John Talbott

Bux I swear I was just walking by it two weeks ago on my way to the "Where" office and it looked OK. And the Eat in Paris site lists it actively.

I've generally defended the brasseries in the Flo chain, but I wonder if I'd feel the same way without the wonderful interiors they've preserved all over Paris. As for "a Maxim's," I wonder what the appeal might be. Is there still a Maxim's in Paris and is the one at the airport in any way connected with a Maxim's that was ever connected with fine food. I believe the name's been traded and sold, perhaps more than once, and the last Maxim's in Paris brought no gastronomic credit to the name. I think I'd be scared away from an airport restaurant trading on that old name perhaps too recognizable to tourists. ← You bet there is and right next door on the Rue Royale there's a shop selling all sorts of Maxim tchotchkes. What the corporate relationship between the airport (there's also one at Orly) Maxim's & downtown I don't know.

I hope I didn't mislead you; I checked in the Michelin and Pages Jaunes pages and it appears to be the same number, which is not unusual (I have a "splitter" for my phone and fax).

Yes both Pruniers are in existance. The one on Rue Duphot went through a transition from Prunier (since 1890) to Goumard Prunier (1980's) to Goumard, its current name. When last visited it was still good, with a 40 Euro menu for lunch (astronomically higher for dinner) which sadly no longer includes water, wine and coffee which made it a superbargain for such fine fish. There was also Prunier Traktir in the 16th, which is now Prunier, bought by Pierre Berge of YSL fame. I've known no one whose eaten there lately.

Bof! Tough question. The only places that qualify that I've tried are La Fermette Marbeuf 1900 which is not really a bistrot any more but an historic monument to food of a bygone era, La Mascotte, which is solidly bistroique, and Chez Catherine which sure used to be but is farther away from the CE/Cinq corner and no longer a bistrot at all but star-gazing. Bistrots and George V are not words I usually associate with each other. I'd say La Mascotte's your best shot at 270, rue du Faubourg-St-Honore, 01.42.27.75.26

I have no idea; I'm just a consumer. Maybe somebody else reading this thread will know.

04.90.54.32.70

For the record in future years: David Rosengarten’s November 22, 2004 Report (to subscribe click here) gives some New Year’s eve suggestions: Le Cinq for $800, three stars Taillevent for $325, three stars le Pre Catalan for $500, two stars, or the no-starred: Allard for $160 L’Angle du Faubourg for $150 L’Avant Gout Bofinger Le Dome for $125 Market between $125-180 Les Ministries for $150

Ah, the "Gotcha! Gang" got me. Yes, last week's Digest reported accurately that it was 3 hearts. Sorry, I'll edit to correct.

