jamiemaw

Perhaps they were trying to shed a bit of new light, Katie.

Cheers has already been taken.

Oh the shame, GG, that Atlanta only managed to put up but a singleton: Seeger's. Gunter must be trying to amortize the makeover a little faster. The title of the story is a misnomer. These are not 'The Most Expensive Restaurants in the U.S.'--not by a long shot. What they are is 'The Most Expensive Restaurants in a Dozen And A Half Or So American Cities and One Exurb.'

Wow. Thanks for the lovely docudrama, Steven, as well as articulating the declension in flavours. We were at one of Ducasse's satellites the other night--Mix in Las Vegas--but the only chicken (and easily the least expensive main course at $32) was more simply billed as 'free range'. Of course that would make it the only free range animal--human or otherwise--in that city. The article upthread states that 'Finally, after years of trial and error, Thiessen engineered a bird that sent Vancouver’s French chefs into a tizzy and eventually made its way to one of Shipley’s co-op’s Central Valley farms, where it’s now bred exclusively and distributed on the East Coast by D’Artagnan.' In checking around with a sampling of Vancouver's French chefs though, only one (so far) had confirmed its use: Marc-Andre Choquette at Lumière. He likes the product (available here via Connoisseur) very much and has had solid feedback on it. I've never seen it branded in a Vancouver restaurant though--Lumière is known for its poussin. J. PS: What was the price of the chicken (presumably for two) at Ducasse, Steven?

Thanks for your interesting insights, Irwin. Do the kill and set times as stated in the article jibe with the standards you've seen elsewhere?

I too have been forced to connect these thoughts when pulling birds. On the other hand, so to speak, it's profoundly superior to the common pullet.

If only Pinochet had listened.

Adam, out of interest, have you tried a Brillbury Hall Farm cockeral yet? Tiny but flavousome production if this account is to be trusted. Is there a local bird that you put your faith in? In addition to the ones down the pub, that is.

Your question gave me pause: Exactly why are Americans sheepish about sheep? But first, for our family at least (where the men are men and the sheep are nervous), a few seasonal favourites: Easter: A traditional leg of roasted lamb, started in a very hot oven, then cooked long and low. For this we use the local Saltspring Island lamb. For the last few years though, we've been going to the home of Greco-Canadian friends where they spit roast two whole lambs, swabbing them with bunches of rosemary branches dipped in Eleni olive oil. The skin tears away in crispy shards; the offal renders pungent sausages. Summer: Butterflied leg and rack chops (six per person for garnish) marinated in oil and rosemary, then grilled. Quite often Oregon or Washington lamb. Autumn: Whole lamb shank osso buco of New Zealand lamb which is slightly less Jurrasic in dimension allowing two per serving over risotto Milanese. Winter: Braised lamb shoulder Provençal or Greek shepherd style. Oz lamb works well. But back to your question—here are some possible answers: 1. Historical reasons of territorial challenges with cattlemen; 2. Lamb is less efficient to mass produce (and therefore more expensive) than beef, pork, chicken and turkey. The last two have seen by far the largest per capita consumption growth over the past two decades in the U.S. The U.S. will produce about 7.8 million sheep and lambs this year versus about 105 million head of cattle and calf; 3. A Leg of lamb is more challenging to carve than, say, a sausage of miscellaneous pork by-products; 4. According to a USDA report, most Americans do not consume any lamb. Per capita lamb consumption was .8 lb. on a boneless equivalent in 2003. Overall U.S. consumer lamb preference is for high-value lamb legs, racks and loin cuts. In contrast, New Zealanders consume 50 pounds of lamb and mutton per year followed by Australians, who consume about 37 pounds annually. [Lamb and mutton are the principal meats in regions of North Africa, the Middle East, India and parts of Europe. The European Union claims to be the world’s largest consumer and the number one importer of lamb]; 5. Lamb is considered a little déclassé by the chattering classes. U.S. lamb consumption peaked just after WWII, to be replaced in popularity by beef, then poultry; 6. It’s easier to order a beef burger than a lamb burger at most drive-thru windows; 7. Unlike revenge, mutton is not best eaten cold; and 8. That’s why God invented curry.

