robyn

I won't kill you - I'll just say "ditto". I lived in Miami for over 20 years - and I'm very familiar with Cuban food. It is not one of the world's most distinguished cuisines. Versailles is very competent (it's the place where politicians go to be seen) - and La Carreta is very typical. Recommend both. Robyn

The camera seems fine (judging from the pictures). But I have a suggestion (it's not personal to you - it's for everyone). It's so easy to take digital photos. We take dozens of them - hundreds - thousands. But very few people seem to take the time to edit what they've taken (either in terms of individual pictures or groups of pictures). Which is why you direct us to a site with 125 pictures - or I get a "vacation photo album" from a friend which contains 100. There's no editing - no narration. I was guilty of the same thing myself - keeping and sending stacks of pictures - the good - the bad - the ugly - all together. Now I try to go through my shots - throw out the bad ones - edit and keep the good ones - and organize them into coherent "albums" (complete with captions if appropriate). It is definitely a "rainy day project" - and I am far behind in organizing what I have - but I'll get to most of it eventually - and I think it's worth it. Note that I recently went through my mother's non-digital photos. Thousands of them. Lots of bad pictures - duplicates - nothing in chronological order. Couldn't edit them individually. But I did throw out the dogs and organize what was left into albums. I don't think anyone had looked at the stuff for over 20 years - but now it's worth looking at (and I often look at the album I kept for myself). Pictures should tell a story - and we have to edit and arrange them to tell that story. Robyn

Dining once or twice at a place over a year or two hardly makes one a "regular". Quite frankly - with a lot of these places - they've opened and closed by the time I got around to visiting the city in which they're located. Alinea hasn't been open for even a year - and I suspect it won't be around next time I'm in Chicago (2007 or maybe 2008). Ditto with someone like Blais in Atlanta (I get there more often than I get to Chicago). His original place opened and closed between my trips there. Ditto with La Broche in Miami. I did manage to get to Mosaico in the short time the original chef was there (but I travel to Miami more often than most places). Robyn

There are very few "avant garde" restaurants in the US - and most aren't around for very long. E.g., La Broche in Miami lasted for a few months - the chef at Mosaico just left after perhaps a year or 18 months. My overall impression is that people go to these places once - to say that they've been there - or perhaps enjoy the food - and they don't tend to be "regulars". Restaurants in high rent districts want cuisine that will generate a more reliable flow of business. A lot of these restaurants tend to be what 3 star French restaurants were to restaurant travelers perhaps 20 years ago - you planned trips around them and ate there once. Only possible exception is that those 3 star restaurants in France had regulars as well as "eating travelers". Quite frankly - I thought the food in San Francisco was great. And I had stuff I hadn't eaten before - like quince. Robyn

I've lived in the south for over 30 years. Have never heard of chicken in waffles. Never saw chicken fried steak with dark gravy or green peppers. Never saw fried okra served whole. I did however cook up a huge pot of collards and another of black eyed peas for New Year's. Enough for seconds - and thirds. Enjoyed some leftovers tonight with corn bread. Robyn

Oh? You know - I've been pretty reserved about this. I travel more than a fair amount. And eat a fair amount. And I could not even presume to name the best restaurant in the state where I live and travel a lot (Florida) - much less the US - much less the world. Let's see - in the last couple of years - I've been to and eaten in New York - Texas - California - Illinois - Georgia - Washington - Oregon - Louisiana - Arizona - several provinces in Canada - London. We generally travel a lot more but we took care of my father-in-law in a nursing home here for 3 years before he died a while ago. So we didn't travel as much as usual - and stuck pretty close to home. Have never been to the far east - but we are going this spring. We've had high brow meals - low brow meals - some bad - some good - some fabulous. But it would be silly on my part to name any of the places I've eaten the best - because eating at dozens out of the hundreds or perhaps thousands of best restaurants in the world over the course of several decades doesn't qualify me to make those judgments. Perhaps your experience is more comprehensive than mine (although I seriously doubt that 19 year old Bryan Z's is). So let's see. I've never been to Alinea. Have you ever been to the Dining Room at the Ritz Carlton in Buckhead when Menard was in the Dining Room (he's now the chef at L'Osier in Tokyo) - or Chez Panisse? Just off the top of my head - those are the 2 best meals I've had in the US lately. Although I thought our meals at Gordon Ramsay and Tom Aikens in London were better. Ever been to those places? Note that I've been to Per Se - and I didn't think it was as good as the other places I mentioned. And I'm sure that if I listed all the places I've eaten at - I could get into some spirited arguments about my opinions of them with other people who've dined at those places. And - quite frankly - I think that nothing can hold a candle to 3 star French cooking in France in its heyday (which has since passed). I'm not saying that Alinea isn't perhaps a very good or excellent restaurant. I just think that most people here who are singing its praises are more than a bit over the top (especially when it comes to comparing it with other places that are out there - most of which they've never been to). Robyn

