Three wines

[Florida Jim]

2004 Marramiero, Trebbiano D’Abruzzo Anima:

With a ripeness level that reminds me of Valentini’s wine (sans oak), this is both refined and powerful with excellent depth of flavor, the beginnings of complexity and mouth-watering acidity. Beautifully balanced, varietally correct and filled with character and nuance, one can almost envision the Adriatic. $14; imported by Vinifera Imports.

‘Killer accompaniment to linguini with white clam sauce.

2003 Rubens, Tempranillo:

Industrial, candied, vintage affected, processed wine-food. Earlier vintages of this have been pleasant, albeit simple, wines that go well with food and taste like the variety. But this is one of the worst examples of what this vintage can be. Not worth the $7.

2001 Pinoso, Laderas de El Sequé:

More earth driven than fruit driven with a dusty texture and some complexity. Probably better last year but good with wild mushroom pizza, picking up some of the musky tones of the mushrooms very nicely. Solid wine for $9.

Best, Jim