Mum kept us to a strict regimine of a scant four meals a day. We cheated frequently and when caught I would simply reclassify the nocturnal fridge-emptying as an 'early breakfast'. And although I moved away from Mum's dawn interrogations some 30 years ago, to this day I remain addicted to the thrill of the midnight hunt. Do you preplan your raids or are they a capella? Sandwich or a simple dive into the casserole? Reheat or ice cold? Spousal punishment or actual alliance? Please share your Nocturnal Admissions.

Menu proteins have long since been branded--from Copper River salmon to Wagyu beef--sometimes right down to their mothers' maiden names. Thus far the lowly chicken has escaped the madness, except for the 'med-free/ free range' metal badges of honour that puncture their breasts. No longer. Canadian Peter Thiessen, who developed a facsimile of France's vaunted Poulet de Bresse version (which comes with a leg band announcing its own A.O.C. status) has passed on the code to Bob Shipley's Central Valley Farms. It's now distributed to restaurants such as Per Se and Alain Ducasse by D'Artagnan. Does it taste more like chicken?

I've just come off a road trip early (to attend Werner Forster's wake on Sunday) and read this thread. I thought that I might contribute what I know to consolidate, clarify and correct some of the information regarding the Lumière 10th Anniversary celebrations: 1. As below, there are a series of dinners and events--some by invitation, some public, and at various price points, with a couple gratis. 2. Some $6,000 has been pledged from one of these dinners (with Charlie Trotter) to The Chefs' Table Society of BC. Additionally, six apprentice chefs, nominated by their member-chefs, will attend the prep and dinner. Rob Feenie is a founding director of CTS (as am I) and I view this as an extraordinarily generous donation to the society. 3. One of the events honours suppliers and regulars, at no cost. 4. Rob and Charlie have cooked together many times and cook similarly--both pioneered small plates (tasting menu) dining in the mid-nineties. There is little reason to fear that they'll have any difficulty syncopating their service for 56 diners at this event. Please find below a calendar of events for Lumière's 10th Anniversary celebrations this November, followed by details of each event. November 7th Lumière 10th Anniversary party November 13th "An Encore Performance" dinner November 18th Charlie Trotter/ Rob Feenie dinner November 21st Winemakers' Dinner November 28th The Local Heroes Dinner--with Michel Jacob & Rob Feenie Also this fall, Lumière welcomes back Chris Stearns from his year in Montreal. Join Chris and Jamie Boudreau behind the Lumière Tasting Bar Friday through Sunday starting October 7th. ______________________________________ PUBLIC EVENT -10th Anniversary Party Monday, November 7th - 6:00 pm - 10:00 pm 10th Anniversary Party - Lumière Restaurant Cocktail and Canapés Party Official launch of a month of events celebrating Lumière's 10th anniversary Invited guests will include media, industry, suppliers and regular guests. By Invitation. No cost. ___________________________________ PUBLIC EVENT - An Encore Performance Sunday, November 13th - An Encore Performance Former Lumière star chefs return, preparing a course each. 5:30 pm - 7:00 pm reception 7:00 pm dinner A multi course dinner includes reception, 8 courses, wines, complimentary valet parking, taxes and gratuities. $195 per person. Reservations guaranteed by credit card. Call 604-739-8155 Many of Vancouver's best young chefs have come through Lumière...tonight they return for an encore performance.... The kitchen will be lively tonight with chefs, once juniors in the Lumière kitchen, who have gone on to make their own mark. We expect to see parents, industry supporters and guests who have supported the careers of these talented young chefs. Together with Rob join Marnie Coldham (CRU) Ned Bell (Luciano's Restaurant Group) Tina Fineza (Diva, Bin 942, George) Guy Leggett (CRU) and other alumni for what should be a very fun evening. _______________________________________________________ Join Chefs Rob Feenie and Charlie Trotter for an intimate dinner at Lumière November 18th, 2005 6:00 pm - 7:00 pm Vintage Champagne reception, canapés 7:30 pm - A multi course dinner shared between chefs Rob Feenie and Charlie Trotter. Dinner includes reception, 12 courses, vintage wines, complimentary valet parking, taxes and gratuities as well as signed copies of the menus and a signed cookbook from each chef. $1000 per person. Reservations guaranteed by credit card and deposit - Call 604-739-8155 From the press release: 'In 1995 Rob traveled to Chicago and met Chef Charlie Trotter. This young chef inspired him and they kept in touch. On one of his trips to Chicago over those years Charlie inspired him, and encouraged him to risk serving tasting menus exclusively. Chef Trotter has been a friend and mentor and a fellow member of Relais and Chateaux, Traditions Qualité and 5 Diamond "club" and he travels back to Vancouver to once again share in a celebration with Rob.' Apprentice and Student Chef Dinner with Charlie Trotter Press reception, kitchen tour 6:00 pm - 7:00 pm Vintage Champagne Reception, canapés 7:30 pm - A multi course dinner shared between chefs Rob Feenie and Charlie Trotter. Dinner includes reception, 12 courses, vintage wines, complimentary valet parking, taxes and gratuities as well as signed copies of the menus and a signed cookbook from each chef, as well as photographs with the two chefs. Table for 6 in The Lumière Tasting Bar. No cost. Chefs Rob Feenie and Charlie Trotter are donating 6 seats to a group of up and coming young British Columbia chefs. They will donate the cost of those dinners to the Chefs' Table Society of BC Scholarship and Bursary Fund. Young chefs need to be nominated by their executive chefs and names will be drawn by lottery. Overnight accommodation will be provided for any chef coming from out of town. ______________________________________________________ Public event - Michel Jacob, Lumière and Le Crocodile Dinner Monday, November 28th - The Local Heroes Dinner Chef Michel Jacob of Le Crocodile with Chef Rob Feenie 6:00 - 7:00 reception - 7:00 pm dinner A multi course dinner with shared between chefs Rob Feenie and Michel Jacob with Rob preparing Le Crocodile dishes with a twist! Dinner includes reception, 8 courses, wines, complimentary valet parking, taxes and gratuities. $250 per person. Reservations guaranteed by credit card. Call 604-739-8155 Chef Michel Jacob is part of the backbone of the Vancouver restaurant scene and he was the executive chef of a young up and coming cook back in the earl nineties by the name of Rob Feenie. Join Rob and Michel as they cook together for the first time since 1994. _____________________________________________________ Monday, November 21st - Winemakers Dinner Lieutenant Governor's Awards of Excellence in British Columbia Wines Winemakers Dinner 6:00 - 7:00 pm Reception 7:00 pm Dinner A multi Course dinner prepared by Chef Rob Feenie paired with 10 outstanding award-winning wines. Dinner is for invited media, winemakers and winery principals. Our apologies, we have just 25 seats and no room for guests. Complimentary valet parking. By Invitation. No cost. Join Winery Principals and Winemakers from: Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards (See ya Later Ranch Brut 2003), Summerhill Pyramid Winery (Ehrenfelser 2004) CedarCreek Estate Winery (Platinum Reserve Chardonnay 2003), Wild Goose Vineyards and Winery (God's Mountain Riesling 2004), Domaine de Chaberton Estates (Gewurztraminer 2004), Jackson-Triggs (Vintners Proprietors' Grand Reserve Shiraz 2002), Burrowing Owl Estate Winery (Syrah 2003) Sandhill Wines (Small Lots 'Syrah' Phantom Creek Vineyard 2003), Poplar Grove Winery (Benchmark Cabernet Franc 2002) and CedarCreek Estate Winery (Platinum Reserve Meritage 2002).

