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Everything posted by John Talbott
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The Week of February 28th, 2005 Rosa Jackson in “Paris Bites” in Paris Notes starts off with a disappointing note about her burnt and fatty meal at L’Absinthe {Ed. Note: too bad she doesn’t read eGullet.com}and then goes on to say that she’s compiling a running list of “bargain” places, e.g. under 30 Euros without beverages and would like suggestions. To date it consists of: Petrelle Pre Verre Astier Mon Vieil Ami Willi’s Wine Bar In another column in Paris Notes, Roger Grody writes up the “hottest” chocolate places in Paris and includes: Patrice Chapon, Charpentier, La Maison du Chocolat, Michel Chaudun, Christian Constant, La Fontaine au Chocolat, Richart, Jean-Paul Hévin, Debauve & Gallais and Peter Beier Chokolade. In Monday’s Figaro Entreprises’s Tables d’Affaires, Francois Simon reviewed the now maybe a decade old Violin d’Ingres. Because of its renoun and well-known menu, I won’t detail the dishes, but note that he mentions the menu as being divided into house specialties and seasonal items; the business lunch is 39E, menus at 80 and 110 Euros and he winds up giving it a 3/5 in cuisine and 2/5 in welcome and price-quality ratio. Monday-Tuesday’s A Nous Paris featured two places already reviewed by others: Le Square, 227 bis, rue Marcadet in the 18th, 01.53.11.08.41, formulas at lunch 13 & 17, at dinner 25-35 Euros, closed Sundays and Mondays, where Berger or Toinard (it’s unsigned), seemed to have a better experience (4/5 blocks) than and I had {on a different occasion of course}, and Les Don Juan, 19, rue de Picardie in the 3rd, 01.42.71.31.71, menus at lunch 11.50 & 14, a la carte = 27.50-34.50 Euros, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, which he describes like a light lunch in summer and admires the vegetarian dishes, giving it 3/5 blocks. Also in the side-bar they mention, the Swedish Tapas place Trema, 8, rue de Marseille in the 10th, also already reviewed by others. Wednesday, Sebastien Demorand, in Zurban devotes his primary page to the “troquet fusione,” e.g. fusion café/bistrot Indigo Square, 7, rue Marceau just on other side of the peripherique at the Porte de Bagnolet, 01.43.63.26.95, Metro=Galliéni, closed Sundays and Mondays, menu= 20 E and a la carte 30 E. He describes it as run by a Swedish woman who knows French and Asian cuisine and has a very reasonable menu and good wines {Ed Note: if it’s anywhere near as good as the other place he found way out there, Pibale 308 Club, it could be worth sampling.} It serves tempting sounding dishes like a “maki” of salmon and tuna with ginger and kiwi fruit, brochettes of shrimp with a saffron chorizo puree and beef tournedos with fennel and jasmine. Then he writes of the “reprise” of a restaurant called Barrathym, 2 rue Ramey in the 18th, Metro=Chateau Rouge, 01.42.54.61.31, open everyday, lunch formula = 12E, a la carte 20-25 E. He says it used to be called Le vin Jaune, serving specialties of the Jura, which Google confirms, but since I pass near there every day running I have no recollection of it and indeed the pix on the Pages Jaune site shows a place called “Le DISC UNT COLONIAL” {Ed Note: is everyone familiar with the site that allows you to see photos of Paris buildings? It's here? – it’s very useful to see where you’re going.} But back to the review; Demorand quotes dishes served there that sound quite interesting: foie gras with (false) mango chutney, sweet-sour frogs’ legs, entrecote and a Haut-Brion 1997 for 115 Euros. {Hummm}. Then he reviews what he calls a true-false bistrot, La Cafetiere, 21, rue Mazarine in the 6th, 01.46.33.76.90, metro=Odeon, closed Saturday at lunch and Sundays, a la carte 26E. It used to be Casa Corse, if you’ll recall, and it now serves more or less classic bistrot stuff (herring, boudin, mashed potatoes, crème brulee, etc). {EN: My take on it is here.} Finally, he reviews another lovely bistro (of which there once were 700 million in Paris), the Reveil Bastille, 29, boulevard Henri-IV in the 4th, 01.42.72.73.26, Metro=Bastille or Sully-Morland, closed Sundays and Monday evening, formula at 13.50 E and a la carte = 20-25 E. It sounds again like classic bistro food (terrine of rabbit with a compote of onions, etc), although not up to the snuff it should be (too greasy, sauteed potatoes with the tartare), served in a beautiful setting. Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin does his usual thing in “C’est nouveau.” Two hearts each go to what is an upgraded wine bar, Les Bas-Fonds, 116 rue Amelot in the 11th, 01.48.05.00.30, closed Sundays, Metro-Filles-du-Calvaire, 30-40 E, with things like “fingers” of shrimp, crab tempura, lacquered chicken, crumble with Nutrella and banana; and Cielito Lindo a Mexican Cantine in the 11th. He gives one heart each to EK Poincare, 43, avenue Raymond-Poincare in the 16th, 01.47.04.33.80, closed Sundays, Metro=Trocadero, another Eric Kayser “restauboulangerie;” Bel Ami Café, 7-11 rue St-Benoit in the 6th, 01.42.61.53.53, open until 10:30 AM for breakfast at 22 Euros; and Millesimes 62, 13-15, place de Catalogne in the 14th, 01.43.35.34.35, open every day but Saturday lunch and Sundays, Metro=Montparnasse, a “banal” brasserie, serving brandade, grenadine of veal with morilles on 19 and 24 E menus. The Dossier covers one of my favorites, Cotes de Boeuf and mentions: