John Talbott

Never been in, but it looks appealing from the street.

I'm from New York and remember Gimbel's, but I still don't know what you mean. ← Monday the WSJ-Europe ran an article so like the NYT's today, which was so like the IHT last week that it reminded me of Macy and Gimbels' competition. Sorry for the obtuseness.

It’s Macy’s and Gimbels time all over again. In today’s New York Times, Elaine Sciolino has an article called “Whose Stars are they anyway” which repeats the Senderens/Gaertner story as well as Jean-Luc Naret’s repeated insistence that Michelin owns the stars. New to me (or at the least, demonstrating failed memory time), Maxim’s tried the same thing (successfully) in 1977.

In today’s New York Times Kim Severson wrote an article entitled “At Last France Embraces the Vegetable" which mentions Arpege + Vegetable at Printemps (now closed, that is, the resto not the department store).

Well, the New York Times has finally discovered Gilles Pudlowski in an article by Frank Prial in today’s Dining section entitled “The Anti-Michelin: Caution and Anonymity Not Required”?. Revelations: the (small) size of his publication run, the few places he can review himself, his personal life and his blasé attitude about taking free meals. Otherwise not much new. Which is not to say it's not a complimentary, nice and informative article.

Well, certainly she can play on the sidewalk but it's narrow and with tables in the summer not great (not like the Bd St-Germain outside the Bistrot Cote Mer where kids can jump rope, cavort, etc.; but don't go there now).

FYI - the Wall St Journal Europe had an article yesterday entitled "Michelin Faces a Kitchen Revolt." Nothing really new here and appears to be a reprint of the article in the main WSJ June 10th.

