Mayhaw Man

Can you cite a piece that was even moderately critical of New Orleans that you like? To answer that question literally, I can easily say, "yes." This place is a trainwreck. New Orleans as a functioning municipality was pretty much on the skids before the storm and after, well, it's a very, very well documented train wreck. Schools are bad, our mayor is missing in action most of the time, there are few places for middle and lower income folks to rent, daily life is a grind that's really, really hard to explain to anyone who is not living it and the various programs meant to help bring us back to life are pretty much predictably snafu. There have been lots and lots and lots of things written about New Orleans that were completely negative that I agreed completely with. We're not stupid, you know. We know what this place is and in many cases we actually have some idea how to fix the problems (though clearly we are going to need big bags of money to get the work done) that exist here. We also know that we are very, very happy to be here and regardless of the problems-we're generally really happy to be here. People don't leave here easily. Somewhere out there someone is reading this whose significant other is from New Orleans and they know that at some point they are probably going to have to go home if they want to stay with their partner. It's just how it is. We don't leave easily and when we do, well, we just want to go back home. It's hard to explain (everytime I try I end up rambling-just like this time ). Being realistically critical, when basing it on well formed, well researched opinion is always valid and in our case, needed and generally welcomed. Really. We want to get all of this fixed. Right now. Today. This is NOT fun. On the other hand, if you are referring to pieces that are moderately critical of the food culture here...not so much (meaning that I can't cite many of them-not that I do or don't like them). Most of the people who have come here after the storm to write about food and food culture (and by extension, the tourist related industries) already had or immediately cultivated and developed at least a passing idea of what we are all about (Kim Severson, for her part, had never been here until after the storm-I was a witness to her first bead catches-trust me, she can mix it up with the best of them out on The Avenue during a parade) and also seem to have had some idea that we are doing the best we can with what we have to work with. New Orleans is, in a very real way, one of the most difficult and complicated places to live in the first world right now. Things don't work. People don't work. It's tiring and though it can be very subtle, or not, there is a creeping depression that haunts everyone of us (unless you are just incredibly well adjusted or completely out of touch with reality-I am neither of those and most folks aren't either). The people who have covered the various offshoots of the story since Aug 29, 2005 seem to have, for the most part, taken the time to appreciate what we had, what we have, and what all of us, to some degree or another, are trying to put together for the future. Mr Richman, on the other hand, came here with an agenda. I, and many other people that I know, knew that he was here and even before he left we knew that he was up to something. Several of his dining partners (to be unnamed here because they wish to remain that way) recounted that he was basically a morose, grouchy, prick while he was here and pretty much told people that they, "might not like what he was going to say." Well, fine, thought all of us. Frankly, I can go lots of places in this town that are "famous" and do that as well as he can (I think that Mother's, for example, does and always will suck wind-it's a tourist trap with bad food-nothing more-but that's my opinion) . It's food. What you and I like might not be what other's like. On the other hand, to criticize something that really is what it is supposed to be just because it's not the way that you expected it or the way that you like it is really a rediculous way to go into a criticism (i.e. trout almondine mueniere at Galatoire's-it's a sublimely delicious dish, imo, but the important part is that they have been making it that way for over 100 years-it's not wrong-it's just Galatoire's way). Still, fine, he didn't like the food, he got the wrong vintage on his wine (we had about a zillion bottles that had their labels floated off in the flood, butthead. Next time, we'll let you have some fun identifying the mystery wine), and generally he's a crusty old crank with a bone to pick about New Orleans food. Good for him-slash away. The issue that I have taken, that Kim Severson took, that Brett Anderson and many others took is that there was, apparently, little research done on the part of Mr Richman and he came in with a chip on his shoulder and managed to make that chip into one about the