John Talbott

The Week of April 18th, 2005 Monday, Francois Simon’s Tables d’Affaires reviewed the relatively (? 2 year old) new resto Histoire Gourmande, 46, rue Croix-des-Petits-Champs in the 1st, across from the Bank of France {Ed Note : if you’ve never been inside the Bank, it’s impressive in a horrid way}, 01.42.60.25.54, closed Sundays and Mondays, serving peppers stuffed with vinegared cuttlefish, free range chicken breast with reduced olive juice, tuna « nuts » in sesame seeds. The formula is 26.50 and menu {Ed Note : I learned from Lebey}= 30 Euros. He gives it 4/5 stars on its cuisine and 3/5 on price/quality and calls it one of the hidden treasures {my trans}of the area. The subtitle of his piece is « Not bad at all ! » Monday/Tuesday, A Nous Paris awarded 3/5 blocks to two places : Philippe Toinard liked Millesimes 62, 13-15, place de Catalogne in the 14th, 01.43.35.34.35, lunch at the bar = 13, market menu = 19 or 24, menu-carte 24 and 26E, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, whose name, one correctly infers, means there are lots of good wines by the glass, among them some fine 1962’s, also serving marinated tuna, gnocchis with parmesan, scallops with endives and creme brulee (Happy Hour lovers should note that between 7 and 8 PM one gets a free glass for every one consumed). Then, Jerome Berger similarly praised the reborn (it was Chez Jean) L’Echappee, 38, rue Boyer in the 20th, 01.47.97.44.58, formulas at lunch 11, 12 and 15 E, dinner at 16 E, a la carte = 30 E, closed Tuesday, Saturday and Sunday lunch, serving everything from tajines to boudin noir and terrine of chicken livers with piment d’espelette to creme brulee with lavender {isn’t that what everyone is doing this Spring ?} In Monday’s Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp once again raves {rightly in my opinion} about Dominique Bouchet, in her ”Buzz” column. Monday as well, Postcard from Paris’s Amber Garrison recommends the Ethiopian resto Godjo, near the Pantheon in the 5th, which is quite inexpensive (10 Euros per person), especially for large groups who can sit in the cellar. Wednesday’s Figaroscope’s “C’est nouveau”gave the lead, photo and 2 hearts to Le Vin de Soif, 24, rue Pierre-Leroux in the 7th, 01.43.06.79.85, open everyday, cooking classic bistro fare (sardines, andouillette, which was too lukewarm) with a great wine-cellar, cost = 35 E, lunch formula at 12 E; two hearts as well to Maoki, a sushi place in the 11th already mentioned here. Then there’s one heart to Les Colock, coordinates above as well, where Rubin had much the same take as Demorand –nice folks, too bad about the food; one heart also to le Bouquet des Archives, 31, rue des Archives in the 4th, 01.42.72.08.49, open everyday, metro Hotel de Ville, open everyday, costing 35 E for entrecote, fries, crème caramel under a new team’s direction. A broken heart was given to Ossek Garden in the 11th, a crypto-Korean place. This week’s Dossier could be a godsend to folks who dine in their hotels or want to {Ed Note: because these links have expiration dates, I’ll print it out for future inquiries, even though it has no numbers or hearts or other ratings}. Anyway, here’s their list: Neo-Classics La Table du Lancaster Café Faufourg Les Muses Les Orchidees – Le Grill L’Astor Senso Also Pinxo, Murano Urban Resort, Le Meurice, Le Jardin des Cygnes, 234 Rivoli, Les Elysees de Vernet, Le Belier, Le Jardin, La Place The eclectics Le Safran Daniel Lounge Hotel de Sers Also Café Lenotre The outsiders Café de la Paix Angl’Opera And, as usual, Francois Simon gets to go to one, in this case: l’Obelisque in the Crillion, 10, place de la Concorde in the 8th, 01.44.71.15.15, Piege’s “second” (to his two-starred Ambassadeurs) resto. Is it good? Not bad; Must you go? Answer a Simonism; Is it expensive? Cost=89 E for one. Wednesday, as well, Sebastien Demorand in Zurban devoted his major review to La Canaille, 4, rue Crillon in the 4th, 01.42.78.09.71, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, formulas at 12.50 (lunch) and 17 (dinner), menus: 15.80-26 E (lunch) and 21-29 E (dinner), in which he devotes 90% of his space to the owner’s history, the bistro’s 30 year old existence, the posters, etc.; and a bit to the food – Corsican cold cuts, fried shrimp, confit de canard, entrecote as well as good and abundant bio wines. His other three reviews are probably not of much interest to our members: a Kiwi {as in inhabitant of NZ not the fruit} place, Kiwi Corner in the 6th, another Japanese-fusion type place a la Carte Postales, Stella Maris, etc., Harumi in the 15th, and a place with an Italian name, Giufeli, 129, rue du Chateau in the 14th, 01.43.27.32.56, closed Saturday lunch, Sundays and Monday lunch, that Demorand {and an American friend living here} say is quite good, not totally Italian, non-smoking and quite reasonable (20E for the menu – caviar of eggplant, pork with honey and pannacotta). ParuVendu, that occasionally