The week of November 29th, 2004 François Simon’s “Tables d’Affaires” in Monday’s Figaro Entreprises reviewed the established Willi’s Wine Bar from the standpoint, as usual, of a business-person; thus one can get in and out in under an hour and have the 3-antipasti formula at 12 euros; his decision is a bit split, 2/5 for the welcome and food; 3/5 for the price-quality and atmosphere. The regular menu had roast cod with an eggplant “marmalade” and duck with fresh figs. Tuesday, in the Metro (at least my Metro) came A Nous Paris with 3/5 blocks awarded to two hot places right now: Le Café Guitry and La Table Lauriston, coordinates in prior posts. {Questions: How does the Guitry do both pre-theater quickies and regular “bistrot” stuff? And how can they manage a price (25 E) of the formula at the Lauriston, unless it’s one of those forced choices of crudities/terrine and salmon/chicken - with wines beginning at 45 E to make up; Answers: in my post (9 New…..” yesterday.} Wednesday Figaroscope’s “C’est nouveau” featured two restaurants at 2-hearts each; Le Roland {i.e. Roland Garros}, 2 bis av Gordon-Bennett in the 16th, 01.47.43.49.56 where the famed chef Marc Veyrat’s recipes are used, with a tariff of 60 Euros à la carte, no menus, open all the time except Sunday dinner; and Les Coteaux in St-Mandé, coordinates above, which offers classic “3rd Republic” fare. Rated with one heart were: the Boucherie Roulière, 24, rue des Canettes in the 6th, 01.43.26.25.70, serving largely meat, e.g. a côte de boeuf, closed Mondays, à la carte about 35 Euros; Elamar, 38, rue Jacob in the 6th, 01.49.26.03.34, a North-African place running you about 25 Euros; and Fine’s a “restaurant-sandwich shop-gallery” in the 8th. In their “Dossier” the Figaroscope equipe covers “Hot Chocolate” places where you also get pastries and other nummies, of course. The list, with their usual pluses and minuses, is: Jean-Paul Hévin Ladurée Dalloyau Café Lenôtre La Maison du Chocolat Christian Constant the chocolate one not the chef, L’Heure Gourmande Les Cakes de Bertrand L’Artisan des Saveurs Au Pain Quotidien Kayser, not forgetting: Aux Deux Magots Rose Thé Cacao et Chocolat. In that line, François Simon had a hot chocolate and the house special, a Mont-Blanc for 12.40 Euros, which he felt was a good buy, at Angelina, 226, rue de Rivoli in the 1st. Figaroscope’s “Quartier” this week covered the Vavin district in the 6th and mentioned: Le Timbre Eb’n Lodge Mercerie Mullot Wadja Parc aux Cerfs Dominique Sébastien Demorand, in this week’s Zurban devoted his major review to Le Boeuf Gros Sel, 120, rue des Grands-Champs in the 20th, 01.43.73.96.58, which is, as the name suggests, a carnivore’s delight; beef stew, steak and frites but also replete with traditional (pre GaultMillau) dishes, e.g. terrines, rillettes, herring, chocolate mousse, etc., closed Sundays and Mondays; menus=11 E at lunch and 22 E at dinner. His smaller reviews covered: La Table Lauriston, coordinates given above, a place that he, as with the reviewers from the other publications, loved; Pierre, 10, rue de la Bourse in the 2nd, {Note; it is neither Pierre au Palais-Royal (Arabian’s place) in the 1st nor Pierre a la Fontaine Gaillon (Depardieu’s place) in the 2nd} which features colorful chairs, wines from all over the world and salads and cold-cuts, of which the Italian ones are good; they’re closed Sundays and have formulas at 13,50 E and 18 E and brunch for 19E on Saturday; L’Ampère, already mentioned here, where Phillipe Detourbe has made his comeback. Where magazine’s Alexander Lobrano featured several places: Le Carré des Feuillants where Alain Dutournier has presided for quite a while; three places (also around for a while) for game: Le Petit Colombier Le Repaire de Cartouche Le Petit Marguery; two revived brasseries: Brasserie Lorraine Brasserie Stella; and his list of “old-fashioned” bistrots: Allard L’Alsaco L’Ambassade d’Auvergne La Baracane Au Saint Pourcain D’Chez Eux {in the 7th, not to be confused with plain Chez Eux in the 17th} Aux Lyonnais La Poule au Pot Le Repaire de Cartouche À la Tour Monthléry Au Trou Gascon La Truffière Le Vieux Bistro. My downstairs (eGullet) neighbors shared with me a new food magazine: Régal, whose first issue (Nov-Dec) has mainly recipes, etc., but one Paris restaurant: L’Ami Marcel, a much raved-about place this fall whose coordinates can be found above. This month’s “Secrets of Paris,” written by Heather Stimmler-Hall has a section entitled “Dining Out: The Bad, the Good, the Excellent” in which she reviews the following, the first two of which seem totally unknown by the food guides: La Commerce Brasserie at Les Halles which was bad, Le Carpé Diem Café, on the Rue des Halles, which was “excellent,” and Le Bistrot Papillon, 6, rue Papillon in the 9th, 01.47.70.90.03, an “old-fashioned French restaurant” which was good - where she actually had ostrich on Thanksgiving; it’s open weekdays for lunch plus Saturday nights and has a menu at 27 Euros; a la carte is about 30 Euros.