size of a cypress stump by the time that he left. If he was here to talk about restaurants (the food, the business, whatever) he should have left it at that. The problem is that he took it upon himself to become some kind of cultural critic way, way beyond the food realm. One of the lines that pissed me and alot of others off the most was that crack about New Orleanians and exercise-what the hell does that have to do with anything? Lots of people here don't drink a lick and lots of those that do, most in fact, don't drink to excess. Sure, we KNOW how to have fun when we turn ourselves loose. We get it. People come here to BE LIKE US to some degree or another-though I dare say that most of those that tourists see in the Quarter with a "Big Ass Beer" and a girlfriend ripping up her top are most likely just like themselves-tourists. A quick trip Uptown during the parade season to catch beads with the locals will yield a dissapointing result for the "show me" set. It's way more about family and friends up there than it is teenagers from Des Moines with no shirts and even less brains (ok, ok, it wasn't your daughter from Des Moines-it was someone else's so don't get into a tizz. She may well have been from Birmingham or Decatur-but really, it wasn't your daughter). Richman is an astute, acerbic and thought provoking writer and critic. (this is a guy who couldn't find any decent pizza in Naples!) Mr. Richman is, indeed, a talented writer and I have enjoyed his work in the past. I now realize that some of the things that I have enjoyed about his work may indeed be flaws that perhaps I should have noticed on the first pass. How much of his work is based on honest, well researched opinion and how much of it is, as in his New Orleans piece, completely opinionated, poorly researched garbage? I'm kind of leaning towards believing the latter at this point. Being able to string together words is a talent. Clearly he has that talent. Whether those words, when reconsidered, hold as much weight is something for someone with more time or interest than I have. It's likely that I will run into the guy somewhere, but it damned sure won't be here. He's not coming back. What we did 200 years ago to General Pakenham and his lads would seem tame to what might happen to Mr Richman were he to be recognized here. Surely being forced into the backroom at August would be the least of his worries. Then again, you know what would REALLY happen if he came back? Most likely many of us would do our very best to try, as hard as we might be able to, to explain what this place and it's bizarrely alluring culture is all about. We're like that. People in New Orleans don't know any strangers. I believe that if there was some way to do a survey of visitors here who ended up going to parties or gatherings or events or funerals (how many other places on Earth do people get invited to a funeral-hell, it's even fun to DIE here) just because some local that they met invited them, that the number would easily be higher than it would be anywhere else in North America. We, all of us, do it all of the time. You meet someone at a parade, on the streetcar, maybe it's a friend of a friend, and all of a sudden they find themselves in your backyard at a seafood boil, or going to some out of the way place to eat (honestly, how many tourists, on their own, really ever go to places like Willie Mae's by their own selves?) and with some folks who just might be their new best friends. We all do that. Those of us who live here, even now, know what it's a big part of what makes this place special and we are happy, crazy happy, to show others. Do they always get it? Oh boy. No. Trust me, I have taken folks places where, sometime during whatever it was, you can just look at them and see that, "these people are out of their minds and I don't want any part of this-not now, not ever" look. What do I do at that point? Well, it depends on how much fun the thing is, but, generally, we'll take them somewhere else. There are always options here. Lots of options. That's why people love to come here and that's why people defend it so vehemently. We like it here. We're not like you. Sometimes that works against us, sometimes it works for us, but whatever it does, most people seem to like it. I pretty much subscribe to GQ because of Richman. It takes all kinds . I subscribe to stay up on all of the latest news about Pam and Kid Rock. Also, I find lots of helpful grooming tips, as I am all about looking clean and shiny. Then again, sometimes GQ is worth reading. This is a very good, well researched piece. I suspect that Chris Heath must have had a few more days, a few more run ins with locals, and a bit more of an open mind (and damned sure more compassion for his subjects) than the astute, acerbic and thought provoking writer and critic Mr Richman did. Maybe next time, if there is one, he'll lighten up and just let the place happen to him...

