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Everything posted by John Talbott
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I was looking over my wife Colette's shoulder in the kitchen last night and what did I see but the New York Times of July 21, 2004 p D3 "At my Table" by Nigella Lawson about "Spatchcock The Chicken: Cut the Cake. Ah summer!" She says "I am a great believer in butterflying the chicken (what we in Britain call spatchcocking)." Farther on "Butterfly chicken by....(cut to avoid copyright problems)...cut along both sides of backbone.....open it like a book....flatten it. So I guess it's a Britishism. And of course it's no longer free on line so if you want the article you have to pay $2.95 to the old Gray Lady.
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Do as F Simon suggests, make a reservation for 2 and say your friend missed his/her train - "Lesson #46: Eating alone at a restaurant: 10 ways to beat your fate, that is, of getting stuck at the worst table. Reserve for two persons, confirm it, shampoo and primp, take a good book, say not a word until seated (at a good table), announce with sincerity that your friend missed his train, when the other tables stare, you keep your cool, put the staff in your pocket by seeking the sommelier’s advice, smiling at the maître d’, etc, order three desserts and leave triumphant...."
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The week of September 13th, 2004 On the 11th (posted late), Jean Miot in “Propos de Table” in Le Figaro reviewed La Grande Cascade, that grand old restaurant in the Bois de Boulogne (coordinates in all the guidebooks) largely because of its cooking under Richard Mebkhout, the successor designate of Jean-Louis Nomicos, whose second he had been. Miot calls it a magical restaurant and says if you want to pretend you’re still on vacation, dine in this Belle Époque place. He calls the menu du Marché a happy innovation: it’s little langoustines poached with tomato jell or confited foie gras with truffles; Saint-Pierre or duck with spices; desserts are a cassoulet of Mirabelle cherries or a raspberry cake with zabaglione; but he touts also the “macaroni” of truffles and foie gras, pork cooked two ways, astonishing sweetbreads; summed up it’s a Bachian Goldberg Variation. Oh yes, he also reviewed La Forge in Lys-Saint-George, 02.54.30.81.68, with menus at 20, 25 and 32 E. On Sunday the 12th, Elaine Sciolino in the New York Times Travel Section mentions “a gem of a restaurant,” the already well-covered, see above, Table de Joël Robuchon, where she describes his “painterly” desserts, 20 wines by the glass ranging from $6-12 and $180 discovery menu. Which reminds me that I neglected to mention last Sunday’s (August 29th) New York Times’ articles by Dale Fuchs on the Left Bank and Jacqueline Friedrich on the Right Bank, both of whom were spending only 200 E a day and both of which mentioned the restaurants they ate at, most already well-covered as well: On the Left Bank: Le Petit Zinc, part of the Frères Blanc group Tokyotori Au Bon Coin and on the Right Bank Chez Imogéne, a creperie Le Marsangy and Aux Nègociants As François Simon might ask: Are the articles expensive (e.g. to obtain from the Times’ archives)? Oui! Must one read them? Franchement, non! On Wednesday, Sébastien Demorand in Zurban reviewed a new bistro, L’Ami Marcel, 33, rue Georges-Pitard, 01.48.56.62.06, in the 15th, Metro Plaisance and titled it “Bistronomically.” It’s a safe harbor in the area with a fine new team who know their staff. He calls it banal, in that it looks like what you’ve seen a thousand times. But the food, while sometimes familiar; e.g. Saler’s beef with big fries, is tops. There’s also a warm salad of beans, lisettes with cider and andouille rounds, tuna with fruits, confited lamb shoulder with onions and fruits, cheese from Marie Cantin, poached fruits with thyme and lemon. "Basta," he says, just go fast. It’s closed Saturday lunch and Sunday. He also has two French places in his “Casseroles” section that follows: Le Mûrier, 42, rue Olivier de Serres in the 15th, 01.45.32.81.88, which he describes as a little, tight café of the area serving food available in the market and friendly wines, all at reasonable (e.g. menú-carte 24.50 E) prices and Le Berthoud, 1, rue Valette in the 5th, 01.43.54.38.81, Metro Maubert-Mutualité which had a change of staff and serves food of the “terroir revisité;” “cake” of mushrooms, raviolis of tiny snails and veal’s foot, lamb shoulder with corn (with polenta a tad too watery), “gratin” of griottes, all he warns us, a bit feeble, not quite well enough polished but maybe with time…. The formule is 26.50 E and menú carte 29.50 E. Also on Wednesday, François Simon in his Haché Menu in Figaroscope ate at Le Murano, the same place the Figaroscope team gave 2 hearts to last week, saying the food was NY-Paris-Tokyo. Simon rails against the Parisians but equally the smelly toilets there, a hallmark he noted in his book, of a place’s commitment to hygiene. He ordered the emblematic tataki of langoustines which in “error” the chef poached rather than serve raw inside/seared outside as in Japan. His cod was well made but in a small portion. The meal was 200 E for 2. Should one go?: If you want to be like everyone else, it’s perfect. Figaroscope’s Dossier is entitled ”New Restaurants: To drink and to eat” and is authored by “the editorial staff.” (first time I’ve seen that). The introduction says the Dossier will cover new restaurants (some have been mentioned in prior parts of the Digest) but it also deals with changes, departures, rumors, etc. First, they mention the opening by Savoy of Le Chiberta, described as a nice homage to the 80’s, the taking over by Marc Marchand (after 10 years at Le Meurice) of Man Ray, a temple of food-biz, sushi, etc., which they judge to be pretty good, the opening of La Mezyana de Chez Jean, the upstairs addition to Chez Jean, serving midway between mezzes and tapas, Claude Colliot’s departure from La Bamboche to New York, succeeded by a chef who came from London via Rio and while not serving as original a menu, deserves a look, the Café Guitry, with skillful formulas and easy food, Il Sardo, a good reinstallation in the 16th, Dans le Noir, which presents a disconcerting and radical experience (this note must have been written by F. Simon, it’s in such convoluted language), Il Lotti, which reopened after several months’ work, having