Lauriston, 129, rue Lauriston in the deepest 16th, 01.47.27.00.07 is one of those places that has recently been written up by everyone and very well. I decided to see what was up, despite its à la carte prices, which exceed my budget, by trying the 25 Euro menu. I had my hesitations, the resto the chef, Serge Barbey, came from, Le Soleil in St Ouen, had given me mixed experiences but he was not the sole chef there. Well, the critics were all right, darn it; it’s bright, new but classical cooking. On the menu, starters included sardines (which I had) and a spinach salad with cheese shards, mains were red tuna and an unusual cassolette prepared with lentils (delicious). Other starters ran from langoustines to foie gras from 10-20 Euros and other mains ranged from biche to St Pierre running from 20-30 Euros and desserts were 7.5-10 Euros; I had the “giant” Baba and it was enormous. They had 46 ml of wine “pots” for 13 Euros, so one is able to get out with wine and coffee for just under 50 Euros. This is a definite repeat and not just because the chef is charming and has a good sense of humor – he turns out very fine food, all alone in the kitchen, save one jack-of-all-trades helper, in a typical, tiny space, but he supplies the 28 covers promptly. This stop in the 16th won’t last long before he’s lured downtown. The only downside; no ventilation. Even without the French critics, though, one can strike it rich. Rosa Jackson in last month’s Paris Notes waxed rhapsodic about the food, and especially vegetables, at Pétrelle, 34, rue Pétrelle in the 9th, 01.42.82.11.02, which has been there 10 years, (totally un-noticed), and Boy was she right. We called for a lunch reservation and the chef, Jean-Luc André, told us he was no longer serving lunch there but had opened a new place called Les Vivres, a door or two down at #28, which he’s designed for businesspeople who nowadays eat lunch late and on the fly, open from noon to something like 5 PM, with takeout and a few tables and an chalkboard with things like salmon quiche; I must have sounded hurt and stunned because he said he himself would feed us at Pétrelle and he did. It’s a funky, idiosyncratic place with dynamite food; I had the menu du marché of a soft-boiled egg in a divine creamy sauce with very tasty veggies and salad; rabbit with thyme and veggies and great fried potatoes and a terrific apple thing with marinated plums; Colette had partridge with mushrooms, veggies and the fried potatoes, followed by chocolate with a crème anglaise; it’s unfair to relate the bill (85 Euros) because after that day the 25 E menu for lunch was history and the meal will cost more like 60 E. But it was great while it lasted. Another winner was La Cuisine, 14, bd de La Tour-Maubourg in the 7th 01.44.18.36.32, which recently got 3/5 blocks from A Nous Paris and 3/4 hearts from Figaroscope. I found it to be an elegant restaurant producing very good food at a reasonable price (29 Euro menu at lunch) which almost over-reached by bringing out the sort of too-many-coursed meal I associate with Pierre Gagniere + Boulay. They had three starters: a terrine of beef, sauteed rouget and a soup of green cabbage and a succulent scallop that I loved; 4 mains: ray, salmon, confited veal and a breast of guinea fowl with balsamic sauce that was good; and about 5 desserts, I had the tasty cold top/hot bottomed chocolate tower. My bill was 45.50 Euros, but be warned, at night they only have a 42 and 110 Euro menu and a la carte runs 60 Euros, without wine or coffee, both of which I had. Additional points go for very good bread and not one smoker. Le Café Guitry, in the Edouard VIIth theater, located in the Place at the end of the pedestrian shopping street of the same name (Edouard VII) in the 9th, 01.40.07.00.77 has also gotten a lot of good press. It is in the category of “if you’re in the mood for this genre, do go” restaurants and is open every day for lunch but only Tuesdays-Saturdays for dinner. The formula (1st and main) is 24 E and menu (all 3) is 29 Euros. What do I mean by this genre? It’s a modern café, situated in a wonderful theater, has red velvet chairs and theater posters and photos, and attracts a mixed clientele: very art, very business and very “beautiful.” I liked the food; there were lots of choices (6 each of 1sts, mains & desserts on the menu alone); both very French and fusion/world/magrebian and I had good sushi-quality raw tuna, veal tagine with a confited citron sauce and crème brulèe which, with wine and coffee, was 43 Euros. Plus, they listed where they got their products, e.g. cheese from Marie Cantal. Smoking arrangements are like they were on Japanese airplanes, the non-smokers along one wall, smokers in the middle and other wall. The waitstaff are cross-trained and very efficient for 60 some covers and most pleasant. They were completely full; they’d warned me to reserve. I also had a good meal at Frugier, 137, av de Versailles in the 16th, 01.46.47.72.00, closed