Seven years ago, Iqbal Wahab received 18 death threats when he published a piece in Tandoori magazine accusing Asian waiters of being ‘miserable gits’ who gave poor service. In response (nothing like a few death threats to focus the mind), he started The Cinnamon Club. Now, at his new restaurant called Roast (at the Borough Market), he wants to revolutionize classic and modern British restaurant cookery, whose resurgence he maintains in this article in The Independent today, has been constrained by physically challenged properties, especially the small kitchens and disconnected rooms found in gastropubs. He’ll be featuring spit roasts and jellied eels, The 'market salad' is venison with baby beetroot and horseradish. Mains include grilled rare ox hearts with worcestershire onions and bone marrow, and calf's liver with champ and devils on horseback. He says his menu will be affordable and served forth in a contemporary environment. Or so he promises. And he also threatens English wines, although he’ll offer ‘none out of charity.’ Of course he beat back many better known chain operators such as Ramsay and Conran for the honour. Whether or not you attended the soft opening this week, I'd be interested to hear your opinions of his vision and concept. Will he succeed? Roast is in the Floral Hall, Stoney Street, London SE1 (020-7940 1300)

Not over your shoulder, I trust.

I think that the same essential rules of the road apply here as they do for so-called professional critics or reviewers. Thou Shalt Not: 1. Rant without explanation; 2. Heap praise without explanation; 3. Make flamboyantly emotional statements as if they were fact; 4. Inflict personal vendettas on a wider audience; 5. Judge a restaurant by the relative attractiveness (i.e. movie-idol looks or Cactus Club navel-gazing moments) of its personnel; 6. Be anything less than honest; 7. Forget one’s shoes.

Thank you for a lovely week, Chris. Very insightful, and a terrific overview of J & W. I hope the flour settles for you next week, and that you can exhale. Well done. Jamie

I second Bob's recommendation of the reisling jelly from Les Amis and others' go-to-Joe recs for Epoisse and others. Don't turn your nose up at some of the nutty Bries . . . Here are two wines that we enjoyed over Thanksgiving. Both multi-tasked from bird to cheese, especially the Spinifex: Loimer 04 Reisling Langenlois (Austria) 12.0%/vol (CDN $24.90) that really shook hands with the bird--very elegant structure, minerally but supple, neat with milder cheeses.Beautiful bottle. With the cheese course after dessert (several guests were in distress by this point), we opened a bottle of 03 Spinifex Esprit from the Barossa (CDN $35.90). It's 40% granache, 34% mataro, 21% shiraz and 5% cinsault. Unfiltered and 15.0%/vol there were only 265 cases produced by Domain Jardin in Nuriootpa, South Australia. A delightfully complex bruiser--by turns aggressive and nuanced--from old, low-yielding vines. Edited to say: both were purchased from Marquis.

I`ll have one of Castelnaudary`s finest please if any one could be kind enough to upload a portion. ← And here's why $22 is quite a steal. I think it's called patience. Or ingredients of heart-breaking majesty, skill, muti-part cookery, patience, assembly and a hell of a lot of washing up.

That was alittle frustrating about the press release, Kurtis--they didn't mention the selection process nor the also-rans. Could well be that the Canadian vintners were VQA only. Anyway, interesting to see how these ten stacked up . . .

I received this press release from the BCWI this evening, which I have edited for length: A few observations first though: It doesn't mention which bottles placed 11th through 18th; no bottle broke through 90 points; no prices are mentioned. But still, it's an interesting read. I'll be interested to see Stephen's and others' remarks about its veracity. CedarCreek takes first place overall at head-to-head competition BC’s Bordeaux-style red blends are continuing their march to the top of the red wine world. A tasting today in Ottawa pitted six of BC’s red blends against six from the Bordeaux region of France and six from Ontario. BC wines took three of the top four and five of the top ten spots, with CedarCreek’s Platinum Reserve Meritage 2002 coming out on top. CedarCreek Estate Winery is in Kelowna. The five other BC wines finished as follows: Burrowing Owl 2002 Reserve Meritage was third, Sumac Ridge 2001 Pinnacle fourth, Osoyoos Larose 2002 ninth, Mission Hill Oculus 2002 tenth, and Fairview Cellars Bear’s Meritage 2002 seventeenth. Today’s tasting, called Canada vs. Bordeaux: The Dawn of a New Millennium, was a fundraiser organized by the Vendange Institute in Ottawa. The event was modeled after the famed 1976 Judgement of Paris, when an English wine merchant in Paris organized a blind tasting of French and Californian wines in celebration of the US bicentennial. To the surprise of the mostly French judges, California wines took top honours over the prestigious French wines. Following are the top ten results from today’s challenge, including their ranking in the 100-point system. 1. 89.32 Cedar Creek 2002 Platinum Reserve Meritage (BC) 2. 87.88 Colio 2000 CEV Reserve Merlot (Ontario) 3. 87.39 Burrowing Owl 2002 Reserve Meritage (BC) 4. 87.30 Sumac Ridge 2001 Pinnacle (BC) 5. 86.70 Chateau Lascombes 2000 (Bordeaux) 6. 86.37 Chateau Pontet-Canet 2001 (Bordeaux) 7. 86.31 Stoney Ridge 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (Ontario) 8. 85.72 Chateau Rauzan-Gassies 2000 (Bordeaux) 9. 85.68 Osoyoos Larose 02 (BC) 10. 84.83 Mission Hill Oculus 02 (BC)

