Calamares en su tinta

[Brian Murdock]

Last night I was at a classic traditional Spanish restaurant in Madrid called Paulino. I ordered one of my favorite dishes in all of Spanish cuisine: calamares en su tinta, or squid in its ink. It had been a long time since I had last ordered it, but I was glad I did because the experience was as enjoyable as ever. Calamares in su tinta (or sometimes the smaller "chipirones en su tinta") is one of those dishes that are hard to get people to try, but if they only knew what they were missing. I was once at a Spanish restaurant in Connecticut where the waiter told me that he sometimes told enquiring people that the squid was served in a bean sauce because otherwise they would never order it. Ethics aside, it was a funny way of getting people to try it. So, I highly recommend this dish to anyone who hasn't tried it and is looking for something new. Are there any other calamares en su tinta fans out there?

[docsconz]

I have only had a Spanish canned version which was ok. I would very much like to try a version made with fresh squid. Funny thing is that not five minutes before I picked up my computer just now I was perusing Jose Andres' Tapas book and came across his recipe for the very same dish. I was thinking that would be fun to make if I could find good uncleaned fresh squid. Unfortunately, there is the rub for me. I can get reasonable cleaned squid in the supermarket, but not the complete package.

[butterfly]

Ha, that's funny that some people might be put off a little ink (but then think nothing of making gravy out of blood and drippings). Chipirones en su tinta one of the weekly staples at my son's elementary school lunch program here in Madrid....

I've never made them myself, but I do know that, here in Spain, tinta de calamar (squid ink) is readily available in little packets. It's handy for adding to rice or other dishes.

[Brian Murdock]

Docsconz, you most definitely have to try the real thing, and, as Butterfly added, with a small amount of white rice, which is the way it normally is served. The other night it didn't come with any, which I missed; but oh well, the calamares were great all the same. The ink sauce was prepared with sauteed onions which gave it a nice touch of sweetness to it.

[johnnyd]

I lived in the Algarve as a teenager where my dad had retired and built a small house.

We used to go to a locals' place in Vale do Bispo where I had my first "Lulas em su tinto", served with potatos and slightly stew-like. It was a gastronomic revelation - the most delicious thing ever. We went there once a week just to have it.

Here in Maine, we are currently getting fresh squid every day, uncleaned, for $3.99/lb. I've been trying, with limited success, to recreate my childhood comfort dish. The difficulty is securing the ink from the innards I pull out of the beast and I never seem to get enough of it. True, most of it spurts randomly in my sink and on my clothes. The other day someone suggested that you don't need that much anyway, so I will persevere. I obviously need a lesson or at least look at Snr. Andres recipe.

I've heard others say the squid packets aren't any good and are loaded with salt. Squid Ink, apparently, is extremely perishable - shelf-life of a couple hours, some say.

July in the Algarve sees the squid fishermen float along the coast at night, lanterns on either side of their small boats to attract their prey. You can hear them talking to one another from the clifftops as they drift by like a little floating city.

[Brian Murdock]

Johnnyd, the words "gastronomic revelation" are a perfect way to describe the experience. My sentiments exactly. Interesting about the short shelf-life. I didn't know that.

[butterfly]

The difficulty is securing the ink from the innards I pull out of the beast and I never seem to get enough of it.  True, most of it spurts randomly in my sink and on my clothes.  The other day someone suggested that you don't need that much anyway, so I will persevere.  I obviously need a lesson or at least look at Snr. Andres recipe.

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I don't know how they do it, but the fish guys here can just pull out the little ink sack intact and stick it in a little bag for you. They seem to grab on to the tentacles and give them a yank away from the head so that all of the innards come out in one go. Then they separate out the sack without breaking it. So it can be done, but it probably takes a lot of practice....

[johnnyd]

Practice indeed, and these guys catch a lot of squid so their technique is spot-on, I bet.

My problem, which should be easy to remedy, is to figure out what, among all the sacs and viscera is the ink-sac itself. I think it's the long, silvery pouch but I'm not sure.

Frankly, I'm just getting a technique down for gutting and cleaning the slimy things, let alone harvesting ink - but that's the next goal

[mrbigjas]

this right here is a virtual dissection of a squid, including a closeup of how to remove the ink sac.

