Wines from the road

[Florida Jim]

2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allèes:

In its youth, a wine of acidic cut and deep fruit; today, it has smoothed out and is fleshy, mouth-filling, and bright and certainly shows its breed. I can’t think of many white Burgundies I enjoy more and this was only $7 on sale; a price I’d surely pay again.

2002 Desvignes, Morgon Côte de Py:

Not as recognizable as a Morgon but beautifully elegant, lightweight and clean with focused fruit and nuance. Almost ethereal. Price unknown.

2002 Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie:

It is impossible to have too much of this wine; clearly of its place, solidly structured, brimming with fresh fruit and nicely accented with earth and spice tones. Great today and surely at least as good tomorrow. $15 and worth it anytime.

2000 Kreydenweiss, Riesling Clos Rebbeg:

Showing so much more than the last bottle it is hard for me to believe it’s the same wine; deep, rich, honeyed-fruit scents; powerful flavors in the mouth, good cut and an endless finish. Fabulous texture. Really something special; $25 on release and I’d love to find some at that price.

1998 Salomon, Grüner Veltliner Kögl Reserve:

Time to drink-up; some oxidative notes on the nose and palate but still full flavored and classically proportioned Grüner. $8 on sale; worth it but this wine will head south shortly so I would not buy it again.

2002 Chevillon, Bourgogne:

Will never be confused with his premier cru wines but is head and shoulders better than most other Bourgogne’s; full, black fruit smells and flavors with focus. Good stuff; price unknown.

2000 Hamacher, Pinot Noir:

Crackling, crisp, tongue-dancing wine with all sorts of red fruit nuance, good depth and a clean elegance that this producer seems to have cornered the market on. $40 on release; I’d pay that again.

2000 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Murto Vnyd.:

Calmer wine than the preceding; texturally smooth, round and balanced; an understated Oregon pinot but a good one. $35 on release; I’d pay that again.

Best, Jim