definitely lost its great Tuscan chef Gualtiero Marchesi, Wash by Arcaffe, another department store (Galeries Lafayette) café type place with the décor of a washomatic place of the 70’s, Curieux, a post-Baroque spaghetti-bar in the Marais, trouble at Apicius with Michel del Burgo not coming to replace owner Jean-Pierre Vigato who left to set up a place on the rue d’Artois with film director Luc Bresson, Hiramatsu, who will open a second place in December at Faugeron’s location, Kayser Odéon which will open their second sandwich restaurant-bakery in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, the Usines Ephémères, who are opening their cantine Point Ephémère to the public in the heart of Parisian bobo-land in October, Jean-Paul Arabian, ex of Ghislaine, the Palais-Royal and Zebra Square, who will open Dominique (when?), and Yves Camdeborde, ex of La Régalade, as reported here and elsewhere, is mysterious about where he will open his pension de famille at the end of the year. Further news: a fourth Cojean soup bar will open at 17 Haussmann in the 9th, 01.47. 70.22.65, a third Bel Canto will open on the rue du Commandant-Pilot in Neuilly, a second Bellota-Bellota tasting counter will open in Boulogne, the Café Renova will reopen at 32, avenue George-V in the 8th, 01.47.20.46.19, the Vieux Chêne has successfully reopened at 7, rue du Dahomey in the 9th, 01.43.71.67.69, and the mythic restaurants, Brasserie Lorraine 2, place des Ternes in the 8th, 01.56.21.22.00 and La Maison Rouge 13, rue des Archives in the 4th, 01.42.71.69.69, have been revamped and reopened. Finally, the surprises: Gilles Epié has left la Petite Cour, where it seems he just arrived, to return to le Pavillon des Princes 69, avenue de la Porte-d’Auteuil in the 16th where he put in 20 years with François Clerc and where his challenge will be the tight prices (e.g. carte 50E with wine and menu-carte at 35 E at lunch), a bistot called L’Ami Marcel was launched by a guy trained at Lucas-Carton (Sébastien Demorand of Zurban reviewed it above) at 33, rue Georges-Pitard in the 15th, 01.48.56. 62.06, Sousceyrac, home of the cassoulet has been replaced by a lounge called Purple at 35, rue Faidherbe in the 11th, 01.43.71.65.30, Starcooker 2, a “resto-bar-brunch” for Bobo’s is opening at 32, rue des Archives in the 4th, as is DanBau, a cantine run by an authentic Vietnamese Mama at 18, rue des Trois-Frères in the 18th, Bread & Roses, a ”resto-boulangerie-épicerie” at 7, rue de Fleurus in the 6th, 01.42.22.06.06 and Le Chapeau Melon, a wine bar/charcuterie/cheeseboard place run by Olivier Camus at 92, rue Rébeval in the 19th, 01.42.02.68.60. Yet more: two bistros à vins have opened: le Panta-gruel, 26, rue Berthollet in the 5th, 01.47.07.09.85, and L’Honoré, 13, rue Bosio in the 16th, 01.42.88. 12.12, an African place Eb N Lodge 11, rue de La Grande-Chaumière in the 7th, 01.46.34.07.58 and a suburban place le Paradis 4, route d’Auvers in Pontoise, 01.34. 43.15.12. Yet again more : l’Orée du Bois will or has opened under the George-V group (Buddha Bar, Barrio), while the Costes open a second hotel in the Marais. And finally, finally, under “Rumors and Murmurs,” the news that: Le Pavillon Baltard, the dinosaur of a brasserie in les Halles, will relight its fires thanks to the French humorist Stéphane Collaro, Ghislaine Arabian will take over her new place in 2005 after two years’ “technical” layoff, Phillippe Contini, the “newlook” pastryman (ex of Pétrossian et Peltier) has signed the contract on a new place and Marc Veyrat (Annecy etc) will find a place for his “laboratory” around the avenue Niel in the 17th. I assume there was a computer glitch this week because Figaroscope’s website reprinted last weeks’ reviews, while printing this week’s “Haché Menu” and “Dossier” above. Jean-Claude Ribaut, in “Toques en pointe” dated September 16 in Le Monde reviews several places: Restaurant W (in the Hotel Warwick), 5, rue de Berri, in the 8th, 01-45-63-14-11, where Franck Charpentier (trained by Dutournier) took over, apparently from Thierry Pelven, offering what sounds like a very nice choice of options, e.g. 6 entrees, 6 mains (duck, piglet), as many desserts, on a 44 E menú-carte and half-portion spread at 39E. It’s closed Sat & Sun, Le Marsangy, 73, avenue Parmentier in the 11th, 01-47-00-94-25, closed Saturday lunch and Sunday, which he likes for Francis Bonfilou’s respectful use of products, with a menu-carte of 20 E, Le Chambord 17, rue Paul Chatrousse, in Neuilly, 01-47-47-73-17, open every day but Sunday, which is already serving the earliest game of the season, Scottish grouse, and coming up in mid-October, royal rabbit, menu-carte at 35 E, and Issy Guinguette, (see above for other guignettes) 113 bis, avenue de Verdun in Issy-les-Moulineaux, 01-46-62-04-27, closed Sat, Sun and Monday night, for a simple, savory gourmand meal, menu-carte at 31 E. Wednesday, Margaret Kemp in Bonjour Paris talks of Le Chiberta’s ex chef Philippe da Silva, who’s now moved to Callas where he serves up good food at the Hostellerie Les Gorges de Pennafort. In passing she mentions Marc Marchand’s move to Man Ray too. Friday, Patricia Wells in “Bistros to dream on,” in the IHT reviewed Le Severo, 8 Rue des Plantes in the 14th, 01-45-40-40-91 which she calls a “model bistro.” She says it’s for meat eaters not vegetarians and she loves the beef William Bernet serves up from Limousin with fine fries as well as the sausages, andouilette and pork rillettes. The wine collection sounds impressive; specials on the chalkboard. Everything else sounds pretty good too. It’s closed Saturday dinner and all day Sunday. Cost = 35-50 E à la carte, no wine. She also reviewed Dominique Versini’s Casa Olympe, 48, rue Saint-Georges, in the 9th, 01-42-85-26-01 which is now serving simple Corsican/ Mediterranean food; eggplant, girolles and chanterelles, tomatoes, langoustine or duck raviolis and meringue bathed in fruit. À la carte, without wine, it’s 55-60 E. Closed Saturday and Sunday RestoaParis this week touted l’Astuce, 138, rue de Vaugirard in the 15th, 01-47-83-29-52 that serves classics such as a terrine of duck, magret of duck with prunes and argentine beef as well as things like a thin philo pastry stuffed with chicken (there are tasty looking pictures on the website). The prices are mild; 8 E for entrées, 15 E for mains and 7 E for dessert = 30 E plus the house wine at 20 E. ParisObs gives Le Chiberta a 14/20 for food and 13/20 for