Holly Moore

While I'm not a fan of cell phones in restaurants, on a couple of occasions, when the floor staff is either absent or totally unattentive, I've called the restaurant and asked them to track down my server. I particularly hate being held hostage at the end of the meal, being ready to leave and no one either presents the check and/or comes to pick up the payment. As far as what actually makes me leave. Most often it's the noise level. At places where it is so loud that I can't talk with others at the table, I'm gone. It's not just music, that can be turned down upon request. Some restaurants seem to be intentionally designed to heighten the noise. There is a very successful restaurateur in Philadelphia that wants a high noise level because it makes the places seem always busy.

I once did a column "Zen and the Art of Vegetable Soup Making." The whole process is theraputic / meditative, from selecting the vegetables in the market(s) to the peeling, dicing, chopping, stirring, skimming, tasting, to ladeling out a steaming bowl, the contemplating and, eventually the slurping.

Pepperpot soup is indeed a Philadelphia creation. However, where might one encounter a noteworthy Pepperpot Soup in Philadelphia?

Bilmo's doubt sent me to "The Larder Invaded, Reflections on Three Centuries of Philadelphia Food and Drink" by Mary Ann-Hines, Gofdon Marshall and William Woys Weaver. Cream Cheese: A cheese produced by dairies to the west of the City (Philadelphia) in the 18th and 19th centuries. It was made from fresh cream thickened and pressed into cages aged from three days to several weeks, depending on desired texture and flavor." While perusing the Larder I gleaned a few more Philadelphia firsts: Cheesecake Seckel Pears Pepper Hash Fish House Punch

My father used to take me to Anthony Wayne back when Rte 46 was the major access to NYC. I liked it then, like it now, though I didn't have a hot dog. They cook over a real charcoal grill and I go for the burger, steak or mixed grill. It's great in warm weather when the tables are set up outside the dininig rooms, but the inside dining rooms are early American not gothic. Nowadays you really have to want to get to the Anthony Wayne, not the easiest access from Route 80. As to the Goffle Grill, ok but nothing exceptional. Liked Callahan's and Bear's trailer the best this trip to NNJ.

So today I finally made it to Callahan's and Hiram's. Also Mr. Dee's, the Goffle Grill and a hot dog trailer called Bear's. And Anthony Wayne. I'm not one to squander a trip to North Jersey with out some serious eating. But to the point, of the two, I liked Callahan's dog a lot better. John, as in the guy named John who knows everything about every hot dog ever consumed, says both dogs are Thurman's beef and pork blend. I'm not going to question John. But the Callahan's dog is long and narrow while Hiram's is short and plump. Both are deep fat fried. Callahan's, to my taste, cooks to a much better texture. Hiram's, on the other hand, has it all over Callahan's in terms of seedy ambience.

Two dishes My mother would saute chopped onions and mushrooms in butter, mix them in with mashed potatoes and bake them. I'm partial to old fashioned cranberry sauce, made from scratch - cranberries, water and some sugar. It does the job it's supposed to do without any aspirations of grandeur. There is nothing more gullet satisfying than a forkfull of turkey, giblet gravy, stuffing and real cranberry sauce coming together in one's mouth. (Edited by Holly Moore at 10:38 pm on Nov. 2, 2001)

You asked: - Mrs. Goodfellows Pudding which later became lemon meringue pie - Cream Cheese, though the original version had the taste and texture of fine brie - Animal Crackers first baked at Walter G. Wilson and Sons Bakery - Shoofly Pie is not Pennsylvania Dutch. It was first sold in Philadelphia in 1876 as Centennial Cake. - The first commercial ice cream was churned by Eber C. Seamen - Similarly the first commecial peanut butter was made by A.W. Straub & Company - Of course the first Automat was in Philadelphia and not New York - The hoagie sandwich, (outlanders call it a sub or similar) dates back to the 1880's and the first time Gilbert and Sullivan's H.M.S. Pinafore played in Philadelphia. Local bakers, to honor the occasion, created a sleek, ship shaped roll called a Pinafore. Street vendors, known in the slang of the times as "Hokey Pokey" men, took to stuffing these rolls with antipasto salad. These sandwiches were called Hokey's, which South Philadelphian's, as is their way with nouns, changed to hoagie. - Tasty Cake including Butterscoth Krimpets. - Soft pretzels - we're famous for them but not sure we sold the first American ones - and that most mysterious of all delicacies, Scrapple I must admit that a local food historian by the name of William Woys Weaver told most of this a few years ago.

You Kidding??? I often can't even keep up with her as a best friend.