That is simply because Kim is thoughtful and way-better-than-decent. She gets it. She's made the effort when she is here to go way, way beyond just getting a few interviews and going back home and writing them up. Lots of people have written lots of things about New Orleans since the storm, both good and bad, but her pieces, along with the one Corby Kummer wrote early this year in The Atlantic, are total standouts in my mind.

Sam is certainly an incredibly talented guy, and there were some others that were worthy of inclusion (Pizza Port in Southern CA for one group) but there were some space limitations that I couldn't overcome. Also, I was trying to cover some geography, as well. Much was left on the cutting room floor. Next time, I hope...

Nah, crowbar and a good set of lock picks. You can get in almost anywhere with those things.

I got in the same way that I got into Carnegie Hall...

Nine o'clock or so. I can promise you a pretty swell lunch. The catering has been pretty amazing-Besh and Folse know how to serve a mean bag lunch, trust me. Even that pompous twit Alan Richman might enjoy it (of course, he would complain that there were signs of poor people who should really get busy cleaning things up as the atmosphere was ruining his constitution).

If you happen to be in New Orleans Fri, Sat, or Sun we would really like to encourage you to come by and give us a hand as we get the final push done of WMSH and Willie Mae Seaton's residence. We need strong backs and weak minds as we move in the kitchen equipment, paint the place, and do what needs to be done to get Willie Mae back in her house. It's been a long, very rewarding, very educational slog and everyone involved deserves a big round of applause. Willie Mae Seaton is a very happy woman right now. She's old and while it's been a bad year and a half for everyone, it has been particularly trying for our older citizens who, at least in many cases, were displaced from the places where the happily assumed that they would spend the rest of their lives. It's nice knowing that at least one of them is going to be back home where she belongs. It's also nice knowing that, sometime next month, fried chicken, white beans, greens, and all of the rest will be ready once again on St Ann St. Small steps. Very small, very satisfying steps. That's all we've got down here. It's a long march...

Elizabeth's is open and has been for a while-they've even opened up the upstairs for your dining and billiard playing pleasure. I'm glad that you liked the bread pudding. It's a good one. Those "Creole Faeries" can really cook.

I was down in Plaquemine Parish on Sunday working on a story (soon to be published in a paper that you can buy in your town) and the crop, at least around Belle Chasse and Happy Jack is looking good. I bought navels, satsumas, tangerines, and a few grapefruits (they're the best in the world, but it's a bit early for them, so there were only a few available). I'll post some pictures tonight. All is not lost. Really. It will just take a while for things to get back to normal. According to the folks that I talked to, getting the fruit picked is harder than growing it. Why would you pick fruit for 7 bucks an hour when you can make two or three times that doing reconstruction labor? Those people down there (humorously, many of them named Becnel-there are a gillion fruit growing Becnels all related in one way or another) are farmers with paid for land. Many of them also are involved in other businesses in the parish, but the one business that they love and understand is the fruit trade. They're not going anywhere-not anytime soon anyway. For those of you coming to New Orleans in the next few months, the ones of you that have a car available, I highly reccomend a drive over there. It's an easy, scenic trip and not a bad way to see what happened here. As you are driving down, try to imagine your car under 16-20 feet of water. In many places, the storm surge was that high. Just the simple fact that they are back and have ANYTHING to sell is a testament to their determination and grit. Buy something from them. Right now, aside from the citrus, there are stupendous tomatoes, eggplants, greens of all sorts, squash, bell peppers and all kinds of other produce. It's all delicious-as good as you will ever buy-and when you buy you will know that you are supporting some folks who really, really care about what they do and know, innately, that it's an important part of who we are here in the lost Republic. At the end of that row of oranges you will see the levee that holds back the Mississippi River. Had I turned around and taken a photo in the opposite direction, you would have seen an marsh that is, at this point, part of the Gulf of Mexico. The strip of land that these fruits are growing on is less than a mile wide and runs, generally, down the West side of the river from New Orleans to the mouth of the river-though the road only goes as far as Venice.

New Orleans is a small, bedraggled country just South of the Mississippi border of the United States. Bedraggledness (and what that scum Alan Richman says) aside, I would highly recommend it for anyone seeking inexpensive, easily available, and well prepared seafood.

