Martin H

Many thanks for the excellent write-ups of the two restaurants in Tournus - they brought back some great memories for me. I had the good fortune to dine at Greuze in the early-mid 1990s when Jean Ducloux was still at the helm - it was a really memorable experience needless to say. He was a very imposing, even formidable presence but was very warm and generous as he thanked us at the end of our meal. I vividly remember having two of his "signature dishes" (for want of a better term): Pate en Croute "Alexandre Dumaine" and Quenelles de Brochet, sauce Nantua. It was quintessentially classic cooking, with large portions and extremely simple, unfussy presentation (probably unacceptable in today's high-end restaurants) but the quality of ingredients were exquisite and the technique faultless. I'm really glad to hear the restaurant has been rescued from ruin, and I see the chef has retained a few Greuze classics on the menu, but it's sad that Ducloux's style of cooking seems to be really a thing of the past now... the gastronomic world is poorer for it and I'm just glad I had a chance to experience it when I still could. I also visited Aux Terrasses around the same time, when it was "just" a bib gourmand. It was a wonderful restaurant even then, which really punched above its weight, so I'm pleased to hear they're still going strong.

No idea about bars, but I could recommend Central Kavehaz for casual dining/breakfast/lunch etc. I've been many times and found it quite reliable and it's a really nice room to spend a couple of hours in the afternoon... The food isn't exceptional but choose from the section called "Zonaetelek" which are kind of slightly sanitised versions of traditional regional dishes but good all the same. For cakes & coffee try Ruszwurm Cafe on the Buda Hill near the Matyas Church - it's absolutely tiny but the cakes are delicious (better than the Gerbaud which is a bit of a tourist trap). Or you could try the very inexpensive Jegbufe at the end of the Vorosmarty utca - it's a bit bizarre like a relic from a different era, very hectic at times and there is no seating, but the cakes & pastries are very good indeed for the price. I recently went to Alabardos restaurant for dinner, which was wonderful - lovely setting in a courtyard (if it's a warm/dry evening) and the food was excellent - some of the best I've had in Budapest. The sommelier recommended some outstanding wines by the glass. It's at the higher end (about £50 per person for three courses inc wine) but well worth it. Definitely avoid the Gundel at all costs - the food is utterly appalling and incredibly expensive - one of the worst dining experiences of my life. Next on my list to visit were Nancsi Neni and Bock Bisztro which was full up last time I tried to get a table. I've heard good things about both of those...

This probably relates more to the first series of Kitchen Nightmares, but I noticed an interesting comment tucked away on p.17 of tonight's London Evening Standard: It's official then - it's not in any way a set-up. Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmares presents an "accurate picture" of the restaurants featured on the programme. No mention made of the incongruous and wholly inappropriate torso exposure though - maybe another case is in the pipeline...

Oh yes, Chapoutier has an excellent tasting room in Tain. I bought a '93 Hermitage there - as it was the only one in my price bracket! I asked the man there if 93 was a bad year and he said "no, no - it was a difficult year though". If you get down that way though, I could recommend Michel Chabran in Pont de l'Isere. It's not the most charming town and the hotel rooms were a bit small and in need of redecoration when I went (about 6 or 7 years ago), but the welcome was very warm and friendly and the restaurant was really excellent. He lost his second star a few years back now, so I can't vouch for the cooking these days but back then it was pretty good - I remember having the "assiette de chocolat Valrhona", which was very memorable.