DaleJ

I have one more. I have now eaten several times at 'Gusto, at the corner of via della Frezza and via del Corea, a few blocks northwest of Piazza Spagna. Its an ultramodern interior with a little bar, a sort of standup dining area for ciccheti and cheese plates and a sit down area for "real meals". I reminds me of Otto in NYC for its chic informality. A percentage of Rome's glitterati frequent the place nightly so reservations are probably needed for a sit down dinner. There's a nightly wine special for, as I remember, a euro a glass. And ordering a cheese plate for two with a jug of wine can put you in business for twenty five bucks. Its a fun place. Phone 063226273.

I have smoked salmon for several years using this process. I have a ratty old fry pan that I use only for this purpose. Place about a tablespoon of wood chips in the botton of the pan, place a wire rack on top and set over high heat. I line a domed lid with foil and place it on the pan. After about five minutes I remove the lid and set about 3/4 pound of salmon filet, skin side down. Turn the heat to medium and turn on the extractor fan. In about ten minutes turn off the heat and move the pan to an idle burner. I leave the lid on for another ten or so minutes. Presto.

My experience is that virtually every bank in all parts of Italy feature ATMs. I haven't taken a travelers check to Italy for several years.

I heartily recommend Pizzaria Remo in Testaccio. Take the Metro to the Piramide stop, walk down Via Marmoratta past Volpetti, turn left into the center of Testaccio and ask anyone for directions. You may have to armwrestle for an outdoor table but it'll be worth it. Terrific pizza and really good deep fried baccala. I was put on to Remo by locals and have never seen a non local there.

Its only a pizzaria, but my favorite in Italy. Take the Metro to Piramide and walk down Via Marmorata past Volpetti and turn left into Testaccio. Ask anyone you see for directions to Pizzaria Remo. Its a neighborhood institution. You may have to armwrestle for an outdoor table, but its worth it. The place rocks every night.

I am compelled to honor a long ago white haired bartender who made fabulous martinis. This goes back to the late sixties in Detroit and I was a recently registered architect working in a large firm in the New Center area. A block from our office was "Jack's Steak Out", a sometimes lunch spot, but an every night watering hole. Alas, I don't remember his name, but a few of us were addicted to his bar gin martinis which were stirred and strained into frozen glasses. And the price was eighty five cents. A buck on the bar therefor included an over fifteen percent tip. Ah, those times.

Spent a few days in St. Louis a year ago while my wife attended a conference of some sort. Far and away the best restaurant is Tony's right downtown. Men must wear jackets.

A couple of years ago I made a pilgrimage to the distillery of Vittorio Capovilla just outside Bassano del Grapppa. He had been profiled in Italian Cooking and Living a few months earlier and lauded for using only his hand gathered fruit to produce distillates. I was pleased to meet him and be shown around his modest facility and came away with an appreciation of the process and bottles of his apricot distillate and grappa. While the fruit distillate is amazing stuff (I still have a few ounces) his grappa, unfortunately was very ordinary. The Banfi product is, I think, superior as is the grappa from Arnaldo Caprai's Sagrantino grapes.

'GUSTO Ate here a couple of times last October and again twice last week (mid-April 04). Located at the corner of via della Frezza and via del Corea, a few blocks northwest of Piazza di Spagna. (Phone 39 063226273) I'll wager that Mario Batali visited here before doing Otto. You enter into a room that probably seats twenty or so at tall tables. I've only seen late night diners there enjoying wine and salumi and/or cheese. The small bar (seats about ten) is to the left, and beyond that are two tops, perhaps ten total, and a small room where cheese is prepared. Also behind the bar is a beautiful hand cranked meat slicer which is always in operation. Up a set of open stairs is another dining area that I guess seats thirty or forty. Also up there is a wall of wine bottles, nicely organized. To the right of the end of the downstairs room is another room with four tops up and down in a sort of split level arrangement. All in the most modern mode. The beauty part of the place is that if one wishes to wine and dine lightly one can order a liter of the day's special wine (last Friday it was a Puglian primitivo from the barrel) and a plate of salumi or cheese and escape for under 20Euro. And its all good and smartly presented. Full meals are, of course, available but reservations are recommended. Iv'e seen people turned away by the score in the late evening. And its a headquarters for Rome's young glitterati so the visual aspect is more than the food and wine presentations. Its a happening place that I never miss when in Rome.