distributed free newspaper had two sets of reviews of interest recently. March 31st they listed their favorite tables d’hotes (that is communal tables): Chez Denise, Grandterroirs, George, Mon Vieil Ami. April 14th they gave their favorite Paris bistros {EN: we’ve discussed this matter of what constitutes a bistro before, some here are elegant restaurants}: Auguste, Natasha, Le Coude Fou, Tokyo Eat, Terasse Mirabeau. Thursday-Friday, Le Monde’s Jean-Claude Ribaut not so much critiqued, but reported positively on Regis Marcon’s resto Auberge et Clos des Cimes, 43290 in Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid in the Auvergne, 04.71.59.93.72, menus 95 E (2 dishes), 110 E (3 plates), 135 E (degustation = 5 dishes). Saturday, Francos Simon, in Figaro’s Croque Notes returned to Auguste, 54 rue de Bourgogne, 01.45.51.61.09 at the urging of a lady on the avenue de la Motte-Piquet who charged that the critics are too dependant on press releases and media buzz, in this case about the resto’s price/quality ratio. In any case, he had an OK meal among the suits, says it’s a place for certain types, and clearly was not only not dazzled but again surprised by the cost (35E for 2 dishes). He goes on to say the self-same lady recommended a place across the street with an impossible name with reasonable prices and that night he ate there with banal results, no coordinates given {Ed Note:but Goggling came up with Michel Courtalhac, 47, rue de Bourgogne in the 7th, 01.45.55.15.35, and the fact that it is much loved by Alice Waters.} In Saturday’s Figaro, in a section titled “En bref,” there is yet another announcement that Yves Camdebord is is in business, which contradicts the buzz that said he would not be cooking until mid-May- NB: present tenses are used (e.g., “s’est installe, lui officie”), 20 covers, no reservations, 40E a la carte. Corrdinates = Le comptoir du Relais, 5, carrefour de l’Odeon in the 6th, no telephone. Sunday – the JDD’s Astrid De T’Serclaes interviewed Gilles Choukroun (Café des Delices, Angl’Opera). I’m including it here because for those of us who like his fusion food successes, it’s interesting to see where he gets his spices and other products, eg, at: Izrael, Massis Bleue, La Grande Epicerie, Tang, Le Palais des Thes + Oliviers & CO. Postcards From Paris’s Amber Garrison recommends an Italian place Sardegna a Tavola in the 12th .which she says serves the “most authentic Italian cuisine” in Paris. And then, the appearance of Omnivore this week excited me, but unfortunately for me and this Digest, there was little on French food in France, although there is much on the Japanese-French connection as well as pieces on restaurants in Australia and Montreal and French wines in New York. There is an intelligent discussion by Luc Dubranchet, its editor, on the new Michelin Red Guide for 2005, but it’s hard to summarize. Eric Roux also has a nice article featuring the ephemeral products that are now available: eg., thyme, sage, rosemary, mint, tarragon and something known as “asperule oderante,” or “petit muguet” a relative of lily-of-the-valley it seems. This is perhaps more than you want to know about penguins, but in the French government supported English magazine FranceGuide2004, one sees what the French, the French government and/or the ubiquitous English-writing food critic Alexander (sic) Lobrano thinks Americans will want to do on a weekend visit, including eating. Here they are, in the order he presents them : breakfast at the Cafe de Flore or Cafe aux Deux Magots, lunch at Georges or the Cafe Marly, dinner at a neighborhood bistro, next day’s lunch at a brasserie and dinner at one of the following : Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee, Pierre Gagniere, Taillevent. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Thursday, the annual GUIDE ZURBAN Restos & Bistrots {Ed Note: and take-out places} appeared. There are several things that make it very reader-friendly; first are the maps of each arrondissement with food places noted (thus when folks say they’re staying in the 11th, or 17th, etc and want places to eat nearby – it’s a cinch); second, there’s a handy summary in the front that lists dishes, atmospheric places, places above the atmosphere, where to go with whom, eating at any hour, etc. and an index in the back with an alphabetic listing, foreign places and cuisine/resto genres. And third, as opposed to almost every other guide, there are very nice photos. Finally, though there are no numbers or stars, etc., they designate places to go under 30 E or over 30 E as well as Zurban’s favorites in almost every arrondissement: Une Journee a Peyrassol 2nd Les Don Juan 3rd Louis Vins 5th Le 5 Mars 7th La Table de Lancaster 8th Autour d’un Verre 9th Le Temps Au Temps 11th La Pibale 12th Bida Saigon 13th La Cerisaie 14th L’Ami Marcel 15th Chapeau Melon 19th Au Boeuf Gros Sel 20th Edited by John Talbott to correct mistakes in listings.

