jamiemaw

Oh, how sad...how very, very sad. I was lucky enough to try a Lafite-Rothschild 1972 Pauillac in...1994 or so, and I think I will remember it till the day I die. It sounds as though it was a really lovely evening, Jamie, thank you so much for giving us the glimpse through the curtains. Did you have the Terrine or the Ragout? the Terrine sounds simply heavenly! ← Both, actually, Deborah. And I had my hand slapped by Yvonne for swiping some of her ragout. Doug Psaltis should be so lucky.

I was conceived in Chicago, at the Sherman Hotel. If you think that this might be a tad too much information, you might imagine how I felt when my 82-year old mother brought conversation to a standstill around the dinner table last Christmas night, embroidering the tale with elaborate detail. The point of the story is that I have a fondness for the gusty, broad-shouldered place and certainly for its restaurants. I manage to find my way there every so often. Last night though, one of Chicago’s iconic chefs, Charlie Trotter, managed to find his way here. I have little truck for celebrity, especially the American version. I’d rather just eat dinner. But there’s certainly some that’s deserved through dint of hard work and the sort of supremely focused, almost tubular vision that delivers food at the level of what we ate last night. I’ll begin by saying that this was a very relaxed evening—without a trace of chefly angst or audience pretension: we were there to eat. And drink. It was also very festive, the generous-of-spirit feeling that you might find in a dining room about a month from now. I think that the Lumière crew were very wise to limit the number of guests, so that the intervals between the 12 courses could be spaced at just 12 to 15 minutes. Very impressive delivery and service. Yvonne and I shared an amusing and occasionally hilarious table with Anthony von Mandl (Mission Hill), Jim Portis (Food Arts, New York), Jake Richler (The National Post, Toronto) and his girlfriend Lisa, and Sean Heather (The Irish Heather). David and Annabel Hawksworth of West and Top Table, and Michel Jacob of Le Crocodile, sat nearby. The room was very simply decorated: white linen, low ivory roses in silver bud vases, white plates throughout the service. André, Neil and Chris paced the service attentively throughout. You'll note from Vancitygirl's posting that Neil resisted the urge to place too many bottles in front of us, concentrating on quality. The standout pour was the Didier Dagueneau Silex 2003 Pouilly-Fume, as elegantly structured as my dining companion. Unfortunately the Rothschild was a little past its prime; it would have been interesting to compare the contents of the magnum to the jeroboam, which were siphoned into decanters. In my neighbourhood, that technique is more commonly used for gasoline. That's not to say it was unpleasant - far from it. But it didn't seem to impress that long finish that it's often known for. The poached salmon with pig's tails was my favourite dish of the evening: first amongst equals though. The miniature boudin blanc on lamb ragout was a fitting homage to Michel Jacob. Through the generosity of last nights' guests, and Rob Feenie and his partner, the evening raised $6,000 for the Chefs’ Table Society, however they gave up another $7,000 of potential revenue by including the seven younger chefs. And as Andrew reported earlier, Charlie Trotter capped the evening by drawing the name of Lucais Syme, (first cook at Adesso Bistro) from the hat. He’ll be rewarded with a two week stage, at Mr. Trotter’s expense, early next year, perhaps in that fallow period after Valentine’s Day, when, hopefully, Luciano can spare him. Anthony von Mandl invited Charlie to visit the Okanagan this summer. I'll keep you posted. After dinner, we retired to Feenie's for restorative tallboys of Czechoslovakian pilsner and Mexican post-prandials with the assembled chefs. On behalf of CTS, many thanks to the many customers, staff and volunteers who helped support this lovely evening; it was true credit to our little town.

As much as contemporary publishing is about providing stimulating and informative editorial to prevent the ads from bumping into each other, it is also very much about distribution. As Gary noted in his email to me, after seven years he had these logical distribution points taken away without notice. The explanations, such as they are, appear unsatisfactory. If you would like to express your opinion on this issue, you can let them know how you feel here (when the form comes up on your screen, click on "our stores"): BCLDB Communications Let's post their replies here too, or we can start a separate thread. PS: I sent my inquiry to them "Would you please tell me why EAT (Epicurean & Travel) Magazine is no longer available in your stores." at 10:45 am Saturday.