La Dinee Apicius Pearl Boucherie Rouliere Le Moulin a Vent Le Cafe de Commerce Hippopotamus Titi Parisien Le Boeuf couronne In that vein, Francois Simon’s Hache menu covers: Le Severo, 8, rue des Plantes in the 14th, 01.45.40.40.91, closed Saturdays and Sundays where he says “Go” for the exceptional wine list and first class meat. I won’t quote him extensively, but in brief he glows about the perfectly seasoned, exquisite cote de boeuf, which came with rissole potatoes. He notes that it’ll cost you at least 50 E a piece and that’s before you’re tempted by the great wines. In Friday’s Figaro, Alexandra Michot wrote about classic patisseries created by the top patisseurs is Paris. Her article mentioned: Aoki Sadaharu Délicabar Fauchon Ladurée Lenôtre Pierre Hermé Karen Fawcett, in her website Bonjour Paris is the latest to come across and like La Cerisaie, 70, bvd Edgar-Quinet in the 14th, 01.43.20.98.98, Metro=Montparnasse {indeed, it's practically opposite the Metro exit near C&A}, closed weekends, a la carte 30-35 E without beverages. Go now!, like L'Ourcine, Fawcett reports that it has been "discovered" as well by Gourmet and inevitably will show up there. In addition, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp has a nice article on Pyramide's history. Jocelyn Carnegie in “Postcards from Paris” writes of a place difficult to find (except in Zagat’s) in the guidebooks – Café Charbon, 109 rue Oberkampf in the 11th, 01.43.57.55.13, Metro=Parmentier. I mention it because one dish she mentions sounds interesting and fusiony, lemongrass chicken; prices – 18 E formula, 24 E menu. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.
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That's not an expression I've heard before. Does that refer to the man who saw too much rainwater and lived to tell about it? Here in NY, we often refer to tap water by the name of the current mayor. Eau de Bloomberg has replace eau de Giuliani. ← Yes, indeed, Bertrand Delanoe, (the new eGullet policy is to eschew accents (e.g., Delanoë)), is the current Mayor; anyway, "eau de..." sounds too much like a cologne or digestif.
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John T.: I have a question. Do you think it's 1 - possible to eat out 200 times a year? and 2 - spend only an average of $25 per meal with the dollar/Euro conversion? Perhaps she doesn't drink water or wine! ← Answers: 1. Sure, if you eat lunch out every day you're in Paris (which actually I do, as well, I must guiltily admit). 2. Ah, here she says it's because she often has only the plat du jour, which at some places is 11 or 12 E, or even if it's 15E, with a glass of wine at 4-5 E = $22-26. That I don't do. And I suspect she has Chateau Delanoe rather than bottled water. I don't know her, so I've got to accept what she says on faith, but I guess it's possible, but I'd sure have trouble sticking to such a regimen, especially once I saw the foie gras special. Edited by John Talbott for spelling error.
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For everyone's information, Time Out Paris has apparently had a big cut back in its budget which began last summer when it pulled out of providing the English section in the back of Pariscope. I've noticed since then that their website offers much less regarding restaurants. Their annual edition may hold up, but for some reason, their other ventures in Paris did not perform as well as the NY and London ones.
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For those interested, Francois Simon wrote an Op Ed piece in yesterday's New York Times that while using the New York edition of the Red Guide as a "peg," pretty much rehashes the opinions expressed in his articles in Le Figarofrom last week.
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Check out her photo here. Edited by John Talbott to correct quote.
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Right, I couldn't agree more. And in addition to the big summary map in front of the Michelin red, often the agglomeration (local) maps Michelin has, show restos within and outside 30 minutes of the city center; thus if driving from X to Y and by Z, you can often find good food just off the big routes. I must say my one meal at Courtpaille cured me of any wish for a repeat experience.
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I'd add to that, that it's fascinating that places that say they're open on Sunday and/or Monday, are often open even if it's also a special holiday. All the places noted by 42390 are just fine, I'd add the Brasserie Lorraine and Chopotte a new place, as well.
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Today's Figaroscope has a list of Paris places for Cotes de Boeuf. See the Dossier here. They are: La Dinee Apicius Pearl Boucherie Rouliere Le Moulin a Vent Le Cafe de Commerce Hippopotamus Titi Parisien Le Boeuf couronne
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It is not just you. I would respectfully suggest that the Blue Michelin bookmap of Paris, it used to be #14, now I think it's #12, is much easier to read than Taride for the geezer bunch. The only time I use the Tirade is when looking for streets in the banlieus. Also you may have to ask more than once, but the #2 RATP Metro map is so much better than the #1 or those little creditcard sized ones the young folks carry. Why struggle to read stuff when there are legible maps?