The Week of June 6th, 2005 Alexander Lobrano, in June’s Where, had a nice list of currently “hot” Paris bistros and since their coordinates have already been given, I’ll just list them: La Cerisaie, Les Papilles, L’Ami Marcel, L’Ourcine, Le Mesturet, Le Marsangy, Le Temps au Temps, + Au Vieux Chene. Said AL also gives two places for “[t]rendy dining:” Le Refectoire + Senso, four more for beef eaters: Meating, Le 5 Mars, Le Titi Parisien + Au Boeuf Couronne, and three for vegetarian food – La Ferme, Aquarius + Arpege. (Since I missed “digesting” May’s Where, I’ll tag Alexander Lobrano’s contributions on here: he mentions the opening of Beauvilliers in a mixed review, ie, superb pork but poor 1st and desserts; the 82nd year of the brasserie, Thoumieux; and late-dining opportunities to be found at eGullet favorite Chez Denise – La Tour Montlhery, La Poule au Pot and Music Hall). Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, an indication of the state of new French restos came when Philippe Toinard reviewed L’Orto a very Italian sounding place in St-Germain-en-Laye and Jean Aubry covered four wine bars in the 14th: La Treille d’Or, La Cave des Papilles, Balthazar + Les Crus du Soleil. Sebastien Demorand, in this week’s Zurban {inadvertently I must assume,} demonstrated the state of new French restaurants opening this spring. Of the four he reviewed, only one could be considered French, and that was La Tête dans le fromage, 20, rue de la Grange aux Belles in the 10th, 01.42.06 94 21, closed Mondays, with a luncheon formula at 11,50 a la carte about 15-20E; but their charcuterie is Spanish (from Donestia) and their pate is Corsican. The other three are all foreign: a Korean place Samiin in the 7th, a Japanese place, Ebis in the 1st, and a Lebanese restaurant Beyrouth, in the 11th. Also on Wednesday, in Figaroscope’s, “C’est nouveau,” Emmanuel Rubin reviewed five places, giving two hearts and the photo spread to the recently renovated but quite long-standing bistro near Drouot, A La Grange-Bateliere, 16, rue LaGrange-Bateliere in the 9th, 01.47.70.85.15, closed weekends, dinner for private parties, formulas 25 and 30, a la carte 50 E, serving brandade, cote de veau and seasonal red fruit. He also gave one heart to one French one with a smart British chef - Express Bar, 31 rue St-Maur in the 11th, 01.47.00.66.18, closed Sundays, serving a formula at 18.50 for lunch, a la carte 25-30 E, with such things as a spinach salad with goat cheese and veal’s liver as well as three one-hearts to two Italian places – La Strada, in the 4th and Subito, in the 1st, and one Japanese restaurant Higuma, in the 1st. The “Dossier” this week also concerned places serving red fruit in various forms: Trifle Hotel Costes Strawberries marinated with parsley Le Pre Verre Wild Strawberries Melba Berthillon Strawberry/Praline Tatelette l’Autobus Imperial Strawberries and Vacherin l’Affiche Panna cotta with red fruit Emporio Armani Caffe Cappuccino of strawberries Millesimes 62 Tarte sablee with red fruit Flora Tiramisu with red fruit Pavillon Elysee Lenotre Strawberries and raspberries, juice and sorbet Pierre au Palais-Royal And also: Pearl Chez A & M Maceo Terrasse Mirabeau Table du Lancaster In addition, there was a box of stores, etc selling prepared “creations” based on fruit written by Colette Monsat. It mentioned: Fauchon, Damman’s, Pierre Marcolini, Bioboa, Pierre Herme, Delmontel, Laduree and Dalloyau. In the same vein, Francois Simon went to the Gallery Lunch Baccarat, 11, pl des Etats-Unis in the 16th, 01.40.22.11.10, closed Sundays, no reservations, where he had a 12 E dessert of strawberries with a small glass of vodka. Should one go? Ans: For the setting. Wednesday-Thursday, Jean-Claude Ribaut in Le Monde reviewed the eponymous Pot Au Feu and on Thursday-Friday’s “Toques en Pointe” covered Chez les Anges, coordinates of the former in the guidebooks and the latter in prior posts. Friday, in the IHT, Patricia Wells covered three places where one can drink the nearby wine as well as dine: one very positively – Le Charlemagne in Pernand Vergelesses, one Olivier Leflaive Frères in Puligny-Montrachet;, where it sounds like the wine outranks the food, and the third, the Hostellerie de Levernois in Levernois, where the food lacked a lot. Saturday, Francois Simon’s “Croque Notes” in Le Figaro discusses his very positive reactions to Yves Camdeborde’s new resto Le Comptoir de l’hotel St-Germain as well as a new restaurant run by Christophe Leroy – Les Moulins de Rematuelle on the route des Plages - (he already runs several others everywhere from Marrakech to St-Tropez). Sunday, JDD’s Astrid de T’Cerclaes reviewed a group of fairly well-known foreign places in Paris. In addition, Aurelie Chaigneau featured the “affordable” restaurants chosen by Pascal Barbot of l’Astrance: La Rotisserie du Beaujolais + Le Banyan. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

As a matter of record, Francois Simon in Saturday's Le Figaro notes that weekends (I assume nights) there's a single dish.

M6, the French national TV channel that pioneered reality-TV here and did the series which was widely watched a few months ago, called “Oui, Chef,” on the young, ambitious and slightly annoying Cyril Lignac, who now runs Le Quinzième in Paris, has just begun what I suspect will become a new series on remaking marginally successful French restos. Tonight, it was devoted to the “extreme makeover” of two restaurants by a “team” consisting of Jean-Pierre Coffe (of book and TV fame); Christian Etchebest (a Christian Constant product, currently running what I consider a priceless troquet called Le Troquet) and Caroline Rostang (family connection clear; ex-patronne of the wonderful Bistrot Cote Mer and not so great l’Absinthe). Much shouting, lots of tears, incredible hard work, and of course, plaudits at the end of each section. It replays Thursday at 1:15; stay tuned! There will surely be more.