Actually, I disagree with Todd. While the podcast shows Richman to be the asshat that he is, on the other hand, the written version is something to be savored and loathed. The guy had an axe to grind and for some reason he chose New Orleans as his stone. It's a ridiculously irresponsible, poorly executed piece of writing. Happily, as I refused to buy that rag (I, thank you very much, am already more than happy with my hair gel, my stylish clothing, and my man makeup and need no help from the advisors at GQ), I found a copy on a chair at the airport- no doubt left there by some other already well dressed man in no immediate need of fashion or dining advice. The geek actually had the audacity to question the actual existence of the creole folk, while in the same breath discussing Leah Chase (who is, by any definition that you care to employ, as creole as they come). Trust me, I love Mrs. Chase, and I believe that she is many things (all good) but, at least I'm pretty sure, that she's no faerie. I honestly can't believe that they printed the thing. It's that bad.

I have found this maker to be the perfect combination. It has the convenience of an electric drip machine, but is, in fact, a melitta drip style brewer. I love the thing. In fact, I like it so much that it is now in three different places I regularly stay. http://www.digitalkitchenstore.com/me5b.html It's crazy cheap, works like a champ, takes melitta #2 filters, and makes great coffee.

The sausage thing seems to be hit and miss-always-storm or no storm. I had dinner there a few weeks ago with someone who ordered it and when they said no, he pointed out that they were out every time that he came. It's really good when they have it, though. Really good.

For those of you in the NY area that are interested, I'm sure that you can find out more about this event. Also, I just sent my twin Scott Barton (it's not so far from true, though our skin color and hair differ greatly-I'm a pasty white guy and my hair has all fallen out) to get him to give me an update on this thing. The reason that I include most of the press release is not to promote the event, but to put the list of chefs below into context. One of the best meals that I have ever had in NY was at Scott's house on 125th St out on his little roof balcony thing among the vegetables and flowers. Anyway, it's a good list of "chefs of color" though, frankly, I prefer to just think of them as chefs. (New York, NY, October 5, 2006) – EBONY Magazine is proud to present the Taste of EBONY, a culinary extravaganza featuring: the leading Black chefs from across the globe, New York’s finest Black restaurants, and other Black food industry experts from around the country. Star chef Marcus Samuelsson, owner of Aquavit Restaurant in Manhattan, will serve as chairperson and culinary advisor of the premier event taking place at an exclusive Manhattan location, Monday, October 23, 2006. The Taste of EBONY celebrates the unheralded history of the contributions Blacks have made to the world of culinary arts. It further serves as a catalyst for people of color, particularly a younger generation, to view the many facets of the food industry as a viable path toward pursuing prodigious careers. “EBONY is excited to partner with Anheuser-Busch in providing this much-needed showcase and to take the lead in introducing these tremendous talents within the food, wine and restaurant industries to the palates of our community,” said Linda Johnson Rice, President and CEO of Johnson Publishing Company. “The Taste of EBONY is a beautiful celebration of food and wine presented by people of color,” says Chef Marcus Samuelsson. “EBONY’s efforts must be applauded for putting together an event that recognizes those who are established while giving a voice for the future to those who are emerging in the food industry.” -- more -- Page 2/3 Taste of EBONY Hosted by the award-winning anchor, Maurice DuBois, co-anchor of “CBS 2 News This Morning,” the evening will commence with a special tribute to Chef Leah Chase, the 83-year-old doyenne of Black chefs around the world whose 65-year-old landmark establishment, Dookey Chase Restaurant in New Orleans, suffered severe damage from Hurricane Katrina. A presentation will also be made to C-CAP [Careers through Culinary Arts Program], the noted organization that provides career opportunities in the foodservice industry for underserved youth through culinary arts education and employment. The featured participants of the Taste of EBONY include: Executive Chef Carl Lovett, Anheuser Busch, St. Louis, MO; Chef Marcus Samuelsson, Owner - Aquavit, NYC; Executive Pastry Chef Erika Davis, Beau Rivage Resort & Casino, Biloxi, MS; Executive Chef Keith Williams, BG Restaurant (Bergdorf Goodman), NYC; Wine Director Brian Duncan, BIN 36 Restaurant/bin 36 wine café, Chicago, IL; Executive Chef Jeffrey Henderson, Café Bellagio, Las Vegas, NV; Margo T. Lewis, Cake Designer, Cake Bliss, NYC; Chef Sterling Burpee, Chief Culinary Officer, Culinary Training Academy, Las Vegas, NV; Charlotte Lyons, Food Editor, EBONY Magazine, Chicago, IL; Karen Holmes Ward, Divas Uncorked, Milton, MA; Shawn D. Farnum, Owner, Farnum’s Finest; Peter Morales, President & CEO, 57 Main Street Imports; Joel Michel, Owner – 5 Ninth, NYC; Michelle Jean, Owner – Ginger Restaurant, NYC; Scott A. Barton, Executive Chef & Culinary Consultant, Gravy LLC; Chef Marvin Woods, Host “Home Plate,” – Turner South Television/Partner, Spice Restaurant, Atlanta; Executive Chef Francois Kwaku-Dongo, l’escale, Greenwich, CT; Executive Chef Arlene Weston, Owner – Maroon’s, NYC; Melba Wilson, Owner – Melba, NYC; Norma Jean Darden, Owner – Miss Mamie’s Spoonbread Too, NYC; Sheron Barnes, Co-Owner – MoBay NY/Baton Rouge, NYC; Executive Pastry Chef Alfred Stephens, Olives NY, NYC; Executive Chef Robert Gadsby, 676 Restaurant & Bar, Chicago, IL and Noé Restaurant & Bar, CA and TX; Chef Sylvia Woods, Owner – Sylvia’s, NYC; Executive Chef Christopher Faulkner, The River Room,NYC; Chef G. Garvin, Host, Turn Up The Heat with G. Garvin, TV One, Los Angeles; Mac & Lil McDonald, Owner – Vision Cellar [Winery], Windsor, CA; Wandie Ndala, Owner - Wandie’s Place, Johannesburg, South Africa. The Taste of EBONY is sponsored by: Anheuser-Busch Inc., American Airlines, American Express, Marriott Hotels and Resorts, TV One, South African Airlines, and Hershey.