[butterfly]

this right here is a virtual dissection of a squid, including a closeup of how to remove the ink sac.

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Okay, I'll admit it... now even I feel a bit squeamish. Too much visual detail!

[johnnyd]

Hmm, I guess I was right!

  The long, silvery dark tube on the bottom of the liver is the ink sac. Be careful not to break it open. Squid ink stains clothing and skin.

Okay, now it's time to try it. A fresh load comes in next week!

[Pelayin]

I have only had a Spanish canned version which was ok. I would very much like to try a version made with fresh squid. Funny thing is that not five minutes before I picked up my computer just now I was perusing Jose Andres' Tapas book and came across his recipe for the very same dish. I was thinking that would be fun to make if I could find good uncleaned fresh squid. Unfortunately, there is the rub for me. I can get reasonable cleaned squid in the supermarket, but not the complete package.

←

Hi,

tienda.com has squid ink available:

http://www.tienda.com/food/pop/se-18-2.html

unfortunately, I think it will not be loligo vulgaris (chipirón, calamar) but sepia officinalis (sepia) ink, but it might help.

You mention that you have a recipe by José Andrés but, in case you want another, just ask.

P.

[docsconz]

I have only had a Spanish canned version which was ok. I would very much like to try a version made with fresh squid. Funny thing is that not five minutes before I picked up my computer just now I was perusing Jose Andres' Tapas book and came across his recipe for the very same dish. I was thinking that would be fun to make if I could find good uncleaned fresh squid. Unfortunately, there is the rub for me. I can get reasonable cleaned squid in the supermarket, but not the complete package.

←

Hi,

tienda.com has squid ink available:

http://www.tienda.com/food/pop/se-18-2.html

unfortunately, I think it will not be loligo vulgaris (chipirón, calamar) but sepia officinalis (sepia) ink, but it might help.

You mention that you have a recipe by José Andrés but, in case you want another, just ask.

P.

←

Thanks! I may have to try that. I have ordered from tienda before. They aren't bad.

[Andy Fenn]

The chef I met at Mugaritz had done a stage at Arzak a couple of months before, and said his favourite dish there was the chipirones in their ink. Not on the menu, but the locals can't get enough of it. We ordered a tiny portion to go with our fish courses. Absolutely stunning. Quite sweet, which apparently comes from vegetable stock simmered for days.

I had some every day for the rest of the trip, and every pintxos bar did a decent version. Definitely a convert. Ugly bugger of a dish though...

[docsconz]

The chef I met at Mugaritz had done a stage at Arzak a couple of months before, and said his favourite dish there was the chipirones in their ink. Not on the menu, but the locals can't get enough of it. We ordered a tiny portion to go with our fish courses. Absolutely stunning. Quite sweet, which apparently comes from vegetable stock simmered for days.

I had some every day for the rest of the trip, and every pintxos bar did a decent version. Definitely a convert. Ugly bugger of a dish though...

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Your mention of Arzak reminded me that I did indeed have calamares and their ink there. I culled this photo

from my report of my lunch there two years ago. I could go for some more of that right now!

[butterfly]

Your mention of Arzak reminded me that I did indeed have calamares and their ink there. I culled this photo

Now that's not an ugly version! I had a nice version recently at the marisquería on Narvaez near the Retiro (not the famous Rafa, but the more modest one that specializes in Percebes (near the Ibiza metro stop)--can anyone help me out with the name? I always forget to write it down. They also have good seafood empanadas.).

Edited September 10, 2006 by butterfly (log)

[Andy Fenn]

Trust me, mine were ugly. You can just see one at the top left of this photo, caked in thick black sauce. I don't like vegemite, but these were a winner:

[johnnyd]

Uhh, so anyway, I tried in vain to produce lulas com sua tinto this weekend and bought larger than usual fresh squid for the dish. I located the ink sacs without trouble but they were barely 3cm long. I carefully squeezed out the ink and had half a thimble-full, not nearly enough for the broth I planned for my squid.

I suppose I have to stop being cheap and buy about four pounds of them next time...

