Lyons/Northern Rhone

[balex]

I had the good fortune to eat several times at Mionnay, the last time only two weeks before he died, and perhaps there is an element of sentimentality in saying this, but I still regard the meals I had there as among the greatest I have ever had. One of the things that struck me was that his food was both thoroughly traditional in one sense, and yet quite innovative. And with a few exceptions the innovations were extremely succesful. A particular dish I still rememeber was a salad of lobster, truffle (so far traditional) with little strips of meat from pigeon necks! These little strips of meat were such a perfect complement in flavour, texture and colour. Yet still the aesthetic was rooted in the traditions of Lyonnais cooking or gourmandise.

One topic we discuss frequently here is the relation between innovation and tradition -- two extremes one could represent by Adria and perhaps Pacaud. What are your personal views? How central is creativity to your idea of being a chef? Can one be a great chef while innovating only in a narrow range?

[guygateau]

Thank you for taking the time to be with me today.

I only know Adria by what I was able to read or hear about him. He appears to be for me, more like an artist who is taking food to carve, to melt, to "defragment" "destructure" almost in a mystical calling to destroy it ,in order to rebuild it...better. It is an artistic approach.

I was trained a long time ago. What was important at that time was the satisfaction of the client, and the respect of what we cooked. Do everything with respect. Cooking a partridge, roasting a suckling pig was our goal, but before you could put your hands on such products, you had to demonstrate your character and prove that you could be trusted. This was, I suppose, the necessary learning process to appreciate our legacy, our culinary heritage. This is the way we were trained.

Then, thank to the nouvelle cuisine mouvement of the 70's 80's, we learned that we could be creative again. Some of us did anything and everything. But it was a blessing, the rigidity of the old school was coming to an end because if a chef isn't creating he consumes himself and cannot regenerate.

As a chef I have always been very "traditional" because of my training, curious by nature and creative by love of cooking.

So, I would say, YES, one can be a great chef, even innovating only in a narrow range. (But again, conditions need to be explained in more detail) There are after all so many ways to be creative, but always in respect of the tradition. It makes it harder!

[robert brown]

One of the mysteries around here is why so few people went to Mionnay before Chapel left us. I only know of Balex (which I wasn't aware of), vmilor and Jellybean. Anyone else? When Guy was Chapel's #1 in the kitchen, the brigade was turning out many regional classics. In fact the first main course I had was a Poulet au Vinaigre. Even the Gateau de Foie Blond was, as Guy told me, a 19th-century creation. Toward the end there were sensational contemporary dishes such as the Bouillon de Champignons comme un Cappuccino which chefs everywhere reproduced; or the amazing Petite Tripiere de ris de veau et d'agneau.

Whatever, I love the photograph by Anthony Blake that Guy found and can be seen with Guy's article in the Daily Gullet. Maybe my head has been twisted, but I find the portrait of the brigade catching the spirit of the place in the mid-1970s; romantic, unpretentious, and even a little rough around the edges. It had to have been hard work, however.

[balex]

One of the mysteries around here is why so few people went to Mionnay before Chapel left us. I only know of Balex (which I wasn't aware of), vmilor and Jellybean. Anyone else? When Guy was Chapel's #1 in the kitchen, the brigade was turning out many regional classics. In fact the first main course I had was a Poulet au Vinaigre. Even the Gateau de Foie Blond was, as Guy told me, a 19th-century creation.

The poulet de Bresse en vessie avec sa sauce legere de foie gras is a good example of a very classic dish, but done with a slight twist that really elevated it to greatness. The sign of a great cook -- you can close your eyes and nearly twenty years later you can remember the taste of the dish and the room like yesterday, no like 5 minutes ago.

[coquille]

Am planning to be in the Lyon/Northern Rhone region for about 5 days at the end of the summer. I don't need to stay in Lyon, but I would plan on visiting. I would love suggestions for:

-any charming accommodations that won't break the bank

-places to eat - all price ranges

-special vineyards to visit

-not-to-miss sites

-any other tips/suggestions?

Will have a car, so I'm looking for info from Lyon to Valence. Thank you so much!!!

[TarteTatin]

We stayed about 20 minutes south of Lyon in a Relais du Silence in Condrieu. Very pretty place right on the river. Tres calme. Wasn't too thrilled with the restaurant there. Not bad, I just think we'd had one too many big meals at that point....I believe the Hotel was very reasonable.

Chateau Grillet, in Condrieu, you should of course, visit...When we were there they were doing some construction, so we couldn't taste the wine. Not sure if they are open to the public or not. But their Viognier is the finest wine in the world, in my opinion. And, I think its still the smallest appellation in the world? (Someone correct me if I'm wrong?)