No to complicate things, but in Saturday’s Figaro, in a section titled “En bref,” there is yet another announcement that Yves Camdebord is in business, which contradicts the buzz that said he would not be cooking until mid-May- NB: once again, present tenses are used (e.g., “s’est installe, lui officie”), 20 covers, no reservations, 40E a la carte, no telephone.

Laidback, thank you for the correction, which I've made in the Digest as well. You are correct, Louis Vins is open 7/7 according to its friendly mustache/bearded host.

I was just passing down Richard Lenoir this afternoon on a bus (I know, it doesn't run there, but there was a manif) and I saw nothing. Also Pudlo lists nothing in the 11th for cheese. The great cheese places, Alleosse, Cantin, Androuet, are pretty far away. But as I keep saying here, everything is nearby in Paris. The Repaire de Cartouche in the 11th has camembert "straight from the farm." Good eating!

Ditto; we were over there just a bit ago and loved it. Be interested in what you like. Are you going to the Royal Salt Works and Arc et Senans and the "ideal town", it's one of the most wonderful undiscovered monuments in France. Worth a detour. Also interesting in terms of Ledoux's role in building the toll houses surrounding Paris.

This is marginally on topic. 1. There's a gym not far from you on the Bd St Germain towards the Monde Arab, probably can be found by Googling it, (topic - it's not far from Atlas.) 2. If you haven't read Adam Gopnik's piece on Gyms in Paris - do - Bux is right. (topic - Gopnik cares about food.) 3. My ex-Gym had some very serious muscle men with very evident sweat, but (Topic) the women upstairs were definately more interested in limiting their portion sizes than losing moisture.

Yup I've got two within two blocks and I'm in a most un-PC area.

Just found my list of specials: Tues - Veal's liver Weds - Roast chicken Thurs- Rabbit Fri - Ray Sat - young duck

Latest news in today's Figaroscope is that it has only 20 covers and has been previously mentioned: is familial, 50E priced, no reservations or telephone. I make no promises but the verbs in the interview are present tense. It's not posted on the website yet, sometimes it takes days to go up, sometimes never - key words if you try to search later are Yves Camdeborde and Colette Monsat (who did the interview). Title: "Nous voulons une ambiance tres familiale." As was also previously reported, it's called the Comptoir du Relais, 5, Carrefour de l'Odeon in the 6th.

Recall that everything is reachable by metro in minutes; anyway db is a few blocks from any bus or metro on a funny upside down U street.

Well, that's why I wrote that Mallet would probably find local goat cheeses at markets, for they are the only cheeses artisanally made in Brittany, but not as typically Breton cheeses ← Not to be redundant but where I go off Brittany it's all goat cheese, and while goat is not my favorite, it suffices. To get cow, you gotta go Northeast.