Well, I'm not sure it's the end of the war but today's Figaro reported that Jean-Paul Hevin got the prize for best macaron in Paris. ← Stunning. I guess originality in flavors is not being rewarded by Le Figaro. ← I just want to correct the impression I may have given that this was an award given by Le Figaro. It was reported in their equivalent of the NYTimes "bold names" in the print version, source not given (I tried to find out the source, unsucessfully). To my knowledge, except for the great pizza test-off several years ago, Le Figaro has not been known to do best-of type ratings (hearts, numbers, Dossiers, yes).

I hope I'm not wandering into marshy waters here but I think your point is the reason one turns to other sources (Gambero Rosso, Campsa, TimeOut, etc) outside France. On the other hand, as you also said, one can find interesting food at Bib Gourmands outside the main cities in, say, Spain.

Ah, problem here. I live in the 18th and things are pretty dismal foodwise. Beauvilliers has gotten good reviews (check Digest for this and other mentions) but is pricey; 2 pieces cuisine is my local dive, but it's not on the hill; I've tired of La Famille, altho others continue to love it; the Moulin de la Galette retains some charm and reasonable food and La Mascotte has the memories of the film (Fabulous Destin de Amelie Poulain....) and not bad food. Forget the top of the hill.Why stay in Montmartre? A few Metro stops away things get better. Just have him do some searching within the Forum for reasonable places - no one is more than 35 minutes away.