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Why do we come to Paris to eat? To go to places like La Pibale-Club 308, 308, rue de Charenton in the 12th, 01.44.75.01.55, closed Saturday and Monday lunch and Sundays, but open for quiet lunches and vigorous jazz evenings the other days. I can’t speak to the jazz, but the food is fantastic and don’t bother telling me you can get this in Marin County. There’s something cursed about Basque restaurants here; several good ones, in great locations, have opened and closed in recent years. But maybe this place, lodged in the culinary “no man’s land” between the Gare de Bercy and the Bois de Vincennes, will thrive. Lord knows it’s gotten good reviews in Zurban, Le Point + Paris Obs and couldn’t have been better. I thought maybe I’d stumbled into a canteen of one of the nearby auto showrooms – Spanish-tiled tables, horrible art on the wall, four gigantic apple tarts on a table by the door. The patron, sporting a chef’s outfit, greeted me at the door, walked me through the Basque terms, guided me to pick the charcuterie (wonderfully thinly sliced Spanish jamon and slightly thicker cured Basque ham and a boudin with a quite astonishing piquant tomato sauce) and the gateau basque, but I held out for the calamars, over his suggestion of the veal. Wine can be ordered by the carafe, the bread is unbelievable for the location and the coffee is quite respectable. At my query as to what my wife Colette could eat, he noted that aside from the tartares of salmon and tuna, he had daurade, tuna (to be prepared unilateral to keep it moist) and one other fish, not on the menu, at the ready. I was too satisfied to try the basque cheese but it looked great. No one ever followed my advice to go to Les Magnolias or Eric Frechon in the boonies and I’m sure no one will schlep out here when tired of pacing the Louvre at noon – I can hear it now, “out where?” - tant pis! 45 Euros, all locals, no flim-flam. Well, Les Caves Miard, 9, rue des Quatre-Vents in the 6th, 01.43.54.99.30, closed Sundays and Mondays, is a little gem. As readers may have suspected, I’m not big on wine bars, but this place is the exception to the rule. About 13 seats and 3 bar stools, walls lined with bottles of wine, olive oil, vinegar, ragu bolognese, etc., and one guy doing it all. It was just right for me on a freezing Saturday; a bit of lard and I mean lard, Costieres de Nimes wine and a nice radicchio salad with balsamic and parmesan. Perfection. My bill was 35 Euros. No smoking, indeed the one-man band, Piero or Pierre, went outside to have a puff. The music was strangely reminiscent of Italian groups on the Metro, but somehow here it fit. Here’s another unpretentious small, local place that’s not about to attract many tourists despite its being quite good, open 7/7 and located right near the famous rue d’Alesia shops. La Chopotte, 168, rue d’Alesia in the 14th, 01.45.43.18.16, says it’s a bistro a vins, which I suppose technically is correct, but then, is there a “dry” bistro? It has a big chalkboard with everything in firsts from classic herring and potatoes to a very generous langoustine salad (so many I could hardly finish); and Salers beef to four fish choices; and all the classic desserts. Prices are gentle, my bill was 34 E, the service was warm, and it hit the spot on a very chilly Sunday. Illy coffee. Should a place be condemned because of the all-too-frequent U-shaped meal, that is, a good first and dessert and a disappointing main? I must start out by saying that I love Dix Vins, the mothership of this new place, so I was excited when I read of the opening of Midi Vins, rue du Cherche-Midi in the 6th, 01.45.48.33.71, open everyday but Sundays, but, but, but – while the lisette was perfect in its degree of sweet-sour Sherry sauce and temperature and the crème caramel was great, albeit a bit irregular, one cannot serve confit de canard and Sarladaisian potatoes cool/lukewarm on a cold plate. Sorry. The coffee and wine were good, however. Too bad. By the way, the Minister of Agriculture, who’s always bemoaning the drop in wine sales, should pop in here, no teetotalers to be seen. Ah my! Le Bistrot des Soupirs aka Chez Raymonde, 49, rue de la Chine in the 20th, 01.44.62.93.31, open everyday but Sundays and Mondays, sounded perfect; recommended by one of my two best resto “finders,” full-page featured in “Zurban’s Guide,” formula at 13 (not a typo), menu at 15 Euros; how could one not love it? OK, it’s a bit out of the way, but that wasn’t the problem, I used to camp on, or is it in, the steppes of the 20th. First, the sautéed foie gras frais with apples was of mixed temperature (center of the plate hot, outside cold, in between - in between); an interesting concept, like salmon unilateral or mi-cuit gambas, but….. Second, the scallops were not rank, not under or over cooked, just bland, plain, nul - stamped out raie has more character; and the al dente leeks etc., underneath did not complement the St. Jacques. The wine (an Anjou) and coffee (Lavazza) were just fine. Will I send my young relatives who are backpacking through Europe on x dollars a day there? You bet, where else can two people eat 3 courses with a bottle of drinkable wine for 40 Euros?
