The foodlover's guide to Amsterdam

[Chufi]

marvellous, Melissa! thanks so much for posting that!

I always look at the building when I pass it, because I love those shiny golden letters on the facade. Never been inside though.. maybe I should one day!

Thanks!

[brooklyncook]

Excellent thread! I will be visiting with a friend of mine from the 23rd to the 27th (sandwiched -- no pun intended -- between stops in London) and was curious what kind of food I could get my hands on. The only thing I'd seen so far was an article on A Hamburger Today about the Febo burgers.

We'll be staying right by the Vondelpark; I was already really looking forward to the trip, but all these photos have increased the excitement TREMENDOUSLY. Anything else folks have to contribute, please, lay it on me.

[Chufi]

Excellent thread!  I will be visiting with a friend of mine from the 23rd to the 27th (sandwiched -- no pun intended -- between stops in London) and was curious what kind of food I could get my hands on.  The only thing I'd seen so far was an article on A Hamburger Today about the Febo burgers.

We'll be staying right by the Vondelpark; I was already really looking forward to the trip, but all these photos have increased the excitement TREMENDOUSLY.  Anything else folks have to contribute, please, lay it on me.

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brooklyncook, what type of food/drink are you interested in, maybe I could give you some more specific advice! Also, see the other Amsterdam threads that albiston linked to for inspiration!

[Chufi]

Another favorite of mine (I know I'm saying that a lot, but that's what I want to show you, my favorite places ) is Cafe Welling.

This place is about as far away from young, hip & trendy as you can imagine. It is very much a neighborhood bar, with many regulars visiting, who look like they actually live there (I think some of them actually do..).

It's tiny, there's no music, there are always some people hanging about who may have had 1 or 2 glasses of jenever too many. But it's an extremely friendly place and everybody seems to feel at home here. It's literally around the corner from the Concertgebouw (Concerthall), and when the concert of the evening finishes, the bar fills up very quickly with musiclovers and musicians.

We are in Amsterdam Zuid, the south part of the city, traditionally the fanciest and richest neighborhood. Writers, artists, the old and the new rich, the concert-goers, the students, the lonely old ladies, the grumpy old men come together in this bar. On Saturday a group of people comes in to do the weekly puzzle from the newspaper.

In the summer they have a nice terrace outside. In the winter, just sit on one of the corner sofa's, the black cat on your lap, and watch the other customers get into heated discussions. When you're alone, it won't be long before someone is talking to you. The conversation may sometimes be far from lucid, and you might not remember it in the morning, but you'll walk away with the warm feeling of having spent the evening in the livingroom of old friends you had forgotten you had.

the glasses of korenwijn (a type of jenever) are poured so full, that you have to go over to the bar and take a sip, before you can pick them up.

Cafe Welling

J.W. Brouwersstraat 32 (just behind the Concertgebouw)

open from 4 pm, weekend from 3 pm

[brooklyncook]

Excellent thread!  I will be visiting with a friend of mine from the 23rd to the 27th (sandwiched -- no pun intended -- between stops in London) and was curious what kind of food I could get my hands on.  The only thing I'd seen so far was an article on A Hamburger Today about the Febo burgers.

We'll be staying right by the Vondelpark; I was already really looking forward to the trip, but all these photos have increased the excitement TREMENDOUSLY.  Anything else folks have to contribute, please, lay it on me.

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brooklyncook, what type of food/drink are you interested in, maybe I could give you some more specific advice! Also, see the other Amsterdam threads that albiston linked to for inspiration!

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It'll sound elitist, but I'm fond of finding the places that aren't overrun by tourists. It's like when folks visit me in NYC -- the last place I'd take them is Times Square.

I'm really intrigued by the Febo burgers, mainly because I'm curious what they're like in comparison to U.S. burgers (possibly better, based on the burgers I've had in NYC).

I'm also interested in finding out about good comfort food from the Netherlands...and jenever.

[Chufi]

Excellent thread!  I will be visiting with a friend of mine from the 23rd to the 27th (sandwiched -- no pun intended -- between stops in London) and was curious what kind of food I could get my hands on.  The only thing I'd seen so far was an article on A Hamburger Today about the Febo burgers.

We'll be staying right by the Vondelpark; I was already really looking forward to the trip, but all these photos have increased the excitement TREMENDOUSLY.  Anything else folks have to contribute, please, lay it on me.

←

brooklyncook, what type of food/drink are you interested in, maybe I could give you some more specific advice! Also, see the other Amsterdam threads that albiston linked to for inspiration!