price/quality. In the Summer 2004 issue of Gastronomica, the four-year old academic quarterly, there were several articles that might be of interest to our members. First was an article entitled “Power Meal: Craig Claiborne’s Last Supper for the New York Times, by Mitchell Davis. It’s an account of his famous meal at the late Chez Denis, then a “little known restaurant” where Clairborne and Freney famously spent 4,000 1975 dollars. It also chronicles the history of restaurant critiquing in the US or at least at the New York Times. The other items are book reviews: Pierre Gagnaire: Reflections on Culinary Artistry by himself plus B. Beaugé, J-L Bloch-Lainé, M. Comolli, Y. Pennor and F. Simon, reviewed by Phyllis Richman, dealing with the chef’s thinking and execution of dishes, Camembert: A national myth by Pierre Boisard, translated by Richard Miller, reviewed by Gary Genosko, which gives the history and major issues, principly, that of pasteurization, of the famous cheese, and Le grand marché: L’approvionnement alimentaire de Paris sour l’Ancien Régime by Reynald Abad, reviewed by Kyri Watson Clafin entitled “The Insatiable City.”
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Must have been a slow news day. 1. No, just 15 days ago I sat with a fellow eGulleteer (French) for several hours on the terrasse of a cafe, nursing our cafes, chatting and we were treated very well. 2. Yes, they are getting fewer. 3. I suppose consciousness raising cannot hurt but I cannot see too much to come from it.
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This is from the Secrets of Paris Newsletter #51, dated today, which I've edited to avoid copyright issues: "Terry and Maureen('s).....favorite is La Tartine" (despite follonica2's note above that's it's totally changed). Also mentioned are the Taverne Henri IV and Le Gavroche; all I think were mentioned already.
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Oh well, I suppose now it will go the way of Balzar; speaking of which, since John Whiting's visit in 2001, anyone else tested the Flo/Balzar waters? As the sometimes maligned Olivier Morteau noted, stand-alone places, esp brasseries, are fewer & fewer. I'll be posting news in the Digest soon from Figaroscope Wednesday, of the Brasserie Lorraine's reopening after extensive renovation; made possible by monies no doubt from Les Frères Blanc.
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Well, they're different, but since all 3 are on my subway line, it's not a matter of convenience where I go. I've stopped going to Fauchon except to buy something with a Fauchon label to impress Americans in the US. I go to Hédiard for hard to find things, like little veggies. La Grande Epicerie is comprehensive with everything from standard confitures and veggies to high end meats and fine fish. As for touristy, bouf, their presence "est partout."
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I went to both La Regalade and L'Ourcine (where I had a spectacular pigeon) in the same week, two weeks ago and both were just fine. They're on my list for repeats. Remember, we've got until Oct or so until Gourmet blows L'Ourcine's cover. To repeat myself, but since someone, somewhere was wondering about the types of dishes served now at La Regalade; I had the usual amuse gueule of a terrine de campagne on wonderful bread, followed by a generous piece of foie gras swimming in a cream whipped up à la Detourbe with girolles; then a piece of veal liver from Corréze with what was understatedly called parsley butter accompanied by tiny shaved and fried Belles de Fontinet (?sp) potatoes and an exquisite salad of tiny greens; topped off by a Grand Marnier soufflé.
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Thanks fresh_a; that fills next week's reading hole.
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You may already have seen, but yesterday's Figaroscope had several more that have newly opened: Le Chapeau Melon, a wine bar/charcuterie/cheeseboard place run by Olivier Camus at 92, rue Rébeval in the 19th, 01.42.02.68.60, and two bistros à vins: le Panta- gruel, 26, rue Berthollet in the 5th, 01.47.07.09.85, and L’Honoré, 13, rue Bosio in the 16th, 01.42.88. 12.12.
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OK; yesterday's Figaroscope has no real news about the opening of Yves Camdeborde's new venture, indeed it deepens the "suspense" as they put it except to repeat the info that it'll be a pension de famille opening at the end of the year; where, who knows?
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I was curious about the question raised way above: is this VAT reduction for restaurants really a “done deal?” because while I know that Raffarin and Chirac have promised to do it, I’ve see nothing that says it’s a sure thing and indeed, anything that has to go through Brussels involves a horse-trade, so who knows? Thus I asked a friend, a keen observer of the restaurant and political situation in Paris, and this was his reply (edited a bit by myself): “The VAT reduction: no, it's not a sure thing, although everybody pretends it'll happen. When? Who knows? The Germans, for instance, disagree: and since we're also Europeans, we have to take other countries' points of view into consideration. We just can't do what we want to do, and decide from one day to another we're gonna lower our VAT from 19.6 to 5.5% -- let's be serious, here! But the thing is, Chirac and Raffarin made a big mistake the day they made that promise: because they knew it had to be an European decision. Next thing: will restaurants lower their prices if the VAT goes down? Never! That's what they said to be popular! But what the unions have promised is to hire and to raise the salaries. Someone on the thread wrote that "There is also an acute labor shortage in the restaurant industry. What would best correct that?" Would something like "the sexiness of the job" sound like a correct answer? For the moment, being a chef is not hot, fun, socially rewarding -- except when your name is Ducasse. But what about the 23 year old kid, gifted, running his own place? Yes, he does care about the VAT. But he'd also like people (who? the press, of course) to stop talking about the same old guys -- and I do respect Ducasse, of course. I think it's more fun to be a chef in the US than in France, really...” Which last comment (this is me here, John, talking) is certainly eye-opening and surprising to me.
