DaleJ

Slowtrav.com will have more Tuscan rentals than you can imagine.

TSQ: Also ate at Latte di Luna in Pienza ( highly touted). Very ordinary. I live in the diagramatically opposite corner of the US. Unfortunately all states around here are red and fresh porcini are unheard of. I would pay dearly for fresh. Anyone know who might ship some?

Wandered into Il Rossolino the first evening in Pienza. (Forgot where I saw the recommendation.) There are six two-tops, the husband. who is the chef and the wife, who runs the front. That's it. She approached with a large wood crate of porchini for our inspection. I asked for a mixed salad and for my main to be "sauted porcini" since, of course, fresh porcini are unheard of in the states and it had been a year since my last fresh porcini. A plate with one mahogony porcino cap anointed with a bare teaspoon of the thyme scented olive oil it was cooked in was set in front of me. I could feel my eyes tear up. The cap was barely three inches in diameter but took fifteen minutes to consume and was the singular highlight of a ten day trip to Rome, Pienza and Milan. Of, course, the next night we returned. This time I had the Porcino first and followed with Fiorentina Chianina. More filling of course, but without the amazing surprise of the first meal.

Ate at 'Gusto again a couple of times last week. The bustling energy of the waitstaff is worth the trip. Plates of salumi and cheese and a liter of the house specialty makes for a great experience. Truly a fun place.

Alberto: I guess I fit the usual mode. I'm looking for authentic (traditional?) hand made food in appropriate surroundings. I've eated upstairs at Peck, but that doesn't fit what I just said. For instance, I've never been to Navigli (sp?) and I hear that its an interesting place. Bottom line: I'd be happy with any good recommendation. Thanks.

Leaving for Rome Thursday for a few days, then to Pienza for a few more. Will finish up in Milan the nights of 19, 20 and 21 November. I have a reservation at Boccondivino on the 20th but even having been to Milan a couple of times in the past few years I don't recall any significant eats. I'd like some recommendations, especially for Sunday evening since most of the city is shut down that day. I may even spend that day at Lake Como. Help.

Thanks, Melissa. I wqs born and raised about sixty miles south of Chicago and my mother, bless her heart, featured grey meat loaf, canned vegetables and jello. Julia Child changed my life lo, those many years ago. My MTAoFC, volume I, is falling apart from use thirty years ago. When living in Lafayette Park in Detroit I gathered chestnuts that had fallen and made one of Julia's recipes (can't remember which one) only to find out that the "chestnuts" were vilely tart and rendered my "creation" inedable. In the past six or so years, we have traveled to Italy spring and fall and I have fallen head over heals with the cuisine, the wine and the lifestyle. My wife and I, both being architects, studiously experienced Italian monuments and their great urban spaces. On about out third or fourth trip we confessed that while the architecture was outstanding, we really traveled to Italy for the beauty of the life there. So, out of my perhaps fifty cookbooks forty are Italian inspired, from Ada Boni to Mario to Nigella to the girls at River Cafe. I have comadeered the kitchen and love dinner parties and the opportunity to show off. I spend the weekends making pasta, gnocci and six hour ragus. What great fun! p.s. I did buy Tony's book and just ordered Bouchon. Perhaps there is hope yet.

FWIW, Here's my foolproof rib process: Place baby backs on foil, anoint with salt, pepper and olive oil. Wrap tightly, place in 225 oven for about six hours. Open the foil, raise temp to 450 for 15 minutes. That's it.

Robert: It must be sweet. I, too remember the Williams, Pesky et. al. Red Sox. As well I remember the '45 Cubs (my team as a kid) and their loss to the Tigers. Nicholson, Cavaretta, Hack et. al. I hope the Cubs are the next in line for sweetness and I also hope that its in the pretty near future.

amccomb: I would surely recommend a train trip to Orvieto. A terrific duomo and one of my favorite restaurants, I Sette Consoli at Piazza San Angelo, 1/A, a block or so from the top of the train station funicular. Tel & fax: 0763 343911, closed Wednesdays. (And from November 1 until June 30 closed for Sunday dinner.) A woman chef with local renown. Also, if you're into wood sculpture don't miss the studio of Michaelangeli, right on the main street. I shot my allowance there last year.

Thanks, Toliver. I'll try it, but I can't believe that big filet will be done in 45 minutes.

Saw PJ's solo show last Saturday. I've never seen anyone handle kitchen instruments and ingredients like he does. Fantastic. BTW, his slow baked salmon looked interesting, but I didn't catch how many hours he cooked it at 200F. Can anyone help? Thanks.

FWIW, I read somewhere some time ago to add corn meal to luke warm water and stir to avoid lumps. It works every time.

We spent a week in Monopoli a couple of years ago. Its a pleasant, seaside town. I'm currently unable to remember the name of a terrific fish restaurant we went to twice. It was "something Bianco" and will try to look it up in notes at home. Our first experience was a Sunday pranzo that was one of those "just sit down and eat what's brought until you can't eat any more" things. It was wonderful to see the Italian families from babies to vechie diving into the great products of the sea. The place has been there since the late forties and proudly states that with a big neon sign behind the serving table. We had a car, so daily travel to all corners of Puglia was possible. My favorites of all were traveling the Gargano and visiting Martina Franca, where we lunched at a pleasurabel place recommended in Fred Plotkin's book. I'd go back to Puglia at a moment's notice.

CT: You guessed it.

Its my principle way of showing off.

FWIW: The brick pressed chicken is alla matone. My panino is made on a grill pan weighted with a cast iron pan smaller than the grill pan and further weighted by a 28 oz. can of tomatoes.

8 parts gin, 1 part dry vermouth, lemon twist.

Definately finish with slices of lemon. Fiorentina being Tuscan, it seems to me that the perfect side would be fagioli with sage.

Caprai is about halfway between Montefalco and Bevagna. A big spread with a nice tasting room. Another Sagrantino producer is Paulo Bea at the edge of Montefalco. A tiny, casual place with well thought of wines, especially Passito.

As of a year or so ago wine can be shipped into South Carolina. We are still fighting the minibottle law, however. I believe it will be on the November ballot. (No one is ever safe when the legislature is in session.)

Katie, FWIW, I liked your real picture better. (Off topic, I guess.)

ORE: Thanks for the narrative and wonderful pics. I've lunched several times at Portonovo. It is fabulous mayhem on summer Sundays when the parking lots are full and the beach is packed. Last September I had to wait for almost two hours for a table. Fortunately there was adequate wine. Have also visited the Caprai winery in Umbria several times. Their Sagrantino is terrific. Ciao.

FWIW, there's an interesting article currently on the NYT website regarding Primitivo.

I heartilly second Tamborini. Great lunch fun.