Sundays and Mondays. It’s the sort of place; “way-to-hell-and-gone” and inventive, a bit of a sleeper and not terribly crowded, that could either blossom and go the downtown way of Eric Frechon + Les Ormes or die like Au Pactole + Chez Tony. There’s lots to choose from on the chalkboard (1sts=carpaccio of salmon, ‘bonbons” of escargots, oysters and soft egg with smoked salmon; 2nds=included red tuna, haddock, blanquette of veal and squab, desserts=cheese, clementines, choux a la crème and crème brulee - but I had a nice packet of shrimp and green cabbage with a creamy lemon sauce, followed by a steak tartare and a sort of moelleux chocolate; the cost: 42 Euros (menu=29 E and wines run from 5 E a glass to 19-39 E a bottle). Will you or I schlep out there again? Le Voltigeur, 55, rue Ramey in the 18th (Metro Jules Joffrin), 01.42.54.94.36, open everyday but Sundays, was “discovered,” as best I can tell, last year by Sébastian Demorand in Zurban. He called it a farm-inn and it is another dingy, countryish place; their card calls it a Bistrot à vin but in the back is a full-fledged restaurant. However, despite its being but a few meters from home, I somehow never went until last week and what a find! Three of us ate very well indeed for 138 Euros. The best starter was the herring with perfectly cooked and just warm enough potatoes and all three entries: cassolette, venison stew and stuffed cabbage were more than correct and proper. The desserts, nougat glace, chocolate and fresh fruit were surprisingly good for a local place and their wine selection (largely Southwest) and price were good. A certain repeat for me; but will others schlep over to the other side of Montmartre? We’ll see. Now, the venerable Marty has been around for a million years but has undergone a renewal and rediscovery by Zurban among others, recently. We went to satisfy our oyster and biche craving and it was just dandy. Friends dragged me to another place, this one “discovered” by R.W. (Johnnie) Apple of the New York Times. They dragged me because I’d never met a pot au feu I loved but I have to admit that Le Pot au Feu in the 15th does it right and it hit the spot and the bill was soft = 106 Euros/2. I have long believed, as a scientist, that genes trumped the advice of friends, mentors and food writers, not to mention nurture, education and experience; and that because, a few centuries ago, an ancestor of mine got into a silly, small boat in Normandy with a few other similarly bizarrely-clad folks with lots of spears, conquering England and then coming back to France, that I had a leg up in finding good restaurants in France. Nope! Example: L’Estrapade, 15, rue de l’ Estrapade in the 5th, 01.43.25.72.58, closed weekends. I leapt to reserve when I read Lebey and Pudlo’s 2005 descriptions; I mean, here could be found a delightful welcome, traditional food and but 18 covers. Yes, but…. (ou mais, oui….); all the above is true, plus I was the only person there whose permanent address was not 75xxx, and the lentilles and sausage, rabbit leg with chanterelles and trumpets of death was moist and tasty and fruit dessert were all good, but there were issues: 1. Colette would not find anything she could justify as good to her cardiologue or Barry Sears, 2. The tables were so packed together as to prompt constant bumping and 3. There was not a lot to distinguish it from 40 other ancien style restos in Paris. 43.50 Euros/1 Le P’tit Bougnat 118, bd de Courcelles in the 17th, 01.47.63.97.11, open everyday but Sundays, is an example of a strange phenomenon - a well-established and somewhat dingy looking place that frequently appears on lists of (game) places each fall, but which, until it was reviewed in Le Monde by Jean-Claude Ribaut and the 2005 Pudlo came out, appeared in none of the food guides I buy. (This may be explained by the difference between our two meals; the first of which was great, the second off.) They had any type of game you wish: biche, chevreuil, lievre, sanglier, birds, etc. Both times, we started with sautéed cepes which the first time were not too buttery and retained their firmness as well as a salad; then biche and chevreuil, again, the first time done properly; bloody, tender and tasty. For dessert we shared a cheese and crème brulèe and had a nice Irancy. The second time, the game was not as great and the cepes overcooked and neither crunchy nor firm. Both times it was 100 Euros/2. And then, mediocrity struck again at Les Coteaux in St-Mandé, a place touted both in Zurban + Figaroscope. Colette had a bland artichoke and shrimp salad followed by a cod with flavorful veggies; I indulged in a pig’s ear with salad and then andouillette; both of which were OK but not dazzling by Lyonnais standards; the Beaujolais Villages (one of dozens they have) and marc de bourgogne, were the highlights of the meal. The bill was 78.40 Euros. Edited 12/5/04 10:34 by John Talbott to reflect correct Figaroscope rating of La Cuisine