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Last time (can't dig out notes now) there were too few things on the "menu" I wanted, eg salmon or chicken; back in the old days when she first opened Flora, I was there all the time. Let us know how you like it.
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Yes it is; when it opened two or was it three Augusts ago it was open all summer which was great. Since then, she's gotten good reviews, the prices are up and the number of offerings on the "menu" are down and I've stopped being a regular. To Laidback - thank you for the update; I've been by post-Flora and scoped the menu but now will try. As for annadev who mentioned "limited budget" restaurants there have been several threads on inexpensive restaurants and a couple of books: Guide Petit Futé : 1001 meilleurs restaurants à moins de 20 € Guide Petit Futé -- Broché Les meilleures tables de Paris à moins de 30 € L. Fourneau – Broché Sandra Gustafson's Cheap Eats in Paris: A Traveler's Guide to the Best-Kept Secrets Sandra Gustafson -- Broché and several lists, including an excellant one by picaman:
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Yes it is; when it opened two Augusts ago it was open all summer which was great. Since then, she's gotten good reviews, the prices are up and the number of offerings on the "menu" are down and I've stopped being a regular. To Laidback thank you for the update; I've been by post-Flora and scoped the menu but now will try. As for annadev who mentioned "limited budget" restaurants there have been several threads on inexpensive restaurants and a couple of books: Guide Petit Futé : 1001 meilleurs restaurants à moins de 20 € Guide Petit Futé -- Broché Les meilleures tables de Paris à moins de 30 € L. Fourneau – Broché Sandra Gustafson's Cheap Eats in Paris: A Traveler's Guide to the Best-Kept Secrets Sandra Gustafson -- Broché and several lists, including an excellannt one by picaman:
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My apologies for the misleading info about which side of the lake the SuperPanorama is on. Gary is quite correct. Above Pere Bise, though, there are several places, one with the view westward down over Pere Bise. Sorry. For the record and folks searching this thread in the future, the last Figaro article on Annecy I have in my archives is old: Friday Oct 5, 2001 and lists the following restaurants in Annecy: L'Atelier gourmand La Ciboulette La Voile La Rotande La Reserve L'Auberge de Savoie
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Yes, I don't think there are any other editions than the Albin Michel. I discovered it on my bookshelf in Paris last week (either I bought it in a fugue state or a good friend left it for me when visiting), in either case I'd forgotten all about it. When I went to amazon.fr there were no new copies available so the wait for a used one doesn't surprise me. Someone a while back on another thread suggested another French-located website for used books but I cannot recall what it was. Sorry.
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Comment se faire passer pour un critique gastronomique sans rien y connaître. François Simon : Éditions Albin Michel SA 2001, 342 pages (currently unavailable new on Amazon.fr). An American publisher might title it “The Dummies Guide to French Restaurants,” but my summary would be something like “How to pick a restaurant, eat well, avoid pitfalls and enjoy yourself.” It is written as if for a wannabe critic, but 99% applies to us all. In this drôle, perceptive and entertaining book, François Simon, ex of Gault & Millau, now at Le Figaro, gives 50 lessons for “being well treated in a restaurant.” He uses three modes of communication: some humorous instruction, bitingly incisive incidents and reviews of real places structured much as he does in Figaro Entreprises, e.g. Should I go?, Is it expensive? For me, the book started slowly and didn’t pick up speed until Lesson #7, so if you want to skip ahead, be my guest. Otherwise I’ll march you through the beginning. Lesson #1: How to choose a restaurant? Don’t dream the impossible dream, be realistic, patient (he recounts Jeffrey Steingarten’s seven trips to L’Arpège before understanding why it had 3 stars), accepting of imperfection and you’ll be rewarded. His appended review is of the Rainforest Café at Disney Village; in brief don’t go. Lesson #2: How to make a reservation? Call up and while using all the “magic words” that we teach our children, lower your voice an octave and assertively, clearly, concisely and firmly ask for a quiet table. Ideally, go by yourself first (even going so far as ordering the wines) so you don’t get subjected to his example where they gave him the runaround and denied he had a reservation. His review of La Guirlande de Julie is subtitled “Deliciously nothing.” Here the reservation screw-up, wait, food and service result in a “No go.” Lesson #3: How to enter? He maintains that entering is an art. Look important, direct yourself to the maître d’, don’t hesitate to throw him a curve (e.g. being more snobbish than he) and make sure to leave the case of wine or your golf clubs with the coat-check person. The review is of Robert et Louise where he culminates by being served a tart of rancid apples. Lesson #4: How to choose a table? You’ve already asked for a quiet spot, now as you’re led to “your” table you’ve got a few seconds to make a decision whether to sit there or refuse it; indeed if you do, the next one shown you is invariably better. Tips: avoid corridors, kitchens and toilets. Lesson #5: Stay anonymous? For the author, who prides himself on never being photographed or recognized, this is important. For us, it’s not much of a much. The review is of Maxim’s; the cuisine is banal but not indigestible; lacking stature despite the great setting and fabled history. Lesson #6: How to spot the traps? Simon points out that restaurants are cash cows, thus to avoid paying exorbitant prices for things like a “simple salad” which costs as if it were made of gold: split plates in two, avoid single glasses of wine, claim you’ve already eaten or plead having to catch a train. Review: Le Grand Venise where the table was “offered” apéritifs that actually cost $37 (all dollar figures are given for the franc/dollar rates when the book was written); the mineral water was $12 and dishes they split were more costly than on the nenu. Now things get juicier, funnier and more informative (to me anyway): Lesson #7: How to read the menu? or Pet Peeves 1. Telling you after you’ve decided on a dish that they’re out of it. 2. A menu that’s printed “in marble” once a year. 3. Playing games with the names of dishes; e.g. an osso bocco of lotte. 4. Dishes labeled “in my fashion.” 5. Restrictions, such as no orders after 10 PM. 6. Small, abbreviated menus with no inexpensive items. 7. Presenting you a menu open to the most expensive items. 