Maybe that's the point here....how can a government store carry one "legitimate publication" (despite what we may think of it's worth) and then not be obliged to carry whatever other publication comes along? Would "taxpayers" approve of one professional publication being given priority over another? ← Well, it turns out that Gary Hynes, the publisher of EAT, had more to say. Here's his full email to me: Hi Jamie, Thanks for getting in touch and thank-you for your encouraging words on egullet. Yes, the LDB has banned all local and free publications from all its stores (not just EAT but Cityfood, Boulevard, the Dining Guide and all others). They have also banned wine event posters and buskers. There is an exception to this edict, though. They have allowed a Prairie-based drinks magazine called Flavours to remain. One has to wonder why? Although the LDB denies having an interest in Flavours, there are rumours that the LDB is secretly supporting this out-of-province magazine. Should BC tax payers be supporting non/BC businesses instead of their own? EAT has been allowed to distribute through government liquor stores for the past seven years - always with the permission of the store managers, many of whom called me to request the magazine for their stores. This change was enacted without any prior consultation or notice and I know that many other publications were simply thrown into the recycling bin (fortunately no EATs were destroyed). I called the person in charge of this decision. He said the reason they were making changes were "the local stores managers have been making their own decisions for far too long and this has been stopped". and "We are a franchise and need to act like one. All our stores will have the same look and be controlled by head office." EAT Magazine has a strong distribution network in Victoria and Vancouver Island and is little affected there. In Vancouver we had been relying more on the government liquor stores for our distribution. I am working to build solid drop locations in the Vancouver area and as soon as I do I will post these locations on www.eatmagazine.ca Although we have over 100 pick-up locations in Vancouver many become sold out within a few days and don't get restocked until the end of the week. In the meantime, the Marquis Wine Cellar on Davie has an EAT stand and is very reliable. Other good locations are the Liberty wine stores, Taylorwood Wines and Urban Fare in Yaletown. The Kitsilano Wine Cellar, Choices, Gourmet Warehouse, Barbara-Jo's Books to Cooks, Cookworks on Broadway W. and Tools n Techniques in West Van. Subscriptions are also available and anyone having trouble finding a copy can email me at editor@eatmagazine.ca and I'll locate a copy for them. Thanks again, Jamie, Best regards, Gary

Here's an interesting curiousity: Robert Sulatycky, a very talented chef who graced The Five sails, Century Grill, Bacchus, Four Seasons Toronto and Chicago, and who is now the executive chef at The Beverly Hills Hotel, has launched two small batch wines. According to the following [edited] press release, you can give them a spin at Bacchus: "ROBERT SULATYCKY LAUNCHES HIS NEW WINE LABEL, ROBERT ALLEN, AT THE WEDGEWOOD HOTEL Vancouver, British Colombia – Robert Sulatycky, former executive chef of Bacchus at The Wedgewood Hotel will launch his new wine label, Robert Allen, at Bacchus. The Wedgewood Hotel will have an exclusive on Robert Allen Wines until January, 2006. Sulatycky, now executive chef at the renowned Beverly Hills Hotel, Beverly Hills CA, is pursuing his life long dream to make wine and helping him to achieve this is consulting wine maker, Sarah Gott, formerly of Joseph Phelps Vineyards and Quintessa. Bacchus will feature the first two releases of Robert Allen wines – The 2004 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc and the 2004 Lodi Zinfandel. Production of Robert Allen Wines is limited, with only 91 cases of the Sauvignon Blanc and 244 cases of the Zinfandel. The winery will also produce a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (of which the first vintage) is aging in barrels and will be released in the fall of 2006. Of the Sauvignon Blanc, Anthony Gismondi wrote in June 2005 “The first edition of his new wine venture – the Robert Allen Sauvignon Blanc – appears to be on the right track. It has a clean, aromatic nose with passion fruit, green melon, floral, grassy aromas and a touch of bell pepper. It’s fresh, round and crisp on entry, with a slightly oily texture and a hint of sweetness. Again passion fruit, grapefruit, melon and jalapeno flavors persistent. Fine styling and intensity – definitely made to enjoy with food.” Sulatycky has set out to craft high quality wines, and still very much a chef at heart, wines that are truly food friendly. This is a distinct offering of exceptional wines with a unique Vancouver connection."

Re: EAT distribution Here's part of a message from EAT publisher Gary Hynes. His magazine and others were unceremoniously dumped from government liquor stores without notice: "EAT Magazine has a strong distribution network in Victoria and Vancouver Island and is little affected there. In Vancouver we had been relying more on the government liquor stores for our distribution. I am working to build solid drop locations in the Vancouver area and as soon as I do I will post these locations on www.eatmagazine.ca Although we have over 100 pick-up locations in Vancouver many become sold out within a few days and don't get restocked until the end of the week. In the meantime, the Marquis Wine Cellar on Davie has an EAT stand and is very reliable. Other good locations are the Liberty Wine stores, Taylorwood Wines and Urban Fare in Yaletown. The Kitsilano Wine Cellar, Choices, Gourmet Warehouse, Barbara-Jo's Books to Cooks, Cookworks on Broadway and Tools n Techniques in West Van."

