jamiemaw

I have been waiting for a little nudge in the right direction on that one myself. ← Local culinary anthropologists will find the clues in Post#2, upthread.

Neil, I didn't think you mean-spirited at all. Quite the contrary in fact. But because Michael Noble has achieved near-mythical status for his skill and mentoring, the perception might still be out there that the kitchen slipped after his departure. Not so, and I was merely pointing this out. I've used Diva for noon hour business (especially after Chartwell closed for lunch), for years, interchanging it with Bacchus and a couple of downtown restaurants. I've always found it top drawer and a good place for conversation, with skilled but unobtrusive service. And I've also found their wine dinners terrific. Want real value though? Go for a weekend breakfast, around the time civilians go elsewhere for brunch, an aberration of the chattering classes.

I didn't think that Diva had fallen at all. In fact Chris Mills' (now Joey's Global development chef), Andrew Springett (Wickaninnish Inn) and Scott Baechler's (Fairmont Dubai) cooking was every bit as competent (and consistent) as their mentor's. I thought that Baechler acquited himself particularly well at a Beard dinner in Toronto during his reign. I've long thought that Diva was a strong testament to Henry Wu's commitment to a solid F & B program. Mathew Opferkuch and Jeremy Roncoroni assembled a strong cellar, including many hard-to-find Cascadians. Alain Léger was easily the best off-site (catering) chef in the city. Thomas is Thomas. And Diva's weekend breakfasts, with a duvet of good newspapers, are particularly civilized, the sablefish hash with scallion oil and brilliant eggs justifiably legendary. Sharp-eyed readers may have other remarks to make.

It was Alexandra Gill in the Globe and Mail but you'll need to register. Here are a few sample lines: "Oh, how the mighty have fallen." "It really is very bad, isn't it?" says Fiona Morrow, co-editor of the upcoming Time Out guide to Vancouver, as we push off our half-eaten plates, puckering at the new chef's discordant clash of flavours." "Noble's down-market shift sheds a bit of light on Diva's current problems. Ten years ago, when Vancouver was a culinary backwater, the city's first exhibition kitchen certainly stood out. But now, with some of the city's best chefs setting lofty new standards at entry-level establishments, it's seems absurd that some high-end restaurants are still coasting on their glory days." "'The most disgusting combination I ever ate in my life,' she declares." I'll be interested to see sharp-eyed members' remarks.

Don't know of the whereabouts of the Wallers--perhaps Shelora can help. But I can attest to Simon Manvell's cooking. We had a family dinner at Dock 503 several weeks ago that made an articulate statement about Saanich's producers and then got out of the way of the wonderful ingredients--a really practiced touch. Not incidentally, we stayed nearby at Miraloma, which I would also recommend. We also went to the Brentwood Bay Resort. The weather was agreeable and we took advantage of the nightly barbecue on the verandah. At $18.95, it was a steal--ribs and chicken, baked potato, slaw etc. The next door dining room, called The Arbutus Grille, was doing well, overseen by chef Alain Léger (ex-Metropolitan Hotel. and Earls Dev Chef), in my mind one of the best, and most undersung, chefs in the province. Several of the off-site dinners that he catered for The Met counted as the best catered events I've attended. Full stop. It was to be his second-to-last week at Brentwood Bay. Léger has accepted the position of executive chef of Truffles Group, which, in addition to Canoe Brew Pub, also has a large catering component. Good luck.

Keith, Typically the cut-off is a quarter section. My uncle is a longtime dental floss rancher though, and looks down his nose at anyone ranching less than 2,000 acres. By the way, the fine, menthol type is much harder to grow in coastal conditions, but attracts a higher market price. His foray into butcher cord was a disaster and marked the lean years when my cousins had to leave Crofton House and take public transit. In your own case, in Richmond, British Columbia, less than five pots is a hobbyist, more than five pots a grow-op.

So then the next question is...where does the "tank" waste go? ← It is recycled to fertilize Bruce's adjoining wasabi ranch.

Just spit tea all over the new laptop ← Sorry. But once you've seen the thong-tied drop trou to 'Snowbird', or the unintentionally ironic 'All of Me', you'll never go back--behold the nubility oblige at Peeler Bar A and Peeler Bar B. PS: Constant Dining Companion was looking over my shoulder at the Tongue Art. I posed the question. She answered, 'Joan Rivers' leftovers.'

No. What did they say, Keith?