8. The absence of prix fixe menus you have to ask for. He encourages us to search in the corners for stuff with interesting (e.g. inexpensive) prices and tells the story where a chef, sensing he didn’t see what he wanted, offered to make him what he, Simon, wished. Review: Minchelli, where he truly illustrates the title of this section with the now well-known tired jokes, Parisian cynicism and “absurd poetry” of the menu. Go - no way. Lesson #8: Can one fiddle with the menus? In brief, it’s tough: e.g. to not have everyone order a tasting menu, to take one from column A and one from column B. Simon suggests you play dumb, remember that if a meal begins badly it ends badly and figure out your exit route when this happens; there’s always Pizza Express he reminds us. His example: Chez Wanieck where he imagines a tidal wave hitting Paris, leaving only this place above water. Lesson #9: Must you order what’s strongly recommended? Short answer, of course not. As well, Simon objects to the common practice of not giving prices for suggestions of the day (shades of the US) and warns us especially of “noble” items: e.g. lobster, truffles, caviar, and turbot…. Lesson #10: How to spend less. He quotes a chef who says (liberally translated) “everytime someone opens the door, it costs us $74, if I kept it shut I’d save money,” as if that justifies elevating costs. Simon suggests: not ordering orally given specials, not having an apéritif, not hailing the champagne cart, not ordering all 3 courses, not taking a cigar or bottled water or playing like millionaires with tips. Instead, and he stresses this, decide what your desired main dish will be and construct a dinner around that and order “little appellations.” His review is of Le Bourdonnais and the tale that follows recounts booked it through Dégriftour (like Expedia). Reading this review, you sample some of Simon’s acidity when crossed; e.g. the service was minimal and nul; the ambience masochistic and the wine that came with the $100 prix fixe was a “mystery wine.” Lesson # 11: How to work up an appetite? Alleging that he only eats once or twice a month at the grand restaurant, he advises that, on those days, we have a light lunch, have sage or green tea in the afternoon, a lemon squeeze at 6 PM and drink lots of water. He also fasts once a month, regularly works out, drinks only the best of apéritifs, diets and drains his liver with herbs (I’m not making this up). Finally, psych yourself up. Lesson #12: Must you judge the restaurant by its bread? Yes; it’s the first indication of a place’s worth and the chef’s professionalism and food savvy. Look, listen to its crunch, smell it and only then taste it. Here again, Simon is at his one and only literary best – describing how one inspects all the aspects of bread as if it were a piece of sculpture. Chez Raymonde is his example of, for once, dropping his role as critic and just getting into the spirit of the place. Lesson #13: How to deal with the sommelier. To start, he describes him as dressed like a sadomasochist (chain, opener, knife, tasting cup) on whom the Hell’s Angels have nothing and acting like an animal. He acts like he’s seen everything and tasted everything. Since sommeliers change often, they ignore much of the old stock– so home in on those (but later he warns that some really old ones are by now are dead dogs). And beware those marked old vintages; instead head for sweet and divers (no real translation) wines. Sommeliers will try to steer you towards expensive wines and with the multiplier effect of at least 3, and sometimes 6, you really get stiffed. Lesson #14: How to out-snob the snob (eg the sommelier)? Choose a wine you know by heart, ask him to remind you if it was grown on the hillside or farther down, stop conversing if he is inept in uncorking the bottle or spills a drop, and take an attitude like Colombo “Tell me, this first pressing, it was by hand or machine?” If he wants to let it air in the glass, argue to let it air in the bottle - and vice-versa. And only pour into a carafe a young wine, especially a white. Take courses, take notes in illegible handwriting, ask for the wine at the temperature of the cellar, and jovially share with him all the spelling mistakes in his wine list. Lesson #15: How to have a successful business meal? This is probably more information than any person not working in France would need; highlights – scope it out in advance, find a place where you can talk, have apéritifs, avoid a credit card fight at the end. The review: Apicius: very, very expensive but go once a year (that was written when Jean-Pierre Vigato, soon to leave, was there). Lesson #16: How to best a snob? First, let the know-it-all preen his stuff, then ask arcane questions about what cups he drinks tea from (Royal Westminster, etc), practice little tricks with the bubbly, and finally be a bigger snob. Lesson #17: How to talk to a chef? Simon says encounters with chefs are invariably a disaster; primarily because they want to be loved and the critic to have no criticisms; he gives a list of things you say and how they hear them; e.g. the critic says “It’s very, very, very good” the chef hears “not bad;” critic says: “very interesting,” he hears “there’s an idea there, but on the whole he failed.” His review is of La Pergolèse and it features the chef checking at least three times with him to ask if he likes the food, etc. Lesson #18: Must you let the chef get his way? Essentially, if he’s meandering off on his own way, there’s little you can do but say you’re allergic to (say) truffles, if that’s his flavor of the week. The review is of Le Petit Colombier where the chef of the old school makes everything from an autumn salad to royal rabbit and is ever-present. Lesson #19: How to maintain your cool faced with intimidating products?, e.g. caviar (have it at home), foie gras (avoid pâté-like stuff), truffles (again buy it in an épicerie and sample with friends at home) and above all – ask questions about the product’s provenance, etc. Lesson #20: How to enjoy a coffee? talks of a good machine, fine cups and producing a proper mousse. The review is of Le Barrio Latino for a Sunday brunch which he concludes was not good and thus scandalously expensive. Lesson #20: How to find new places before the others?. In brief, read publications that closely monitor changes in the restaurant business; e.g. L’Hôtellerie, Le Figaroscope, Le Figaro; read between the lines in the L’INSEE reports (which I didn’t find terribly helpful); become a flaneur and scan windows as you walk around Paris and sometimes, but rarely, find them in the guidebooks. The review is of Les Magnolias, an example of a “little pearl” in the suburbs (that I also have been unable to convince anyone I recommend it to, to visit). Lesson #22: How to test a trendy restaurant ?, Georges or Bon or the Costes places, for example. Simon suggests you use different standards than usual, treat them for what they are, and eat simple dishes. His review of L’Avenue, the Costes flagship