Abra, Many thanks, not just for the terrific food shots and cooking, but also for demonstrating how much the topography and climate of inland Washington differ from the coast. Sometimes it's difficult for folks who haven't visited the PNW to visualize that our inland sections are much more arid and that they are agricultural bonanza belts. I'm sure your pictures of Orcas Island will further demonstrate the contrasts. Looking forward to dinner . . . Your neighbour, Jamie

Citing criteria such as infrastructure, accomodation, public safety and, yes, restaurants, The Economist magazine has rated Vancouver as the top city in the world for business travellers. The survey, conducted by The Economist Intelligence Unit, drew up a list of the top 100 cities for business travel. Vancouver was closely followed by Calgary and Toronto. Paris placed 41st, New York City was rated 47th, and London 72nd. This report follows The Economist's survey that also placed Vancouver first as the World's Best Place to Live.

The Next Great Chef, a 10-part half hour competitive cooking series, debuts December 2nd on Global, pitting Laura Sharp of Diva at the Met against Ryan Stone of the Marriott Pinnacle. Produced by Vancouver-based and James Beard award winner Nick Versteeg, the show will stage a province-by-province rotation of black box competitions; the ten finalists will meet in a one hour grand finale scheduled for February 25th. The Knorr/Canadian Culinary Federation Junior Culinary Challenge has been taking place for years; this is the first time it has been broadcast. Judges include Bruno Marti of Ladner's La Belle Auberge.

i remember well the trifecta of budget but characterful dining on South Granville: The Aristocratic (now Chapters), The Normandy, and the inimitable Szasz's, now West.

Anticipatory congrats to the lottery winners; they represent a broad range of food service purveyors (restaurant, catering, baking) with some geopgraphic diversity as well. I'm going to ask them to make some notes and see how their experience compares with mine.

in case you want to reminisce Lauda Air

i am devastated by this news as will be many other senior citizens in the neighbourhood. I had planned one last hot lunch there next month--no more.

Ad homonym it is then, Dirk. And contrarily, I've seen Steven sit quite well -- sometimes for hours on end -- at the food board. Further, and just for the record, Steven, I come from the school of moral failing - where even a 4.0 is never quite good enough.

Steven, Indeed, like the best meals we've eaten, all arguments start from a place of motive and idea. I would make the case, however, that motive can be very relevant (like death and taxes) to argument, especially as to tenacity, force if not skill of presentation, and, of course, the filthy lucre of reward. If occasionally motive works against lucidity, those so motivated - especially those empowered by conflicted motive - may win the argument, at least in the court of received opinion, and even if they are not 'right'. Conversely, there's the fallacy of motive, which is a propensity to disbelieve anyone identified with an organization or cause when they espouse an argument, even if the facts presented are thoroughly researched and accurate. Arrayed opposite them will be other people and organizations who are not interested in whether or not their argument is necessarily true or right, but only that their voice is loudest. We see it every night at 6 o'clock. To wit: Politican A presents a thoroughly researched study (possibly compiled by a third party of veracity and reputation) that demonstrates, using Politician B's (see below) own government's data, that citizens are less well off than they were four years ago. Pol B, the incumbent, has his operatives/spinners dismiss Pol A, but not with a more convincing, better researched, 'right' or skillfully presented argument. Discounting the argument, they merely say that Pol A "was 'motivated' by political gain." Over and over. So in the case of this argument, 'motive' is trumped by motive. Oh, dear. For this reason, amongst others, I rarely dine with politicians anymore, much preferring the company of those who have knives and not axes to grind.

Bux, I think your summary is a fair assessment of a convoluted issue, specifically with regard to the fact that there are two classes of on-line citizen here: public and pseudonyminous. For those if us who should and do declare ourselfs publically, and who may have been subject to obviously conflicted flaming or even stalking, it is reassuring to know that vigilance has been increased to deal with it. Jamie

They've done quite a thorough ops review, Cayenne, polling and interviewing many guests. And thay have resently joined Ocean Wise. But perhaps they didn't dig quite deeply enough. I mentioned to Scott the outstanding BC spot prawns that I'd had at Nu the day before--he's looking into a consistent supply line. As for the bread, that's pretty easy in Vancouver these days: a great baguette works in a seafood/chop house, served, of course with those charmingly retro ice-cold pats of good butter. Limit 10 per customer.