←

It'll sound elitist, but I'm fond of finding the places that aren't overrun by tourists. It's like when folks visit me in NYC -- the last place I'd take them is Times Square.

I'm really intrigued by the Febo burgers, mainly because I'm curious what they're like in comparison to U.S. burgers (possibly better, based on the burgers I've had in NYC).

I'm also interested in finding out about good comfort food from the Netherlands...and jenever.

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It's actually very easy to avoid the touristy places. There are about 2 or 3 streets lined with your usual pizza/thai/indian fastfood places, with the ubiquitous 'tourist menus' written on chalkboards outside - but apart from that, Amsterdam very much caters to it's own people, at least that's how it feels to me.

I'll be away this weekend but I'll try to post about some nice beer & jenever bars early next week. Let me know if you'd like any more info (for instance about certain types of restaurants). I trust you'll be able to find the Febo all by yourself they are all over the city..

Edited March 3, 2006 by Chufi (log)

[Chufi]

In the category 'beyond':

we spent the weekend at Hotel Droste Tubbergen. A lovely little hotel in the eastern part of the Netherlands. Tubbergen is in the province of Overijssel, about 2 hours drive from Amsterdam. For us, this is literally the other side of the country (drive 5 minutes more and you're in Germany). The landscape is beautiful here, little villages, lots of farms, and lots of woods and fields for hiking and biking.

This hotel is really special and quite different from the average Dutch 'provincial' hotel. It's beautifully decorated with lots of attention for detail, in a modern but warm and friendly style (see their website for pictures). Most importantly, the food is really really good.

here's what we had:

- brandade of brill, with a potato/dutch shrimp salad and anchovies sauce

- beignet of sole and shrimp, on braised cucumber

- pan-fried Dutch pike perch, with a caraway flavored carrot puree and almond potatoes

- braised veal cheek and sweetbreads in puff pastry with red wine sauce

- caramel mousse with vanilla ice cream, bailey's sauce, dutch soft amaretti cookies

- dried apricot crumble served with bigarreaux ice cream

3 courses with matching wines for 50 Euro per person.

All their tableware, right up to the waterglasses in the bathrooms, are from iitala. If you want to get some for yourself, there's an iitala shop in the town of Tubbergen nearby.

So, if you're thinking of exploring the Dutch countryside, this hotel is highly recommended!

[Bunniver]

Another favorite of mine (I know I'm saying that a lot, but that's what I want to show you, my favorite places  ) is Cafe Welling.

Thank you for this, Chufi. This is exactly the type of place I want to visit on my trip (which may be postponed now by the way I do contract work so sometimes vacation planning gets a wrench thrown into it).

I will admit publicly to my love of reading hokey mystery novels. Lately I've been on a Jan Willem van de Wetering kick. His characters are always going into places like this and having too much genever. I want to have that experience too!

[Chufi]

This is exactly the type of place I want to visit on my trip (which may be postponed now by the way  I do contract work so sometimes vacation planning gets a wrench thrown into it).

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as long as you don't postpone until September, because that's when I will be in Canada, and I would hate to miss out on meeting you!

I will admit publicly to my love of reading hokey mystery novels. Lately I've been on a Jan Willem van de Wetering kick. His characters are always going into places like this and having too much genever. I want to have that experience too!

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There are many places like that in Amsterdam. Like this one, where you can get really good beer and lots of different types of jenever:

Proeflokaal In De Wildeman

website (in english)

They are one of the very few Amsterdam bars with a separate non-smoking area. We used to live around the corner from this place and I went there all the time.. always different, interesting beers on draught, and very friendly and knowledgeable staff who will help you make your choice.

[Chufi]

I'm also interested in finding out about good comfort food from the Netherlands...and jenever. 

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A good, very non-touristy place for simple Dutch comfortfood is Cafe Loetje (Johannes Vermeerstraat 52, southern part of the city, near Museumplein)

It's a neighborhood place that caters mostly to locals. It is famous for it's steak. Don't expect an American style steak! Dutch steak (biefstuk) is a thick and juicy piece of fillet, fried in butter. At Loetje it comes to the table on a deep plate, lying in a pool of brown butter gravy. Most people order fries and a salad as side dishes, but don't forget to also order some bread. You'll get a couple of slices of soft, white bread, perfect for mopping up the delicious gravy. Oh my mouth is watering just thinking about this steak! They don't ask you how you want it, if you say nothing it will arrive medium rare.

Other things on the menu are items like fried liver with onions, plaice fried in butter, schnitzel, etc. Also a great place to have lunch (try their 'broodje bal', a giant, juicy meatball on soft sqhuishy white bread, with gravy).