place, emphasizes the décor and clientele; as for the food, he writes “The food. The what? But you surely joke?” Lesson # 23: How to approach ethnic food? Speak with the owner and ask about dishes that are “personal” not “typical,” try the wines of their country rather than rosés from Provence, don’t be timid about asking how to eat a course, try new things, study a bit (e.g. learning that true risotto takes 22-23 minutes to prepare) and try everything once. His review is of Sawadee, a thaï restaurant which he judged authentic and honest. Lesson #24: How to test a sushi bar?. I’m not sure there’s much here of news to American foodies: hygiene is #1, freshness #2 and talent of the sushi chef #3. His review is of Lô Sushi where he thought the prices were outrageous (his bill was $60 which wouldn’t surprise most Americans) and the sushi disappointing. Lesson #25: How to test a platter of shellfish? For assured freshness, he recommends eating at a brasserie where they do a lot of them. He warns that too much ice is a bad sign, indicative of covering old product, advises us to test langoustines by separating their heads from their bodies and see if there is a slight amount of resistance and to test the “state of health” of the oysters by putting a drop of lemon on them to see if they react immediately. His accompanying review is of the venerable brasserie Marty, which he recommends especially for the price although he’s not convinced the product truly arrived yesterday and didn’t think the scallops were the best. Lesson #26: How to get the temperature you want for wine? In brief, make it clear what you want and take possession of the bottle yourself, so, say the white wine doesn’t get overly warm in a giant glass. His review: the Hemingway Bar at the Ritz where he likes the barman and where the white wine and a Bloody Mary were as he likes them. Lesson #27: Should you ask the chef to come to your table? Not if you find a gold crown in your food (instead pocket it) but yes if it’s lead, or you’ve waited an hour to be served. He says it’s useless to complain if a dish is bad; the waiter or chef’s automatic response is that “everyone else loves it like that.” Lesson #28: Is it necessary for the chef to be present? He notes that Joêl Robuchon is never visible so he can take off any time he wishes and that it’s not necessary for the chef to be present – after all you don’t expect Enzo Ferrari himself to tighten the nuts & bolts. And he quotes the famous, probably apocryphal answer Bocuse reportedly gave to people asking who cooks when he’s not there: “the same guy as when I am here.” The review, most appropriately, is of Alain Ducasse who maintains that he’s there when needed. Lesson #29: Is it necessary to see the kitchen? Despite Michelin’s practice, his answer is No. Lesson #30: Several little tests to make you have confidence in the place…. Check for a clean ashtray and clean glass, see what happens when cutlery clangs on the floor or a napkin drops, order a simple dish (e.g. the old sliced tomato trick) and/or olive oil, fleur de sel, a peppermill. The review is of a place I assumed no one but me has gone: Ikea out at Paris Nord, where they had a menu for $6 ($1 for the children’s menu) and he had fish with ginger and blanc-manger, but was served not by his fantasied pretty, buxom, Swedish “girl,” but a sweet woman from the Dominican Republic. Lesson # 31: How to get the right temperature (for the food)?, e.g. so it’s neither carbonized (meat), cold (cheese), or frozen not cold (ice cream). He describes an experience he had in a restaurant near L’Opera when the fresh roasted apricot he had ordered arrived sending off sparks, then died an agonizing death. Answer: be specific about what temperature you expect dishes to be at. Lesson #32: How to change (that is, send back) a bottle of wine? This is a good reason to have had the sommelier participate in the decision; then he’s stuck with switching. He quotes an experience, as an example, when the sommelier tasted the wine and pronounced it good but on airing it was obviously corked and the sommelier agreed with everyone at the table. Simon suggests one not say “I don’t like it,” but rather use terms such as: lifeless, musty, old, transparent, watery, madeirized, acerbic, raw, broken, corked, warped, sour, diminished, flat, narrow, unbalanced, tired, tasting like flooring… Lesson #33: What’s a good cheese spread? First, the platter should be hygienically perfect, second, there should be no contact with the straw and third, not too many cheeses should be there – 7-12 is correct. Finally, don’t go for the raisin rolls and ask for cheese that goes with the wine you already have (why order more?). Lesson #34: How to test desserts? The flaky pastry is the best test, the ice cream shouldn’t be frozen, avoid floating island, only your mother could really make crème brûlée and the best test of chocolate is a mousse. The review is of La Flèche d’Or which he subtitles “abracadabrantesque” (a word Chirac used dismissively about the charges brought against him several years ago, implying they were a product of fantasy). Simon had a tiramisu which the “adorable” server said was “excellent,” but he found had the appearance of a “drag queen” (in English.) Lesson #35: How to have a successful romantic meal? He maintains that every day can be Valentine’s Day but one must avoid restaurants that are too romantic (e.g. flowers, boudoirs, couples coupling), not pick heavy foods, reserve a good table, put the maître d’ in your pocket, and forget how much it costs. His review is of Au Café de l’Industrie, a vast barn of a place with spots on the wall, couples quarreling, etc. (PS It’s since been renovated and reopened not long ago.) Lesson #36: How to make a meal short? He starts with a story of reaching 11:30 PM after 16 bottles of wine and 18 entremets and suggests one make clear to the staff from the start how much time you have, use catching a train as an excuse, and order dessert, coffee and the bill at the same time (avoiding three round trips). His review is of the now definitively closed Au Pactole, where the well-known (to anyone who’s eaten there) patronne arrived very late and spent hours, it sounds like, blaring away at top volume (he calls her Radio Casserole) at two guests about everything from jazz to the Restaurant Association). How to judge a restaurant on its cigars? Starting off by chastising those who light up oblivious of others, he gives the rituals I think our readership is quite familiar with: e.g. humidification, preparation, lighting up, etc. Lesson #38: What should you try? Interesting point he raises, in that some critics eat the same item to see how it fares at different places, while others try different and innovative dishes and still a third group order what they do not like. He suggests you recall Gault & Millau’s dictim to go to a restaurant first and foremost to have a good time; also to try dishes that are more complicated; to order the dégustation