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The Week of February 21st, 2005 In Monday’s Figaro Entreprises’s Tables d’Affaires, Francois Simon reviewed the venerable brasserie Garnier, 111, rue Saint-Lazare in the 8th, opposite the station, 01.43.87.50.40, open every day, calling it “unsinkable,” serving honorable, consistent and fresh fish and shellfish. He gives it 2/5 in its cuisine and price-quality and 4/5 in atmosphere. He justifies writing it up, despite these mediocre marks, because of its authentic spirit of Paris and its fresh seafood. Monday-Tuesday’s A Nous Paris as usual, featured their two reviewers covering two restaurants: Jerome Berger awarded Cinq Mars, coordinates above, 3/5 blocks and especially noted the entire wall devoted to a wine chalk board. Meanwhile, Philippe Toinard gave 4/5 blocks to Tokyo Eat, 13, av du President-Wilson in the 16th, 01.47.20.00.29. It highlights “daring” preparations and location (perfect if you’re tired after touring the Palais de Tokyo Museums, Palais Galliera or Guimet). FYI, those who might be tempted to try Japanese food in Paris are advised to consult a book mentioned in “A Nous Paris,” the “Guide des restaurants japonais de Paris,” written by Jiloshi Gracamoto, who tested 300 such restaurants {Editor’s Note: wow}, publisher = Editoo.com. In addition, in their “Coups de Coeur du Mois,” they name L’Autobus, whose coordinates have also been given here before. Other Book Notes: “A Nous Paris” also mentions a new book out called “Bistrots, brasseries et restaurants parisiens,” authored by M Flory and C Forissier, published by Ereme, 250 p, 39,50E with lots of pictures and a recipe per place. In addition, they and Zurban note that Cyril Lignac, of M6 TV fame, having opened his new place, Le Quinzième, coordinates given before, naturally has published a book too – “Cuisine attitude,” from Hachette pratique. Other fait divers: Zurban notes that Ocean Spray Cranberry juice is available in France for the first time in the big and medium sized supermarkets for 1,49 E a liter. Tuesday, Le Figaro published three articles that I’m not sure our members would be much interested in except to regret that at lunch time France resembles more and more the US, but I’ll mention them for completeness: The first is on “Metro-boulot-resto” food that keeps you thin; it’s here, The second discusses “finger-food” (sic) attitude, eg sandwiches, pizza, hamburgers, frites, sodas, etc., here, and third, there’s to be a “snack salon” aka the European Sandwich & Snack Show, 2 March, 9 AM -7 PM, 3 March 9 AM -5 PM at the Palais des Congres, porte Maillot in the 17th . (I’m not posting this on the calendar because I cannot imagine anyone going, but to read about it go here. Wednesday’s Figaroscope’s “C’est nouveau” gave two hearts each to La Chopotte, 168, rue d’Alesia in the 14th, 01.45.43.16.16, open everyday, costing 25-30 Euros a la carte, Metro=Plaisance which they call a “sincere” bistrot serving herring in oil, cold cuts, andouillette, veal ribs, clafoutise (sic), and moelleux of chocolate and Daniel Lounge, at the Hotel Daniel, 8, rue Frederic-Bastiat in the 8th, 01.42.56.17.00, Metro= Franklin Roosevelt, open everyday, 30-50 E a la carte, serving langoustines salad, scrambled eggs with truffles, mini-hamburgers. There were also two one heart places: I Virtuosi an Italian place in the 9th and Zenyama, a Japanese place in the 5th; plus a busted plate to Bistrot d’Helene in the 15th. Figaroscope’s Dossier dealt with brunch: Fine hotels: Murano Urban Resort Les Ambassadeurs Le Safran Park Hyatt Vendome Arty: La Blanchisserie Renoma Café Gallery Bread and Company: EK Boulangerie Rose Bakery At Museums: Le Cafe de techniques NAP La Gare Everyday (e.g. not just weekends or Sundays): Le Village The great classic brunch places: Justine Asian L’Appart’ Club Med World Sir Winston Mariage Freres Blue Elephant L’Alcazar Café Jacquemart-Andre Relais Lagrange In that vein, Francois Simon had brunch at La Ferme du Golf in the Jardin d’Acclimatation in the Bois de Boulogne in the 16th, 01.40.67.15.17, where he took (his) two kids, paying the entrance fees, tickets for rides, etc., and 72 Euros for his (32 E) and two children’s brunches (20 E each). In this week’s Zurban, Sebastian Demorand leads off with a review of what is sort of an enhanced Perigordian wine bar, Un jour a Peyrassol, 13, rue Vivienne in the 2nd, 01.42.60.12.92, Metro=Bourse, open only for lunch except for private parties at night, closed Sundays and Mondays, a la carte 30-50 E depending on how many truffle-laden dishes you order. The other three places he covered in “Casseroles” are the swank but disappointing Auguste, 54, rue de Bourgogne in the 7th, 01.45.51.61.09, Metro-Varenne, run by the ex-Meurice chef, where he notes that even the American tourists were not impressed with the food, lunch formula= 35 E, but a la carte is 55-65 E, Les Crocs, 14, rue de Cotte in the 12th, 01.43.46.63.63, open for lunch only, closed Sundays and Mondays, metro=Ledru-Rollin where he discusses mainly the charcuterie, ham and sausage, a la carte 20E, and the Bistrot 13, 43, rue Esquirol in the 13th, 01.45.70.96.56, closed Sundays and Monday lunch a la carte 38E, Metro=Campo-Formio, which he subtitles, a small neighborhood café, serving over-cooked magret and OK entrecote. Thursday’s Le Figaro discusses the premature release of the France 2005 Michelin Red Guide decisions. See the discussion thread here. Thursday, as well ParuVendu gave a listing of places where the host/owner/chef loves rugby that included: Guy Savoy Le J’Go Le Violin d’Ingres Le Carre des Feullants Le Café Constant Au Bascou Le Troquet L’Ile La Petite Auberge Chez Michel Les