It's you, about 30 seconds before you went under the needle for your first tatt. Remember? Just a cheap and lascivious pun, Chris. Up here, peeler bars also refer to strip clubs, not unlike the ones you drive by on the way to work. Unfortunately though, it's a federal law here that they have to dance to Celine Dion, Anne Murray or Robert Goulet. No substitutions.

This comment, coming from the 2005 eGullet-Dayquil Wine Tasting Awardee, I take very seriously.

Thank you all for the surfeit of warm words, so to speak. I very much look forward to joining you at table for the next decade. Jamie

On this side of the pond we enjoyed him on the radio show Just a Minute.

I read somewhere that 'C' has some tank raised salmon as well as part of the Aquarium's Oceanwise program. So whats the deal with "tank" raised over farmed. Does it just mean that the waste isn't cycled into the ocean? ← Closed environment farming eliminates in-situ fecal and feed pellet pollution, and the escapement of sea lice into the juvenile wild population. In the case of C, the coho are farmed in Agassiz, an area previously not well known for its coho production. Coho has a firm, tight texture, removing one of the chief complaints against most farmed product--the mush factor.

Nice Bazookas, Chris. And it restores my faith in contemporary education that you confiscated that copy of 'Critical Pedagogy' from a wayward student. Looking forward to the peeler bars too, but please resolve our dilemma: shrimp or chix? Seriously, thanks for the engaging tour of the 'Beehive of Industry' and life beyond johnny-cakes and quahogs - although we'd love to see some of them too. I read somewhere that there are more restaurants by pop in Providence than anywhere else in the States. Including lots of Italian. Any chance of a visit, or maybe to an oyster bar?

David Rosengarten's article in Departures seems thoroughly researched.

Neil, The best kind of collaborative efforts can deliver on several fronts. Like commercial success during a slower time while making competitors allies and drawing attention to an entire gastro-rich neighbourhood. You make better friends along the way too, and, I suspect, you'll draw people back later. So congratulations to you and your fellow-proprietors for building this project so strongly for its inaugural run. I hope it continues to be a smash for many years to come, and am pleased to know that you aren't simply relying on your movie star looks. J.

As Andrew reported on the Openings and Closings thread this morning, Bis Moreno has been sold. The press release essentially quoted family reasons: the burden of raising a young family while both parents were involved in the operation of the restaurant. Earlier this year, to ease the hours, Cinzia Miotto took a day job out of the industry. The restaurant opened to raves and was well promoted by Alexander Ink. We ran a review that was published in tandem with a Chef at Large show (about the business of restaurant reviewing), that was seen across the country. The restaurant placed second in the EnRoute magazine Best New Restaurants of 2003. It also won the hearts and minds of our 30-odd critics in the 2004 Best New Restaurant (Fine Dining) category, outpacing Cru, Parkside and Aurora to a gold award. The Miottos did a lot of things right, including their investment in brutally hard work and long hours but without the benefit of a consistent return on that investment. So what went wrong? Certainly Moreno can cook. I ate several extraordinary dishes there: white asparagus soup with truffle oil, panko-coated spaghetti with marinated anchovies and mandarin orange segments (vivid--and perhaps the best pasta dish I’ve eaten in Vancouver), and lobster-crammed raviolis in a tomato and basil sauce. The opening wine service was educational and thoughtful too. But I think there were other issues at work. And I thought mention of them might be useful to consider. 1. Location. A graveyard restaurant space that buried Massimo’s, Café Milano, (Andrey Durbach's) Étoile, Zinfandel, and then a Greek joint that sounded like a herbal dandruff remedy. And right across the street from one of the most successful restaurants in the province, which can be a little demoralizing, especially on summer nights (see 5, below). 2. Small Plates/Tasting Menu in a Formal Setting. Moreno opened and then hung on (too stubbornly, I think) to lengthy tasting menus. Early on, the wait between courses frequently crossed the 15-minute divide between anticipation and the fidgets. One evening took almost three hours. Vancouverites aren't eager to commit to that mid-week, at least not without the buzz of other, more casual small plates alternatives. By the time the menu converted to an a la carte option, it may have been too late (see 6. below). Small Plates is a bit of bait-and-switch. When you and I go to a casual room we think 'hmm, 2 (people) x 2.5 (dishes each) x $13 ($65) ain't gong to kill us.' But a tasting menu, with the prices posted at $75 - $100 makes the commitment-fearful (time and money) run away. In reality, when alcohol is measured in, the average checks converge. But it's been proven that Vancouverites want to look at dinner more as a date than a marriage. And that's why Feenie's, for example, is more profitable than Lumière. 3. A Cool Room. The blue room was handsome, but spare and cool. Its monastic quality seemed more encouraging of whispering than laughter, although a superb fistfight broke out one night, one of the perps being a middle-aged woman with a terrific left uppercut. Some people liked it very much, but perhaps not enough. 4. Too Few Go-Backs. Somewhere between the one-timer and the regular lies the Go-Back, those who probably need a sitter and dine out once or twice a month. Many people visited only once; the reasons above, together with 6, below, apply 5. No Patio. Tough to keep your suppliers happy when Labour Day looks a thousand miles away. 6. Suspension of Marketing. Usually the first thing to go in a revenue-static operation is the PR, marketing and advertising. Alexander Ink, after a highly succesful campaign, went first. The 'front-of-mind' battle for potential patrons went next. 7. Husband and Wife Operation. Tough. 8. Fatigue. When the raindance for bums-in-seats stops working, it stops being fun. The passion erodes too. I wish Cinzia and Moreno the very best in their new careers, and dearly hope to see his flavours show up elsewhere in his new role as menu consultant. Their contribution via Bis Moreno was brief but large. I'll miss them, and their tomato sauce--the best in the city. Jamie