[milla]

Uhh, so anyway, I tried in vain to produce lulas com sua tinto this weekend and bought larger than usual fresh squid for the dish.  I located the ink sacs without trouble but they were barely 3cm long.  I carefully squeezed out the ink and had half a thimble-full, not nearly enough for the broth I planned for my squid.

I suppose I have to stop being cheap and buy about four pounds of them next time...

←

don't squeeze them out. its like milking a chicken.

puree them with a little bit of water and then add to the sauce. a little sac never hurt anyone, put you can always strain them out if squeamish.

[johnnyd]

Uhh, so anyway, I tried in vain to produce lulas com sua tinto this weekend and bought larger than usual fresh squid for the dish.  I located the ink sacs without trouble but they were barely 3cm long.  I carefully squeezed out the ink and had half a thimble-full, not nearly enough for the broth I planned for my squid.

I suppose I have to stop being cheap and buy about four pounds of them next time...

←

don't squeeze them out. its like milking a chicken.

puree them with a little bit of water and then add to the sauce. a little sac never hurt anyone, put you can always strain them out if squeamish.

←

Hmmm... so If I got four sacs and mixed them really well with water I could have a half a cup of black stuff that would turn a cup of clear veg/chix stock grey. That's a start.

[docsconz]

Uhh, so anyway, I tried in vain to produce lulas com sua tinto this weekend and bought larger than usual fresh squid for the dish.  I located the ink sacs without trouble but they were barely 3cm long.  I carefully squeezed out the ink and had half a thimble-full, not nearly enough for the broth I planned for my squid.

I suppose I have to stop being cheap and buy about four pounds of them next time...

←

don't squeeze them out. its like milking a chicken.

puree them with a little bit of water and then add to the sauce. a little sac never hurt anyone, put you can always strain them out if squeamish.

←

I love that analogy! Milla, can you please be more specific as to what you would do to obtain a reasonable amount of ink for a sauce for this dish? Thanks in advance.

[Zoticus]

I've never made them myself, but I do know that, here in Spain, tinta de calamar (squid ink) is readily available in little packets. It's handy for adding to rice or other dishes.

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The little sachets contain sepia, or cuttlefish, ink, not squid ink. I've never made direct comparison, but I suspect that the effect on the sauce either way is minimal.

[milla]

Uhh, so anyway, I tried in vain to produce lulas com sua tinto this weekend and bought larger than usual fresh squid for the dish.  I located the ink sacs without trouble but they were barely 3cm long.  I carefully squeezed out the ink and had half a thimble-full, not nearly enough for the broth I planned for my squid.

I suppose I have to stop being cheap and buy about four pounds of them next time...

←

don't squeeze them out. its like milking a chicken.

puree them with a little bit of water and then add to the sauce. a little sac never hurt anyone, put you can always strain them out if squeamish.

←

Hmmm... so If I got four sacs and mixed them really well with water I could have a half a cup of black stuff that would turn a cup of clear veg/chix stock grey. That's a start.

←

if you want to make it from only 4 small squid and its sacs you would be correct. but that is alot of work for only half a portion for one person.

doc, if you make the tinta dish with 2 pounds of squid, a reasonable amount, perhaps 20 med. sized squid, you would take the sacs whole from them and mix them in 1/4 cup of water, at most. if one makes the correct amount of puree of the sauce, this mix will be more than enough to color, and flavor, the sauce. hey, it takes practice.

i would not make it with a veg or chix stock either. not traditional.

Edited September 12, 2006 by milla (log)

[johnnyd]

i would not make it with a veg or chix stock either. not traditional.

Thank You, Milla. It's not in any of the recipes I've unearthed either. I prefer to honour and respect techniques in place for many years so I'll stick to your advice.

[Kaitenzushi]

Docsconz, you most definitely have to try the real thing, and, as Butterfly added, with a small amount of white rice, which is the way it normally is served.  The other night it didn't come with any, which I missed; but oh well, the calamares were great all the same.  The ink sauce was prepared with sauteed onions which gave it a nice touch of sweetness to it.

←

When calamares en su tinta are served with white rice, the dish sounds very similar to the Italian dish risotto nero, although I think that risotto nero is normally made with cuttlefish (and their ink) rather than squid.

Edited November 14, 2006 by Kaitenzushi (log)