This has already been discussed exhaustively . . . here. Thanks, =R= ← Thanks for the thread reference. Doesn't surprise me at all considering the reciprocal snipes in Esquire. It really is a bit tedious when the people who write about food act like they're more important than the food. Robyn

Have you been? Alinea is far more than hocus-pocus. It is great food presented extremely well in a very fine atmosphere. It also has a lot of humor, which is something I think a lot of people do not understand. You are correct, though Robyn, a lot of people share that opinion - mostly those who haven't been. The same is true for El Bulli. Of course there are those who have been who fel that it isn't worth the hype. If people are not into having an open mind with the food that is served they will not like either place. if people are into creativity and willing to explore with an open mind, it is my strong opinion that they will love either restaurant. As for the criticism that people leave Alinea hungry - tell that to my wife (this is not directed at you, Robyn). She would beg to differ and has almost kept me from the tour because there is so much food. Besides these restaurants are not about quantity. they are all about quality and creativity and leaving feeling comfortable and not super-saturated. ← Doubt I'd ever have a problem leaving hungry. I don't like to eat massive (or even somewhat large) amounts of food at a single seating. I can't even make it through a 10 course "tiny bites" tasting menu. I've never been to Alinea - and probably won't be there soon (Chicago simply isn't on my radar travel screen right now). And even if I get to Chicago next year (2007) - don't know that I'd go. There are a lot of different food philosophies and sensibilities these days. And I am much more on the Chez Panisse side of things these days than the Alinea side. Food that speaks for itself - without "gimmicks" Like Bryan Z said - "thought the air pillow with the "Duck" was a little bit gimmicky, but I'm a gimmicky kind of guy". I am not a gimmicky kind of guy. I don't think I'd use the phrase that Mariana used - hocus pocus - ever in the context of a restaurant - but I kind of cringe when I read about dishes in various restaurants that are supposed to be puns - as opposed to delicious food. Fat lot of good it does for a foreign traveler when a chef is trying to make puns - especially in a different language (we are going to Japan in a few months and I just hope my husband and I will wind up ordering something other than the tax and tip ). BTW - I don't mean to imply that one POV is right and the other wrong. There are simply people with different preferences - even when they don't have bad colds. It's not a big deal. There are all kinds of people with all kinds of tastes - and hopefully there will be restaurants to satisfy all of them. I am not fond of cultural relativism - but I reserve big deal judgment calls for big deal things (which in my opinion doesn't include restaurants). Robyn

There are people who more than agree with Beans. In naming Butter (in Chicago) one of the year's best new restaurants in the November issue of Esquire - John Mariana wrote in part: "Chicago is presently in the grip of a few hocus-pocus chefs trying to make headlines based on things like burning incense next to a dish of venison...." I subscribe to Mr. Mariana's on line newsletter - and think he's far from an idiot when it comes to food (although we certainly don't agree about everything). Robyn

I meant the Arashiyama branch of Kitcho. It does indeed look very expensive. And I'm wondering whether it's worth it. We'll be spending about 3 weeks in Japan - we'd like to have some "big deal" meals - and I'd like to distinguish between the places that serve great food - and the places that simply have great reputations. It is very difficult to get accurate information about restaurants in a country which is so far away - and about which so little (comparatively) is written in English. Robyn Do you mean at Arashiyama, or at the Arashiyama branch of Kitcho? I've eaten at a number of restaurants in the Arashiyama area, and like anywhere, the restaurants I've eaten at range from the bad to the average. I don't normally get to eat at the really expensive places unless someone else is paying. As for Kitcho, I've not had the fortune to dine there. I've been thinking of springing for lunch one day, though. None of my Japanese friends or co-workers have dined there, either. Even for the average Japanese (who has quite a bit of disposable income), it's just too expensive. The non-Arashiyama branches are comparatively cheaper, though. So I might try one of those one day. ←

I've probably said this before somewhere in this thread (and I know I've said it elsewhere) - but some of the current fashions in food are simply not good cooking (by the standards of a fair number of high class chefs). Fish (other than things like sushi and sashimi) should not be served almost raw. Ditto with almost raw veggies (except as crudites or in one of those "raw food" restaurants). Properly cooked al dente pasta shouldn't be "almost crunchy". As for beef - I don't eat it that often. And I like it rare. But - especially at high end places - it is hard to get a piece of beef which is rare. It is usually so thick that it is charred on the outside - and almost raw (and usually cool if not cold) on the inside. So I generally eat beef at home (I buy thinner steaks - which are easier to make rare). Of course - my brisket - which is to die for - is never cooked rare. Robyn

