I do wish Fat Guy would quote from his excellent and award-winning piece, "A Week in the Gramercy Tavern Kitchen". Seeing as how I have it here in the "Best Food Writing of 2002" collection, if I may: "...I always wonder how much a restaurant can do to improve the cuisine for a VIP table. In the case of Gramercy Tavern, at least, the answer is: Not much...Perhaps the kitchen will send out half-portions of urchin between the appetizer or entree, or perhaps an extra dessert course. The actual preparation of the food, however, is unchanged". Apologies for off-topically mentioning GT, but the point feels germaine here.