Game update Some new news in the game front At least on the days I went: Le Regalade had flying things; partridge, pigeon, etc but no hoofed meat; La Cerisaie featured wild duck, pigeon, lievre, stewed wild boar and duck breast Pétrelle had civet de sanglier and perdreau Le Temps au Temps had civet de biche and papillote de biche Le Voltigeur had stewed venison Marty, La Cuisine + Lauriston had biche Le P’tit Bougnat had it all

I've been in Paris Januarys for years and everything above is true; it can be bitter cold, drizzly, grey but there'll always be a nice sunny warmish day and it's rare that the flakes of snow that occasionally fall ever stick. Markets are open, but supermarkets sometimes provide refuge from the chill. I agree with Bux, where else to be? Layer up, expect the worst and you'll have a ball.

OK, here's the deal; I've researched it a lot over the years and you either eat in town (35-40 min) or at the Sheraton where there's a branch of the Brasserie Flo open 7/7 lunch and dinner (but I had a disappointing meal two years ago, even tho I ordered defensively) or their top resto - Les Etoiles which is much but not incredibly much better; it's closed weekends but that doesn't apply to you. There are towns (eg Roissy) around but I've scouted around to find a place without success. Indeed between Paris and Beauvais & Amiens things are pretty slim. About hotels in France, they're not like elsewhere, often the best restos in France are in hotels, Paris being the prime example - Crillion, Cinq, Bristol, etc etc, so that's not the issue. Hope you got this in time, give us a bit more lead time next trip. Cheers.

The only place where I’ve seen a December 31st menu was today at Frugier, 137, ave de Versailles in the 16th, 01.46.47.72.00; it was 57 Euros and looked pretty good; it had smoked salmon, a tartare of scallops, a crepinette of quail off the bone, filet of beef with foie gras, cheese and an individual buche de Noel. I had a good lunch there; Figaro + A Nous Paris give it 2/4 and 3/5 respectively; so despite the distance, maybe this is an option for you. It's small (20-25 covers), all French, very local and brand new but it's a bit out of the center but in a very nice neighborhood.

Again, my plea: Please buy these guides from your friendly local bookshop and use this summary as a prod to do so; they cost only 29 E and 5,70 E respectively and give more details than I can. In general: the GaultMillau has stopped indicating new restaurants and Les Cantines de Julie Andrieu, not only does not list new restaurants (she gets a “bye” this year because it’s her first edition) but gives no grades, numbers, stars, hearts, etc., so it’s interesting if you’re looking for “simplicity, conviviality, intimacy and new tastes” in places (bistros, brasseries, restaurants, etc) she calls ‘cantines” but not for comparing her opinions with others. Therefore, I’ll only deal with the 2005 GM here. Rules: in the GaultMillau, I’ll not list every restaurant but rather only those in Paros and surrounds that are listed as in some way as notable, noting: Rating 10-20/20 ♥ = coup de coeur 1st – L’Atelier Berger 14 ♥ 4th – Le Coude Fou 11♥ 5th – Les Papilles 12 ♥ 6th – Ze Kitchen Galerie 14 ♥ 7th – D’Chez Eux 13 ♥ 8th – La Table du Lancaster 16 ♥ Chez Catherine 14 ♥ L’Evasion 13 ♥ 9th – Dell’Orto 15 ♥ 13th – L’Ourcine 13 ♥ 14th – Le Regalade 15 ♥ 15th – De Lagarde 13 ♥ 16th – L’Astrance 19 ♥ Cook of the Year 17th – Caius 14 ♥ La Table de Lucculus 14 ♥ L’Entregeu 13 ♥ 18th – La Famille 13 ♥ Chez Grisette 12 ♥ 20th – Le Baratin 12 ♥ 91st – Le Coq Hardi in Corbeil Essonnes 12 ♥ 92nd – La Cosse des Petits Pois in Clamart 12 ♥ Les Etangs de Corot in Ville D’Avray 13 ♥