Edited March 15, 2006 by Chufi (log)

[Chufi]

Last night I had dinner at Orontes (Albert Cuypstraat 40), a really good Turkish restaurant. Great appetizers (my favorites are the spinach sauteed with garlic and pomegranate juice, and the octopus salad with lemon, dill and pickles). Lovely juicy lambchops from the woodburning grill. Very nice Turkish wines, and excellent, friendly service.

[Bunniver]

A good, very non-touristy place for simple Dutch comfortfood is Cafe Loetje (Johannes Vermeerstraat 52, southern part of the city, near Museumplein)

Neato! I had the steak there on my last trip (and salad, and fries)--oh it was so good, my husband and I are still talking about it 2 years later. Do you ever make that at home Chufi (hint hint, if so, please show us how on the Dutch cooking thread.)

Thanks for evermore good tips (and photos, which are beautifully done--especially those dim bar scenes).

I will make sure NOT to come in September. Will you be in Ottawa, Montreal or Toronto on your trip to Canada?

[brooklyncook]

I'm also interested in finding out about good comfort food from the Netherlands...and jenever. 

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Dutch steak (biefstuk) is a thick and juicy piece of fillet, fried in butter. At Loetje it comes to the table on a deep plate, lying in a pool of brown butter gravy. Most people order fries and a salad as side dishes, but don't forget to also order some bread. You'll get a couple of slices of soft, white bread, perfect for mopping up the delicious gravy.

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THAT'S what I'm talking about!

I'm very excited. I leave for London tomorrow night, and I'll be in Amsterdam on Thursday -- this sounds like a good first meal there.

[Chufi]

I'm going to break my own rule now about not writing about places I haven't been, but this one seems like something you will enjoy brooklyncook:

Moeders

Rozengracht 251, Jordaan, Amsterdam

Telefoon (020) 626 79 57 / Fax (020) 626 79 57

keuken open 17.00-23.00

Website www.moeders.com

Best known for simple Dutch fare: stamppot (potatoes & vegetable mash), braised beef, meatballs & gravy, etc.

If you end up there, I'd love to hear what you think!

[cakewench]

What a nice thread!

I have to agree about De taart van mijn tante. I have been there for the atmosphere (even though it often features children thundering back and forth along those wooden floors), and I love their hot chocolate, but none of their cakes has left me craving more. They did have nice apple pie.

There are some nice places to get baklava in that area, though I don't have the names at the moment. We are in that area quite often on Saturdays!

[Timo]

super thread!

my friend and i decided to go to amsterdam next weekend. me, for the first time!!! i am really excited, even more so after coming across this thread.

it'll be my birthday on sunday and i was wondering if anyone has any birthday-dinner recommendations? i would love something authentically Dutch, and something reasonably nice since it's a special occasion.

if it helps, we're staying in what i think is the 'East' part of town. (sorry - my sense of geography leaves much to be desired) anyway, it is where the Amstel meets the Singelgracht. but we'd be willing to go out of our way for anything really good!

Hartelijk dank!

[Chufi]

super thread!

my friend and i decided to go to amsterdam next weekend. me, for the first time!!! i am really excited, even more so after coming across this thread.

it'll be my birthday on sunday and i was wondering if anyone has any birthday-dinner recommendations? i would love something authentically Dutch, and something reasonably nice since it's a special occasion.

if it helps, we're staying in what i think is the 'East' part of town. (sorry - my sense of geography leaves much to be desired) anyway, it is where the Amstel meets the Singelgracht. but we'd be willing to go out of our way for anything really good!

Hartelijk dank!

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Hi Timo, that's great that you're coming to Amsterdam to celebrate your birthday!

I'm sure you can find lots of ideas for places to eat on this thread and threads that are linked to.

For your birthday dinner: you might like to check out restaurant Greetje. It opened october last year and has gotten some very good reviews. I haven't been there myself though.. The menu features all kinds of old fashioned Dutch dishes, some done with a little French twist. The cuisine is pretty unique in Amsterdam. (You can look at the menu on their website, it's in English)

If you have any other questions, either before or during your stay, be they food related or not, please feel free to contact me!

have fun on your birthday!

[Chufi]

What a nice thread! 

I have to agree about De taart van mijn tante.  I have been there for the atmosphere (even though it often features children thundering back and forth along those wooden floors), and I love their hot chocolate, but none of their cakes has left me craving more.  They did have nice apple pie. 

There are some nice places to get baklava in that area, though I don't have the names at the moment.  We are in that area quite often on Saturdays!

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Hi cakewench, good to see you again!