Copains Le Stade Le Pamphlet (NB: Strangely, in Sunday’s JDD Version Femina they listed four of these places that Philippe Toinard (of “A Nous Paris”) likes and whose chefs are rugby-friendly, Le Troquet, Le J’Go, Le Café Constant + Au Bascou, as well as two tapas bars La Plaza del Toro + Pakito.) Saturday, following up on his reactions Thursday to the Michelin 2005’s promotions and demotions, Francois Simon’s Croque Notes in Le Figaro’s takes issue with a few other Michelin decisions (e.g. not promoting Stella Maris but rewarding Helene Darroze and demoting les Elysees de Vernet of Eric Briffard, whose food he likes and which prompted him to go there to eat the night he learned of its loss of a star (see below’s JDD)). For the thread on the Michelin 2005, see here. He also does something I’ve not seen him do before; award an “Oscar” for the most disappointing dish of the week, a bar with poppy seeds stuffed with shrimp and saffron sauce at the resto of the Hotel Lotti, which he found practically inedible, but balances this by touting l’Anacreon, about which he received a telephone recommendation for its sincere and warm food. Sunday, almost in solidarity with Simon and Briffard, the Journal de Dimanche dedicated its “A Table Avec….” to Eric Briffard and noted his three favorite affordable restaurants: Ze Kitchen Galerie, Le Bistral +Lai-Lai Ken. It also announced that the new young chef cooking with Alain Ducasse now is Jean-Marie Baudic from Brittany. This Saturday, in “Vivre Aujourd’hui” in Le Figaro, coincident with the opening of the Salon international de l’Agriculture at the Porte de Versailles, Alexandra Michot has an article on funny products (e.g. catsup of cassis), temporary restaurants (e.g. Thoumieux and interesting culinary displays/demonstrations/etc (e.g. fruit sculpture and flavored milk). GaultMillau in its Number 12 (February-March 2005) {strange numbering system}has brief blurbs {they’re really not reviews}of the following whose coordinates have appeared here before, exceptions noted, {EN: Reader beware, whereas they rate restos outside Paris on a scale of 10-20, inside the peripherique they don’t, except for the occasional toque, at least this month, in the magazine}: Le Grenadin Gourmand 1 Toque Cage M Hyatt Madeleine Caffe Minotti 1 Toque Autour du Mont Le Roland Garros La Table Lauriston Café d’Angel Margaret Kemp, in Bonjour Paris’s Premium subscriber edition, went to Auguste, coordinates given above, recently, and loved it. She notes that the chef, Gael Orieux, had worked previously at Le Meurice, Paul Bocuse, Lucas Carton, Taillevent, Les Ambassadeurs + Le Cinq. She also (it’s not clear what she sampled) applauds his “signature dish,” the cold cauliflower soup with an oyster. {EN: which my friends and I found lacking in zip, pazzaz, etc.) In any case, she clearly has great hopes for this place {EN: which unfortunately I cannot second.}. Another food note in Bonjour Paris, is the news, I believe already reported here and elsewhere on the Forum, that Christian Constant, the restaurateur not the chocolatier, will give a cooking demonstration, March 7th, for 175 E at his flagship resto Le Violon d’Ingres. Info at cooking@parisperfect.com. Also, Adrian Leeds, in her newsletter ParlerParis, wrote a review of Marie Edith, 34 rue du Laos in the 15th, 01.45.66.44.60, Metro = Cambronne, run by a husband/wife team, which has starters like rocket salad with snails, salad of crawfish tails and mains of bar, magret and andouillette. The 3 course menu = 28 Euros. {EN: Sounds pretty good.} Edited by John Talbott to eliminate two errors. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.
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Salon International de l'Agriculture Paris FebMar
John Talbott replied to a topic in France: Cooking & Baking
Well, first off, it's vast in several different halls but there's some sort of shuttle bus this year between buildings. Second, unless you're an animal freak, after you've seen a couple of cows, sheep, etc, it's not terribly exciting there. But third, you certainly can taste a lot of wine and food from various regions and there are a lot of temporary utilitarian restos serving very big portions of stuff your cardiologist would not approve of. And today, in “Vivre Aujourd’hui” in Le Figaro, Alexandra Michot has an article on funny products (e.g. catsup of cassis), temporary restaurants (e.g. Thoumieux) and interesting culinary displays/demonstrations/etc (e.g. fruit sculpture and flavored milk). Last time I went there, there were even some very rustic looking clothes for sale. Check out the website that Bux put up on the Calendar for more info. Have fun. It's wild. Edited by John Talbott for grammar gaffes. -
Sorry for the mistranslation, I knew I shouldn’t have fallen asleep during the “ne….que” lesson. Following up on his reactions Thursday, Francois Simon in today’s Le Figaro’s Croque Notes, not yet on their website, also takes issue with a few other Michelin decisions. He critiques the loss of one of Eric Briffard’s (les Elysees de Vernet) two stars; relating that for “bizarre” reasons, e.g. to better understand what Michelin did, he went to the restaurant the very night (Wednesday) that he learned that Briffard’s star was taken away and found the food still good to very good. He also takes exception with the Michelin’s continuing non-elevation of Stella Maris to star status and thinks that Michelin sends the wrong message by rewarding places like Helene Darroze with two stars, not say Stella Maris {my liberal and I hope generally correct read.} Also, on a personal note, regarding the Pourcels, I've never been blown away by their food in either of their venues.