For Camdeborde watchers: this morning's Metro gave a big more info than Felice had posted in her Food Events thread about Yves Cambdebord's temporary restaurant which is located this week in a butcher shop turned resto - Christophe Dru, 20, rue d'Aligre in the 12th. He'll start serving at 9 PM each evening and he'll serve things such as raviolis of daube of beef and souris of confited lamb. One must reserve, and as Felice indicates, it's here.

The Week of November 21st, 2004 Monday, back on the track, François Simon reviewed in “Tables d’affaires” in Le Figaro Entreprises the Café Guitry, 10, place Édouard-VII in the 9th, (it’s in the Édouard-VII theater), already mentioned in prior posts. He calls it a clever bistrot serving a fish tartare, scallops with lime and veal tagine with formulas at 24 and 29 Euros. Its open for lunch everyday but evenings from Tuesday to Saturday only when there’s a play on in the theatre it’s within. He gives it 3/5 for both cuisine and quality-price ratio. {Interesting, because his colleague, Emmanuel Rubin, gave it only 2/5 hearts 13 October} Tuesday, A Nous Paris had one review by Jérôme Berger of a French place, the Boucherie Roulière, 24, rue des Canettes in the 6th, 01.43.26.25.70, closed only on Mondays, à la carte about 40 E. Although he talks of its abundance of grilled beef, he also mentions a terrine of queue de boeuf with a salad “fatiguée,” grilled veal kidneys and crumble, clafoutis, fruit desserts. He awards it 3/5 boxes; as does Philippe Toinard of a resto called Le Curieux Spaghetti Bar. Wednesday, Figaroscope’s “C’est nouveau” gave three hearts to La Cuisine, the restaurant A Nous Paris reviewed so favorably last week, saying the chef brings exciting new ideas (e.g. langoustines with thyme, rabbit stuffed with veal sweetbreads) to it; they also gave 2 hearts each to: Bon which has 2 new owners (ex of the Villa Barclay and Flora Danica in the Maison du Danemark and a new chef (ex of Gaya); the reviewers almost suggest that despite the resto’s sometimes poor cooking, it does give one a good excuse to see a remarkable décor, {Am I wrong in thinking that this several years-old, branché, Starck-designed place, has struggled to find its proper niche?} Aux Marches du Palais, 5, rue de la Manutention in the 16th, 01.47.23.52.80, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, formula at 18 E and 30 E à la carte, which they term a retro-bistrot serving boudin-purée, “perfect” leeks, and a parmentier of duck, and Le Petit Champenois, 6, rue Fourcade in the 15th, 01.48.28.67.93, also closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with formulas at 14.50 E at lunch, and 17E; à la carte = 25 E, serving cassoulets, parmentiers and other “terrien” {untranslatable} dishes. Finally, they gave a single heart to the interestingly named Fin’s Herb a fast food place in the Marché-St-Honoré. Figaroscope’s “Dossier” covers seafood in: Brasseries: Brasserie Lorraine Le Congrés La Coupole Chez Flottes 100% Seafood: Uitr L’Huîtrier 6 à Huîtres L’Ecailler du Bistrot On the fly: F. Landeau L’Ecume St-Honoré Not forgetting: Café de la Paix Wepler Ballon et coquillages Le Chasse-Marée Le Parc à Huîtres Le Bar à Huîtres François Simon’s “Haché Menu” covered the Brasserie Lutetia, which I’ll cut to the chase on, by saying when asking “Should one go?,” he says “Only if you’re in the neighborhood with no idea of where to go.” Sébastien Demorand of Zurban wrote a “two-fer” review of L’Osteria + L’Osteria dell’anima in his big review and his usual