoise) and a homemade terrine de campagne."
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The quick answer is yes, although I am one of those who's only been there for drinks. I'm without my Lebey or Pudlowski right now, but check them for details.
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With all due respect, your question poses a few problems before one can help out. First, to get a Michelin star/macaroon, one must be either be established elsewhere, eg Robuchon, Ducasse, Loiseau, or be in business for a while (thus precluding new restaurants which usually are a better value until they are reviewed in the usual guidebooks, at which point, they usually raise their prices). Second, Michelin often awards restaurants stars/macaroons in France for decor and flowers over food, again reference Loiseau (Burgundy Stars) which sometimes merit several knives & forks without the star/macaroon. Finally, you don't specify for lunch or dinner, and there's often a sizeable differential. If you can clarify a bit, I and we will be better able to answer.