June’s New Restos: Comptoir x2, Vin de Soif, Casaluna, Griffionier, Arpent, Mon Marché, Rez-de-Chaussee, The Place Since I’ve already posted my thoughts on Yves Camdeborde’s new place, the Comptoir of the Relais St-Germain on a separate thread to be found here, I won’t double post but merely summarize that it was the best of June – and, and, folks, just as good at lunch (with plenty of choices) as at dinner when there are no choices but lots of dishes. This next place is why we come to Paris: Spring/Summer, cool (70-80), no pollution, no clouds, good food, nice people, enthusiastic, if not over-exuberant staff, great wines; where to go when you die? No choice. This would be just another super-nice, bistro of the quartier, were it not the 7th, where a lot of eGullet members and others, regularly find themselves. Vin de Soif, 24, rue Pierre-Leroux, 01.43.06.79.85, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, got itself well-reviewed weeks ago – two hearts in Figaroscope, “maximum respect” for the wines in Zurban. The chef and salle-man are both super-friendly, jokey and totally at ease - I suspect in their prior lives, they did not get beaten down in brutal stages in rigid kitchens. The place, while small (20 covers in the main room, 10 around and by the bar) is not sardined, and as opposed to most resto/wine bars, it doesn’t have the fungible (not fungible in origin but description) forced choices of platters of charcuteries and cheese – here, one has four 1sts, mains & desserts to chose from and a formula of 2 mains, 1sts and coffee for 12E – beat that. And a huge wine list of really interesting stuff (Cote du Tarns = 18 and 26 E, not bad!). I’ve had my knuckles rapped for referring to the amount of English in a place, but let’s be frank, isn’t it fun to hear the language of my ancient ancestors rather than others? And to be surrounded by folks who are (1) neighborhood dwellers or workers, (2) 1/3rd with ties, 1/3rd with polo shirts and 1/3rd with jeans, (3) 20’s-90 or maybe 95 years old and (4) where the red/white wine ratio is 10-1? OK - the food; first off, the bread was not industrial, it was fresh and warm, the wild salmon tartare was brisk and tasty, the shoulder of lamb was under-cooked inside, crispy on the outside (without asking, they knew how I love it) and served with wonderful beans, and the poire for dessert was super. 40 E. Go back; recommend? You bet. To respond to Lucy’s thread about missions in Paris: how about simply the newest, neatest, nicest niche? OK, this may not be the summum bonum, but it’ll do for June. Casaluna, 6, rue de Beaujolais (at the Northern tip of the Palais Royal gardens), 01.42.60.05.11, is a gem of a restaurant in several ways. It’s on a charming quiet street; it looks spectacular on entering (the cave-like appearance is real and intimate); and the table settings are incredibly beautiful (I immediately ran out soon to buy some of the fabric our hostess covered the tables with). So, when folks rave about the setting, the food is usually bad, right? Actually no. Let’s start with the only downer; their fabled salad of squid (hot). That day it was replaced by a salad of octopus on lola rossa (cold), but the waiter insisted it was equivalent, who knows?, it was very good anyway. Then rather than a main (but in truth, the ones passing me en route to other tables looked quite acceptable), I had an enormous platter of very slightly smoked charcuterie (also mentioned in all the reviews); simply the best such I’ve had here or in Corsica. I skipped dessert for the coffee with myrtle eau de vie, a good decision. Wine was 12 E for 50 cl; the bill 40.50 E. Since the Casa Corse closed, I’ve not had a Corsican rade; this is definitely it. I’m not necessarily listing these places in rank-order, but “sort-of.” Whoever (Simon, Rubin or Demorand) said Le Griffionnier, 8, Rue des Saussaies in the 8th, 01.42.65.17.17, was a cantine of the Ministry of the Interior (across the street) was spot-on; it’s filled with suits and ties (essentially the permanent government, except for the 6-8 folks lost in the Sarkosy-Villepin-Sarkosy shuffle), no smoking (until the journalists assigned to cover Sarko, deprived of tobacco for 3 hours, showed up), and in and out in prompt time. It’s a funny place; a real dark and dirty bistro in the 8th (of all places), largely serving charcuteries and beef, a few salads and their own wine (I had their Griffionnier St-Amour which was superb). It is packed, serious, but OK. Sorry for saying this, but there’s nothing spoken here but the mother-tongue. For a crowd of pretty thin, fit, ministry folks, they serve huge portions; the amuse gueule of sliced sausage (which a neighbor