I think Ripert had started in New York before the Miami venture closed. But he hadn't been there a long time. But he didn't have anything to do with what happened in Miami. It was clear that after Gilbert died - Maguy (who basically handled the Miami operation) had to go back to New York to get the situation in hand. I'm not sure why everyone thinks Miami is any worse than a city like New York. Wasn't it New York which basically sent Thomas Keller to California? Robyn

What do you mean by that? When Brasserie Le Coze was around - Gilbert Le Coze was still alive (although he wasn't the chef in Miami). The restaurant closed shortly after he died. I don't think Ripert ever had anything to do with the Miami restaurant. It basically closed because Maguy returned to handle the New York operation after Gilbert died. Robyn

Cafe Abbraci in Coral Gables isn't too far from the airport (and you can search for other restaurants in that general area - it's a nice area). Note that it's kind of a formal restaurant (at least formal for Miami). It is a little out of the way in terms of a direct shot from MIA to Key Largo - but not terribly out of the way. The immediate area around the airport is kind of crummy in my opinion. Robyn

Try the yellow pages under "sharpening services" (I saw 3 places listed for Miami in the online yellow pages). Also ask some cooks in restaurants. I found my sharpening service in Jacksonville through the yellow pages here. The fellow goes around to restaurants late at night - and - when he's through with the restaurants - he parks his truck in my driveway (his truck is actually a shop) and sharpens my knives. If you can't find someone like this - try Williams Sonoma - Sur La Table in Palm Beach Gardens or a local kitchen store. A lot of those places have knife sharpening events from time to time. Robyn

Have you dined at Arashiyama? I know it is famous - and I wonder if it is as good as its reputation. Robyn

I don't really understand the trashing either. I've subscribed to Gourmet on and off for perhaps 20 years. And it is one of the few magazines I will actually pay money for now (I got lots of others for free). It is true that the magazine has gone in some new directions. But what's bad about that? I am a decent home cook - nothing fantastic - but decent. And I clip recipes and paste them on index cards. Have done that for years. Well - being a pretty busy person - I reckon I now have about 50 years worth of recipes on index cards (and I don't think I'm going to live another 50 years ). How many do I need? On the other hand - I thought your article about Walmart was fascinating (hope my memory isn't failing me - I think it was Gourmet where I read the Walmart article). Read it to my husband when we were driving somewhere one day. Now I don't think Gourmet is giving up its "day job" - which is providing some interesting ideas about things to cook. It's just adding things. Like information about restaurants - hotels - travel destinations - political food issues. What's wrong with that? And even though my travel and restaurant preferences - and political opinions - are in many cases more conservative than those usually expressed in Gourmet - I find that the articles are generally well written and informative. They give me new ideas - which I am free to accept or reject. Perhaps there are some people - including people here - who think they are so "hoity toity" that anything in a mass market magazine like Gourmet can't possibly be of interest to them. I've done a lot - and seen a lot - and there are always areas and things about which I know nothing or next to nothing. Some are crummy things - like having to learn about cancer when a parent is sick. Others are fun things - like exploring the endless universe of food. I'm sure there are some food professionals who won't learn much from a food magazine like Gourmet - but I'm not one of them. And I suspect there are a fair number of people like me - but some people just aren't willing to admit it. They want to act as if they know everything - even if they don't. The day I stop trying to learn is the day I'll have become old - and I'm not in a big hurry to do that. You take care and thanks for coming here. Robyn

This isn't so much a question as an observation. I used to write for a living (pretty dry stuff - lawyer stuff). But I also love to read. And I know good writing when I see it. Anthony Bourdain is a very talented writer - and I enjoy what he writes - in his books - and in Gourmet (even though we have had a couple of big fights here over trivial matters - we are not exactly tight buddies). Only thing is - he needs a good editor - someone to remind him from time to time that he doesn't have to be the Dean Martin of food writing. The substance of his writing is really terrific without the boozy aura. Robyn

They say you can't go home again - and what you said - in addition to other things I've read - convinces me not to try. In the last decade - I've become very fond of food to the west - like the west coast of the US and Canada - and Hawaii. So rather than thinking "east" these days - I am thinking "west". Although if you go far enough west - you wind up in the east - like Asia . We're taking our first trip there in the spring - about 2 weeks in Japan. Have you been there? Did you like it? Only problem with the far east is the jet lag. I'm terrible when it comes to jet lag. Luckily - Tokyo seems to be a 24/7 city. It's been a pleasure having you here this week. Keep up the good work with Gourmet Magazine. I've read some criticism - like you seem to be trying somewhat to attract older affluent people who like to travel a lot - and who are interested in the political aspects of food - etc. - in addition to people who are interested in cooking. I don't see that as a valid criticism - and if that is your goal - then you are succeeding with people like me . Robyn