He's had a hand in A & M Bistrot, A & M Marée, + le 6 New York

Aside from the place I mentioned in the Digest, there's Table de Lucullus although whether the Nicholas Vagnon has departed to set up his new place on the Ile de Yeu yet I don't know. Around where he (Nicholas) was/is (nr Metro La Fourche) there must be a half dozen places that have opened up in the past 2 years. L'Entredgeu gets great reviews and eGullet comments (I'm not so hot on it), Guy Savoy ditto regarding great reviews & comments, I was disappointed at La Cabane; thought Caius was a deception in both French and English senses of the word, Astree good but not been in a while, like (as do most others) Abadache, always loved Beatilles, someone warned me off Baptiste but I liked it long ago, there's discussion somewhere here on the Caves Petrissans where I've only sampled the wine, used to like Paolo Petini but heard negative things recently, love Petit Colombier but its a game season place, Petit Gervex is wildly off/on, haven't been to Tante Jeanne in years. Cannot help on cheese and patisserie, but the Poncelet Market (arguably the best cheese in the city) is not so far; where exactly will you be in the 17th, then others who shop there may be of more help than I can be.

My list includes: Thierry Burlot terrific L'Astree quite good definately not Cafe Moderne

To add to Zouave's note: if you haven't been to the region in a while, the wines will be a pleasant surprise; great price-quality and breadth-depth ratios.

Yes. ← I think that while most critics and commentators like the food - the prices, ambience (or lack of it), seating and doors that only open from inside - have put off most of us serial-eaters there. I read Bittman's piece as not so positive, see the Digest today. So many great places to go, why waste time on imperfection?

