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Everything posted by John Talbott
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Well, it is literary shorthand for the "pushing the envelope" type food, but L'Angl'Opera does truly serve "Granny Smiths & a quirky catsup sauce a part"
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It's kind of corny and the food's not spectacular but there's always Bel Canto (two locations; 72 quai de l'Hotel de Ville in the 4th and 88 rue de la Tombe-Issoire in the 14th.) Young music students qua waitpeople break out into song all the time. It fulfills the "laughter part" and probably the agneau.
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Sorry to quibble but the Japanese are the first in, then Dutch and we pull up a distant third.
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Thanks Fat Guy, scribblers thrive on applause, no matter what they tell the reader. I'd love to see the notes to you, tho', they might be helpful in shaping future editions. I try, not always successfully, in the digests to be neutral and provide reportage but to be editorial in the reports of new restaurants such as: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=40155 http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=44583 http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=41939 Finally, to follow the Camdeborde saga, Rosa Jackson in this month's Paris Bites repeats what we've heard elsewhere already, that he'll open "very soon" (well, we all know what that means in French, normalement = forever) a small hotel, open to the public only at lunch, and to guests in the evening, with an open kitchen, a visable chef, etc., etc., but without changes in his style. But more on that in this week's Digest.
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To follow the Yves Camdeborde saga, Rosa Jackson in this month's Paris Bites repeats what we've heard elsewhere already, that he'll open "very soon" (well, we all know what that means in French, normalement = forever) a small hotel, open to the public only at lunch, and to guests in the evening, with an open kitchen, a visible chef, etc etc, but without changes in his style. But more on that in this week's Digest.
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Like NulloMondo, to get what I call in the US rare, I order - bleu. "A point" for me is always too much and rose never quite there.
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Sorry fresh_a, JT is of no help; the last trendy place I visited anywhere was Studio 54 before the owners got sent to the pokey.
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I'm delighted you got the same address and tel number I did. I'll drop by.
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To those, such as scranmeister, interested in how Le Regalade is faring under Bruno Doucet the first review I've seen was in Wednesday's Figaroscope - 3 hearts - see the Digest for link here As for La Famille, Tighe, I've eaten there three times since Francois Simon raved about it in his Croque Notes in the fall. The first time, I was blown away, they offered me all sorts of tastings of innovative things (e.g. a single marinated gamba with the tail broiled, the middle mi-cuit and the body almost raw), the second time I returned with a European friend and we both thought it was a bit edgy (fish too cooked for sashimi, not cooked enough for texture), and the third time went with my wife Colette and two foodie friends and we all thought it had gone over the edge into preciousness. But it continues to get good press, so.....
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Yes - please see http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=40155 I've eaten there 3 times and loved it.
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The week of June 7th In Monday's Le Figaro Entreprises, as usual, François Simon reviews established places – this week - L’Ardoise, 28, rue du Mont-Thabor, 75001 Paris (01.42.96.28.18). Closed on Monday and Tuesday; it’s a rarity that’s open Saturday and Sunday. The menu is 30E and he thinks it’s the best quality/price bistrot in the area (Saint-Honoré). He mentions the asparagus, whole bar, poulet of Bresse, roast pigeon and little pots of chocolate. He says it may be crowded but stick with it. (Digester’s note; it’s one of Pascal Remy’s favorites too.) For the whole review, please click here Francois Simon's Croque Notes appeared this week in Tuesday’s Le Figaro. He discusses the La Baule paradox, as a locale where cooking is sort of lost in the past (my translation of Simon’s typical literary flourish); his case in point was l’Eden Beach at the Hermitage which he loved. He also discusses the guide book for the region, le Guide Gantié, and mentions all the restaurants he, Gantié, highly rated. For balance, I’d remind readers that Olivier Morteau thought little of Gantié, e.g.: “Jacques Gantié (the Pudlowski of the South)’s column “Saveurs” in Nice-Matin and his Guide Gantié represents nothing but bullfighting, women, cigars and bon vivants. In ParisObs, Philippe Coudourc reviews Djoon, 22, boulevard Vincent-Auriol (13e); 01-45-70-83-49 which he calls subtly simple from nems to chocolat à la crème d’amandes amères. It’s another place (like last week’s Le Duc de Richelieu) that features classic dishes: eg terrine of pork, herring, boudin