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Which must be a new variation on Chinese torture, putting some restaurants in anxious limbo at different levels. This really looks like Michelin searching for new and subtle ways to strenghthen its power through new and subtle kinds of blackmail, as a "we'll show you who's boss" reaction to recent attacks on its credibility (and big mistakes like the latest Belgian joke). ← Not only “Espoirs,” this year’s version will have notations for handicap access and no smoking. There was more to the story(ies) that I should convey. First, everyone’s pointing fingers at everyone else (what’s new?); the Corsicans say for 20 years they’ve gotten their copies a day late; the Michelin folks say that’s why they sent them a week early, the Calvians say there were no instruction on the palettes as to when to open/distribute them, the mainlanders say the French equivalent of “Duh, it’s always the beginning of March.” Needless to say, this “scandal,” coming on top of the Benelux gaffe and the Pascal Remy book, has prompted an “inquiry.” Francois Simon had an article (which I suspect was “in the can” for release next week) about putting the release of the Michelin 2005 in perspective. First, he notes that while its release in gastronomic circles is a big deal, for most folks, it’s used for the maps, coordinates, “Bib Gourmands” and hotel info. Second, the Michelin is no longer the law, French food and it are a bit diminished. Third, it’s sort of like advice from your old aunt, what’s reflected there was known by everyone in the know, except the Micheliners, for quite a while (e.g. that the Freres Pourcel did not deserve three stars but Regis Marcon did). Fourth, geopolitics: Michelin’s head says “we only judge the food” but often the places that are technically good are boring and places like those by the Pourcel brothers get three stars because there’s no competition around them (eg in the Languedoc-Roussillon.) Finally, he’s somewhat cynical about the “Espoirs” category, attributing it to “marketing” and political and gastronomic “correctness” and an attempt to be more current vis a vis other guides which are quicker in recognizing good “little places.”
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The Michelin Red Guide 2005 for France is officially out in March but insiders have known who moved in which directions for several weeks and yesterday, a Corsican newspaper Corse-Matin got the jump on everyone else by acquiring a copy which went on sale in Calvi a week ahead of schedule. The stories are in today's Figaro. In brief, Regis Marcon of St Bonnet le Froid went to three stars and Les Ambassadeurs + l'Astrance are the Parisian restos that went to two, there are nine others in France. But now the embargo has been broken, it all seems out in the open and the TV Telematin this morning is running a piece on Marcon. I won't go farther since you can easily check it out if interested. Edited by John Talbott Feb 26th to correct typo.
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Should not mean all of February but just the "february school holiday in Paris" which is from February 19th to March 7th. Though I'm surprised it's not mentioned in the Guide... So, I might be wrong... ← Nope you're right - repondeur says "Open again March 7th."
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Today's Figaroscope says that a new place – the Daniel Lounge, at the Hotel Daniel, 8, rue Frederic-Bastiat in the 8th, 01.42.56.17.00, Metro= Franklin Roosevelt, open everyday, 30-50 E a la carte, serves scrambled eggs with truffles.
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Pudlo 2005 says all Feb; Lebey 2005 says 15 days (probably now since Paris schools are on holiday). Ah ha, Gault Millau 2005 and Michelin 2004 both confirm it's only during the school holidays.
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Bakeware, cookware, pan stores, etc in Paris
John Talbott replied to a topic in France: Cooking & Baking
New Cooking "Workshop" “A Nous Paris” announced that as part of Le Viaduc des Arts, Etienne Dulin, maker of copper and tin objects, has just opened a 300 square meter space called l’Atelier des arts culinaires, at 111 av Daumesnil in the 12th, 01.43.40.20.20, featuring 8 different brands covering almost the universe of cooking; e.g. knives, ovens, fryers, food processors, centrifuges {I swear that’s what it says.} Their website is here. It looks kind of upscale but interesting (plus you can imagine Ethan Hawke & Julie Delphy walking over your head). -
I was reminded this morning, when I found out about a new website newsletter Parismarais, dealing exclusively with the Marais, that there are a couple of online resources I use for the Digest that are in English and may be of use to others. There’s Karen Fawcett’s Bonjour Paris which has regular restaurant reviews by Margaret Kemp. You can get the highlights at her website but the full text only comes with a premium subscription. Then there’s Adrian Leed’s ParlerParis, where twice a week, she talks of things Parisian. Of interest to our members is the fact that she calculates that she eats out over 200 times a year at an average of $25 (that’s dollars, with tip and tax) a person, a meal. You can log on via her website. In addition, a print publication, Mark Eversman’s Paris Notes which has online access for subscribers, has monthly restaurant reviews by Rosa Jackson. Finally, there’s David Applefield’s My Mercredi which seems to have been in hibernation for 6 months. He still contributes to the FT weekend edition, so I don’t know what’s up. Normally he can be found here. I wonder if there are other online resources you all find useful and if so, I encourage you to add them here.
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Yes, no. That is, yes, there have been, I'm thinking of Bob Waggoner in Auxerre who ran a spectacular place for a while in the early 1990's but suddenly decamped for the US, becoming quite successful in Charleston. Chris White at Le Timbre is Brit and seems quite successful, does that count? And how about that Aussie restaurant/bar Wooloomoodoo on the bd Henri IV near the Bastille? But I'm scratching for examples; you're correct, if you look at the brain drain, it's in the other direction.
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I've always thought Le Troquet was an under-appreciated gem. As for Wednesday, have you been to La Cerisaie yet? It's relatively new, creative, small, charming husband and wife team and changing food. Or Temps au Temps; ditto for all of the above.