The Week of April 11th, 2005 Monday in Figaro Entreprises Francois Simon, in his Table d’Affaires reviewed Le Pavillion, at the Marriott Hotel, 70, av des Champs-Elysées in the 8th, 01.53.93.55.00, closed Saturdays and Sundays, where the approach to the place sounds horrid (silicone and sitcom), but the food while not gastronomically tops is good and the product fresh and well-prepared. No prices are given. Monday/Tuesday, A Nous Paris carried an interview with Yohann Paran of Beauvilliers. Since no blocks were awarded nor judgments made about the food, readers will have to consult prior reviews. Wednesday, Sebastien Demorand reviewed his usual four. First up was the offshoot of La Famille, Le Refectoire coordinates in prior Digests; they serve different things on different days for lunch at 12-15 Euros for the formula and 17 E for the menu, eg Mondays ravioli, Tuesday stuffed tomatoes, Wednesday ham and potatoes, Thursday fried veal scallop, Friday fish, Saturday chicken and chips, Sunday leg of lamb and haricots; dinners totally different = 30-35 E: his take: generally quite positive (staff, wines, inventiveness) albeit it was decorated by a guy on LSD and they may be taking themselves too “seriously.” In addition, he reports on two reprises, one successful, the other, not so. First the good news: l’Echappee, ex-Chez Jean (Jean has departed), 38, rue Boyer in the 20th, 01.47.97.44.58, closed Mondays (lunch is Weds-Fri; dinner Tues-Sun), menus at 18.50 E (lunch) to 23 E (dinner) (20e), 01 47 97 44 58, is back with good bio wines and “true” dishes such as a terrine, boudin and creme brulee with lavender. However, l’Actuel, 29, Rue Surcouf in the 7th, 01.45.50.36.20, open everyday, metro La Tour Maubourg, costing about 38 E a la carte, which has undergone its third change in fewer years (maybe the space is cursed), serves tuna salad with 5 spices, morue with smoked lentils and capers and apple strudel but it lacks zing. Finally he likes Naoki a Japanese place in the 11th for its prices (menus = 15-25 E, a la carte = 23-36) and variety, despite its delivery of food. Wednesday as well, Emmanuel Rubin and/or Figaroscope did something that always puzzles me; give the lead, story and photo to a one-star, when there’s a two star in the second column. Anyway, the lead went to Le Standard, 36 bis, rue de Sablonville in Neuilly, 01.47.22.66.63, open everyday except Sundays, Metro = Les Sablons, costing about 35 Euros; with a young, amateurish but enthusiastic team in a nice setting serving scallops carpaccio with truffle oil and grilled salmon with a gratin of veggies. The two-stars went to La Dinee’s new offshoot - La Plancha de la Dinee, 85, rue Leblanc in the 15th, 01.45.54.54.04, open every weekday, Metro Balard, also about 35 E, serving a curried petoncle salad, lobster salad, confited duck, etc. The other 3 one hearts went to the {unrelated} place next door Chez Blanchette, 83, rue Leblanc in the 15th, 01.45.58.16.00, open everyday except Saturday lunch and Sundays, Metro Balard obviously, serving for 25-30 Euros eggs meurette, sirloin and beef tartare, La Cave du Cochon 18, rue Jacquemont in the 17th, 01.42.28.99.38, open everyday except Sundays, Metro = La Fourche {Ed Note : except for the 11th and 12th, this is the hottest new resto area}, an offshoot of the bistro La Tete de Goinfre, serving mayo eggs, cote de boeuf and chocolate mousse for about 30 Euros, and a Chilean “cantina” Santa Sed 32, rue des Vinaigriers in the 10th, 01.40.37.72.19, open evenings only Tuesday-Saturday, and costing 20-25 E. In the “Dossier” this week, the editorial team chose places with “new” ingredients from A-Z, except it’s really B (butter that’s artisinal) -W (wasabi), as follows Beurre Bordier La Muse Vin Citronelle Music Hall Eau Chateldon Plaza Athenee + Ducasse annexes Fleur de Sel Thierry Burlot Frites Maison Relais Lagrange Huitres Label Belons de Cadoret Jabugo Jambon Cuisine Attitude Pain Eric Kayser Alcazar Piment d’Espelette Rue Balzac Thon Rouge 1728 Quinoa Pinxo Risotto Chez Pierre au Palais-Royal Souris d’Agneau La Rotisserie d’En Face Vins Bio Le Repaire de Cartouche Wasabi Market Francois Simon’s “Hache Menu” was devoted to the “oh so trendy” Murano, 13, bvd du Temple in the 4th, 01.42.71.20.00, where the bill was a very high 188 Euros for two for a mesclun salad in a glass [sic], open range chicken a la Hawaiian and a sugary dessert concoction, followed by coffee which they hadn’t ordered. As always, he asks “Must one go?” Reply: It’s commendable, but there are better places (clearly meaning for the price.) In Wednesday’s Postcards from Paris, Amber Garrison noted that she preferred the take-out coffee from the French-owned chain Columbus Café to Starbucks {for what that’s worth to our members who I suspect would rather linger at a dingy zinc in the quartier}. Sunday, Mark Bittman in the New York Times, wrote about the 98 Euro prix fixe meal at L’Atelier de Robuchon, coordinates already well-noted here. He notes both the good (“absolutely delicious” and fun) and bad (reservation policy, Woolworth-style counters and mashed potatoes) parts of dining there. The Spring issue of France, which is devoted to Versailles, features an article by Alexandre Lazareff on the venerable Trois Marches, at the Trianon Palace Hotel, 1 bd de la Reine in Versailles, 01.39.50.13.21, weekday lunch menu at 58 E, tasting menu at 180 E, a la carte will run 110-180 E, now featuring a special menu food from Marie-Antoinette’s era: 7 courses are 200 E and it must be ordered 2 days in advance. The April 4th New Yorker had an article by Adam Gopnik, ex-Paris correspondent for that magazine, on various books, one of which, in addition to eGullet's own Steven Shaw's "Turning the Tables : Restaurants from the Inside Out," (HarperCollins, July 2005)" is of interest to us on the France Forum. It is Rudolph Chelminski’s bio of Bernard Loiseau called “The Perfectionist: Life and Death in Haute Cuisine” (Gotham, $27.50). Not too much is new to those who have read William Echikson’s “Burgundy Stars” and know a bit about Loiseau (e.g. his depression, fear of losing a star and ultimate suicide as well as concern that patrons love every dish), except his one flaw in the kitchen, which was an inability to make “basic sauces.” Edited by John Talbott to eliminate bolding problem and make Gopnik reference more inclusive. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