I would love to hear about some of your favorite places. If we agree on Taart van mijn tante.. what places do you go to when you crave good cake?

[brooklyncook]

Chufi, just wanted to say thanks for the recommendations.

Tried to get into that cafe you mentioned, but it was MOBBED. Absolutely packed. So my friend and I ended up somewhere else...I forget the name but the receipt's back at the apartment; I'll list it later.

Amazing food in Amsterdam. Scalded the hell out of my mouth on hot bitterballen, but it was still tasty.

[Chufi]

Chufi, just wanted to say thanks for the recommendations.

Tried to get into that cafe you mentioned, but it was MOBBED.  Absolutely packed.  So my friend and I ended up somewhere else...I forget the name but the receipt's back at the apartment; I'll list it later.

Amazing food in Amsterdam.  Scalded the hell out of my mouth on hot bitterballen, but it was still tasty. 

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Brooklyncook, I'm glad you had a good time! Please report about the places you went to, and what you ate? I'd love to hear!

[Chufi]

Trattoria YamYam is a little Italian restaurant just outside the city centre. I've been coming here for many years for 1 thing only: their famous pizza YamYam, with ham, mascarpone and trufflesauce. I have ordered other stuff from time to time and it was good, but it's this pizza that I really have to have every couple of months. I've just found out that this summer, they'll also be open for lunch, and I'm already having visions of Vondelpark picnics with a slice of pizza...

They are located on the Frederik Hendrikstraat 88. You can see their menu here (in Dutch and Italian). They serve great pizza from a woodburning oven, fresh pasta, and simple meat and fish dishes.

you can see the oven in the middle of the back wall.

Yesterday we had:

Fennel salami, Pecorino Sardo, and a spinach dish that they serve as contorni, but we had it before our pizza

And the pizza:

They are always very busy, reservations are recommended especially in the weekends.

edited to add:

I forgot about their must-have dessert.. coffee granita with whipped cream.. The granita has a very intense bittersweet coffeeflavor, mellowed by heaps of softly whipped cream

Edited April 2, 2006 by Chufi (log)

[jennahan]

Hi Chufi.

What a well timed thread, as i will be in Amsterdam for Queen's Day (not for that reason, but serendipidously...). You mentioned above that it is a big food day...can you elaborate? What are the big events, and where will they be taking place? What is a definite not-to-miss, and what is a hidden jewel?

Thanks in advance for the advice,

xxJ

[Chufi]

Hi Chufi.

What a well timed thread, as i will be in Amsterdam for Queen's Day (not for that reason, but serendipidously...).  You mentioned above that it is a big food day...can you elaborate?  What are the big events, and where will they be taking place?  What is a definite not-to-miss, and what is a hidden jewel?

Thanks in advance for the advice,

xxJ

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oh, what fun! How long will you be staying?

Please be aware that Queensday this year is not celebrated on the official date (the 30th) because that's a Sunday. So all festivities will take place on Fridaynight (aka as Queensnight) and Saturday 29.

I wouldn't say it's a big food day in the sense that it's a foodfestival. For many people, it's nothing but a beer festival - they will start drinking on Fridayevening and won't stop until somewhere around noon on Saturday. The centre of the city can get really crazy with crowds literally blocking the narrow streets, drinking and singing and dancing.

Many restaurants and bars have a special Queensday set-up, with beertaps outside, barbecues etc.

There are usually several stages set up in the centre, with live performances, music etc.

What I like most about this day is the fact that the whole city becomes one big fleamarket. From midnight on Queensnight, and the whole Queensday, you can set up your stall and sell whatever you like. Old clothes, books, kitchenware, or home made food. Or you can sell jokes, fortunetelling, riddles, performances, anything goes!

The Vondelpark is dedicated to kids: only children are allowed to sell stuff there, and it's pretty cute to see them selling there somewhat burnt brownies and old toys.

When we get a bit closer to the day, I'll try to find out what sort of festivities are planned and PM you. Also, I'll let you know where I'll be with my stall of second hand cookbooks, so you can come visit me if you like!

[jennahan]

When we get a bit closer to the day, I'll try to find out what sort of festivities are planned and PM you. Also, I'll let you know where I'll be with my stall of second hand cookbooks, so you can come visit me if you like!

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[MelissaH]

Any suggestions for somewhere to grab an inexpensive bite of lunch on the way from Centraal Station to the Heineken factory, at the end of May? I'm looking for somewhere that would appeal to university students on a tight budget towards the end of a 10-day trip. Most of the group has adventurous tastebuds, although sandwiches are always good.

I'm disappointed that poffertjes won't be in season any more by then!

MelissaH