My bar, across the street from my office, is the first place that I experienced the blue cheese stuffed olive martini. While I drink them at home with just a twist, the blue cheese ones are pretty good. I, however, never allow them to put two in my drink. Its too much.

I've made limoncello for several years from the Batali recipe on the FoodTV website. Its very near the above mentioned recipes and is better than any I can buy here.

I, too, live in SC, drink gin martinis and believe the minibottle martini is teeny. Or maybe the glasses are just large. Also, my understanding is that bars can pour from regular bottles but cannot charge for the drink. My favorite restaurant has a bottle of grappa in the back room saved for myself and one other patron. By the way, former governor West died a few days ago. He was much revered here on Hilton Head Island,

Judy: We ate at 'Gusto twice last September and likely will again in a few weeks. I'm sure that Mario Batali visited prior to designing his Otto on Eigth street in NYC.

JUDY: I didn't know that you frequented this board. Are you going into Florence to see if Il Ritrovo is open Easter? That would be a highlight of this trip. Ciao.

BEN: I was in Folorence a year ago for four days. I ate at Il Ritrove four times. Rosetta is the most beautiful and kindest woman in the city.

I learned from my friend Gennaro Villella, an Umbrian world class chef, that one should never forget the "Strega", which is what he called anchovies. When making at my house, stuffed and rolled pork loin he added a half dozen or so oil packed anchovies along with onion, garlic, EVOO, etc. into the stuffing mix, which was chard based. They came through wonderfully. I never forget the Strega.

Omygod! I eat the olives first! All those years.......

I make risotto about once a week. Here comes the heresy part: I have some powdered bullion shipped from Pennsylvania, I think (forgot the name, I'm at the office). After the onion and rice sweat and the wine has gone, I put a tablespoon or so of the concentrate in the mix and stir it in. From then on, I use very hot water directly from the tap. Never fails.

Had a fine lunch at Pizzaria Teatro, just off the main piazza in Ascoli. Don't be off put by the name. Its a white tablecloth place with attentive service, nice local wine and satisfying food. Full of locals.

OK, I got the list. Can anyone help me sort through it, quality wise? Currently clueless. Thanks.

Should you be passing Ancona midday I recommend that you pull off at Portonovo about halfway between Ancona and Sirolo (Monte Conero). I lunched there a couple of times this autumn. Actually, I don't think there's even a town there, just parking for hundreds of cars and a half dozen beachfronty restaurants. I was there the last Sunday in September along with most of the population of Le Marche. A fabulous melee. That crowd will not, however, exist in October so a three hour wait for a table will not be a problem. (Fortunately there was wine.) BTW, Sirolo has a charming square overlooking the sea.

If money is an object (as it usually is for me) I will recommend Hotel Silvio in Bellagio. Only a few rooms and walking distance (a good walk, however) from the pier. Mostly known for its restaurant, a favorite of locals. The proprietor brings in his nets every day to supply the evening meal. It has a relatively seductive website.

I always stay at Pensione Panda, Via della Croce 35, a block or two from Piazza Spagna. Small rooms, clean and inexpensive. I think a double, with bath, is about 100E. Its fifteen minutes from Piazza Navona. They have a website.

I just bought a case. Touted to be better than many '97 Brunelli. Can I drink it now or should I put it down? If the later, how long? Grazie.

I can think of no reason that upper Umbria would be less expensive than the southern part. And I would think that your 300 euro per week accomodation is about as good as you should expect to find. FWIW, I certainly second Bevagna as a wonderful place to station. I've spent a week or so spring and fall for several years in or around Bevagna. Its not a hilltown, but was protected by a little river. The town is walkable (and parkable), has good dining options and is very convenient to a dozen good places to visit.