My opinion (most non-comments are because I haven't been in a year or two): Le Regalade - yes L'Os a Moelle Chez Catherine - now pricey La Fontaine de Mars - no Chez Dumonet Ambassade d'Auvergne Le Dome du Marais - wonderful setting Le Coude Fou L'Entredgeu Mon Vieil Ami - yes L'Epi Dupin Au Bon Accueil -definately Chez l'Ami Jean D'Chez Eux Cafe Constant - yes Chez Jean Chez Michel Le Repaire de Cartouche yes for a certain mood Au Trou Gascon (ok, I doubt it will work) L'Ourcine - been found De Lagarde - as Felice says, he's at Beauvilliers which has a higher price/quality ration than most reviewers like.

Correct; get there at noon and you'll be fine as Laidback suggests. Check out the Board for their daily specials before selecting a date; they rotate but stay the same on the same day. As for elsewhere, I love Mon Vieil Ami; am the only person I know who doesn't shine to Villaret and L'Ami Jean; why not Cerisaie, Ze Kitchen Galerie, Cinq Mars, Dominique Bouchet?

Also, by the end of the month, the Zurban guide of restaurants, bistrots and wine bars will appear. It will have places that have opened this last year up to a few weeks ago, along with maps showing where each is in their arrondissement. Ironically, Zurban, which started off as a web-based publication, no longer posts the info on line.