three small ones of a tapas, etc. place: Gusto, the well-known Hiramatsu and one French place, a bistrot-cave called Le Casier à vin, 51-53, rue Olivier-de-Serres in the 15th, 01.45.33.36.80, with wines from all over the planet, cheese, charcuteries, etc. Thursday, the freebie ParuVendu listed 10 top restaurants that cost less than 100 Euros; they were: Le Meurice Le Cinq Pinxo Le Chiberta Jacques Cagna Café Moderne Le Pavillion des Princes Le Grand Véfour Le Carré des Feuillants Lucas Carton In the “Goûts” section of Le Monde Thursday-Friday, Jean-Claude Ribaut reported on the appearance of the first wave of 2005 food guides; e.g. GaultMillau, Bottin, Peugeot, Cantines de Julie + Lebey. This edition of the GaultMillau, costs 29 Euros and introduces 250 places categorized as “BEB:” bistrots, ethnic and trendy; other Paris news: Pascal Barbot of l’Astrance is chef of the year, l'Ambroisie was dinged but les Ambassadeurs at the Crillon, went up. A new guide is the Cantines de Julie , at 6 Euros, with 250 places ranging from the “less classy to reasonably priced.” Sunday, in the JDD “Version Femina,” Astrid De T’Serclaes reviews two established places: the Bistot de Marius, off shoot of Marius & Janette and another branch of the fresh-product, fast-food Cojean, this one in the 8th. In JDD’s “Gastronomie” they present another interview with a prominent chef, this week – Christian Constant - he of Le Violin d’Ingres, Fables of Fontaine + Café Constant. They also write up his favorite restos: L’Ami Jean, Chez Michel + La Cave de l’Os à Moelle. Catching up, November 13/14 in the weekend FT, Sheryle Bagwell wrote glowingly about an Aussie chef, one of the few Anglo-Saxons with a Michelin star (and the coup de coeur in the 2004 GaultMillau), William Page at Le Lièvre Gourmand in Vailly-sur-Sauldre in the Loire, 2 hours from Paris. Rosa Jackson, writing in November’s “Paris Bites” in Paris Notes, reviews Le Régalade, post-Camdebord, and found it a bit wanting, but still says it’s in her top 10 bistros, especially with its 30 Euro menu and Le Table du Lancaster which she loved, noting that it’s cuisine and 70 Euro bill per person (without wine) was in a different league. November’s Saveurs promised on its cover to give reviews of 40 restaurants and indeed it has ample sections on Iranian, Brazilian, Mauritian, Japanese and Polish places. In its “Restaurants of the Month” though, it covers several established places with new chefs that have been reviewed by the sections authors (Pudlowski, André and Noce) in their familiar venues. They are: La Méditerranée where the rooms have been renovated and a new chef, Denis Rippa, was engaged, Le Bistrot Côté Mer, post departure of Caroline Rostang, which sounds like it has retained much the same menu and quality (good) as before under its new chef Jean-Pierre Abatane, l’Amphycles ditto, under Robuchon-protégé Philippe Groult, Le Man Ray, taken over in September by Marc Marchand and Jérémy Normand, Il Sardo now in the 16th, Chez Pierre for sometime under David Frémondière’s hand, Al Dente, another Italian restaurant, Le Cambodge, a Cambodian place at 10, ave Richerand in the 10th and the Café Loom, 142, rue des Rosiers in St Ouen, 01.40.10.04.26 with chef Laurent Le Guernic, ex of Ladurée assisted by a Sri Lankan gifted using spices; the one truly new sounding place, with menus at 22-26 Euros, closed Tuesdays, ergo open when the flea market rocks, , especially the weekends. Edited by John Talbott 10h05, same day to correct two errors in typing.