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Bakeware, cookware, pan stores, etc in Paris
John Talbott replied to a topic in France: Cooking & Baking
Not blasphemous at all, it is an annoyance. I recall though, in some areas, the list is hanging up on a hook and often open to the stuff you're in the midst of (eg copper pans). -
The Week of February 14th, 2005 Monday, in Figaro Entreprises, Francois Simon wrote not so much a review as a note about Temps au Temps, coordinates and reviews already posted here several times. He calls it « a little pearl in Paris » with one of the best price-quality ratios (25 E for foie gras, roast partridge and mango crumble for example) he knows but one must reserve and smokers are{Ed note from my experience with this tiny room containing a bar where they congregate – still} a problem. Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, there were three restaurants mentioned. Jerome Berger gave 3/5 blocks to l’Autobus Imperial, 14, rue Mondetour in the 1st, 01.42.36.00.18, closed Sundays, Metro Les Halles, where everyone raves about the ambiance, price (12.50 E menu) and dessert wagon {Ed. Note : except me, I seem alone in not loving this place}. Phillipe Toinard, for his part, gave 2/5 blocks to Le Titi Parisien, 96, bd de la Tour-Maubourg in the 7th, 01.44.18.36.37, closed Sat lunch and Sundays, Metro la Tour-Maubourg. There were three chalk-boards, largely of meats, not marked by provenance. Cold puree, strange service and nothing seemed to work. Finally they give their Coup de couer for the week to Au Grain de Sel, 13, rue Jean-Beausire in the 4th, Metro Bastille, 01.44.59.82.82, closed Saturday lunch and Sunday dinner which is small, has few dishes but they’re good. Lunch menus 20-30 E ; dinner 29-45.50 E. Wednesday, in Zurban, Sebastien Demorand wrote up four places. The lead went to a place just opened with great fanfare by TV Reality Show Star Cyril Lignac called Le Quinzième, 14, rue Cauchy in the 15th, 01.45.54.43.43, Metro Javel, closed Saturdays and Sundays, lunch formula = 40€, dinner degustation menu = 80€, a la carte = 70-80€. The show was called « Oui Chef » and had lots of shouting of « Oui Chef » as Lignac trained his energetic, in-need-of-training, staff. Thus, Demorand’s review is entitled « Moui chef » but reading the review should have been titled « Bah - Non chef. » The long and short of it, Demorand thought the food was not disgraceful but not worth the prices. Indeed, the food doesn’t sound bad; eg dorade and mango tartare, foie gras and cepes raviolis, scallops with bacon and chestnuts but at those prices, ou la la. The other places included one French cafe-bistrot that did have a good price-quality ratio (eg 20 E), Midi Vins, 83, rue du Cherche-Midi in the 6th, 01.45.48.33.71, Metro Vaneau, closed Sundays and Mondays, serving interesting sounding stuff like rabbit’s liver with basil/garlic (eg pesto) sauce, loin of lamb with a lemon crust and an entire camembert for the table; a Swedish tapas {Ed note : what ?) place Trema, 8, rue de Marseille in the 10th, 01.42.49.27.67, Metro = Jacques-Bonsergent, closed Sundays, lunch formula at 12€, a la carte is 30-40€, where he especially appreciated the inexpensive champagne with chorizo and gravlax {Ed Note: OK}; and le Nouveau Nez, 112, rue Saint-Maur in the 11th, 01.43.55.02.30, Metro = Parmentier, closed Sundays, a la carte 10-12€ , yet another wine bistrot selling unsulphered wine plus cheese and cold cuts (charcuterie). I guess I shouldn’t be surprised that Rubin et al covered much the same territory as Demorand this Wednesday in Figaroscope, leading off with the photo and description and two hearts to the XVe Cuisine Attitude, coordinates, etc above, where they also play with the “Oui chef” thing. The dishes described, attitude observed and reaction to prices parallel Demorand’s. {Ed note: did they eat there together?} Then, surprise, the next two hearts goes to Demorand’s next best place as well – Midi-Vins, again, coordinates, dishes, prices above. Rubin, however, notes that the Madame comes from Dix Vins down or up the street and the dishes included: lamb’s kidneys (rose in the center and well done), turbot which was over-cooked and tete de veau. Another two hearts go to La Bourse ou la Vie, 12, rue Vivienne in the 2nd, 01.42.60.08.83, only open for lunch, closed weekends, Metro Bourse where he liked the ham, scallops and kidneys with pureed potatoes for 35 E. And one final 2-hearter L’Actuel, 29, rue Surcouf in the 7th, 01.45.50.36.20 open everyday, Metro = Invalides, where he had a terrine of leeks, with poached egg, poached/grilled quail with celery puree and a blanquette of veal with lots of cream sauce, a la carte about 40 €. And finally, the loser, getting one heart, is Un Jour a Peyrassol, 13, rue Vivienne in the 2nd, {Ed Note: can that be correct, just across from La Bourse ou la Vie?}01.42.60.12.92, open only at lunch, closed weekends, Metro = Bourse where a truffle dished meal can run from 35-70 E and the best seat is in the cellar {there’s something wrong with this picture.