The Ocean Club promises to open soon on the West Van bank of the Capilano River. From the sound of their press release, some of us may fail to clear the velvet rope . . . THE OCEAN CLUB Vancouver 's Coolest New Restaurant and Lounge Set to Open December 2005 on the North Shore West Vancouver , BC - There's a cool breeze blowing onto Vancouver's North Shore and it's coming from The Ocean Club. West Vancouver may be one of the toniest postal codes in Canada, but until now there hasn't been a night scene to meet the needs of some of Canada's coolest (and wealthiest) people. Opening early December 2005, The Ocean Club introduces a whole new concept to Vancouver night life. Based on the best of Las Vegas and New York, The Ocean Club will feature a restaurant and lounge with the kind of high standards and innovative design that will make it the destination of choice for the "who's who" of Vancouver. Whether people have made it or want to make it, this is the place to see and be seen. "The Ocean Club will compete with the best of Vancouver for food, service, and atmosphere," says Managing Partner Andre Thomas. "We want this to be a modern gathering place where the dining will be casual but intelligent." Thomas brings a wealth of experience to his position. In addition to opening the award-winning Fifty Two 80 Bistro at the brand-new Four Seasons Resort Whistler in 2004, Thomas was previously the General Manager of Whistler's top restaurant, Araxi. And he built award-winning wine lists at Four Seasons and the Westin Whistler. He also managed a Liberty Wine Merchant store and worked for Joe Fortes for eight years. He is the perfect guy to implement the latest vision of Derek Pink and Dave Kershaw. Pink and Kershaw are best known for some of the hottest night spots on the West Coast. Together they own and operate AuBar, Tonic and Stone Temple in Vancouver, and Garfinkel's and the recently-acquired Savage Beagle in Whistler. The Ocean Club is a significant departure from their previous operations and represents a commitment to a much more sophisticated crowd. Licensed until 3 a.m., The Ocean Club will have an elegant and intimate atmosphere with lots of sex appeal. Sharing is encouraged by a menu that features small plates and reasonable prices (everything under $20). The theme of the menu is Pacific Northwest and the chef is Doug Scott, one of Vancouver's rising culinary stars. Scott was previously the Executive Sous-Chef at Seasons in the Park and also spent time in some of the West Coast's best kitchens including Araxi, Raincity Grill and Ciopinno's. Tending the bar is one of Canada's most engaging mixologists. Darryl McDonald, formerly of Four Seasons Resort Whistler and Araxi, has been making a name for himself – both for his sensational hand-crafted cocktails and his boyish charm and good looks. McDonald's drinks will be served from a bar designed by Vancouver's M-Studio and patrons will enjoy his creations relaxing in the raised lounge or next to the fireplace on the 800 square foot heated patio on the banks of the Capilano River. In addition to the restaurant and lounge, the adjacent Oceanside Liquor Store will provide a selection of the best wine and spirits. Both The Ocean Club and the Oceanside Liquor Store are located beside the Park Royal Mall providing plenty of parking and easy access.