Sébastien Demorand of Zurban wrote an article in #222 on “Smoking – No Smoking” in which he says that while the Law Evin of 1991-1992, prohibiting smoking in public places is thought by 70% citizens to apply to restaurants, it is often more honored in the breach. As examples, he says at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, it’s forbidden, but at Ploum it’s no smoking only before 1:30 PM for lunch and 9:30 PM for dinner, whereas at le Bistrot du Sommelier, they tell you there are no places but in smoking; and L’Ami Jean ’s chef, a nonsmoker, is reluctant to discourage it, yet at Les Deux Canards, it’s been forbidden since 1984, largely due to the wife of the patron’s allergy to it; finally, at the Table de Lucullus, the host, who’s posted amusing signs about not smoking, allows a cigarette after eating. Go figure! However, Demorand lists the following in addition to a longer list available at the web site for Pure Air: Frascati Napoli Food Le Petit Vatel Le Salon de Hélène Delicabar Chez Germaine Le Florimond La Table du Lancaster Sale e Pepe La Table de Hélène Sushiya

Sébastien Demorand of Zurban also wrote a story on “Cook-Dating” chez Fréderic Chesneau in #222.

1. As an American in Paris, I can say I try each new bakery's bread as it opens and/or comes under a new owner because there is an enormous difference between Auchan industrial bread and artisanal bread. 2. As for Monoprix, mine makes its own, by that I mean bakes it, probably the dough is delivered by the gallon, and one of their breads is edible. 3. Boy, I'm pretty good about handwashing, but handling bread and other products has never bothered me.

Not me, but I'm hardly ever in restos that would serve them

I feel most unable to help; we never go out New Year's Eve here. But since no one has plunged in, I'll give a try. If you're here a few days before, you can either telephone or cruise by places (eg bistrots) that interest you and see what the Saint Sylvestre menu looks like. But I doubt you'll not be staggered by the prices. I guess if I were forced to go out, I'd go to one of the good food but crumby looking places in my quartier (the 18th) or other more adventuresome ones (eg 9, 10, 11, 12, 19, 20) assiduously avoiding the 4th-8th and 16-17th arrondissements (I hope I haven't offended inhabitants of those fine quartiers). What's wrong with picking up some salmon, foie gras, caviar, champagne or whatever you like New Year's Eve at Bon Marche/Grand Epicerie or Gal Lafayette/Petrossian/etc. and eating where you're staying?

You'd better reserve for Regalade and La Cerisaie days before and the Maison du Jardin, Ze Kitchen Galerie, Reminet and Bon Acceuil at least in the AM. For Café Constant you have to be there practically at 12 noon sharp. For the rest, you'll probably be able to drop in (but I always reserve; two lunches this week, they've turned people away) 1. Take a look at my recent post on 2005 Food Guides, I only listed new ones in the 8th Apicius P ∕∕ ∕∕ ∕∕ ∕∕ ◘◘ (Lebey listed it in 2004 Guide so it’s not new to him) Atelier Renault P ∕∕ Comptoir de Thiou L P ∕∕ ∕∕ but a broken ◘ Copenhague L Drugstore Publicis Champs-Élysées L Évasion, 7, place Saint-Augustin, 01.45.22.66.20 L Fromages &Affinités, 58, rue des Mathurins, 01.40.06.96.18 P ∕∕ Ginger, 11, rue de la Trémoille, 01.47.23.37.32 L Kaïten Libre Sens, 33, rue Marbeuf, 01.53.96.00.72 P ∕∕ ∕∕ La Maison Scandinave P ∕∕ ∕∕ Marcel, Drugstore Publicis, 133 ave des Champs-Élysées, 01.44.43.66.63 L Д La Poêle D’Or, 37, rue de Miromesnil, 01.42.65.78.60 P ∕∕ ∕∕ ◘ Pomze P ∕∕ Le P’tit Bouco, 17, rue de Constantinople, 01.44.70.00.72 P ∕∕ ¢ Royal Madeleine, 11, rue du Chavalier-St-George, 01.42.60.14.36 L P ∕∕ Le Safran L Table du Lancaster L P ∕∕ ∕∕ ◘ Terre de Truffes P ∕∕ Zen Garden P ∕∕ ∕∕ but the guides give many more 2. As for Leon, yes I've been, but you can do so much better, unless moules and frites is an itch that must be scratched.

Thanks to markk's suggestion a few months ago, I too have used alapage.com and found it very efficient for sending books to the US; I've also used amazon.fr when ordering here and they too a very efficient.