} Then the staff’s Dossier is all about rotisseries and lists: Rotisserie du Beaujolais Atelier Maître Albert Le Pere Clause J’Go Rôtisserie d’En Face A.O.C. Le Louchebem Chez Clement Rotisserie de Neuilly Bistrot d’A Côté Neuilly L’Arbuci. L’Avant Seine Les Broches à l’ancienne. However, Francois Simon covers in his Hache Menu the resto at the tennis stadium supposedly overseen by Marc Veyrat of Annecy fame, Roland-Garros, 2 bis, avenue Gordon Bennett in the leafy 16th, 01.47.43.49.56, where I’ll not even describe his meal because it cost him 147 E and he says don’t go : when its bad food, it’s always too expensive. In an article in the “Gouts” section of Le Monde’s Aujourd’hui, Jean-Claude Ribaut has an article entitled “Its the season for truffles.” He mentions several places to go in the south: the Maison de la truffe et du vin du Lubéron , place de l'Horloge in Ménerbes, 04.90.72.52.10, Michel Chabran, 29, avenue du 45e-Parallèle in Pont-de-l'Isère, 04.75.84.60.09, menus = 32 €, 48 €, 85 € and155 € and the truffle menu = 220 €, a la carte without truffles count on 95 €, and Auberge La Fenière, route de Cadenet in Lourmarin, 04.90.68.11.79, menus at 46 € and 72 € and the truffle degustation menu at 110 €. In addition, he wrote in his Toques en Pointe, two other reviews of places in the south: Le Passage in Aix-en-Provence, 04.42.37.09.00, formula at 26,50 €, menu = 35 €, brunch Sundays is 28 €, the Bistrot des clercs in Valence, 04.75.55.55.15, closed Sunday nights, menu = 27 €, formula 18 €, plus the venerable (since 1923) Parisian place Thoumieux, 79, rue Saint-Dominique in the 7th, 01.47.05.49.75, open everyday, menu of Correze (tete a l’ancienne and veal’s head Correze style) = 33 € with wine, a la carte count on 45 €, where he mentions the cepes fricassee, herring and potatoes in oil, leeks vinaigrette, cassoulet, boudin, tripes, tete de veau, grandmotherly desserts, and excellent wine list heavily stocked with Bordeaux. In his “Croque Notes,” Friday, entitled a cute “Piques et Pic” Francois Simon writes elegantly about the well-known restaurant Pic in Valence; 04.75.44.15.32, which despite its intimidating front, is one of the few starred places really worth a detour, especially for its supremes of chicken. He also mentions that the team from the Sainte Amarante, in the 12th has opened another place, the Chant d'Avril 2, rue Laennec in Nantes, open only at lunch, and offers a terrific formula at 15E. In Jean Miot’s “Propos de Table,” his title is True or false bistrots. He starts by noting that le Lauriston, 129, rue Lauriston in the 16th, 01.47.27.00.07, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, lunch menu 25 E, a la carte 45 E., serves true bourgeois food, got Claude Lebey’s 2005 Parisian Bistrot of the Year Award. But he says we think of bistrots as aging elephantine places with rustic tables, where in fact they’re either false, mediocre bobo-bistrots or really fine restaurants, and this is the latter. He then says that changes in ownership are always fraught with anxiety but we should have no concern in the case of the well-known Spanish place, the Casa Alcalde, 117, bd de Grenelle in the 15th, 01.47.83.39.71, open everyday with a menu at 28 €, a la carte 40/50 €. A full page of Friday’s Figaro is devoted to yogurt(s). Alexandra Michot wrote an article on yogurts in her “Products” section, which told me more about yogurt than I wanted/needed to know. To help one out, she wrote a lexicon explaining the difference between: yogurt, fermented milk and probiotic products. Then she interviews Alain Passard of Arpege in the 7th about yogurt’s utilization (in soups, vegetable soufflé, gazpacho, ice cream) and under-utilization in France and I’ll direct you to the story yourself. Finally, she has a piece on the Milk Exhibition in the Cité Nature of Arras, 25, boulevard Schuman from Tuesday to Saturday. Information at 03.21.21.59.59 and their website. Friday Patricia Wells wrote an article in the IHT on where she ate in NYC; for our interest it was Bellavitae, The Bar Room at The Modern + The Modern, Per Se, Cafe Gray, + Le Bernardin, the latter she calls “the best fish restaurant in the world.” In Bonjour Paris, whose interesting content is only available by premium subscription, there are two recent articles on food of interest. First, Margaret Kemp, wrote about Music Hall, 63, avenue Franklin-Roosevelt in the 8th, 01.45.61.03.63, closed Sundays, open other days 11 AM to 6 AM; lunch = 27E, a la carte is 50 E at dinner plus the wine. The second article is by Clotilde Dusoulier and it concerns a glorified bakery with tarts, salads, scones, etc., the Rose Bakery, 46, rue des Martyrs in the 9th, 01.42.82.12.80, open only at lunch for12 E, where she’s never had a bad meal despite the fact that Madame is British. FYI, Gayot has just added DB Restaurant to its list of ‘New and Notable” restos that also lists: Le Brunch du Crillon, l’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Le Murano, DeVèz, Le Pavillon des Princes, Maison Rouge, Delizie D'Uggiano, Kayser, + Flora. In l’Express, Jean-Luc Petitrenaud reviews Grain de Sel in Cogolin, 04.94.54.46.86, menu at 33 E and Goupil, 4 rue Claude-Debussy in the 17th, 01.45.74.83.25, run by a 23 year old, where he liked the beef, potatoes, boudin noir, etc., a la carte 50 E. In her Paris In Sites newsletter, Linda Thalman recommends Le Pyrene in Saumur, 02.41.51.31.45, closed Sunday nights and Mondays, serving regional specialties, a la carte about 28 Euros. There was an article in the Paris Insights Discover Paris newsletter called “Warming the Heart, on hot chocolates, naming: La Charlotte en L’Isle, Le Rostand, Dalloyau Angelina Jean-Paul Hévin. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.