Three wines

[Florida Jim]

2005 Amesguren, Getariako Txakolina Ameztoi:

Hondarrabi zuri is the grape, the Basque region of Spain its origin, 11% alcohol and a moderate spritz which is refreshing in the mouth. If there is a better aperitif wine, I can’t think of it. This is bright, citrus-flavored juice with a lacy texture, a cleansing acidity and a lightweight delivery that makes my mouth water. Imported by de Maison Selections and about $14; I’ll buy more.

1999 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Murto Vineyard:

There is a stemmy, minty tone on the nose and, to some degree on the palate, and I can’t quite decide if it detracts or accents the rich, broad red and black fruit scents and flavors; texture of satin, full in the mouth but not heavy, 13.7% alcohol, balanced and persistent. If I have to guess (and I do, as I have several more bottles), this needs to be left alone for a year or two. About $30, on release; I’m ambivalent about repurchase.

2005 Dom. de la Voûtes Crozes (Chanrion), Cote-de-Brouilly:

I want to drink this wine; the idea of tasting this wine seems forced; lots of “stuff” here – black fruit, minerality, complexity, harmony, face powder aromatics; echoes of the same on the palate with a hidden structure, excellent breadth and balance, 13% alcohol; a substantial and layered finish. Not especially acidic but lots of bright flavors.

No “gobs” of anything; no hedonism; no hypothetical combination of X and Y; no blockbuster or tour de force. Any and all adjectives are diminished by the drinking – this wine appeals to me on a visceral level; let me drink deeply and not have to think about description. Oh yeah, this is good!

Imported by Kermit Lynch and about $14; I bought some and will buy a lot more.

Best, Jim