noir, enormous choucroute, etc., etc. Read the article here It was mentioned previously in my Digest of May 31st where I noted that in the 19-25 May Pariscope, Time Out reviewed it and thought it was "really good" but its downsides were its location by the Bibliothèque National (Mitterand), its desserts and its "acid jazz." Another review in ParisObs is of L’Entredgeu, 83, rue Laugier, in the 17th; 01-40-54-97-24. Since it’s not really new (2 years old maybe) and is really tricky to find (my comments, not ParisObs’) I’ll let you look it up. Wednesday, Figaroscope was topped off with the first review I’ve seen of the reborn La Régalade, which so many eGulleteers liked so much under Yves Camdeborde's direction, under its new chef. It gave it 3 hearts and describes Bruno Doucet as a young and impeccable successor. It says the restaurant retains the same colorfulness, same need for advance reservations and same bistrot "esprit." Plus the menu-carte remains at 30E with supplements. It also gave one heart apiece to a bio restaurant – Biotifull (I’m not making that up), Le Zinc des Cavistes, Le Cercle Rouge (a wine bar) and Il Cielo (Italian of course.) For the whole review, please click here As for Figaroscope's regular Wednesday compendium, it reviewed eight Thai restaurants in Paris. Under my self-imposed rule, I won’t go into detail; but will say that I’ve found that Thai chefs using French produce different tasting meals than in the US or Thailand. You can check it out here. François Simon, in his Hache Menu, reviews one – Silk and Spice. Le Figaro’s Jean Miot, June 5th reviewed the 25 year old Pétrus which again, due to my self-imposed rule, I won’t dwell on overly, except to say (as he does) that it’s open on Sunday, combines fish, Savoy and Spanish influences and retains its charm after all these years. Pétrus, 12, place du Maréchal-Juin, 17th, 01.43.80.15.95. Menu: 42E and Carte: 60/85E. Le Monde’s Jean Claude Ribaut in the June 10th edition covers three places. The first is the very old (1923) brasserie, Savy, 23, rue Bayard, 8th, 01-47-23-46-98 (which sounds typical except for aligot each Wednesday and game each Tuesday in season), closed Saturday and Sunday. The formule is 19.50E, lunch menu 23.50E, terrorist menu 26.50E (just want to see if your reading carefully), and a la carte 40E. The second is a fish restaurant – Taïra – Japanese-French fusion, 10, rue des Acacias, in the 17th, 01-47-66-74-14, closed Saturday lunch and Sunday, serving interesting things such as nems with langoustine/ginger sauce as well as classics, e.g. la bouillabaisse (avec rouille et croûtons). Formule at 30E, menu 34E, dégustation menu 64E and a la carte 64E. The third is a tapas place L'œnothèque, 20, rue Saint-Lazare, 9th 01-48-78-08-76. Closed Saturday and Sunday. All a la carte but count on 30E. Previously, he had reviewed Sumai’s Café, 33, rue de Vaugirard, in the 6th 01.42.22.39.00, where I’m scheduled to eat next month, so I was interested in what he had to say, even though I’m a bit late picking up this review which was actually published May 14th. It sounds very Mediterranean with squid, sardines, tuna, etc. The bill averages 40E. I’ll let you know how it is. Food & Wine featured a review of La Famille in the 18th, already covered a fair amount elsewhere. I think it’s here Gourmet (USA) in GOODLIVING p 62 in its June 2004 issue featured l’Angl’Opera and La Table du Lancaster, Hotel Lancaster, 7 Rue de Berri, 8th, 01.40.76.40.76. Open seven days a week. More on Michel Troisgros’ La Table du Lancaster on both Jancis Robinson’s site, calling it marvelous and on the “same pedestal as Paris's two other highly cerebral and innovative chefs, Alain Ducasse and Joel Robuchon” but with “strange if not silly” categories of food, e.g. witty; zesty; piquant; sharp; green and sour (the bill for 3 = 257E) and Time Out also liked Le Cannibale, 93 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 11th 01.49.29.95.59 M° Couronnes. Open noon-midnight daily. Average 25E. The chef, Miranda Epstein, comes from Melbourne but cooks Middle Eastern oriented cuisine (e.g. tagines). ParisParler’s Adrian Leeds liked le Sot l'y Laisse, a Bistrot à Vins at 70, rue Alexandre Dumas, in the 11th, 01.40.09.79.20 Métro Avron, Alexandre Dumas, closed Sunday and Monday. A La Carte Menu: Average 30-35E a person. She calls it “beautifully delicious” and a “perfect neighborhood bistrot” with such things as asparagus, foie gras mi cuit, a half a duck, medallions of lotte, and a heavenly crème caramel. Figaroscope gave it two-hearts June 2nd (see the Digest of the week of May 31st). She also recommends the Bistrot à Vins Jacques Melac which has been around at least since 1981 when it won the Coupe du meilleur Pôt. It’s at 42 Rue Léon Frot also in the 11th. 01.40.09.93.37. A feature; it’s open 9 AM to 5 PM everyday except Sunday and Monday nite. Finally, Eat in Paris featured L’Emile 8, rue Jean Jacques Rousseau, 1st 01.42.60.08.00 which they describe as classic and relaxed. Previously, I’ve listed some outside restaurants for summer dining. This June 8th Bonjour Paris gave some more: La Terrasse du Parc Pershing Hall La Table du Lancaster La Petite Cour Au Café Moderne L’Espadon at the Ritz Le Cinq at the George V Bistro de Breteuil Hôtel Raphaël on the roof That's about it. Please post comments in the the discussion thread and not in the digest thread.
