Fantastic find in Rochefort - Corderie Royale

[RandyB]

I was finishing the Toussaint vacation week on the île de Ré. (Oyster speciales No. 2 for 5 euros/dozen, but that's another story.) I wanted to spend a day in Fouras birding in the marais. Friends suggested I stay in Rochefort at the hotel de la Corderie Royale (royal ships`ropemaking center). This was a 3-star hotel where very pleasant doubles cost 75 euros and singles cost 58 euros. They didn`t mention the restaurant in the hotel, but that's where I ate.

Omigod, it was great. Started with an amuse bouche which was a shot glass of warm green pepper soup with a froth of red pepper. Entrée was Royale de foie gras en nage de châtaignes, à la fève de Tonka. Rich soup/sauce with fois gras, puréed little chestnuts, beans of Tonka (never heard of those).

Main course was Moelleux de cabillaud en deux façons, l'une en brandade, l'autre rôtie, courgette au thym. This is cod two ways, pureed with potatoes and cooked in a small cake, and roasted, along with tiny courgettes flavored with thyme.

Next course was a plate of cheese or the local specialty, a jonchée. Imagine the roller used in making suchi rolls in a Japanese restaurant, but instead of thin bamboo it`s made of marsh reeds. That is rolled to hold together a sheep or goat cheese with the texture of firm youghurt, flavored with almond & laurel, and opened onto a plate. They were out of this, so I opted for a lovely, simple green salad that was very lightly dressed.

Dessert was Passion aux deux chocolats and sorbet yaourt, which should be self-explanatory except it was more like four chocolats, and the inside of a passionfruit.

If I knew how to include photos, I`d post the entrée, main dish, and dessert. They were all beautiful, as well as superbly prepared. There were other choices for each course, which I did not describe.

Finally, the incredible bottom line: 36 euros. Local wines they suggested were 5 euros by the glass. There were bottles, too, of course. And the service was delightful.

This was one of the most enjoyable meals I`ve had in France in years.