When I was living in Ireland (Enfield, County Meath) one of the most interesting phenomenons that I came across was Budweiser (brewed in Ireland under contract-but supervised by AB guys from St Louis at all times-as they do in the rest of the world) being poured with alagal (beer gas). It had this bizarre (and frankly pleasing) creaminess to it and was really quite refreshing. The head, though not a Guinness or a Murphy's (my favorite stout over there-they ask for a "pint of soup" when calling for it at the bar), was demonstrably thicker and richer than a Bud out of a bottle (even that same Bud, which was packaged in bottles, as well. I believe that the pouring situation with this had more to do with the equipment at hand rather than some kind of preference. The pubs, generally, already had the systems (usually supplied by the brewery that the house was aligned with) and so it just made sense to adjust the original carbonation in the Bud for draft to suit the pouring systems. Another one that I quite liked that was poured with nitro/co2 was Caffery's from Belfast. Though hard to find in the South, it was very, very good. A bitter with a kind of creamy, toffee background-though not overly sweet.

My, umm, friend, who used to do alot of distillation at night, in his barn, with the lights turned down low, and someone watching the road for revenooers, filtered straight out of the still through a commercial charcoal water filter (distillate was run through the worm into a container which was then pressured up with nitrogen-this provided the pressure to run through the filter-gravity worked, but took too long for the impatient (and not to mention temporarily sober and thirsty) stillmen. The difference between the filtered and the unfiltered product was pretty incredible. On the other hand, once the first pass was made through the filter, the product did not seem to improve with subsequent filterings-quite the opposite, actually, as it seemed as if the flavor was being stripped (these were primarily rums made from molasses and fruit brandies) with each pass. My, umm, friend, finally stopped anything but the first filtration as it seemed to do the trick. He and his liver have since retired from the trade.