ordered a full portion of afterwards) was a lot; my garlic soup couldn’t be finished by two persons (and it cleverly wove its way between an homage to the Les Halles’ soups of yore without being too retro, too cheesy, too garlicky, or too bready); and my onglet with shallots was the only downer (as you know, the beef here is too often either tasty but tough or chewy but bland; this was tough and chewy,) but in a snub to Sears/Atkins/Montignac/etc., their sautéed potatoes were redeeming. For Colette, no fish or chicken, but several tempting looking salads. The bill was right in the 30-35 E range as advertised. Go back? In a flash if the Minister wants my advice. A friend invited me to go to L’Arpent {my trans: a bit of terroir}, 12, rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau in the 1st, {just far enough from Les Halles to be frequented only by Parisians, but near enough to the Louvre des Antiquaires to be convenient}, 01. 42.36.52.90, closed Sundays. It bills itself as a wine bar and restaurant, but while I’d agree with the former (wonderful and reasonable white and red wines; great charcuterie, esp the chorizo and sausage; fine cheese - St. Nectaire and camembert) – it’s really not the latter - the only hot prepared dish (sliced veal with pasta ears and tomato and black olive sauce) was dreadful. So if you need a break for lunch while at the big Louvre or Louvre des A’s – do go, but eat light. The bill, thankfully, my host picked it up, saving me any annoyance. Mon Marché, 31, rue Guillaume Tell in the 17th, 01.43.80.04.73, calls itself an epicerie fine, wine bar and restaurant, which is accurate and it was packed the day I was there, which probably accounts for the interminable wait between courses. It’s a bit out of the way but its banal menu is straight out of the 1950’s (eg terrine maison, steak, crème brulee). I opted for the encornets in garlic sauce with pepper (“garlic?” - could’a fooled me); they were out of their plat de jour (chicken fricasee) so I had the pork (unfortunately it didn’t pass the Colette test – ie can she do it better?), the edges were crispy & great, the center – blah, but the ratatouille was more than acceptable. Bill = 25.80 E. It gets my blue ribbon for best price of the Year 2005 and if I were staying in a hotel nearby, I’d retry it. Hummmm, what to say about Rez-de-chaussée? The night before I ate there, the Guignols , (that only now, I discover, after all these years, one can watch every week-night, even in the US, via their website), based their show on being positive about French politics. So I’ll begin my impressions of this place, located at 65, rue Letort in the 18th, 01.42.64.64.39, closed only on Sundays, accentuating the positive; specifically, it’s near the St-Ouen flea market (and there’s not a lot of opportunities there; Le Soleil being quite unpredictable), it’s really, really cheap (formula = 12.30 and menu = 17.80 E with a glass of wine), it’s charming, with a pleasant staff, and it serves the biggest digestif in Paris. Ah, but there’s a “but” here, right? Indeed. The food is OK, only, and, while, if it were in the 11th, it would be hopping, it’s not, so unless you live nearby or you’re at the flea market and must eat on the quick, I wouldn’t schlep out here. My salad of gizzards was correct, well-cooked, with just the right amount of tartness in the dressing to set it off; the cod was perfectly cooked with a nice side of curried white lentils; the chocolate mousse standard. So what if the bread was stale, waitperson preoccupied, the toilet Turkish and the paper towel dispenser empty; it’s convenient. The worst meal of the century? Surely not – the century is only 5 years old. The worst pricey meal of the decade? Possibly right up there. The biggest disappointment? Well, it’s in the running. Exaggeration? Maybe. The improbably named The Place, 11 rue Jean-Mermoz in the 8th, 0143.59.21.00, got 2 hearts in Figaroscope this week, so when I had the chance to eat there with two wonderful, sensible, wise and young Paris-based foodie-friends, I couldn’t imagine it would turn out so badly. But think about it: it’s in the 8th (who eats there anyway?); it’s run by Gilles Epie’s son (and we all have our personal opinions about Epie pere); and it looks like a cross between Spicy and Spoon. But you know you’re in trouble when three of you fumble to order, your major caloric intake is from the wine not the food, and when you try to share your food, you’re politely refused. We made not unreasonable choices: a tartare of tuna, gazpacho, fish with coconut sauce, sweetbreads, rougets and fried shrimp, but not a one was worth finishing. The bill?; I’m too embarrassed to say.