menu because that’s the chef’s signature, to pay attention and to watch the vegetables (I take it, because surprises often reveal themselves there). His review is of “S&M” Restaurants, e.g. Korova, 59 Poincaré, Xu and their counterforces Chez Georges, Chez Henri, Le Verre Volé and Villaret. He calls them “S&M” because they are “Candide-esque,” uncomfortable and force you, by their prices, to omit dessert. They are Petri dishes of the cellphone culture, their maîtres d’ are better dressed and tanned than you, they commit treason with ethnic dishes (sushis, risottos) and he suggests the only way to best them is to ask for the bill before you order (that’ll shock the waiters!). Lesson #39: How to read a critique/critic? You need to read between the lines and he has several tips: beware reviews praising the view or the seat cushions rather than the chef, note that some towns are over-represented in a guidebook – that’s where the critics have country homes and if reviews present menus as “marathons,” you’re in trouble. Beware those who both call the chef by his first name and those who speak ill of him vengefully because they were teed off by a big bill. Lesson #40: The rules of critiques/critics? “Between us, it’s not too tough to trash a restaurant,” says Simon. But he recommends that we avoid misjudging it by not going the first day it opens, not bringing more than 4 people, testing the dishes made by the chef (rather than oysters or lox, etc), avoiding eating at times or on days when it will be packed, not changing what the dish is supposed to come with and being courteous. His review, of Le Véfour is subtitled “Genial but disappointing,” which seems an understatement after he reels off the faults: badly cooked meat, idiotic desserts, precious portions, waiters who were more intent on figuring out their cut of an out-of-sight bill, etc etc. Lesson #41: How to get comp’d? Flatter, compliment, lie, butter up the chef, tell them to send the check to your editor, don’t talk too much and remain courteous. Lesson #42: Must one see the toilets? If the hygiene is shaky, so will be the food. A good place cares about the every detail, regularly monitors all parts of the restaurant and keeps everything spic and span. The review is of The (sic) Chipper; Sex or fried Mars bar? I’m afraid Simon has lost me in understanding its relationship to toilet-inspection, in describing this place which truly does serve a fried Mars bar, whose ingredients he laboriously and in his words “pré-vomatif”ly lists. Lesson #43: Dare to speak up? because the customer’s always right. You want some special fried potatoes, your wine’s no good, your glass in empty, you’ve waited 45 minutes between courses, the temperature of the room is wrong – speak up! Lesson #44: Must you blow off steam at the place?. Yes, if the dish is cooked to the wrong degree of doneness, the wine is too cold or too warm, the table is poor, the item is not good or there’s an error in your bill. The review is of L’Arpège entitled Alain Passard: happy traitor (really deserter), where he judges the vegetarian mean enchanting, thinks the staff is as large as the Mexican Army but the bill ($500 for 2) for a non-meat meal was excessive unless it covered the cost of the farmer’s back pain, the manicure of the radishes, the back rub for the carrots, etc. Lesson #45: How to quiet down a boisterous bunch or cigar smokers or tellers of funny but dreary stories? Summon the maître d’hôtel, suck it up and roll your bread or speak more loudly yourselves. Or pull his trick; call a trusted friend, have him call the maître d’ to put the offending party on the phone (he’ll notice the drop in volume immediately, thus becoming your ally), when the offending customer hands the phone back to the maître d’ have the friend tell him, very nicely, to ask them to cool it and then you may eat in peace while the perpetrator slinks back to the table. Lesson #46: Eating alone at a restaurant: 10 ways to beat your fate, that is, of getting stuck at the worst table. Reserve for two persons, confirm it, shampoo and primp, take a good book, say not a word until seated (at a good table), announce with sincerity that your friend missed his train, when the other tables stare, you keep your cool, put the staff in your pocket by seeking the sommelier’s advice, smiling at the maître d’, etc, order three desserts and leave triumphant. His review is of Benoit where he had a salad, magret de canard, and cheese as part of a $60 menu and ends up saying that for once, the food guides are more in touch than the American tourists (Interesting comment, eh?) Lesson #47: Is it necessary to tip? Once you’ve already paid $10 to the vouturier and $8 to the coatcheck person, leaving another $18 for the rest of the staff seems logical. But if you’re a critic, eating 400 meals a year, the toll becomes heavy. But do tip if the service is really nice and if you’ve really satisfied all your desires; in return, if you were treated badly, leave “nada” and don’t say goodbye. The review is of L’Ami Louis: subtitled “absurd abundance,” which he summarizes as incredibly expensive for sublimely simple food.. He had the foie gras, roast chicken with their signature mountain of potatoes (that all the Americans there watched) and dessert. Tip? Yes. Lesson #48: The cost of everything! Here Simon details the costs of the place, the décor, the personnel, accessories, lawyers, commissions to credit card companies, etc (I’ll let you look up the figures if you’re interested, although both “Food Business” and “Burgundy Stars” do pretty much the same thing; they’re awesome. His review is of Le Tournesol: subtitled vengeance is a dish, where he liked the food, especially the desserts and service, but thought it lacked a bit of la “human touch” (English). Lesson #49: How to pass as a critic? “Really, you’re tempted?” It begins with the reservation: use a flowery bass voice, create a name for your fictitious publication, say you’re planning an article just about the restaurant and want to case it first, dress up, make sure you have all the accoutrements of the trade: phony business cards, club memberships, camera, little tape-recorder, etc. Take a pix of the chef, interview him, scribble incessantly, look over each platter as if it were a lab specimen, don’t drink too much (having ordered a magnum) and pay your bill. The review is of Tanjia, a restaurant and lounge-bar, where he argues it’s better to not be seen as a critic and be treated as a normal citizen; he had the carrot salad, pastilla and orange salad dessert with a trendy clientele but felt it was a slightly lackluster experience. Lesson #50: How to not be taken for a critic? It’s really not hard: don’t become an insider, don’t serve on awards’ juries, keep your distance and don’t allow yourself to be taken for a critic, that is, be normal, change your name to make reservations, always pay – and say goodbye leaving the restaurant. If you follow those rules you’ll sleep well….