Just curious - what did you wind up paying for the dinner? And did it include alcohol? I drink one cup of coffee a day - when I wake up. So I'm not interested in coffee at $1 or $40 at dinner . I assume that a $40 cup of coffee has some kind of expensive liquor in it. Robyn

I live in the Jacksonville FL area now. The food scene here used to be dismal - but it has improved a fair amount in recent years. There are actually a fair number of places I can recommend to people when they travel to this area . It's certainly not a major league eating destination though. Miami isn't either for that matter. Florida isn't a great eating state anywhere in my opinion. But you don't have to worry about me. I get to eat at a lot of good restaurants (I travel a lot). So I think I asked you before - what are the restaurants you like in Miami - other than Pacific Time (which is last century's news as far as I'm concerned). Went there once when it was thought to one of the best and brightest - and wasn't impressed. BTW - I don't talk very much about myself here - except for my eating and cooking and other food thoughts. Robyn

For the most part - I only travel to major vacation destinations (like most travelers). We were in San Francisco - a city smaller than the Miami metro area - last month. It was simply loaded with tourists. You can't tell me that the people who live there don't take their food seriously. And what I sampled there was better than what I've eaten in Miami recently. I can't compare the Miami metro area with New York or Los Angeles - because it's a smaller city (and you expect less in smaller cities than larger ones). OTOH - Miami is huge compared to Aspen - and it certainly shouldn't settle for being a "warm Aspen". I haven't been to Aspen for perhaps a decade - but its food scene was fairly limited (which makes sense considering that it isn't very large). I think that when you talk about Miami - you have to compare it with places like Dallas/Fort Worth - maybe Seattle - Portland - medium sized but not top 10 cities in the US. And perhaps larger but really spread out cities like Phoenix. As for Food Festivals - they can be fun - we had a terrific one up at Amelia Island this summer at the Ritz Carlton - but they don't translate into anything long term in terms of improving the local restaurant scene. Robyn

<<You may not like what we're doing, but a lot of people do: We won the ASME (American Society of Magazine Editors) award for photography last year. Incidentally, we don't use digital. Richard doesn't think the quality is good enough yet.>> Think you read my message too fast. I like what I see (and said so). As for digital - I'd give it a try. I'm far from a professional photographer (I'm a retired lawyer) - but I talk with a lot of professional photographers every year at the Alligator Farm in St. Augustine (sounds funny - but the Alligator Farm is a world class bird rookery and a lot of guys from big deal magazines - even National Geographic - go there to take bird pictures). Most of them have gone digital (although we're talking about very expensive big deal digital cameras - not the kind of Kodak point and shoot job I have). And their subjects - birds outside - are more difficult than food (which tends not to move all that much ). Can't say it will work for you - but - like I said - I think it's worth a try. Robyn

Mimi Sheraton started this thread on eGullet about the photography in Gourmet Magazine. Not exactly complimentary. And some writers in the thread shared her opinion. I dabble a little in food photography (for my own use). And I've read a little - like Lou Manna's book Digital Food Photography. Although - according to Manna - there's an older style of food photography (very stylized with lots of props) - and a newer one (which seemingly consists mostly of tighter food shots) - there's no question that all the photographs he shows are really "pretty". His food needs more stylists than the average high fashion model . Although I didn't say anything in the eGullet thread - what I see in Gourmet these days looks a lot more like "real food" - food minus the food stylists. The food that I take pictures of. And eat. Not a bowl of glue with cornflakes placed on top with tweezers (this is one of the "tricks" Manna discusses). Doesn't bother me at all. In fact - I rather like it. I find real food - like real people - kind of refreshing. And it's certainly not "ugly" (if someone wants to see ugly - he or she should attend a fair number of contemporary photography exhibits). Is there a philosophy of - or approach to - food photography at Gourmet? Has it changed since you've become the editor? Is it fixed - or still evolving? In other words - tell us what you think about the photography. Robyn

Well - just because someone can use a computer doesn't mean he or she knows anything about food. Correctly or not - I was impressed in your writings by what you seem to know about food. Now I probably know 100 times more about food than the average person - but you probably know 100 times more than me. And I'm sure there are people who know more than you (although perhaps not 100 times more ). I've run across a few amateurs who are somewhere near your league - but not many. So - in most cases - I'd take a review written by someone like you over 100 written by someone like me (or - what I find in most cases - written by someone who knows less than me). I find it kind of sad to see the rather old fashioned process of reviewing - learning about food first - then sampling a particular restaurant a fair number of times - then taking the time to write carefully - biting the dust in the big cities (of course - in a smaller city - like the city where I live - the only purpose of reviews has been to make the restaurants which advertise in the local media look good). Robyn