Champlain Charest Sells Cellar

[Lesley C]

Champlain Charest, owner of Bistro Champlain in Sainte-Marguerite-de-Lac-Masson Quebec, is selling off most of his prize-winning cellar to three companies: the SAQ (societé des Alcohols du Quebec), Caisse de dépot, and the Montreal Casino. Charest owns Canada’s only Wine Spectator Grand Award-winning cellar. Of the 32 000 bottles in his collection, he plans on keeping a mere 6000 for his restaurant. Rarities include over 700 bottles of Yquem from 1928 to present, 600 bottles of Pétrus from 1945-1998, and 575 bottles of Romanée-Conti (including many mathusalems worth a cool 5 million) and much, much more. This is sad news indeed. Touring Mr. Charest’s vast cellar after dinner at his bistro was a rare treat. His collection (reputed to be worth 10 million) is stupendous. When I was visiting Chateau Beaucastel recently, they told me of all their clients, the only mathusalems of Chateauneuf-du-Pape they produced were made for Champlain Charest. Unfortunately the restaurant’s website seems to be down at present.

[Fat Guy]

I was there just over a month ago and interviewed Charest -- the second time I've interviewed him, actually. There was clearly something going on, though I couldn't put my finger on it. It was a strong enough feeling that I decided to omit the place from the article I wrote about the region, though. I was feeling a little guilty about jumping to conclusions, but now it's all clear.

[Lesley C]

The article in today's La Presse states Charest's failing health -- specifically his eyesight -- as the primary reason behind the sale.

[Fat Guy]

That's a shame. He seems to be a good man.

[porkpa]

I wonder if the death this past year of perhaps the greatest of all French Canadian artists, Jean Paul Riopelle had anything to do with this decision. Charest was a lifelong friend of Riopelle's, who was also rumored to have been his partner in Bistro a Champlain.

The restaurant has numerous museum quality works by Riopelle, or at least it did both times I was there. One of those times Riopelle himself was in residence. Charest supposedly owns one of, if not the greatest collection of works by his friend. My understanding is that Bistro a Champlain and wine collecting were only a side venture to Charest. I was told that in his other life he is a world renowned surgeon.

Porkpa