Don't be going all LillyKate on us now, Neil. Some restaurant renovations lose intimacy when they're madeover. I often think of Lorenzo's, at Fouth and Dunbar, where we used to pile in for scampi and skillet steaks. It was steamy with wet wool and Chianti--and great fun. Then the owner tore it down, built a condo mid-rise and reinstalled his 'dream' restaurant. Whoops--the spark was gone and now he's leased it to a Greek also-ran.

There are some restaurant owners who handle criticism by writing letters to me or to the editor, spilling spleen and vitriol across the page. One went to the trouble of stalking us. The police went in at 8pm on a Friday night; being Greek, they dressed him down in front of his wife, the real decision-maker in the family. Others handle it with grumpy phone calls. But few will acknowledge that they’re at fault, or that something’s broken: if you want to see denial up close, find the closest scorned chef. Real professionals react though, and effect positive changes. Such was the case this past week with Joe Fortes and its proprietor, Bud Kanke, whom I’ve known for many years as he built his restaurant empire, and then sold many of the assets such as Mulvaney’s and The Cannery. Now he's concentrated on operations at Joe’s, one of the top grossing and most profitable restaurants in Canada, and has made his managers, Darren and Frenchy, his partners. Last week I reported on this thread (see above post no. TK) about a lamentable bowl of New England style clam chowder that I tried to eat there. On Thursday night though, I found myself back at the restaurant to judge—with Colleen Christie, John Bishop and Murray Bancroft—the annual Slurp and Swirl Oyster Shuck-Off. I entered the restaurant with a little trepidation, thinking that an oyster shiv might soon be visited upon my own bi-valves. Such was not the case. An affable Bud Kanke awaited me at the stroke of six, and, while not exactly thanking me (He said “I understand we were eGulleted this week"), said that the recipe had been revisited at a chef/management staff meeting and that improvements had already been made. Executive chef Scott Pratico escorted me into the kitchen and then ladled the new and improved version from a bain marie. Thickened with potato instead of flour, it carried the essence of the sea. Later, during the judging, and in addition to other courses, Chef made another point with a bowl of seafood chowder, Manhattan-style, that was even better. In fact it was outstanding—everyone at the table looked up after the first spoonful, and John Bishop and I agreed it was a superior bowl. Commendations to the Joe Fortes crew for reacting quickly and decisively. And thanks to you, winegeek, for getting the ball rolling.

At earlier Cornucopiae, Josh put on a seminar that matched wines with Big Macs. His famous book, Red Wine with Fish --due to a pitched battle with his co-author, David Rosengarten--was published in 1989 but, despite its ongoing popularity, remains out of print but is available through Amazon for about US$70 plus shipping. His immaculate ba-da-bing timing can be ascribed to the fact that his father was a Borscht Belt comedian. He remains one of the best dinner companions I know of. I note that our Whistler correspondents have gone silent. Apparently the Big Guns were not silenced.

I was shocked and appalled myself, Max. Clearly, what the world needs now is smaller sushi or weaker arms. J. ← LOL Brilliant. ← All in the name, so to speak, of sustainability.

I was shocked and appalled myself, Max. Clearly, what the world needs now is smaller sushi or weaker arms. That being said, I'm going to ask Arne to move this over to the EAT discussion thread. J.

Wow. As someone intimately familiar with the challenges of contemporary publishing, it's great to see hard work pay off. This whopping, 64-page issue of EAT thunked at our door like a brick. Tremendously diversified roster of contributors, including Murray Bancroft (simple but delicious Kobe beef recipe), Jane Mundy, Shelora (neat update on the Island), Julie Pegg, Don Genova and a host of others. But the best improvement might just be the addition of Carolyn Bateman, who is a superb copy editor. Increasingly, this publication makes a real contribution to the culinary fabric of the province, without attitude. Congratulations to Gary Hynes, his staff and contributors for a very informative read. Jamie

555-1212. What a delightful post, Mr. Q. Next month, I'm going to shoot some ducks in a barrel, write them up faster than a Surrey cop -- and call them bad confit.

Well done, OG. I judged at the Slurp and Swirl at Joe Fortes the other night. The winning times (with penalties) averaged just over two minutes for 18 oysters, but it's a sprint. Even if these mother shuckers could maintain that pace (say about 500 oysters per hour), which they can't, that's about 2,000 oysters in four hours. So your oyster triathalon looks pretty sharp to me. How are your hands? Upthread I made a point about the exposure of local restaurants to Cornucopia visitors and media other than at wine dinners. But I believe that there was a Slow Food luncheon today at The Westin (perhaps outside of the sanctioned events--I couldn't find it on the Tourism Whistler/Cornucopia website). Its intention, I believe, was to knit together local growers, restaurants and visitors--terrific. Any news on this event? And do you think local the local culinary scene and restaurants get the exposure they deserve? Jamie