By the way, Bux, Carman and I are heading to New York in December to see the Producers. Is this a good time to ask you for help in getting reservations at Daniel. :)

No offense taken Bux. Was just gently chiding that infamous New York state of mind thing as was so well depicted in the old New Yorker mag map of the United States as seen by a New Yorker. You didn't really think any Philadelphian would not take issue with an opinion stating, "I'm not convinced they (Le Bec-Fin diners) know as much about food as New Yorkers" even if you did soften the blow with the rest of that paragraph. I agreed with that part, by the way. Out of curiosity, which New Yorkers are so food knowledgeable? Just Mid Manhatanites and Village/ Soho dwellers or also those from the Bronx and Staten Island (Steven assures me that Staten Island is part of NYC)? New York Times readers or Post readers? Those who ride in cabs or those who drive them? Seriously, I'll concede that New York City, because of its population, has a lot more restaurants, probably some ethnic cuisines that can't be found in Philadelphia and more depth of great restaurants. But, here in Philadelphia I can probably get French, Italian, Chinese, Fish and similar high cuisine meals every bit as good as can be found in NYC. I will admit that NYC has better hot dogs than Philly. But not as good as North Jersey. And I know a few food knowledgable New Yorkers who think nothing of driving to Philadelphia for breakfast. (Edited by Holly Moore at 7:40 pm on Oct. 22, 2001)

Typical New Yorker view of their world. It's on the Jersey side, it's in Jersey. New York stole it. One of these days Jersey will succeed in it's long time efforts to get her back.

There is no restaurant like Carman's Country Kitchen in NYC because there is no Carman in New York. Though Carman's ability to seat four at a table for two is impressive, I think I may hold a record in that area. I once sat 14 at a table for two for apps and drinks. I'm almost as proud at that feat as I am in taking the Big Mac national. Steven, let me know when you're ready for Le Bec-Fin. I always look for an opportunity. Bunch of pikers here in Philly, at least among my friends - can hardly find anyone to head there with me. Alas it may be true. Why else would we provencial, dare-I-say hick, Philadelphians make it a point at the start of each meal to bow our heads and give thanks for those ever-so-knowledgable New Yorkers who, like New Jersey's Statue of Liberty is to ships-at-sea, are the free world's beacon to all things culinary. (Edited by Holly Moore at 4:11 pm on Oct. 22, 2001)

One man's porn is another man's arteriosclerosis.

The Bloomsburg Fair page is up at HollyEats.Com. http://www.hollyeats.com/BloomsburgFair.htm And here is the promised pic of the deep fat fried Oreo's.

I suspect, and it is not your fault as this is a new cuisine for you, that perhaps you ordered your cheese steak with provolone, which is more a Roxboro than South Philly style cheese steak which is slathered with CheezeWiz. I can not imagine anyone ordering a cheese steak crowned with CheezeWiz and not recognizing a culinary masterpiece when he chomps into it. Later: I do not suggest that my world is better. More bucolic perhaps; simpler of course; probably less frightening; but not necessarily better. I often yearn for the classical cuisines of Escoffier and of the Russian Imperial Court. But what noted chef of today, on this side of the Atlantic at least, would offer such old hat, cliche fare without nouvelling it up to make it "his" dish. (Edited by Holly Moore at 7:04 pm on Oct. 4, 2001)

Yo Bux, what about the art in a Philadelphia cheese steak?? I like to think I'm one of those who will drive 94 miles each way for a Rutt's hot dog or a White Manna Burger but still appreciates what a skilled chef accomplishes in a fine dining restaurant. My problem comes with "90 day wonder" chefs who create forced dishes just to be different - who don't have the savvy, craft or background to understand what works and what will never work no matter how pretty it is made to look, how tall it rises above the plate or how many descriptors follow it on the menu. You don't see such culinary stretching in my world of hot dogs, fried clams and chicken fried steak.

The batter was a sweet fritter batter that pretty much engulfed the oreo into a blob as it cooked. I'll be putting pics from the Bloomsburg fair on my site sometime between tomorrow and the weekend and the oreo's will be well featured.

Not sure this is what you have in mind, but the Batter Fried Oreo's at the Bloomsburg Fair probably qualify and are a lot simpler to prepare. For info see my post in the PA section.