Braise an ox.

I try to remain cool, calm and collective whenever I see "Beef dip with au jus".

Can I use this as a cover blurb for my new book, Sam? By the way, you're the only member that I mention by name in the article.

Neil, I was indeed referring to the type of diner who spends an inordinate amount of time (and money) trying to inflict upon anyone within earshot his or her ability to separate the fly shit from the pepper. They typically have an even disposition though—a chip on both shoulders.

Here's a link to a petite report on our weekend. J.

Speak for yourself. And Thanksgiving Greetings from Kelowna, British Columbia (in the heart of the Okanagan Wine Country) . . . Canadian Thanksgiving traditionally celebrates the end of harvest, the changeover from short pants to corduroy trousers, the brining of turkeys in driveway salt, and the beginning of the hockey season. Canadian men have been exhausted for the past year as we've been suffering through the season-long National Hockey League strike. We're exhausted because this has meant endless home renovations and a lot of extra sex. But now we're returning to time-honoured rituals such as making love in the style of the hound so that both parties can enjoy the nightly hockey highlights reel. We've been celebrating Thanksgiving for the past three days and nights as the harvest has been going on around us: the last of the tomatoes and the Bosc and Bartlety pears; Delicious, Spartan and McIntosh apples; and, of course, the wine grapes. It's going to be a solid, if not spectacular vintage, characterized by a warm August followed by big temperature spikes in late September: from 1˚C overnight to 25˚C (about 34˚ to 77˚ F) at 3pm. The big reds are being hauled in from the Oliver benches, about an hour south, where the hand of the Sonora Desert reaches over the Canada/US border. We live in white wine and pinot noir country, high above the lake where the breezes keep the temperature a little lower in the summer. Thanksgiving is a half-week festival--nay, orgy--of meats and local produce. We certainly sampled many local bottles. The best local turkey accompaniment was the Mission Hill 03 Five Vineyards Dry Reisling (CDN $15.99--it won a gold medal at this year's Los Angeles County Fair wine competition) and the plush CedarCreek Platinum Reserve pinot noir (CDN $35.09). Our long weekend began with a turkey dinner with the usual accessories (Brussels sprouts, peas, cranberry sauce, roasted carrots, sausage stuffing, whipped potatoes and a hearty gravy) on Friday night in Vancouver. On Saturday, we came up to the wine country, about a 35-minute drive in a WestJet 737. Some German- and Ukranian-Canadian friends entertained us with a crab 'Nicoise' salad with a Louis-styled dressing, a lightly smoked ham, fabulous perogies and Ukranian sausages, squash and scalloped potatoes. Last night was the big family and friends sitdown for 14: Oyama saucisson and beer in the garden, then, compliments of one of our guests, chef Murray Bancroft, a starter of Kobe beef slices over baby arugula in a simple lemon and olive oil vinaigrette. At table: two turkeys, mashed potatoes, sprouts in sweet vinaigrette with walnuts, squash casserole, roasted carrots, etc. The Kobe beef was sliced thinly and briefly seared--it had the near-texture and unctuous flavour of foie gras. Aunty Prim's Brussels sprouts (she lives there) were steamed and then finished in a maple syrup-raised vinaigrette. The local walnuts were added for crunch. They performed admirably. All three dinners finished with pumpkin pie with whipped cream. Of the many wines we sampled, it was one local and two long distance bottles that stood out. Last night's selections were the best: we started with Blue Mountain NV Brut bubbly. Then spectacular bottles of 04 Loimer Reisling Langenlois (Austria) 12.0%/vol (CDN $24.90) that really shook hands with the bird--very elegant structure, minerally but supple. With the non-cheese course after dessert (several guests were in distress by this point), we opened a bottle of 03 Spinifex Esprit from the Barossa (CDN $35.90). It's 40% granache, 34% mataro, 21% shiraz and 5% cinsault. Unfiltered and 15.0%/vol there were only 256 cases produced by Domain Jardin in Nuriootpa, SA. A delightfully complex bruiser from old, low-yielding vines. Today is all about turkey sandwiches on Irish soda bread with mayonnaise, cranberries, salt and pepper. That's it. The fire is on, the recycling box is full, the hockey game comes later. We're going to open a bottle of 95 Gewurtztraminer Grand Cru Mambourg from Alsace and turn out the lights. This is life--and the giving of thanks for all its abundance--as we know it here. Cheers, Jamie