The Week of April 4th, 2005 Monday in Figaro Entreprises Francois Simon’s Table d’Affaires reviewed the venerable fish restaurant, whose dishes sometimes are a bit much, Goumard, 9, rue Duphot in the 1st, 01.42.60.36.07, open every day all year long {Ed. Note: except the beginning two weeks of August}, which he gives 3/5 stars for the cuisine and welcome, 2/5 for the price/quality ratio and only 1/5 for the (dull) atmosphere {which I disagree with}, luncheon menu is 40 Euros. Monday-Tuesday, A Nous Paris Jerome Berger reviewed the hot resto of the month: Le Refectoire, 80 bd Richard Lenoir in the 11th, 01.48.06.74.85, open everyday with menus at 12, 15 and 17 Euros. He gave it 3/5 blocks and everything he mentions sounds fun and good. As well, Philippe Toinard reviewed Goupil Le Bistro, 4, rue Claude-Debussy in the 17th, 01.45.74.83.25, count on 30-35 Euros a la carte, closed Saturday and Sunday, also meriting 3/5 blocks, chef’d by a 23 year old daring guy, trained by Jean-Pierre Vigato; downside, the kitchen opens on the dining room. Wednesday, Figaroscope’s Emmanuel Rubin did his usual “C’est nouveau,” reviewing five places; he awarded only 2/4 hearts to Beauvilliers, 52, rue Lamarck in the 18th, 01.42.55.05.42, closed Sunday night and Mondays, which for the price seems a stretch (a la carte = 70; menu at 45E {NB a bit different than those given by Zurban’s Sebastien Demorand of a lunch formula at 35 and a la carte 60 E}) even for nice sounds dishes (which he describes as “not winning,” without emotion” and “wise.”) He also gave one heart each to the other four places: Harold, 48, rue de Prony in the 17th , 01.47.63.96.96, open every day, lunch formula at 19.50 E, a la carte = 45-55E, where the dishes are eclectic (sushi, carpaccio, risotto) but inflated; La Cafetiere, 21, rue Mazarine in the 6th, 01.46.33.76.90, open everyday except Sundays and Mondays, menu-carte = 26 E {Ed Note: for my take see here} with things he describes as banal but good, De Mets, 26, bd Poissonierre in the 9th, 08.70.68.26.25, open everyday but Sundays 8:30 AM-7 PM, soups and sandwiches for 10-20E and La Tete Ailleurs, 20, rue Beautrellis in the 4th, 01.42.72.47.80, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, lunch formula at 13.50, a la carte 35-40 E, serving sardines with veggies and osso buco with too much risotto, {where even reading between the lines it’s not clear why it got just one heart}. In Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week, the gang covered Cafes with themes which are somewhat strange {EN: excuse my attempts at translations}: Soul-mate search Drole d’endroit Billiards Le Blue Billiard Clairvoyance No Stress Cafe Philosophy Café des Phares Psychotherapy/Psychology/Psychiatry Café Psycho For planning trips Zango Cairo-type cafe Andy Whaloo Writing workshops Les Editeurs La Belle Hortense Parlor games Apparemment Cafe Drink prices pegged to the Dow-Jones (eg CAC40) Footsie A mixture of antiques & books L’Estanco In his Hache Menu, Francois Simon, on a rainy Saturday afternoon, takes {I assume his} two kids off to a magic performance and workshop at Double Fond, 1 pl du Marche St-Honore in the 4th, 01.42.71.40.20, performances Wednesday at 4 PM, workshop at 5:30 PM and Saturday performances at 2:30 PM and 4:30 PM, workshops at 3:30 and 5:30 PM. 9 Euros for each per person. Wednesday as well, Zurban’s Sebastien Demorand checks in with his usual four reviews. First, he reviewed the re-incarnated Les Anges, 54, bd de la Tour-Maubourg in the 7th, 01.47.05.89.86, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, a la carte 45-50E, ex-Michelli, ex-Chez les Anges, with a chef and staff partially derived from Au Bon Acceuil and really likes it, from the haddock to the liver and kidneys, save for the banal desserts. He also loved, really loved – indeed, it’s his selection of the year in that area - a bistrot with great wines called Louis Vins, 9, rue de la Montagne-Ste-Genevieve in the 5th, 01.43.29.12.12, open every day, formula 23, menu-carte 26 E, but CAUTION - no Credit Cards taken yet. On the other hand, his review of Miss Betsey, 23, rue Guillaume-Tell in the 17th, 01.42.67.12.67, closed Sundays and Mondays, formula at 23 E, menu-carte at 27E, is tepid, despite their veggie oriented attempt at a neo-bistrot style. {I can’t get excited about yet another Mexican restaurant,} this one called Cielito Lindo, 17-19, rue de Lappe in the 11th, 01.43.57.91.12, dinner only, closed Sundays, a la carte 25-30E. He slips in here that his Zurban guide of restos and bistrots is finished and will be out by the end of April {good news; its maps and descriptions are very helpful.} Also on Wednesday, the New York Times had an article by Craig Smith on steak (beef and horse) tartare, in which he mentions three places in Paris where one can get it: the Bar des Theatres, La Favorite + le Restaurant du Palais Royal. In Thursday/Friday’s Le Monde, Jean-Claude Ribaut reviews three restaurants; Le Petel, 4, rue Petel in the 15th, 01.45.32.58.76, closed Sundays and Mondays, lunch formula at 18 E and a la carte 29E, a bistro recently reprised by Michel Marie with an original chalkboard, solid technique, serving fresh, South-West product and dishes (ox tail with sweetbreads in Cheverny wine sauce); Harumi, 99, rue Blomet also in the 15th, 01.42.50.22.27, closed Sunday evening and Mondays (eg open Saturday and Sunday for lunch), with a menu at 25 E and 31-38 E a la carte, serving classic cuisine (eg veal kidneys) with a light touch of Japanese products (wasabi, soy, citronelle, sesame, ginger); and Meating, 122, avenue de Villiers in the 17th, 01.43.90.10.10, (the ex-Apicius space), little formula for 29 E, a la carte about 50 E, with a young New York chef trained by Rostang serving Irish and French beef. Friday, in the IHT, Patricia Wells reviewed Dominique Bouchet, 11 Rue Treilhard in the 8th, 01.45.61.09.46, closed Saturdays and Sundays, about 55 Euros without wine, and like almost everyone else, loved it. Of interest though, is the fact that she liked the Beaufort cheese appetizer (which Sebastien Demorand did not) and found the 7 hour lamb sauce over-reduced. Then again on Friday, Francois Simon’s “Croque Notes” seems to be written {Ed Note: although with him, I can never be sure} to complain about the prices and non-currency of Alain Passard, 84, rue de Varenne 01.45.51.47.33, who when he should be serving the best of fresh Spring veggies, charges a lot for winter ones with truffles. He repeats each price twice, for example the gratin of onions with truffles is 80 €, eighty euros, etc, and suggests that, in contrast, one can get a bowl of soup at a Chinese place for 5 € on the Rue Ste-Anne. He got out for 410 Euros {for how many?} by avoiding the prohibitively priced wines. Sunday’s New York Times contained an article by Ann Morrison as part of the “Frugal Traveler” series that mentions the Café Constant + Brasserie Le Cardinal. Also of interest is the 102 Euro room she found on the top floor of the Hotel-Dieu Hospital (01.44.32.01.00) as well as the Hotel Wallace for $92.00/day (01.45.78.83.30). Margaret Kemp, in the Premium Subscription version of Bonjour Paris, also reviews Beauvilliers, 52 rue Lamarck in the 18th, 01.42.55.05.42, closed Mondays, seasonal menu = 35 E, other menus 63-80 Euros, which she terms a “cantine for the rich and famous.” She notes that the menu is not expensive, {EN: in this she differs from Zurban} the chef (ex DelaGarde) uses flowers in the food, and has a completely different menu than under the prior regime. She loved it, calls the chef a “brilliant young talent,” and thinks the prices are good. I think I’ve been remiss in not citing another of her reviews in a prior edition. It’s the most venerable fish resto, La Maree, 1 rue Daru in the 8th , 01.43.80.20.00, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with a 60 E menu and an anniversary lunch menu starting May 1st of 40 Euros. She mentions the langoutine starter and mains of sole and St-Pierre as well as the cheese from Alleosse. In Postcards from Paris Amber Garrison writes up the Pure Café, 14 rue Jean Mace in the 11th, 01.43.71.47.22, 20-30 Euros, where she highly recommends the ostrich steak and chocolate fondue. {In case you recognize the facade, it was featured in Before Sunset.} L’Express just published a group-written article on the 100 best bistros in France for under 30 Euros, that includes the following in Paris: Dix Vins, Le Calmont, L'Ami Marcel, Jacques Mélac, Le Réveil du Xe, Le Barricou, Au vin des rues, Le Vin des, L'Ami Jean, Aux négociants, Chez Michel, L'Ourcine, Le Temps au temps, L'Abadache, Le Rubis, L'Entredgeu, L'Equitable, Le Pamphlet, Café Constant, La Cerisaie, L'Epi Dupin, Le Beurre noisette, L'Affriolé, Le Père tranquille, Bistrot Paul Bert, Le Timbre, L'Opportun, Le Villaret, Le Baratin, Le Troquet, Le Bistral, Les Papilles, La Petite Auberge, Le Pré Verre, L'Ebauchoir, Midi Vins, 1929, Les Dessous de la robe, La Biche au bois, La Grange Batelière, La Famille, L'Avant-Goût. Edited by John Talbott to correct info on opening days of Louis Vins. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