Headed to the Bloomsburg (PA) State Fair (Runs through 9/29) (Exit 34 off of I-80) yesterday. Some of the best fair eating I've come across - all sorts of traditional and non traditional fair fare. Started, of course, with Deep Fried Oreos that had been dippered in a sweet batter. Surprising, very good. The heat melted the Oreo filling into the batter and the cookie part went soft and became like a filling. That same stand sold batter fried pickles and batter fried apples. Had a great Roast Beef sandwich at a stand called "Top of Beef." A number of roasts are skewered together and cooked over a charcoal fire. Sort of like a Gyros. Then slice some off, then throw it back on the fire to cook some more. Just a bit away, Gross's French Fries - Twice fried - the first in giant enameled kettles, the second to order in a fryer. Finally a fry as good as a Belgium Frites. Washed everything down with some home made birch beer near the Polka stage. Unfortunately I pretty much reached my capacity. Had to pass up all sorts of things. Fresh apple dumplings, home made ice cream, pumpkin waffles, incredible blueberry muffins, waffles and ice cream, waffles and creamed chicken, corn dogs, porkcetta (sliced pork in a spicy au jus), barbecued anything, cinnamon buns, stickey buns, fudge, buckwheat cakes, fried oysters, fried chicken. The fair is 1/2 food, 1/4 midway and 1/4 animals and stuff. Worth a road trip. Very crowded on weekends, best if you can make it during the week.

There's a discussion on restaurant ranges on one of the other boards. I have a garland range with salamander. Bought it back in the mid-80's. Love it. Am guessing that back then the grill and salamander cost me about 2,000. Could have been less. My home grill is a cast iron grill I bought at Fante's in Philadelphia's Italian Market. Just a heavy slab of cast iron with a groove for grease catching running along one edge. Unfortunately it is sized for home use so it spans between 1 1/2 burners as opposed to two. With the Garland range it's easy to control heat. I use it mostly for burgers, hot dogs, finishing off brats and an occasional steak.

The salamander is great. Can't quantify it, but my guess is that it is capable of producing twice the heat of a home broiler. I use it for steaks, fish, chicken breasts and, of course, toast.

Anything and everything about McDonald's and running a McDonald's. Hamburger University is for new franchisees, company store and franchise managers (though that is now being handled regionally I think) and for corporate managment and support personnel. History of McDonald's, QSC - Quality Service and Cleanliness, the details of each product in a McDonald's, personnel from hiring, to training to scheduling, to firing, how to order, prep and cook every item on the menu, accounting with the greatest emphasis being placed on inventory control, local marketing, how to use corporate support functions, and working each position in a working McDonald's restaurant. Probably a lot more that I forgot. Did I mention I won the "Archie" - top of my class. Much, much better than I did at the hotel school. I went through McDonald's Hamburger University, Burger King's Whopper U., and Dunkin' Donuts University. McDonalds was, by far, the most thorough with the best content and presentation.

A few thoughts after reading through this string - The Philadelpha Palm serves one of the best burgers in Philly. So I tend to agree that a place that serves a good steak will probably also serve a good burger. It is a tragedy that there is no Peter Lugers in Philly. There is at least one restaurant here that insists on cooking its burgers well done. They are probably doing it because of the high incidence of salmonella and ecoli poisoning that can occur in ground beef cooked to less than 160 degreed internal temperature. I don't eat there anymore. Hamburgers must be cooked no more than medium rare. A good hamburger blend has a mix of chuck for juice/fat and flank or similar for flavor. Learned that at Hamburger University. The bun/bread is almost as important as the meat in a hamburger. Too many times the bun is stale, toasted too dry, not heated at all, way to bready, softened crust from being stored in plastic, and/or far bigger than the burger. The McTechnical term for the latter transgression is meat to bun ratio. I enjoy burgers on fresh Kaiser Rolls, Crisp airy french style rolls, english muffins and a good firm multigrain bread. At home I both broil (I have a restaurant salamander) and grill (I also have a very heavy cast iron griddle) burgers. I tend to prefer the crisp crust one gets from the cast iron griddle. I'm with Steven as to additives. One of my favorite hamburgers in my college years was the OllieBurger from the local Lums, which was packed with spices. But I object to additivies such as onion, which gives the burger a meat loaf air. I am not a member of the Bigger is Better majority when it comes to hamburger patties. Thicker is usually better. But the margin for error in cooking a half pound hamber to the proper degree of doneness is too great. And it's usually too sloppy for even me to eat. I'd much rather have two thick quarter pound burgers.

ZsuZsa Johnson taught me this variation on a fresh tomato sauce. Skin seed and coarsely chop some vine rippened tomatoes. Finely dice some fresh mozzarella cheese. Combine and toss in some chopped fresh basil. Add olive oil. Now cook the pasta. I use vermacelli, but others would work fine too. Immediately upon draining the cooked pasta, add the sauce and toss. You want the pasta to be piping hot so it melts the cheese. Enjoy