Today's IHT has an article by Roger Cohen on the Senderens proposal. To those who have followed the coverage, it probably offers nothing new, but it is a nice summary in English.

Today's Figaro reports that Gilles Pudlowski has two books appearing next week - on Corsica and Brittany. Please remember that if you order them through eGullet our worthy organization gets a minor but significant contribution to reducing its costs.

Well, I'm not sure it's the end of the war but today's Figaro reported that Jean-Paul Hevin got the prize for best macaron in Paris.

Have changed text to reflect correct days. Thanks. John

As an imperfect but driven "flaneur," I chanced by Maxim's today. There's a small cafe which appears rather pathetic considering its history. There's a shop of Maxim-branded tchotchkes. There is supposed to be an expo of photos on the second floor, but the "greeter" seemed oblivious. Not the Maxims of yore.

Several thots: Lucy, you've started a great thread. Busboy, I'm with you. As a friend (French, food-obsessed, indeed food-crazed), said today "but we're crazy." There is a class on tying scarfs/scarves given at WICE (the Women's Institute for Continuing Education), or at least it was 20 years ago, but a friend recommends looking at Aristide Briand posters until you get it right. Finally, totally off-topic, museums - two great shows - the Brazil show at the GP and the Bob Wilson "Fables of Fontaine" designs, sets, drawings at the Yves St-Laurent space near the Pont de l'Alma.

Indeed, Arnaud Larher, now at 53, rue Caulincourt (not far from the Lamark-Caulincourt Metro) - whom I understand was raised in Brittany, makes a very tasty Kouign Amman, and for those folks perplexed as to how to pronounce it - it's Queen-a-man (now don't everyone jump on my attempt to simply the language of Moliere).

Today I went to the Where office and picked up the June issue, which confirms my sense of what bistrots are hot these days - Alexander Lobrano listed La Cerisaie, Les Papilles, L’Ami Marcel, L’Ourcine, Le Mesturet, Le Marsangy, Le Temps au Temps, + Au Vieux Chene. And please do report back, positive or negative; too many folks never give us feedback; and happy eating!