I have been treated rudely twice in 20 years in Paris, both times by non-French shop people. It's an undeserved reputation in my opinion.

I've twice booked private rooms not only so I don't get the "what the...jelly..." questions but also in order to better converse with friends. They were both under your price. The first, which admittedly is better in game season, is le Petit Colombier, in the 17th; the second, Terminus Nord, a Flo brasserie, in the 10th. Both held about 10 folks. Au Bon Acceuil in the 7th has a room with several tables that can be used for a group but has a fairly wide opening into the salon; likewise the Restaurant W at the Warwick hotel but I think it would only seat 6. My memory as always betrays me at moments like this but one of the guidebooks has a list of restos with private rooms. I simply cannot lay my hands on it now. In any case, some places will give you a good price for a set albeit elaborate menu, while others just prefer you to order from the carte.

You should check out this thread. Also I should mention that in late September we ate at Le Bistrot des Halles, so-so but inexpensive dinner for 63 E; Stephane Derbord, not bad at all for 108 Euros; and schlepped out to the best of the three restaurants, in Prenois, L'Auberge de la Charme, for 97 Euros. Because I was on holiday from my Paris duties, I took lousy notes. However, if the truth be told, our most interesting meal was a huge sit-down catered affair at the Clos Vougeot estate with singing and dancing and very, very fine wine.