cmling

Not that it's very important, but I think "Läckerli" is derived from "lecker" (tasty) and not from "lecken" (to lick), all the more as Läckerli are more for chewing than for licking. By the way, I like them a lot! Charley

Well, I did have a nice meal in Cologne, after all. "Börsenrestaurant Maître". It was close to my hotel, and the weather was truly horrible during my stay, so I didn't venture afar. I had a three-course _prix fixe_ for lunch: a pairing of sole with scallops, milk-fed veal with chanterelles (+ lots of vegetables, etc. - too many, actually) and a delectable port sauce, and a complicated dessert involving a Montélimar of nougat with fresh apricots and a rhubarb sorbet plus various other little things. Two amuse-bouches: an aspic of crustaceans in a herb sauce, and an impressive ball of deep-fried sweetbreads in a most delicate and creamy sauce. Pre-dessert, too! A sorbet with a strong aroma of basil that I enjoyed a lot. I think the price was EUR 47. I had a glass of NV Taittinger to begin with, then 4 glasses of acceptable wine to accompany the meal, coffee, and an Austrian "Alte Zwetschke" (it would be "Vieille Prune" in Alsatia - "Old Plum" just doesn't sound right) to finish with. This made the whole thing EUR 100 (including well-merited tip), which I consider fair. Very pleasant room, very attentive service. Not a Memorable Meal, but certainly a very nice one. Charley

I do assume that you can work out something with the restaurant. They really try to do everything they can for their guests. Black slacks and a blouse would be fine. It is not an exceedingly formal place. Note, however, that the restaurant is air-conditioned (not frigid, though), so you might want to take a sweater or something like that, too. I am almost certain you will have a nice evening. Charley

Every time I visited the Steirereck in the evening (over a period of some 25 years), they *did* have an à la carte menu. But as my last time is several months ago, it might be wise to check. (A phone call should do it?) But: I think the EUR 77 menu is a good deal. You won't end up spending much less if you have three courses à la carte. I consider the Steirereck entirely worthy of its 4 Gault-Millau toques, which makes the 77 EUR deal a bargain in my eyes; and the wine accompaniment also has a fair price, methinks. Charley

I intend to spend a few days there in two weeks or so, and would be happy for any tips you nice people might have. I am grateful for suggestions in all price ranges. (I won't have a car, so the restaurants should either be in the city or easily accessible by public transport.) Thank you! Charley

Vienna calling. I fear this is truly scant information, but I think what you are looking for is: www.culinarium.at The English pages of the website are entirely uninformative (if you indeed manage to find them). All I can say is that it is located right in the middle of town and that I have never been there, nor know anyone who has. We probably still do not forgive the proprietors for having taken over one of Vienna's finest delicatessen shops and created this hybrid. I remember that reviews after it opened (quite a while ago) were not favourable. All of this may, of course, have changed for the better. I might have a look myself soon, and would report my findings, naturally. Charley

I am very glad to hear that you were happy at "Le Ciel". And *I* really must try "Beim Czaak" now! Charley

Isn't this *amazing* value for money? Where could this be duplicated? Thank you for a very interesting and informative report. Greetings, Charley

Why leave the Grand Hotel at all? Their restaurant "Le Ciel" has a private dining room that should be just right for about 20 people (if memory serves), the cuisine is reliably excellent, and I think you can stay within your budget unless the Euro keeps on climbing. I have eaten there many, many times and have never been disappointed; sometimes even very happily surprised. Here's a link: http://www.grandhotelwien.com/en/leciel.htm Hoping you have a very nice trip, Charley

I agree about the eggs, but am not so sure about the french fries, as these are - in my experience at least - often salted in the kitchen before they are served. But I really meant *serious* dishes at excellent restaurants... Sorry for not being clear. Charley

People who put salt on their food before they have even tasted it.

Heurigen... that would require a separate thread, I think. One thing I would like to state, however: many (perhaps most) Viennese avoid Grinzing like the plague and leave it to the tour buses. (They go to Heurigen in other outskirts of the city.) One more thing: I cannot recommend Niki's Kuchlmeisterei unless it has improved hugely over the past year or so. Undistinguished food, erratic wine list (almost entirely overpriced, however; consistency is demonstrated there, at least). Pleasant, albeit slightly corny atmosphere, though. If I were forced to rank Vienna's restaurants, it might make 40th place or so. Unfortunate, as I live more or less around the corner from it. Charley

Just a minor point: 1 quart is far less than 1500 ml. Charley

I just see that you are in Vienna for four nights (should have noticed that earlier, sorry). That leads me to imagine you might like a second memorable meal. My number-two suggestion would then be Mraz & Sohn. It is situated where one would not expect a very fine restaurant (the Steirereck is also not quite central, by the way), but it is quite superb in many respects. Highly inventive cooking that generally works, excellent wine pairings available for all courses, cheeses in great profusion and perfect condition. They are no longer cheap, alas, but still excellent value for money. Charley (available for any additional information, if wanted)

The "Charley" quoted on the Fodor's site is me. I have not changed my opinion since then. Charley

This is a very belated reply, but it might interest latecomers. It is my considered opinion that the best restaurant in Vienna (perhaps in all of Austria) is the "Steirereck". I live in Vienna and spend far too much money on food, so you can trust me a little bit!

I have had some memorable meals at Christophe in Amsterdam. I can recommend it heartily. The cuisine is not Dutch, however; like the chef-proprietor, it comes from the South-West of France.