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Aspen Recommendations & Reviews
John Talbott replied to a topic in Southwest & Western States: Dining
I realize there's a thread running on Pinons and Beaver Creek here but I have a somewhat different query; since last summer, July-August, has any new chef taken over any existing restaurant and/or have any new restaurants opened in Aspen that are interesting to try? Thanks. -
OK OK I get the message, just do it! I will, but I'll also see the "Where" folks themselves and try to get a subs.
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I am hot on the trail of a regular supply of "Where's" since my routes of travel don't take me by 3-4 star hotels (which the "Where" folks in the central office told me they only distribute to). I will include it in my Digest ASAP. Also, to expand on my comments about sources of information on new restaurants, I have one additional secret weapon. He is a close friend who "auditions" restaurant menus in the window and sometimes in person. Unfortunately he's too bashful to write to eGullet but he watches us carefully.
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Yesterdays Figaroscope is the first place I've seen a review of La Régalade, which so many eGulleteers liked so much under Yves Camdeborde's direction. It gave it 3 hearts and describes Bruno Doucet as a young and impeccable successor. It says the restaurant retains the same colorfulness, same need for advance reservations and same bistrot "esprit." Plus the menu-carte at 30E with supplements. More in the digest soon.
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I've been baffled by them. Sometimes a 2-heart one week is better than a 3-heart just the week before. I often find that Francois Simon's Croque Notes or other small articles scattered about Le Figaro as well as the issues (late December & late June) of Figaroscope with numbers - eg 6.5-9/10 - differ as well. I also cross-reference them with Pariscope's Time Out section, Patricia Wells and other stuff I come across, which is why I think Bux asked me to do the Digest I think the positive spin found in Figaroscope and other reviews is inherent in the need to "find new chefs," sell guides or newspapers and "keep the food business going" as Olivier Morteau pointed out so well in "Food Business" I'd be interested in your best "new restaurant news sources."
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Patricia Wells reviewed it enthusiastically March 12th for what that's worth. See http://www.iht.com/bin/print.php?file=509935.html
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Can fresh_a or Bux give me the URL for From the Foodie Front Lines? No luck with Google Tx
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As I said elsewhere, I dropped into several hotels on the left bank (admittedly not the Crillon, George V, etc) and they didn't carry it; Where is not listed in the yellow or white pages, there's no Siege Social I can find on the web. I'd love to include it in the Digest; I've got one more lead in a big hotel - I'll ask her. If anyone has ther email, mailing address, tele or fax; I'll try that way. Thanks
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For me your question is too broad; trendy = what; loud music, 6 month's wait for reservations, folks under 30, fashionistas, media folk, beautiful people, voituriers, places serving "edgy" food, undercooked fish, kiwis and catsup, nems, world food, fusion, theme food?
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Artisanbaker's point is a good one. Even going to countries where your passport won't get stamped, (say Belgium by car), I've saved things like the gas receipts. Like Bux, I've never heard of them doing anything on exiting France if you overstay. On the other hand, I know French citizens, even married to Americans, where they overstayed their visas and they were barred from returning for some time. Again, tho, eGullet is not eForensics.
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I've eaten there maybe 6 times in two-three years and had very mixed results; the last time January 6th when there was practically nothing my wife Colette would/could eat. I had duck and scallops, she had a chicken & a tart. There are so many other great places now: Au Bon Accueil Ze Kitchen Galerie La Maison du Jardin Le Beurre Noisette Le Pre Verre L'Equitable La Dinee Café Constant Les Fables de la Fontaine L'Ourcine L'Astrée Le Duc de Richelieu Good luck
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Bux's wisdom is irrefutable, eGullet is probably not the ideal place to get a consultation from, but I have made it a practice to "get my passport stamped" (eg leave France for Switzerland, the US, Canada, etc) before 90 days are up whenever I'm in France for long periods.
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Thanks to both of you for the ParisObs reference; I'll add it to the Digest. Also where and how do you get "Where" aside from dropping into the Crillon and filtching a copy?
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I realize folks check these threads long after the questioner has ceased being interested so I'd refer anyone interested in eating at a traditional bistrot to Le Duc de Richelieu, my notes are here