Are you planning on going south a bit to Tain L'hermitage? There's a few places there we stayed and ate that were good....Oh, you have to visit the famous Chocolate factory there, Valronah! Delicious. As a matter of fact, the Terroir there for the wine, tastes to me faintly like the Chocolate that runs through the village. The Tain L'hermitage wine co-op is an interesting place to go for multiple tasting under one roof. And there's the other famous Rhone place in Tain that has tastings. Gosh, what's the name of the place? Delicious.

I'll check my notes and get back to you with names and recommendations...

Gorgeous place, I'm so jealous!

[BigboyDan]

Be sure to visit Alain Chapel in Mionnay (just north of Lyon), I worked there in 1979. The restaurant was once a three-star, now two after Chapel's death; Jousse, has been the chef there since. The inn has several beautiful guestrooms, and the whole atmosphere of the place is just wonderful in the Summer. http://www.alainchapel.fr/

[bleudauvergne]

Doing an advanced search on Keyword "Lyon" with the tool available in the first line at the very top of the page (above the blue bar containing the egullet Logo) will give you a whole lot of information.

BCinBC provided us with a very nice trip report quite recently Here which is something you worth a look.

Some reccomendations for Bouchons can be found Here.

Have a great trip!

[Peter H]

Chateau Grillet, in Condrieu, you should of course, visit...When we were there they were doing some construction, so we couldn't taste the wine. Not sure if they are open to the public or not. But their Viognier is the finest wine in the world, in my opinion. And, I think its still the smallest appellation in the world? (Someone correct me if I'm wrong?)

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I can't find the exact size of Ch Grillet, but I think that Romanée-Conti may be smaller at 1.8 hectares - don't know if that's the smallest though!

[boris]

Chateau Grillet, in Condrieu, you should of course, visit...When we were there they were doing some construction, so we couldn't taste the wine. Not sure if they are open to the public or not. But their Viognier is the finest wine in the world, in my opinion. And, I think its still the smallest appellation in the world? (Someone correct me if I'm wrong?)

←

I can't find the exact size of Ch Grillet, but I think that Romanée-Conti may be smaller at 1.8 hectares - don't know if that's the smallest though!

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Romanée-Conti is not an appellation. Vosne Romanee is the appellation. Re: the other place in Tain-Hermitage - are you referring to Chapoutier?

Cheers!

Mark

[TarteTatin]

Yes, Chapoutier! Very good tasting room!

Coquilles, I received your email. I hope I have time to find my records before you leave at the end of the summer!

Can you remind me (personally) next week?

[Martin H]

Oh yes, Chapoutier has an excellent tasting room in Tain. I bought a '93 Hermitage there - as it was the only one in my price bracket! I asked the man there if 93 was a bad year and he said "no, no - it was a difficult year though".

If you get down that way though, I could recommend Michel Chabran in Pont de l'Isere. It's not the most charming town and the hotel rooms were a bit small and in need of redecoration when I went (about 6 or 7 years ago), but the welcome was very warm and friendly and the restaurant was really excellent.

He lost his second star a few years back now, so I can't vouch for the cooking these days but back then it was pretty good - I remember having the "assiette de chocolat Valrhona", which was very memorable.

[ameiden]

Chateau Grillet, in Condrieu, you should of course, visit...When we were there they were doing some construction, so we couldn't taste the wine. Not sure if they are open to the public or not. But their Viognier is the finest wine in the world, in my opinion. And, I think its still the smallest appellation in the world? (Someone correct me if I'm wrong?)

←

I can't find the exact size of Ch Grillet, but I think that Romanée-Conti may be smaller at 1.8 hectares - don't know if that's the smallest though!

←

Château Grillet has got 4 ha and is the second smallest appellation after La Romanée. It is however the only property in France to have its own AC.

As a fan of Fernand Point (Grillet was his favourite wine apart from Champagne), I am particularly interested in the history of this property. One has to be aware that, throughout the vintages, Grillet has not consistently come from one vineyard. The property has been in the hands of the Neyret-Gachet family since 1840 and was granted the appellation in 1936, then covering 3 ha. When André Baratin-Canet took over in 1961, it was a mere 1.7 ha! He bought an extra hectare of vines and even replanted elsewhere.

Therefore, today's Grillet might be slightly different to what the guests of "La Pyramide" drank up to Fernand Point's death in 1955. (Although the wine making methods will probably not have changed that much.)