Michelin 2007

[milla]

Le Figaro and F. Simon have released the results for the 2007 guide. Hmmm, this is the earliest i have heard the results released so i wonder if it is speculation.

In short, 3 stars to Astrance, Pre Catalan, Helene Darroze and Lameloise, le Meurice and Pic.

Taillevent and Le Cinq are demoted to 2 stars.

If true, it is the elevation of the female haute cuisine chef in France.

[John Talbott]

Le Figaro and F. Simon have released the results for the 2007 guide.  Hmmm, this is the earliest i have heard the results released so i wonder if it is speculation.

In short, 3 stars to Astrance, Pre Catalan, Helene Darroze and Lameloise, le Meurice and Pic.

Taillevent and Le Cinq are demoted to 2 stars.

If true, it is the elevation of the female haute cuisine chef in France.

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I was just composing the following for the Digest:

"The big news Thursday was revealed by Adrian Moore in his blog who wrote that “Le Cinq and Taillevent go from three to two, and Astrance, Le Meurice, Pre Catelan and Helene Darroze get three stars, with Constant's Les Fables de la Fontaine getting one star. Pic looks like the first woman chef to get three stars after Darroze..” He also noted that as already announced, Marc Meneau is in bankruptcy. Francois Simon in Figaro went farther afield outside Paris, stating in his article “The waltz of the stars” that Nicholas Le Bec in Lyon, also went to two stars, Marc Veyrat and Marc Westermann gave up their stars, the latter to start over again, and Jacques Lameloise in Chagny recovered his three stars."

It's not clear how much is true or deduction or partial leakage from the December decisions.

[docsconz]

Le Figaro and F. Simon have released the results for the 2007 guide.  Hmmm, this is the earliest i have heard the results released so i wonder if it is speculation.

In short, 3 stars to Astrance, Pre Catalan, Helene Darroze and Lameloise, le Meurice and Pic.

Taillevent and Le Cinq are demoted to 2 stars.

If true, it is the elevation of the female haute cuisine chef in France.

←

I was just composing the following for the Digest:

"The big news Thursday was revealed by Adrian Moore in his blog who wrote that “Le Cinq and Taillevent go from three to two, and Astrance, Le Meurice, Pre Catelan and Helene Darroze get three stars, with Constant's Les Fables de la Fontaine getting one star. Pic looks like the first woman chef to get three stars after Darroze..” He also noted that as already announced, Marc Meneau is in bankruptcy. Francois Simon in Figaro went farther afield outside Paris, stating in his article “The waltz of the stars” that Nicholas Le Bec in Lyon, also went to two stars, Marc Veyrat and Marc Westermann gave up their stars, the latter to start over again, and Jacques Lameloise in Chagny recovered his three stars."

It's not clear how much is true or deduction or partial leakage from the December decisions.

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My suspicion would be that they have the real info. If they were taking educated guesses that proved incorrect, that could be a major embarrassment to their reputations. Though I could certainly be wrong I doubt that they would take that chance without some pretty solid information. I would think that Simon, at least, would have those kinds of contacts. I have no idea as to whether Moore might have the same level of contacts.

[milla]

Moore has that kind of contacts.

Plus he posted the URL for Le Figaro on the post on his blog.

Edited January 18, 2007 by milla (log)

[docsconz]

Moore has that kind of contacts.

Plus he posted the URL for Le Figaro on the post on his blog.

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That doesn't surprise me. I am just not as familiar with Moore as I am with Simon.

[Jon Tseng]

Interesting.

1) NB first women chef to get *** was, of course, Eugenie Brazier wayback. Scratching my head trying to think of others. Does Elena Arzak count?

2) Just thinking about Paris four up, two down. Does that bring the total # Paris ***s to TWELVE or thereabouts? Oh how the days of the rigid pentarchy of Taillevent/Ambroisie/Arpege/Lucas Carton/Rue Poincare seem such a long time away. I really worry Paris ***s getting a bit commoditised now. Sort of devalues it when they're two-a-penny no?

Hmmm.

J

[milla]

what about chez la mere blanc, georges blanc's mom or grandmother? did they not have *** way back? not in France but there is, of course, Carme Ruscadella in Sant Pau.

[BigboyDan]

Credibility? 2 stars for Le Cinq and Taillevent is laughable; and while I love eating at Pic, hmmm... 3?

[milla]

let's wait until March. Simon has been wrong before.

[DutchMuse]

I have it on good authority that Le V and Taillevant were demoted from *** to **.

[vmilor]

Credibility? 2 stars for Le Cinq and Taillevent is laughable; and while I love eating at Pic, hmmm... 3?

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I certainly agree with Le Cinq. Two stars is too much. Should be one at best--but there are many better one stars.

Taillevent, 2 stars, is about right.

Darroze, if correct, and if it is driven by gender, is an act of disrespect to other women chefs. They should not get a star in the first place.

All the new 3 stars (Le Pre Catelan, l'Astrance and Le Meurice) have been the upper end 2 stars where, at least in the last 2 years, one could have dined better than the second rate category of the 3 stars. They have forgotten Les Ambassadeurs though.

Given star inflation, I think Michelin has to create a new category of 4 star!

[ameiden]

Does Elena Arzak count?

J

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There might be more female *** chefs than one would think. As well as Eugénie Brazier and Elena Arzak one should also remember Annie Féolde, the French chef of the Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence.

Edited January 22, 2007 by ameiden (log)

[John Talbott]

Given star inflation, I think Michelin has to create a new category of 4 star!

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Well, Francois Simon says in another article on the subject entitled “Tempest in a glass of water,” that 2007 is a warm-up for 2008 when they're going to get tougher. The rest of the piece really just tells of the reactions of the whinners and losers.