Both of them will be happy to do it. Really. Both places use fresh fish (meaning that the fish has not been "pre-seasoned" making it difficult for you to have anything made to order) and can easily accomodate your FIL. That's a long haul. The Charlotte to BR leg is particularly brutal, in terms of time. Good luck.

Though I am filled with misgivings about helping anyone who is involved in serving fondant, it occurred to me that fondant is much like caulk (I won't get started, but I believe that it's more like caulk than just consistency ) and some of the same tools that are used in caulking might be useful in this project of yours. Also, I love adapting industrial hardware for kitchen use. I would think that a few refillable caulking tubes (google on refillable caulking tubes or refillable caulking guns and you come up with many choices) and a cheap caulking gun would do the job for you. The tips, with a bit of fiddling, could even be shaped to give you some redimentary shaping to the rope. The tubes come in a couple of sized so you could make ropes as long as you wanted and they are plastic, so, generally, should be pretty easy to clean. Anyway, the whole thing would be under $20 and it's hard to go wrong at that price. And if you really wanted to save some time you could just buy some caulk and, well, nevermind.....

Yes. You should. Absolutely. It's good. The old stuff is as good, and the new stuff is really better, than it's been in a very long time. Yes. Call them up. I bet you can get a rez, thought you might have to work with them a bit on times-they've been very busy.

I'm all about goat. In fact, the last two times that I have been in DC I purchased some at the Dupont Circle Sunday Farmer's Market. I can't remember who sells it, but the stuff is top quality. I am crazy for braised goat shoulder over rice. Es ta bien! I'm going to buy some more next weekend if the folks are still out there. I lived in Mexico for a couple of years and used to have a long drive up through the Valle Guadalupe to get to work. There was this guy who had a cart that was set up in front of what was, basically, the only store on that stretch of highway. He only sold birria and he only sold it in the morning until he ran out. The stuff was rich, thick, steamy and delicious. Over the course of my time there, I must have eaten gallons of the stuff. It's funny, given the lonliness of that highway between Tecate and Ensenada, I never quite figured out who bought that pot (it was a pretty good sized stock pot) out everyday, but he was never out there past about 10 in the morning. For all I know, he might still be out there every morning. I hope that I can go check on him soon. I love that little part of the world.

beans and rice are not starch on starch - they are the protein staples in a vegetarian diet; ← "What's in a name? That which we call arroz. By any other word would smell as sweet."

You also might consider contacting Jessica Harris or Joyce White-Ms. Harris being the best of these two considering that her academic background is heavily vested in Afro-Carib traditions in the Americas. Send me a pm and I can send you her contact info. A little by Jessica Harris on your exact subject

I believe that you will not only want to look in Louisiana, but also in the Low Country in the Carolinas. My understanding has always been that they "starch on starch" thing came by way of slaves coming from the sugar cane plantations in the Caribbean into the Carolinas and New Orleans-hence the popularity of red beans and rice on the Gulf coast and Hoppin John in the Carolinas (though neither, certainly, is limited to just those geographic regions). I am working on a piece on Hoppin John right now for a publication and I just ran across something confirming this the other night-I'll see if I can find it again for you. Hoppin John History 1 Hoppin John 2 Hoppin John 3 I assume, and have always assumed, that red beans and rice came as a derivative of this dish. I don't think that theory is far off of the mark. Good luck with your thesis. Don't mumble and wear a clean shirt. You'll do fine.

Really great post on the Gumbo Pages giving a pretty detailed description of friends and family night last Saturday. I'm going for lunch on Friday and dinner on Sunday and I am greatly looking forward to it.

I don't see any reason at all that you need to tell everyone about it. I happen to like fat. Like you were planning on making some soap or something. Sheesh. ← Everybody in the kitchen staff and a few of the other diners had a good laugh thanks to him. We all like maybe a little fat with our meat, not the other way around. ← It takes all kinds. I kinda look at meat as a conveniently designed vehicle for the delicious fat portions. Of course, this won't be so funny when you guys are reading my obit and it says that he kicked off due to horribly clogged arteries.