Transfattyacid, in another thread, said of Mistral, ' . . . it is in my eyes the most significant restaurant opening this year (thus far).' Bold statement. He also mentioned that 'I believe not enough has been said about this place, here on eG or in the media.' I don't disagree, with the latter statement at least, and just thought I'd throw this thread back up to the top to see if anyone else has enjoyed it as much as we have. After several visits, the test is that it's tough to decide just which rusticated entrée might claim your attention tonight: • Daube de boeuf ($19) • Cassoulet Castelnaudary ($22 - lamb shoulder and duck leg cinfit with lamb sausage and white navy beans) • Grilled tombo à la Provençale ($21), with Niçoise olives, zucchinis, thyme and fennel; • Blanquette of roasted chicken breast in a morel-laden cream sauce ($22) • Rib eye au poivre ($25) that was an outright bargain. The spinach velouté ($7.50), mentioned previously, is capped with a chèvre foam and is worth the journey. Any (recent) takers?

No worries at all--happy to be of help. And you're right, I was kind of surprised that Mistral hasn't warranted more attention. Have a good shift, Jamie

First, please call me Jamie, Mr. Transfattyacid. Second, as you're probably aware, we intersperse our reviews with backround features on the busines of restaurateuring and other issues such as sustainability, liquor legislation, distribution, farming and fishing etc. that face the industry and our readers. That being said, I am a huge fan of Fay Maschler. My (non-food) business career in finance has taken me many times to England over the past 25 years and I remain loyal to her judgement and also, importantly, to the fact that she is emotionally detached. Of course she has a weekly platform. I don't always enjoy that pleasure, although time permitting, I have been fortunate to extend beyond Vancouver magazine half a dozen times this year for The Globe. Perhaps most importantly for consistently excellent local restaurants though, are the articles that few locals ever see, often for overseas periodicals. They do tend to review the stalwart restaurants, because their editors and readers demand 'best of the best' lists. Additionally, we host many visiting food and travel journalists. The same rules typically apply. But please also take into consideration what I mentioned upthread--our publication of the Vancouver magazine Eating & Drinking Guide to British Columbia. That provides updated reviews, ratings and other important information. It will be available on newstands next week for $7.95. With regard to your last point, i.e. Mistral, upthread I mentioned that I wrote an extensive (and positive) review of the restaurant a month ago. It was in the Globe DISH section. Upon return visits, I decided I liked it so much that we ran an updated review, incorporating their new lunch service, for the November issue of Vancouver. That will be available to you in two weeks. Jamie

Very interesting question to me--and rather near and dear. Actually Neil, I reviewed Mistral (with the backstory on the move) on September 16th in The Globe. I'm doing a short feature on Lumiere post the Charlie Trotter dinner. Cocco Pazzo we discussed (briefly) here. Chambar has tightened its service regime and motored through the summer without a patio. But the question remains interesting nonetheless . . . So your combinative question is a good one TFA and Neil. But first, a wee word about the realities of modern publishing--space. There's never enough. It is difficult to go back (especially in a monthly format) and pick up very many veteran restaurants with the frequency they deserve. That's one important reason that we developed the concept of The Eating & Drinking Guide to BC three years ago. That periodical does recalibrate and update every important (12+/20) restaurant, every year. It's a leviathan task, but like you, we think it an important one. This year there are 700+ restaurants (100 new additions), with many assigned stars under the new one, two and three star system. By the way, only five restaurants in the province qualified for three stars. Thanks for your industrial perspective and thoughts, you two.

OK--time's up. I’m certainly not taking Alex (who is a colleague and friend) to task about this—and I don’t want to separate the fly shit from the pepper—just having a little fun. But there were open kitchens dating well before Diva opened its doors--exhibition (or open) kitchens have a lengthy history here. I cooked in one at The Attic (shortly after the Crimean War) and my brother likewise at Hy’s at The Sands—in its famous grill pulpit. Hell, the oyster bars that peppered Cordova Street were the city’s first open raw bars (but also served angels on horseback), almost a century before No. 5 Orange opened its doors. The best known one in the Post-Arugula Epoch is the forno and pass at CinCin (and many Earls for that matter). But the most legendary open kitchen was at Vern’s. The eponymous proprietor, who cooked from his wheelchair, was a tough old cudgel. One night, at closing time, after the newsmen (including Denny Boyd) had finished their last rye and one of Vern’s very good hamburgers and paid up, a thief walked in and demanded the night’s takings. Vern reached up from behind his counter, pulled the thief over bodily, and griddled his eyes shut. Moral: Tip tidily and leave quietly.