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The week of September 6th, 2004 Wednesday, Le Figaroscope’s C’est nouveau resumed it’s regular publication after the summer with 5 reviews; they awarded 2 hearts each to Il Sardo and Mezzyana, which were both covered here last week after being reviewed in Zurban, as well as Le Murano, 13 bd. du Temple in the 3rd, 01.42.71.20.00, open only at dinner now. Métro : Filles-du-Calvaire. It’s a hotel restaurant costing about 80 E and serves foie gras with green tomato chutney, tataki of langoustines, veal with girolles and cream of pistachios with chocolate. They also gave one heart to Le Berthoud, 1, rue Valette in the 5th, 01.43.54.38.81 open every day but Saturday lunch and Sunday. Métro : Maubert-Mutualité and a broken heart to La Place, 5, place du Maréchal-Juin in the 17th. Le Figaroscope’s compendium, called the dossier, this week is devoted to desserts in mostly prominent restaurants: Natachef, Café Moderne, Flora, L’Angl’Opera, Les Magnolias, Toi, Café Panique and Spoon and frankly they sound and look great. In that vein, François Simon’s Haché Menu covered La Suite, 40, ave George-V in the 8th, 01.53.57.49.49. The chef trained with Pierre Hermé so the desserts here are reputedly very, very good. How he worked up a 179 E bill when he says you should get out for 100 E for 2 escaped me, but then as usual, he’s discussing food with words and phrases such as bazookas, Peugeot 404’s on the A6 and Darty bags and thus, usually he loses me. Sébastien Demorand in Zurban also hit Chiberta this week (see last week’s post for coordinates) reviewing it positively; as well as going back to Le Bamboche (coordinates in the guidebooks) where Claude Colliot (who replaced David Van Laer) has apparently left (for where?) but it continues to be pretty good, although some items on the menu sound pretty weird to me, e.g. “glace aux” oysters and “cappuccino” of lettuce with veal sweetbreads and herbs “folle” (re-sic + rrron pchii – I swear I’m not making it up) as well as a néo-bistro L’Alchimie, 34, rue Letillier in the 15th, 01.45.75.55.95, which sounds small, local and has a 20 E menu. NouvelObs also reviewed Chiberta see above, with a rather mixed review, from “brilliant” dishes to those that “don’t quite work.” L’Express’s J-L Petitrenaud covers La Ferme Randanne in Le Bourg (63210 – Aurières) which he thinks is very good. RestoaParis is promoting Vent d’Ouest, 69, rue des Dames in the 17th (Batignolles, Metro Rome), 01.45.22.03.03, an inventive place serving Breton food, e.g. bar, and its “coup de coeur“ is the Landaise restaurant Auberge et Compagnie, 23, rue Clauzel in the 9th (Metro Saint-Georges), 01.48.78.74.40, open M-F and Saturday evening; the menu-carte is 32E with beef from Sallers, Cahors wine, etc. Well, I swear I already covered these “Hot nights cool cuisine” places compiled by Julie and Tim Baker from Parisvoice but I cannot find them above, so here’s another list for a hot September day or next summer: Les Arts Café Moderne Goldenberg Wagram Ragueneau Ching n’Ling Zen Garden Atelier Renault FYI, the website has coordinates and reviews of restaurants as well as pretty up to date info on art shows, etc. October’s Food & Wine has two articles of interest to Francophiles: on p. 130 as part of a section on “Wine: new regions” it features wines from the Côtes de Castillon and on starting on page 236 an article on Languedoc, featuring wines, food and restaurants. Gayot.com lists “new and notable” restaurants but their dates of posting are not given, so I’ve edited out the older ones. The new list which has handy links to coordinates and reviews includes: Pinxo L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon La Suite DeVèz Seize au Seize Maison Rouge In September’s “Paris Bites” in Paris Notes, Rosa Jackson covers two restaurants either well-known or well-covered above: Le Dôme du Maris and Les Papilles, the latter being mentioned so often that I fear it will soon be impossible to get into. September’s Gourmet on page 66 had a list of restaurants in Cannes prepared by Alexander Lobrano (who says good restaurants are hard to find there). They are: Zplage, Le Moulin de Mougins, Restaurant des Jeux, Le Restaurant Arménian, Mantel, Jouni : Atelier du Gôut. And on page 134, Kristin Hohenadel quotes Naomi Watts and Glenn Close (it’s a Movie and Food issue after all) as raving about le left bank restaurant Côté Seine, turned into a cantine for the filming of Le Divorce. Louise Frégère, writing in the giveaway magazine Voyages d’Affaires featured two well-known places in its #86: L’Angle du Faubourg and Le Céladon.
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MobyP - what finally happened?
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Map - unless I missed it you never told us the final menu and its reception.
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I've got to believe you guys who love Le Pamphlet are right and I just had one of those odd bad experiences. Thanks, I'll put it back on the try again list.
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Hi, when in the US I live in Baltimore despite my French base and I think Petit Louis is the most overhyped, overrated place in town (I used to live two blocks away, so it was potentially my neighborhood place). They're also snotty: when I called to make a reservation, they said "We're a French bisto we don't take reservations." They've obviously never been to France. Charleston is OK if you've money to burn. My advice: stick to DC, things are happening there, Baltimore is where DC was 20 years ago.
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You know I hate to say this, but Bux isn't listening now, so I will - but thinking about his posts over the past year, there's nothing that doesn't send him off on a reverie: go with your strengths and the product (I had great Mossiac greengage plums in Paris last week) and the Times had an article on them September 1st. Wish I were there.
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Actually, it doesn't surprise me. I've had bad service and inadequate dishes there too (though never a wine trick like that) and indeed swore off it until P. Wells wrote that she goes back every year so I said, OK let's try it again; I suppose I keep going because the dingyness is kind of charming and usually the food is zesty, albeit heavy.