[vmilor]

Given star inflation, I think Michelin has to create a new category of 4 star!

←

Well, Francois Simon says in another article on the subject entitled “Tempest in a glass of water,” that 2007 is a warm-up for 2008 when they're going to get tougher. The rest of the piece really just tells of the reactions of the whinners and losers.

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Thanks John for bringing this to the public's attention.

So Grand Vefour is also losing their third star. A very wise decision.

The other message is also exemplary. Great restaurants should limit the number of couverts. L'Astrance limits it to 25, even though they can make 50. Michelin is rewarding this attitude. One should draw the line between glorified brasseries and Haute cuisine. This is why Taillevent is losing. Soliveres may be as good as a chef as Barbot but the former is victimized by the profit maximization strategy of the boss, whereas the latter (Barbot is actually one of the ownners) is rewarded for its very French (always at odds with Anglo-Saxon capitalism) view of quality before other considerations. Bravo! Even if, IMHO, Barbot is still delivering **+ and not quite 3, there is nothing wrong giving him 3. Hope he will live up to that. I think he will.

[winemike]

Given star inflation, I think Michelin has to create a new category of 4 star!

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Well, Francois Simon says in another article on the subject entitled “Tempest in a glass of water,” that 2007 is a warm-up for 2008 when they're going to get tougher. The rest of the piece really just tells of the reactions of the whinners and losers.

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I've heard, I don't know how many years, that *next* year the Michelin was going to get tougher...

It's a long time I simply don't trust this guide anymore (for years). And giving a third start to Helene Darroze is so laughable it immediately clears any leftover doubt... (if ever I wanted to look at it again).

It used to be interesting when I was travelling and wanted to eat out in a place where I knew I'd get "Michelin" stuff. Nowadays, it's not even in the car anymore... I use it as a phonebook from time to time.

[John Talbott]

In Adrian Moore's blog today he confirms much of what he and Francois Simon and others have reported:

New 3*'s Le Meurice, le Pré Catelan, l'Astrance, Lameloise + Pic, the first two in Paris.

New 2*'s Le Clos de Sens, La Villa, Nicolas le Bec, Robuchon (Monte Carlo), Alexandre, Les Cèdre + Les Elysées only the last in Paris.

New 1*'s in Paris Auguste, Les Fables de la Fontaine, Dominique Bouchet, Les Muses + Bath’s.

He also reports that Le Relais d'Auteuil "was one of seven establishments to be demoted from two to one star" and Le Cinq + Taillevent lost a star each.

Alan Katz in the Bloomberg News confirmed the story; presumably the dailies will carry it soon. And an IHT story today with an AP credit confimed the Pic + Taillevent decisions.

The hardcover Michelin Red Guide will be in bookstores at the end of March.

[Hectorp]

Sorry for these rambling thoughts, but taking 3 stars from Taillevent puts a furrow in my brows...I'm perplexed...perhaps the best reaction is like some of the others here have done...viz, dismiss Michelin. In some way it almost seems like saying that Thomas Jefferson really wasn't that great of a genius because...well, now we have Velcro, Post-it Notes, iPods and Plasma Screen Television. In other words, we've redefined genius and you no longer count.

Has Taillevent actually slipped in quality? or does 3 starts now mean something different?

They may be just a tad old fashioned, but what's not 3 stars about Taillevent? Don't they almost define the category? The care that Mr Vrinat takes with his guests makes people feel like they're being invited into some private heaven. The food is presented in a perfect way and the total experience is gemlike and fascinating. What do you want, mermaids?

I also read the Toddhunter book...so I'm aware of the issues...but, if the whole Taillevent enterprise is dedicated to the honorable and high purpose of creating a perfect golden experience for their diners...if that doesn't merit 3 stars...then I feel completely lost.

More later...

[42390]

There is a press release on Michelin's website today. You can download a pdf document that has all the new ratings. It is not on www.viamichelin.com but is located at www.michelin.fr

[grace3]

I'm not seeing Helene Darroze for a third star..is that out now? Personally, I didn't care for her when a one star!..but who am I..I have never returned..do not plan to do so either!

Taillevent a different story. My experience a couple weeks ago was perfection in every way. The food was superb. The whole experience was well worth the $226 US! I already have my reservation for October!!

I don't think I am alone in this thinking. M. Vrinat is charming.

I downgrade Michelin this year!

[42390]

And no 3 stars for Helene Darroze according to the press release

[42390]

2 great places in Alsace slammed too, Auberge du Cheval Blanc in Lembach cut from two to one, Le Cerf in Marlenhaim cut two to one also. I downgrade Michelin as well!

[John Talbott]

By now, everyone is piling on: Le Monde, Les Echos, l'Express, the NouvelObs, any TV station you fancy, etc. The AFP and then AP stories seem to have driven the train, the photos are all of Anne-Sophie Pic and the hook seems to be her unique (as a woman) three stars.

[John Talbott]

There is a press release on Michelin's website today. You can download a pdf document that has all the new ratings. It is not on www.viamichelin.com but is located at www.michelin.fr

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One thing I missed was that the Michelin will be available March 28th in English in a hundred countries including France.

Many thanks to 42390 for finding the complete Press Release which is 65 pages long and can be downloaded by clicking on "Télécharger le dossier de presse complet" at the bottom of the summary page.

[icecreamparty]

anybody know the name of the new one star in and around dijon

first year

one star

thanks

[John Talbott]

anybody know the name of the new one star in and around dijon

first year

one star

thanks

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If I'm reading the chart correctly it's the Clos du Roy in Chenove.