I'm aware we've got another thread running on vegetarian food but it seems to have become less involved with restaurants than with meat/animal issues. So I'll post this here for completeness - in June's Where, Alexander Lobrano mentions La Ferme, 57 Rue St-Roch in the 1st and Aquarius, 40, rue de Gergovie in the 14th as well as the previously mentioned Arpege.

Let me throw one more in the mix; Jacques Genin, 18, rue St-Charles in the 15th - Yves Camdeborde uses his products.

The Week of May 30th, 2005 In this week’s Bonjour Paris, Dennis Neuenkirchen, a vegetarian, wrote not so much a review as an essay on a restaurant with a Greek name, Illios, 61 rue Ramey in the 18th, 01.42.23.67.60, menu 26 E, run by two Greek men, which he insists is not Greek. They serve mediterranean food such as mushroom gazpacho with thyme, rougets, turkey and spinach roll and rib steak with gorgonzola. Monday-Tuesday, A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard gave mini-reviews of several ethnic places in Paris, as follows: Denmark Flora Danica Spain Fogon St-Julien Greece Les Delices d’Aphrodite Hungary Le Paprika Ireland Carr’s Italy Caffe Minotti Portugal Saudade In addition, May 9th, I missed reporting on A Nous Paris, but through the good offices of my downstairs’ neighbor, Alexandra, I see that Jean Aubry (a new name among “A Nous’s” reviewers) gave a miserable1/5 blocks to Harold, coordinates in prior posts and considering the consensus on its lack of merits, I’ll say no more. Wednesday, Sebastien Demorand in Zurban devoted his primary review to Yves Camdeborde’s new place - the Comptoir du Relais, 5, carrefour de l’Odéon in the 6th, 01.44.27.07.97, closed Saturday and Sunday; lunch is about 30-35 E; set dinner of 5 courses is 40 E. Demorand toys with the readers a bit about sites on the “net” {could that be us?} wondering when he’d open. Anyway, he then describes his meal (they change nightly) of gazpacho, pork cheeks with foie gras, lamb’s knuckle and a “pot” of chocolate {my review is here}. In his ”Casseroles,” he covered 3 places: a vaguely 1930’s looking but new brasserie, Bistrot B, 81, avenue Bosquet in the 7th, 01.47.05.36.15, open everyday with a formula at 22 and menu at 28 (a la carte 38-45E), which was only fairly good but had quite good charcuteries, Goupil, 4, rue Claude-Debussy in the 17th, 01.45.74.83.25, closed weekends, a la carte about 45E, which he notes looks like 10,000 other bistros but where he liked the boudin noir and pintade {for my take see here}, and a Cambodian place in the 1st – La Mousson. Also on Wednesday, in Figaroscope’s, “C’est nouveau,” Emmanuel Rubin reviewed five places, giving only one heart but the photo and lead to l’Azalee, 78, ave des Ternes in the 17th, in the old Amplycles space, 01.40.68.01.01, closed weekends, serving veal sweetbreads, lobster gratin, seasonal fruits for 50 E a la carte and 37 E menu at lunch; then two two-hearters, The Place, 11, rue Jean-Mermoz in the 8th, 01.43.59.21.47, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, run by Gilles Epie’s son, serving crevettes beignets, marinated dorade and too dry risotto of peas for about 45E, lunch menu = 25 and a Persian place Mazeh in the 15th; and then two more one-heart ones – Tandem, 10, Buttes-aux-Cailles in the 13th, 01.45.80.38.69, closed Sundays {see my April thread for my review} serving platters of charcuteries, boudin noir, pureed potatoes, etc., for about 30 E and a Japanese place Hinata in Asnieres-Gennevilliers. There really are two “Dossiers” this week; the first concerning a variety of vegetable gardens in the Ile de France open this weekend that appears to be only available in the hard-copy, which is regrettable since there was a strike of delivery folks that prevented Figaroscope from arriving at kiosks and news agents; the second, called “l’Air du Temps” is about ephemeral restaurants that are open this summer (rather than give them as they do by the number of days open, I’ll list them by date of closing so persons wanting to go will know how long they’ve got to take advantage of them): Open: June 22-23 - Les Delphemeres tele 01.70.08.71.38 (place unknown) June 9-16 - Tokyo Eat at the Palais de Tokyo mid-June for 90 days – Guinguette a la Villette, Parc de la Villette Closing: June 5 – Les Jardins de Roland-Garros June 5 – Vegetable at Printemps, Alain Passard’s one June 22 – Table Nutella, 46, ave de Sevigne in the 4th Sept 15 – La Terrasse du Parc at the Sofitel le Parc Sept 15 - La Cour Jardin at the Hotel Plaza Athenee And several others you can find via their website. In this vein, Francois Simon dined at the Raphael, 17, ave Kleber in the 16th, 01.53.64.32.00, (one must call to be sure terrace is open), costing 80 E for one with water; In his “Hache Menu” he asks “Should one go?” Answer: {my translation} - “Sort of.” Thursday-Friday, Jean-Claude Ribaut’s “Toques en Pointe” in Le Monde reviewed three places: L’Oliver, 418, rue des Wallons in the 13th, 01.43.31.36.04, closed Sundays, menus from 15-40 E with wine where Laurent Dewynter gives you a gizzard salad, terrine of veggies or cassoulet of mussels and choice among six mains (salmon, lotte, magret, beef, etc) for an “unbeatable 15E; L’Ecallier du Bistrot, 422, rue Paul-Bert in the 11th, 01.43.72.76.77, closed Sundays and Mondays; formula of lobster and fries for 40 (until the end of July), a la carte 25 E {Ed Note: they’re best known for the oysters that come from the Madame Cadoret’s father’s oyster beds in Brittany}; and the Cave Gourmande, 410, rue du General-Brunet in the 19th {if the address looks familiar it’s because it’s the old space of Eric Frechon, for several years decamped to the Bristol}, 01.40.40.03.30, closed weekends, where Mark Singer, origin American but trained here, serves an “honest, vigorous” menu from the market, much as Frechon did; eg 5 entrees, 6 mains and 5 desserts for 32 E, formula = 28 E. Saturday, Francois Simon’s “Croque Notes” in Le Figaro discusses Taillevent’s Jean-Claude Vrinat’s reaction(s) to Alain Senderens giving up his stars and the profitability or lack thereof, of starred places. He also semi-reviews a “restaurant-bar” Polichinelle Café, 64-66, rue de Charonne in the 11th, 01.58.30.63.52, where the chef mixes puts Asiatic touches (wasabi, wantons) onto food that could be served in a great place, but for “soothing” prices – eg 25-30E. Sunday, JDD’s Astrid de T’Cerclaes reviewed two restaurants: one that has recently been opened and reported on above, le 5 Mars aka Cinq Mars, where she liked everything but the reservation rigidity; the other, longer in existence and in some guidebooks: le Pre Carre, where she found the food well-cooked but the clientele a bit too much. Also, in what I always find an interesting section, Aurelie Chaigneau recounts a well-known chef’s personal affordable eating places. In this case, Michel Roth of l’Espadon at the Ritz selects l’Ami Marcel, coordinates in prior posts and le Bistrot du Boucher, 1 rue Damremont in the18th, 01.42.59,11,28, closed Sunday nights, running about 28 a la carte but with a 16 and 17 E menu with an apertif or 26.50 E with an apertif, drink and coffee. Finally, no longer willing to fork over many too many Euros to Gault-Millau for what has become a glossy vehicle for advertising, with my news-agents’ permission, I snuck a look at this season’s very brief reviews of Paris restos, of which there were only three: Harumi, Beauvilliers + Auguste, coordinates and reviews already reported above. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.